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The tale of two OBP OBXTs | low vs lifted


KevinEdgar

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I never considered changing the rear diff bushings. Driving experience is that different?

 

Yes totally enhanced the driving experience. I have IAG stiff motor/trans mounts, kartboy shift bushing and beatrush carrier mounts yet I STILL had some driveline slop. Changing these bushings cleaned up the remaining slop.

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OK. I think I will do this next. Looks like you need to drop the subframe? Which bushings did you get again?

 

I saw a thread on here showing how to remove the rear bushings without pulling the subframe but to me it was “easier” to just pull the subframe and have a shop press em.

 

Whiteline part #s KDT906 & KDT905

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I’ve been having an issue with the EGT sensor coming loose each time I drive the car. It’s super annoying, ordered some high temp loctite and I’m going to see if that will solve that issue. Rear fenders have been rolled enough to stop the 265s from rubbing under acceleration. Hopefully that’s all it needed, I still have 12 clicks of stiffness left on the coilovers if I need to. Going to hopefully get an alignment tomorrow then I’ll call trakspec to setup an appointment for corner balancing.

 

Really gotta get the IAG AOS for this car next and then I’m done messing with it for a while.

 

Planning on taking the car to subiefest October 17th with another fellow black obxt.

Edited by KevinEdgar
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Get the EGT deleted from your tune. My EGT is chopped. Acts like a plug now with a tail. ;)

 

You know. The same night I posted that I ended up cancelling the loctite order cause I remembered I was suppose to delete the EGT haha. For some idiotic reason I tossed the Tomei plugs so I’ll have to buy one at the hardware store. Actually gonna go to Home Depot now so I don’t forget.

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Picked up this hardware to make an EGT plug, its a 25mm bolt so it's kind of long. I didn't see shorter ones in the bin butttt I also didn't look that hard. So I stacked 3 washers to pull the plug out a big, paired with a lock washer lets see if it stays in. I left the EGT sensor connected and ziptied it to the PS hose since I don't know yet if it is deleted on my tune.

 

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Feels crazy saying this, but with the 265s the car seems to have a lot more float and steering input feels more numb and less confident. Might be the shitty alignment I just got. Maybe I have to raise tire pressure. Or maybe 255s was the max width I was supposed to run. I have an appointment to get the car corner balanced and aligned on October 14th and if it still feels numb after that, I may need to downsize the tires…

 

Maybe I had become comfortable on the old cheap federal RSRR? The s04s are only 10mm wider but the driving is really different now.

Edited by KevinEdgar
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I'm so glad you commented on that, bc you're kind of pioneering for OB owners here with 265's on 18's. 255's were the widest I'd read any of us going, and your making both 255's and 265's look easy.

 

Boxkitta did something like 275's on 18's for his LGT, but that was most certainly not for the faint of heart who daily drove. Not too mention the money and time he spent to get that far. No thanks. I'm not there yet. But after this next set of MPS4s. I'd like to graduate to 57CRs in Gun Blue II wrapped in 255's. I'm leaning more towards 255/35 after you bc while I like Rhitter's 255/40 setup, it might just be too much tire for me. Idk. Plenty of time to decide, but I really like your old set up and thanks to you it's tried and true.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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A shitty alignment? wth? you need to find a race car shop that does alignment/corner balance. The stiffness knob is for fine tuning at different tracks to maximize sticking in corners. Use the preload & height setting to adjust clearance on ride height. Also when corner balance is done, the cross-weight percentage should be 50%, exactly (if it's not, don't pay).

 

If you are using wide all-seasons or wide summer tires to make up for "grip" it's time to step up to slicks. 225-245 slicks are more than enough for these cars. Tbh, without a cage, the body twisting is enough to change your cornering under heavy load.

 

the floaty feeling is the sidewall load & tire tread not holding up. (i don't remember your tire/wheel configuration). 265/35 bridgestone s04 pole positions. Also with wide tires, any slop in the suspension will be magnified.

 

toyo rr, hoosier r6/a7, goodyear r1, hankook something, michelin pilot something. You'll want the section width and tread width as close to same size as possible for less slop. Then match tread width to rim width. less slop equals better handling.

 

Tire pressure management will become a thing too. Especially as the day/track gets hotter. A heavy car requires proper tire management. Or a big wallet. Usually both. At least your tires have the the tread wear indicator on them (little triangle on side of tread). As long as the wear line is at tip of triangle, your tire pressure is good.

 

Hub bearing wear is consistent with a CW track (video indicated a CW track). The wider tires will decrease hub bearing life. Higher cornering speeds will decrease hub bearing life.

Edited by boxkita
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I'm so glad you commented on that, bc you're kind of pioneering for OB owners here with 265's on 18's. 255's were the widest I'd read any of us going, and your making both 255's and 265's look easy.

 

Boxkitta did something like 275's on 18's for his LGT, but that was most certainly not for the faint of heart who daily drove. Not too mention the money and time he spent to get that far. No thanks. I'm not there yet. But after this next set of MPS4s. I'd like to graduate to 57CRs in Gun Blue II wrapped in 255's. I'm leaning more towards 255/35 after you bc while I like Rhitter's 255/40 setup, it might just be too much tire for me. Idk. Plenty of time to decide, but I really like your old set up and thanks to you it's tried and true.

 

The 255s were pretty easy but I did have to roll & pull the rear fenders quite a bit and the front fenders a little bit. 255/35 was a solid setup, just looked like I could fit more tire so I went with the 265. I put the 255/35 through some hard driving and it held up well.

 

A shitty alignment? wth? you need to find a race car shop that does alignment/corner balance. The stiffness knob is for fine tuning at different tracks to maximize sticking in corners. Use the preload & height setting to adjust clearance on ride height. Also when corner balance is done, the cross-weight percentage should be 50%, exactly (if it's not, don't pay).

 

If you are using wide all-seasons or wide summer tires to make up for "grip" it's time to step up to slicks. 225-245 slicks are more than enough for these cars. Tbh, without a cage, the body twisting is enough to change your cornering under heavy load.

 

the floaty feeling is the sidewall load & tire tread not holding up. (i don't remember your tire/wheel configuration). 265/35 bridgestone s04 pole positions. Also with wide tires, any slop in the suspension will be magnified.

 

toyo rr, hoosier r6/a7, goodyear r1, hankook something, michelin pilot something. You'll want the section width and tread width as close to same size as possible for less slop. Then match tread width to rim width. less slop equals better handling.

 

Tire pressure management will become a thing too. Especially as the day/track gets hotter. A heavy car requires proper tire management. Or a big wallet. Usually both. At least your tires have the the tread wear indicator on them (little triangle on side of tread). As long as the wear line is at tip of triangle, your tire pressure is good.

 

Hub bearing wear is consistent with a CW track (video indicated a CW track). The wider tires will decrease hub bearing life. Higher cornering speeds will decrease hub bearing life.

 

I got a temporary alignment so I can drive the car and decide on ride height before I take it in for the corner balance next month. I stepped up to 265 not for grip but just because it looked like I could fit a wider tire. I'm not really sure where I could find any slop in the suspension but I'm gonna put the car on stands here soon for a thorough inspection. The tires are 265 on a 9.5" rim and its pretty squared. The 255s had the tiniest amount of stretch that allowed the wheel lip to be exposed.

 

I'll have to remember that hubs are consumable now. Just sucks cause when I change them I have to cut the studs each time. But I'm getting good at it.

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Why do you have to cut the studs each time?

 

I'm using a 20mm spacer and my TEs don't have pockets on the mounting face, so the oem studs hit the back of the wheel. Therefore I have to cut a few threads off each oem stud so they sit flush in the spacer.

 

I don't think I have elaborate on this yet

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so 9's would fit?

 

Also curious about this.

 

I've never personally used spacers, and my experience with them is limited.

 

1) If you were to use extended wheel studs and a spacer vs the bolt-on spacer, would you be able to make it work just the same for your desired fitment? Or would you run out of stud?

 

2) Have you noticed any excessive wear on the wheel bearings or anywhere else since using spacers?

 

3) Have you noticed sketchy noises?

 

4) How big are your spacers?

 

5) Are you still using 5x100 bolt patter or do your bolt-ons convert it to 5x114?

 

6) Smallest spacer needed to clear the coilover body/spring with 255/35s on 9.5" wide wheels?

 

So many questions.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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so 9's would fit?

 

depending on offset

 

Also curious about this.

 

I've never personally used spacers, and my experience with them is limited.

 

1) If you were to use extended wheel studs and a spacer vs the bolt-on spacer, would you be able to make it work just the same for your desired fitment? Or would you run out of stud?

You could do extended stud and slip on spacer yes.

 

2) Have you noticed any excessive wear on the wheel bearings or anywhere else since using spacers?

I've gone through 2 sets of front bearings since owning the car feb 2016. I drive the shit out of this car too, only been on track twice though.

 

3) Have you noticed sketchy noises?

Only sketchy noise is my front whiteline swaybar making contact with the tie rods at weird and random times.

 

 

4) How big are your spacers?

20mm bolt on

 

5) Are you still using 5x100 bolt patter or do your bolt-ons convert it to 5x114?

I'm using 5x100 spacer but I do have adapters from when I used STi wheels.

 

6) Smallest spacer needed to clear the coilover body/spring with 255/35s on 9.5" wide wheels?

Its the offset that matters. 255/35 on 18x9.5 +45 needs minumum 20mm to leave about 5mm clearance. So a 18x9.5 +25 would theoretically be perfect.

 

So many questions.

I got ya whenever you need answers

 

+25 or smaller rims would clear without a spacer

 

yes

Edited by KevinEdgar
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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the car corner balanced and a proper alignment. I don't really feel like typing the whole story again so here is my yelp review:

 

I had the most amazing shop experience with Trackspec. I had first seen them on Instagram working on really nice cars. I noticed they offered corner balancing which I don't know many shops that offer. I had been waiting to get my car to a certain point before I set up an appointment. Once I had the parts I wanted on my car I set up a 6:30am appt for corner balance & alignment. Was quoted $570 which may seem like a lot up front but for the quality of work it is well worth it. They have many high end cars in their shop and the entire area is well kept including the office which shows their attention to detail.

 

I arrived a bit early as I had drove down 3 hours but they greeted me with no problem. They said it would take about 4 hours give or take so I sat in the lobby and read a book. Every now and then I would glance up and see Jon working hard on my car. My Subaru is a low end car but they still treated like a top dollar ride. I do all my own work on my cars but obviously I don't have an alignment rack in my garage. After a couple hours Jon said my car was ready and he described the corner balance process to me. He also told me of errors he found with my suspension due to mistakes I made. He corrected those which aided in dialing in the cars responsiveness and reliability. I ended up paying $600 but as soon as I drove my car I was INSTANTLY impressed. When I got home I just had to call Jon and let him know how happy I am with the car. It drove really bad on the cheapo alignment but now it drives like an arrow with razor sharp steering input, planted acceleration and smooth evenly distributed braking force.

 

tldr; car drives AMAZING, 265s worked out afteralll.

 

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Great work! Thanks for the update. Excited to see/hear about the next track day experience.

No problem, I'm super glad my setup pulled together, thought I was going to have to step down from the 265s. They did raise the car a bit but just barely.

 

Exactly which errors did you make?

 

When I installed the coilovers I didn't set the preload correct according to them. I did follow installation instructions so I don't know. They are pros I'll take their word for it. The rear coilovers were set to different heights even though I measured both sides collar to collar when I installed. Minor errors but I'm glad they brought them to my attention for future installs I do.

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