Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

mra32

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

Everything posted by mra32

  1. I didn't see any PM in my inbox, but I will clarify my request if it helps. No worries if you aren't interested but I want to make sure you understand my offer. If you were to separate these, the shipping would be much much less than $100 for just the springs and spacers (probably about 1/3 of that) and I would be willing to pay more than $100 total to get it all here here. I pay something like $135, You throw out everything else and get all of your space back and you end up with the same money in your pocket. Let me know if this or some version of this works. I understand you not wanting to ship, and perhaps this is a good middle ground for both of us. Again, no worries if not.
  2. Would buy the springs and spacers if you are willing to separate and ship. Name your price.
  3. Just FYI for anyone interested, the doors are the same between the sedan and the wagon, the only difference is the rear door glass. There is more glass at the top rear corner on a wagon.
  4. I attached the parts diagram from Energy suspension with the assembly of the bushings and crossmember circled to clear up any confusion which bushings I am offering for sale
  5. BUMP I will throw in the Whiteline inserts that go in the back differential bushings, KDT927. one leg is broken off the rest of it, but its just an insert and it should still fill the void whether its attached to the rest of it or not. I dont know where the washers are for this, I'll try to find them but mine stayed in without washers for nearly a decade
  6. This may or may not be the right place for this but I removed my exhaust this weekend and the gasket between the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust disintegrated. I know you are supposed to replace gaskets, but I didnt really think about it. I have the 3" flange at that connection and I was using a Vibrant 1458 3" 2 bolt gasket. This is a widely available gasket but not locally when you need to get your car back together. I was able to use a gasket from GM trucks at the catalytic converter connection. It was a 2 bolt gasket a little bit bigger than 3" and its not a perfect fit, but my exhaust is sealed now. It required a little trimming and new holes drilled but it was literally the only way for me to get an exahust gasket - no local stores had any sheets of exhaust gasket material, and nobody stocked the Vibrant gasket. I used a Fel-Pro 61561 for the 3" downpipe 2 bolt flange. Another brand of the same gasket is Walker 31574. This requires some modification, but will get you back on the road if you are in a bind like me. I found some other potential options but nothing that was stocked locally. I attached a picture of the gasket next to the flange
  7. Bump! Weather is getting nicer and this is one of the easier bushings to do to tighten up the driveline!
  8. Selling a set of Rear Diff Front outrigger bushings from an Energy Suspension kit 19.1105G. This kit is only available with both the forward and rearward bushings, in contrast to most aftermarket options. This was the only way for me to get polyurethane rear diff bushings that didnt have an outer sleeve. This would be the Energy Suspension equivalent of a Whiteline KDT905, which I already have installed, hence, no need for this. I have actually been switching some of my Whiteline bushings to other brands over the last couple years and honestly if I had a clean slate to install this or the Whiteline ones, I would install these. I have grown to dislike all the weird stuff Whiteline does on the ID of the polyurethane parts. Persistent problems have gone away when I replaced the Whiteline bushings with other polyurethane bushings. That said, I think this outrigger bushing is probably a low risk area and that weird knurling they have on their bushing is probably fine and I will continue to use it. These are brand new, just trying to split the difference with someone who might need these bushings. Picture attached is what you receive. $40 Shipped, or send me a reasonable offer.
  9. I am doing a few more rear subframe bushings and found out the following regarding a these bushings. The bushings that mount the rear subframe to the body of the car seem to be a little hard to find, and ultimately I went with Powerflex for these and the rear diff rearward bushings. Powerflex will tell you the subframe to body bushings will not fir the BL/BP but they do fit and they are listed on the BL/BP webpage even though its not on the diagram. Use these at your own peril Powerflex Body to Rear Subframe Bushings: PFR69-417 elgin.owens had a few helpful posts regarding this bushing in this application here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-subframe-bushings-254353p2.html I also found after the fact that energy suspension offers polyurethane bushings for this application as well: 19.4102G for black and 19.4102R for red. These are cheaper and if you are averse to the color purple or want to deal with a company from the US (this comes up in a minute, bear with me). I happen to like purple and these are probably the most hidden bushings on the car, so color isnt a big deal. For the Rear Diff Rearward bushings, I got the Powerflex PFR69-416, which is actually listed for the car, but I cannot recommend these bushings at the moment. These bushings, with the inner sleeve installed are about 0.010" too small on the OD. I called Powerflex here in the states and they have to forward this to the parent company in the UK before i get a response. Since all these bushings are cast, I would think that all of these, at least from the last run are the same size. I tried the subframe to body bushing in this hole since subaru designed this bushing with the common 59.50mm housing and that one fit great, and those bushings with the sleeve installed measured 59.65 to 59.80mm Again I am waiting to hear back from Powerflex but I would be pretty upset about this if I wasn't doing this on a spare subframe and had to get the car back together to go to work or drive my kid to daycare. Also, quick tip for rear subframe bushings: I used a modified version of my tried and true method to get bushings out when not using a press. The way that usually works for me is holesaw the center out from both sides, sawzall through the shell, hit the shell out. Most suspension bushings will take about 5 min each this way and use pretty normal tools. Since the subframe bushing is so long and the center sleeve is so large, a holesaw isnt really useful. You can heat up the inside of the sleeve until the rubber starts to sizzle, push the center tube through the now slick rubber, then cut through the shell and hit it out.
  10. Just to update this thread; I had the exact thing happen to mine today (Plastic barrel broke and it didnt stay in the slot) and I fixed it for free. Disclaimer: I am a Mechanical Engineer with access to a full machine shop. Thanks so much for the detailed description and pictures it really helped me out. I had enough of the broken barrel to get the dimensions off of it so I could machine a new one. Snapped it on and put it in the groove, added more grease to the front of the track and everything worked like it should.
  11. Hah, great innovation, nice work! I use my truck frame as a fulcrum when breaking the bead on my motorcycle tires. I still think the holesaw + sawzall is a great option to remove. It negates the need to have a pocket to press the already installed bushing into. This helps especially with thin walled steel bushing housings. A good number of aftermarket poly bushings dont need a press to be installed either so it makes this a home job in those cases.
  12. When I pressed my whiteline bushings into my aluminum control arm, I think there was considerable force required on the front control arm bushings. I'm certain my large arbor press couldnt have done it, and i doubt my medium sized vises could do it. Maybe with some heat, but that seems a little scary to me.
  13. I cant remember if I employed this method when i did the front control arm bushings but my method was to cut the core out with a holesaw, trim/score the outer shell and hammer it out. That was getting them out, even having a press at my disposal. Pressing them in, I did use a press, but I will remind you, a press is just one part of the equation, I used a whole bunch short lengths of steel tubing, round stock, etc to get the setup just right so i could actually use the press, so the price of a press is just one thing. Its the star of the show, but i doubt a press alone could get it done. Also consider the setup required for the front bushing. Your press needs to be of sufficient size to house the whole control arm. Anyway, this should be an easy job for a competent shop, so maybe call around some more, ask your locals. I dont know what the going rate is but the cost of a the cheaper HF presses sounds about right for all 4 front bushings.
  14. I saw the other thread and I had hoped when looking into this there was a silver bullet solution for people wanting both either keep 5x100 when swapping, or easily swap to 5x114.3. I found no such missing link part in my search. When I did my research, it seemed Subaru employs 2 of what I will call 'bolt patterns' on rear hubs for the vehicles designed as a derivative of the BP/BL chassis and beyond. There is the small bolt pattern that we have and the larger bolt pattern that the STis use. I found no example of a 5x114.3 using the small bolt pattern (which is why machining the trailing arm to fit these hubs seems like a decent choice), but I did in fact see some cars with 5x100 employing a 'large bolt pattern' rear hub, suggesting that for those cars there could be a parts bin upgrade to 5x114.3. The next generation legacy (BM/BR) is one of these cars. I didnt really look into that though. I have some spare front hubs off my car laying around and I could try pressing the inner part out, but that doesnt really help me too much about the rear, other than feasibility in being able to disassemble the preassembled hub/bearing units. A few more thoughts on hubs: Given the hub housing fits in the same bore between STi hub and the 'smaller' hubs we have, I would think the only way to increase longevity of the bearings would be to increase the width of hub (using wider rollers inside the bearing) which actually appears to have been done with the newer impreza hub I suggested. I wonder if these hubs have about the same resistance to wear the STi hubs do. That being said, my rear hubs have 80k mi on them and if they started making noise tomorrow, I wouldnt exactly be upset with that lifespan, so while I can understand seeking greater strength components, my personal use hasn't driven me down a path to seek to increase the strength on that component, especially when they arent that hard to change. I have spare trailing arms to mess around with and a machine shop to play in...but I havent yet seen a reason to set the trailing arm up to drill it out for the large bolt pattern hub.
  15. Ive been in and out of this thread over the years, but cant say ive read all of these pages, so if this has been covered, I apologize, but I believe I may have another potential solution for more easy to obtain rear axles when converting to the R180. I think you are able to run STi axles (2004-2007) when installing a R180 differential in the 4th gen legacy platform if you swap to 2012+ impreza rear hubs. As far as I could tell, the STi axles are nearly the same length as the Spec B axles based on this thread reply: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4392808&postcount=17 And this image for replacement STi axles (which are less than $60 ) Next, the hubs gotta be a match aside from the drive spline, the new ones have to have 27 splines where our stock hubs have 25. 2012-2019 (maybe later) Impreza (and everything else on that platform that came later : https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5829054 2005-2009 Legacy Rear Hubs: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119780 The key differences here (aside from the spline count) is the flange offset which differs by about 1mm and the height of the bearing in the back. More on that below: The 'new' hubs would push the rotor out about 1mm. This may cause some issues with both the parking brake and rear brake. I think this 1mm may be forgivable when working with new rotors and slightly worn brake pads. Who knows, it might even work with new pads on the caliper, but youd give yourself more room with slightly worn pads. Secondly, that hub sticks into the trailing arm a little bit more. This poses 2 problems: axle length (which is kinda a question mark to begin with) and abs sensor. After looking at the Legacy trailing arms, you might be able to get away with drilling out the threaded hole for the screw that holds the ABS sensor in and holding the sensor in some other way. Hopefully you are still with me, but I just wanted to share what I found when considering my options while looking at a potential 6MT swap. The spec B axles seemed a bit difficult to come by so I started looking at adapting the car to use more common axles. I havent tried it yet but I have enough parts laying around to try it off the car should I decide to go down this path. I personally have the option of machining alot of this stuff to work, but I like to put the effort up front to try to find solutions that dont require machining of common replacement items, especially so others can employ the same solutions.
  16. Also check the backing plate behind the rotor. Its sandwiched between the hub and the knuckle and will make a scraping noise if the rotor contacts it through a rotation. If the plate is bent and you can identify where its happening, you might be able to get away with pushing it back into position by hand. Dont even need to jack the car up!
  17. Scroll down for the TL;DR version. I've seen a handful of posts regarding the Whiteline rear sway bar making contact with the rear toe arm but never came across a solution to them other than buying adjustable end links and dialing them all the way out, so I figured I'd post my solution. I also HATE bling parts. I bought the whiteline bars because they were silver and not some other weird color that IMO does not belong under a car. I have also seen some other brands implicated (Hotchkiss) but it seemed to be more prevalent with Whiteline (but I may be guilty of confirmation bias here). I also was able to confirm that this is a 'post revision' sway bar. I did search and search before posting this but if this has been covered before, please forgive me. Anyone who has this issue should be familiar with the sound, a tinny tap from the rear at nearly full droop, before the suspension becomes loaded again. The evidence is clear, especially when the rear is jacked up with a wheel off. There is paint worn off the black toe arm and your sway bar end link may even be resting on the toe arm. Somewhat paradoxically, bolting the end links to the 'softer' setting on the sway bar makes this problem even worse. I was content to live with this very minor occasional issue and the incidence seemed to decrease over time so I was happy. Fast forward a few years to me "testing out" my new KONI shocks on the shite roads leading into work. I've broken enough sway bar components in various cars to immediately know the springy BONG/CLANK sound I heard was sway bar related. I had broken one of the rear sway bar bushing clamps. My blissful ignorance had ended and my no noise, no problem has become a big problem. When I got home, not only was the sway bar bushing clamp broken, but the skinny brackets they bolt to (which I had known is a common failure point, but I was still gonna send it) were also mostly broken. I'm nearly certain that the sway bar end links contacting the rear toe arm is mostly responsible for breaking these. The problem is, the most accepted way to fix these is to add the AVO brackets which space the bar back even further which make the contact issue even worse! Not having enough time to take the subframe out, weld up reinforcements and put it back after work in one night, I just put the AVO brackets on and crossed my fingers. Obviously the contact issue was back and worse than before so I decided to employ the lengthen the sway bar endlink trick, but wayyy cheaper and wayyy less bling. I spent some time comparing MOOG sway bar end links and I found 2 candidates that would work. I stopped searching after finding the one I was gonna buy, so there could be more, but thats up to someone else to find out. The criteria were heavy duty, greaseable, ends pointed in the same direction and about 0.5" longer than the legacy ones. I found 2 that would work: Ford Mustang SN95 Rear sway bar end links, MOOG part number: K80102 1991 Saturn SC1 Rear sway bar end links, MOOG part number: K90520 I bought the Saturn ones because they were like under $10 each and right around 1/2" longer than the Legacy ones. I just bolted them up and they are perfect so far. The mustang ones are about 1mm shorter than the Saturn ones and there might be some nice aftermarket options for those too. Maybe you can get a few more options for adjustable end links if that is your thing. Hope this helps someone with the same issue as me TL;DR Version Problem: Rear Sway bar end links hit the rear toe arm Solution: Longer Rear End links, MOOG P/N's: K80102 or K90520
  18. super interested in all the doors. Mine have developed some rust on the bottom. Are these rust free?
  19. I have a 16g and while i like the turbo alot, It really is the middle of the road. I think the VF40 was a good match for the car. The gear ratios and syncros are matched to the power given by the VF40. The 16g is a decent little bump, but lag becomes a little more noticeable. Turkeylord, i'd like to get you opinions of the HTA68 and how it compares to a 16g because sometimes I wish I went with that. When I was commuting on the highway, i thought I picked too small of a turbo. I still feel that way sometimes but now my commute is more backroads and in-town. The turbo lag is definitely something I notice. I know i need to get a better tune, mine is decently rich, especially when boost is building, but I dont think I could go back to a VF40 sized turbo. I have a bunch of mods to go in, namely injectors and some TGV deletes and I have a FMIC i've contemplated putting in. Matching all of this to a 16g is kinda a waste, so I am curious to see what you have to say about the HTA68. When I was actively looking for a bigger turbo, I was thinking I wanted the HTA68, but after a bunch of research, it looked like a TD06 20g was right about where I wanted to be.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use