covertrussian Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 (edited) Complete Bushing Guide for BL/BP This thread is a one stop shop for all of the bushing part numbers and replacement instructions for the 2005-2009 (BL/BP) Legacy. Front Suspension Lower Control Arm Forward Bushing - Instructions LCA Forward Bushing Part Numbers AVO - S2C08G1GV057T Nolathane - REV028.0004 Powerflex (street) - PFF69-501 SuperPro - SPF3091K Whiteline - W0506 Rearward Bushing - Instructions LCA Rearward Bushing Part Numbers AVO - S1X03E1GV001T SuperPro - SPF2801K SuperPro (Caster +0.5) - SPF5112K SuperPro (Caster +0.5 ALK - Outback Model) - SPF3094K SuperPro (Caster + 20mm ALK) - TRC3095 PowerFlex (Street) - PFF69-505G Siberian Bushing - B00Z9WFALI Whiteline (Caster +0.5) - KCA334 (Adjustable) Whiteline - W53353 Front Anti-Swaybar SuperPro "Standard Size" - SPF3096-21K SuperPro "18mm ID" - SPF3096-18K or SPF3096-19K Whiteline - W0406-20G Steering Rack - TO DO Steering Rack Bushing Part Numbers Avo - S1105M1GVUSAT Energy Suspension - 19.10101g Prothane - 16-701-BL SuperPro - SPF2889BK SuperPro - SPF2889K Whiteline - KSR207 Rear Suspension Trailing Arm (Forward Knuckle) - Instructions Trailing Arm Bushing Part Numbers Nolathane - 46333 SuperPro - SPF3388-70K Whiteline - W63398 Upper Control Arm - Instructions Outward (Knuckle Top) Part Numbers SuperPro - SPF3389K Whiteline - KCA399 (Adjustable) Whiteline - W63397 Inward (Subframe) Part Numbers Nolathane - REV050.0026 SupePro - SPF3390K Whiteline - W63396 Toe Arm - Instructions Outward (Bushing is in Knuckle) Part Numbers SuperPro - SPF3392K Whiteline - W63394 Inward (Subframe: Toe Cam Bolts) Part Numbers Whiteline - W63395 Rear LCA (Forward) - Instructions Rear LCA Part Numbers SuperPro - SPF3391K Whiteline - W63393 Control Arm Kit Whiteline Trailing Arm Kit - KTA124 - Replaces all of the lower arms, but you will still need bushings that reside in the knuckle and upper arms. Rear Subframe Subframe Inserts SuperPro (Upper & Lower, for vehicles with voids in upper and lower bushings) - SPF3007K SuperPro (Lower Only, for vehicles with solid uppers) - SPF3008K Whiteline - KDT902 Drivetrain Rear Differential Void Filling Inserts - Instructions Whiteline (Rear Voids only) - KDT927 Whiteline (Front & Rear Voids, 2008+) - KDT903* (2005-07 have solid bushings for front differential mount, while 2008+ has Rear Diff Forward (Outrigger) Bushings Whiteline - KDT905 Rear Diff Rearward Bushings Whiteline - KDT906 Edited October 29, 2020 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 Great post many thanks. Seriously though, for our aging vehicles, this has to be one of the most important things. Well done. Deserves a sticky for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Amazing write-up. I will be doing all bushing in the next coming weeks. I will definitely be using this for reference to verify I hit 'em all! Thank you! MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 National treasure right here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks everyone for the kind words! There are a few bushings that I haven't done yet, and probably wont if increases engine/driveline vibrations, for those I'll do my best to find another person's instructions and link them here. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Another covertrussian post that will save us again and again. Sticky this! 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty nz Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Massive massive thanks to you for this!! and the time you have spent collating this information to present this guide for me and others. Thanks to you I was able to negative through the replacement of near all of my rear suspension bushings with Superpro. I am new to Subaru, fixing Subaru's and signing upto forums. So, sorry in advance if am not supposed to go on as much as I have done. I was fortunate enough after prying to the car gods not to have to fight with rust. I was able to use a Universal Press and Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set. Which came with its own issues. The main one being not having a 33mm diameter cup for half of the smaller bushings..... doh. But that was an easy fix. It was a great idea putting the jack under the wheel. Then winding it up to get the rear control arm to move down. I split one of my socket heads trying to get that bolt lose. Well you did warn us!, cracked me up when I did it. I did have a bit of trouble lining the bracket and the bolts back up tho. In the end I had to disconnect the rear LCA and the upper control arm outer. So I could maneuver the rear control arm bracket back up and be in line with the holes. The result of disconcerting things made it way more easier to move the arm around. Thus getting the correct aliment and not chewing the thread on the bolts going in on an angle. I encourage any one who has not done a suspension bush upgrade on a vehicle that has 90km+ to do so. Even if you use rubber bushings am sure it will be a nice change. As for my Sedan 3.0R BLE back end characteristics where noticeably improved. Being tighter and holding its form better in turns. As well as when driving over speed bumps. You can feel the resistance against it, and it settles down faster. As for the NVH it seemed to be overall minimal. I found changing the steering bushes and front strut top mounts made more of a difference to the NVH. Thank you again Covertrussian for this well laid out show and tell. Sorry again for the post take over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 (edited) While poking around under the rear today I noticed several bushing in need of replacement. Does anyone have the Whiteline diagram that shows all suspension bushings? Or, like, I could search using the internet research skill I list on my resume: Credit goes to (what's that water mark???) ahh, yes, Underdog. Edited May 19, 2020 by seanyb505 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 LCA Rearward Bushing Part Numbers AVO - S1X03E1GV001T SuperPro - SPF2801K SuperPro (Caster +0.5) - SPF2803K SuperPro (Caster +0.5 ALK - Outback Model) - SPF3094K SuperPro (Caster + 20mm ALK) - TRC3095 PowerFlex (Street) - PFF69-505G Siberian Bushing - B00Z9WFALI Whiteline (Caster +0.5) - KCA334 (Adjustable) Whiteline - W53353 SuperPro - SPF2801K appears to be replaced by SPF5112K https://www.suspension.com/superpro/spf2803k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 SuperPro - SPF2801K appears to be replaced by SPF5112K https://www.suspension.com/superpro/spf2803kI think the discontinued bushing is SPF2803K and superseded to SPF5112K. SPF2801K is still around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Looks like SPF5112K adds caster, while SPF2801K was stock caster. I would go SPF5112K all day personally or the baller TRC3095. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre617 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Amazing information, def sticky needed. MVP of the month for sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 Uh, sorry to be a dope, but which generations is this for, what is a BL/BP Legacy ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 BL/BP is the model names for 2005 to 2009 Legacies, updated the description. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorDaveLGT Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 4th gen or the 05-09 legacy/outbacks (03-09 if outside North America). BL is the chassis designation for sedan and BP is for wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kojak Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Bump for pure gold post. Found while oogling a bushing I missed on my last refresh. Incredible wealth of information here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 (edited) I am doing a few more rear subframe bushings and found out the following regarding a these bushings. The bushings that mount the rear subframe to the body of the car seem to be a little hard to find, and ultimately I went with Powerflex for these and the rear diff rearward bushings. Powerflex will tell you the subframe to body bushings will not fir the BL/BP but they do fit and they are listed on the BL/BP webpage even though its not on the diagram. Use these at your own peril Powerflex Body to Rear Subframe Bushings: PFR69-417 elgin.owens had a few helpful posts regarding this bushing in this application here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-subframe-bushings-254353p2.html I also found after the fact that energy suspension offers polyurethane bushings for this application as well: 19.4102G for black and 19.4102R for red. These are cheaper and if you are averse to the color purple or want to deal with a company from the US (this comes up in a minute, bear with me). I happen to like purple and these are probably the most hidden bushings on the car, so color isnt a big deal. For the Rear Diff Rearward bushings, I got the Powerflex PFR69-416, which is actually listed for the car, but I cannot recommend these bushings at the moment. These bushings, with the inner sleeve installed are about 0.010" too small on the OD. I called Powerflex here in the states and they have to forward this to the parent company in the UK before i get a response. Since all these bushings are cast, I would think that all of these, at least from the last run are the same size. I tried the subframe to body bushing in this hole since subaru designed this bushing with the common 59.50mm housing and that one fit great, and those bushings with the sleeve installed measured 59.65 to 59.80mm Again I am waiting to hear back from Powerflex but I would be pretty upset about this if I wasn't doing this on a spare subframe and had to get the car back together to go to work or drive my kid to daycare. Also, quick tip for rear subframe bushings: I used a modified version of my tried and true method to get bushings out when not using a press. The way that usually works for me is holesaw the center out from both sides, sawzall through the shell, hit the shell out. Most suspension bushings will take about 5 min each this way and use pretty normal tools. Since the subframe bushing is so long and the center sleeve is so large, a holesaw isnt really useful. You can heat up the inside of the sleeve until the rubber starts to sizzle, push the center tube through the now slick rubber, then cut through the shell and hit it out. Edited February 28, 2021 by mra32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEPHCON Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 I realized after a trip to my mechanic,that the (REAR) Left and Right Control Arms replacement with new ones (costing me around $95 ea. on an auto parts online shop, helped to eliminate the very typical squeaky noises on the Legacy's. A huge thank you to my mechanic for pointing out the issue. Those things (bushings) looked bad!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Nice list but it is missing Group N options especially for LCA, rear diff in subframe and the support as well. These are best replacements, hard rubber, OEM quality. https://www.rallispec.com/mou_bush_legacy05.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 I know I have posted this elsewhere in the past but I figured since this is a good location for aftermarket stuff I'd include the OE list here. The subframe bushings are powerflex2005-Legacy GT Comprehensive Bushing List.pdf Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 So, another dumb question ... The various after-market bushings listed here (WhiteLine etc) are FAR more expensive than the OEM ones. Convince me they're worth it ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 Idk I priced most pieces and some oems were more expensive. Oem will be softer and more compliant. It depends on what your goals for the car are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 I don't think it's even close. First one I checked was LCA forward bushing. Whiteline 0506 was about $50. Equivalent OEM part (IIRC 20204AG04B) is about $8 from subarupartsforyou. I guess choices are handling, comfort, longevity. I guess handling is first for me; I'm just not clear how much these after-market components help with that. Hope this isn't considered a thread-jack, but people in this thread (https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-lower-control-arm-bushings-recommendations-and-experiencesi-261456.html) seem to like Mevotech aluminum ones from rockauto, $90 or so: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6506949&cc=1430733&pt=10401&jsn=17 convince me aftermarket suspension parts are better than discounted oem parts? What are you? 12? If you want cheapest parts, this thread isn't for you. Start your own listing all the best deals on knockoff oem parts. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 That time of month ? Just want to know exactly what benefits I can expect from the various after-market options. (And whether the OEM parts are discounted or not is irrelevant). still wrong thread. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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