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The tale of two OBP OBXTs | low vs lifted


KevinEdgar

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I see. It is interesting how much of a difference you are able to tell.

 

No kidding, car drove so bad on the cheap alignment/coilover misadjustments. After the corner balance the front end got its sense of sharpness back. Whenever I would brake hard before the car would dive with a twisting sensation, same with hard acceleration. Only bad thing about getting this done, now I want it on all my cars that have coilovers from now on :lol:

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The 'cheap alignment' you are referring to is diy type or from regular mechanic shops?

 

 

I have learned how to do alignment at home and have been using my 05 as a guinea pig for it. I just wished I had very precise tools for it.

 

Regular tire shop.

 

Funny enough, my Silvia that I drift in japan is aligned by no tools and just my eyeballs lol.

 

What setup do you use? I’ve always been interested in home alignment setups.

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Nothing fancy at all. String method and I just bought a digital level to help with camber adjustment. Then for toe, I use the 'dream stick'. Not necessarily the most accurate tool either. I am trying to find something better for toe but still coming empty handed.

I also bought some very thin metal sheets from Home depot (eight of them), put oil in between each pair and place each pair under each tire (so they move a little easier when I make adjustments). That's about it.

I need to redo my alignment as I just replaced my failed whiteline control arm bushings.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Nothing fancy at all. String method and I just bought a digital level to help with camber adjustment. Then for toe, I use the 'dream stick'. Not necessarily the most accurate tool either. I am trying to find something better for toe but still coming empty handed.

I also bought some very thin metal sheets from Home depot (eight of them), put oil in between each pair and place each pair under each tire (so they move a little easier when I make adjustments). That's about it.

I need to redo my alignment as I just replaced my failed whiteline control arm bushings.

 

That's pretty solid for what it is, I was thinking of getting those longacre toe boards for when I visit my silvia in japan again. I just know it could drive so much better would dialed toe. But that dreamstick actually seems easier to use.

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It's not bad. You actually motivated me somehow :lol: to do my alignment this weekend. I mostly had to fix the front alignment due to the new installed bushings. Camber was like +0.4deg. Horrible in corners and easily spun the front wheels when I gunned it. Toe was off too. Reset toe to 0deg and wanted to set camber as negative as possible. I first set the right side to the max value of -1 deg. Then, when I worked on the driver side, max I could get was -.65 deg :mad:. I want moar!

Do you know of some front camber kit bolts for our car, which could increase the camber range? Btw, I can already tell the difference in cornering. And that's on the slightly lifted outback!

Also, I need to buy one of those steering wheel holders too.

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It's not bad. You actually motivated me somehow :lol: to do my alignment this weekend. I mostly had to fix the front alignment due to the new installed bushings. Camber was like +0.4deg. Horrible in corners and easily spun the front wheels when I gunned it. Toe was off too. Reset toe to 0deg and wanted to set camber as negative as possible. I first set the right side to the max value of -1 deg. Then, when I worked on the driver side, max I could get was -.65 deg :mad:. I want moar!

Do you know of some front camber kit bolts for our car, which could increase the camber range? Btw, I can already tell the difference in cornering. And that's on the slightly lifted outback!

Also, I need to buy one of those steering wheel holders too.

 

Haha nice, glad I could offer some indirect motivation! Hmm, I don't know of camber kits for the front, on my lowered outback the coilovers have the caber plates up top. And my lifted outback just has a plain tire shop alignment that has almost positive appearing front camber. I don't think the shop that did it knows how to work the camber bolts or something. I'm glad your car is handling better!

 

You talking about those things that lock the steering wheel straight while adjusting toe right? I'll have to remember to get one of those for my japan car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been messing with the lifted outback to get it ready for snowboard season. The 20$ headlight restore kit wore off so I sanded/clear coated the headlights while I was painting some other parts. Came out great, I knocked out the rad wgn head lights too but no photos since it's covered in a million dead bugs lol.

 

One of the yellow fogs stopped working so I'm getting a new set.

 

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Not too long ago the driver side driver window switch broke, like it couldn't hold its position. I picked up a new 3rd party switch on ebay for $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/183779200579 Slapped it in, tested it out, works great.

 

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I made an embarrassing discovery while trying to figure out why this car would run hot under certain conditions (loaded going uphill). There are no signs of leaking/burning coolant so I started by taking a look at the intake filter........ Yup, chalked full of shizz. Then I realize I don't think I ever changed it since getting the car, not that I remember anyways. But I do remember never being able to hear the turbo noises in this car as long as I have owned it. I also dropped in a new battery since the one it had was spent. After putting in the new intake filter and resetting ecu with new battery I can hear turboooo. Maybe this car will get more than 16 mpg now:lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

I still have to take a look at the rear diff and see why it's puking fluid.

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Yesterday after I finished painting a part for a GTR I had just enough clear left over to do some lights but I have already done all my cars headlights so I almost offered to do the headlights on my neighbors BP outback. Then I remembered I had a set of stock tail lights I was going to throw away. I grabbed em and practiced tinting on them. They turned out super black and I thought they would be unusable. Butttt after they dried I put them on the rad wgn just cause, and to my surprise I don't hate the look. It's actually kind of cool, and the light still comes through just fine. I'll take better pics but last night when I took my camera when I got gas I left the memory card in my computer lol.

 

Looking like a forza DLC car, just needs limo tint haha.

 

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Edited by KevinEdgar
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Going to pull some parts off a 5spd outback xt tomorrow, including entire rear end subframe/diff etc. While looking up fsm i realized the AT/MT XT rear diff ratios are different, dang. Still going to take it home since it's a great price and I need the rest of the parts anyways.

 

Also getting a stock catback to replace the rusted out one on the OBXT, finally will have no farty exhaust leak. And a new driver seat to replace the torn one!

 

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My clutch is slipping. Debating to either replace it or get a dual range trans :spin:. But I am not sure if a 1.447 low range is worth it. It'll come with a Cusco LS front diff and 12 or 20kg center diff though. Would you choose the 2nd option for your 'offroad' OBXT?
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My clutch is slipping. Debating to either replace it or get a dual range trans :spin:. But I am not sure if a 1.447 low range is worth it. It'll come with a Cusco LS front diff and 12 or 20kg center diff though. Would you choose the 2nd option for your 'offroad' OBXT?

 

100% would get the dual range!

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I recently reactivated my facebook so I could sell a few things and what do ya know, I find a fresh outback xt being parted out. I actually bought parts from this guy a couple years ago but he moved to a bigger location and has a full on subaru graveyard, pretty cool. When I saw his ad I asked about getting the whole rear end, exhaust, and driver seat. He told me I'd have to remove everything myself but for the price I was all for it. I noticed it has BC coilovers too but he's going to sell those for about $750, if any of you guys are interested..

 

I thought the exhaust was stock but it had a aftermarket dp which I didn't take cause I don't want the lifted subaru to have any noise mods. Buuuut for the price I took the catback with some mufflers that I can't necessarily ID. Looks like wrx but has single outlet. Idk.

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In an attempt to resurrect my rusty obxt, I took all the rear suspension bits minus the struts, including the diff(even though I can't use it for the lifted subaru) and axles. Also had some godspeed toe arms, eh why not? It has cobb front/rear sway bars and perrin endlinks but I don't need that for my OBXT

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Maybe someday next week I will throw the subframe and exhaust on? I kind of want to paint the subframe and arms with some left over trailer paint I have...

 

I was pretty impressed, I did all this work in 2hr 30min, including messing around on my phone a little and checking out the yard and chatting with the dude.

Edited by KevinEdgar
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Good find. Is that a good price on the coilovers? Will they fit my sedan?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

It’s a decent price for local pickup. Shipping cost would add an extra ~$200 then it would be almost as much as new. Should fit sedan though, I haven’t noticed any distinguishers between wagon/sedan on coilover brands I have shopped for.

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