What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[killjoy323232]

5 hours ago, Flaris said:

I received my new brake pads and rotors, but have no time to install them today. I am considering using steelstik to fill an overdrilled hole where the metal bracket/hood strut clip goes so I can re-drill the correct sized hole -- however, I'd been thinking 10mm was correct, but it might not be.

So today is "figure out what size hole the washer fluid reservoir bolt will fit into and measure it out" day. Whenever I can get that metal bracket onto Subi I'll finally be able to reinstall her air inlet duct. Worst case scenario is I'll just see if any of the local dealers have it (901120061), buy a couple and take them to a hardware store to try to eyeball the right sized drill and tap to use.

Ugh, thats exactly what I “repaired” today…except I cheated and used a combination of M6 hardware to secure it, as my ‘Amazon special’ tap would not cut threads.

 

It’s not on as tight as I’d like (there’s next to no room under that part of the rad support even after taking the grille and hood latch off, so good luck holding that blind inner nut still) and will probably rattle apart even with a lock washer, but it’s something until I can tap it properly.

 

Tomorrow’s job is drilling/riveting the driver’s door support beam back in place to stop that rattle.

[seanyb505]

On 12/1/2023 at 11:34 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

I remember having a leak there after the rebuild. It was the hose connected to the thermostat. Clamp was loose. That'd be nice if that is your problem. Easy fix.

Ding ding! If there were awards on the Internet you would get one today. 

I tightened the lower hose clamps to güttentite (they were not at the beginning) and cleaned everything up, then idled up to temp on jacks. 25 minutes of garage idling including fan activation and the temp gauge hasn't gone over normal.

I did notice the radiator side initially gave up a few drops as it approached normal. My suspicion is over the last year or so, it's probably dripped enough to dry off, but made the coolant level low enough to overheat. Once it overheated it probably expelled more coolant, leading the about 2/3rds a gallon of coolant loss. 

After topping off the water Thursday morning, leakage has slowed significantly. Like a single drop from the tray after driving 30 minutes home at varied speeds. 

Hooray no timing belt shenanigans! 

[xt2005bonbon]

Good to hear! Hope it'll stay that way.

As for me, my random misfire on cylinder 2 came back right after this morning first pull . When it first happened (last week), I did swap coil packs as well as tightened the #2 spark plug which was definitely loose. It then ran fine after that. But for some reasons, crazy misfires happened again in that cylinder after the pull this morning. 

This time, I swapped spark plugs to see if the misfire will follow. #2 plug was already sooty, but I was able to clean it a bit (brand new spark plug).

After that, did like ~10 3rd/4th gear pulls! Nothing. She purrs. Idle good. Trims good. So I still don't know if the plug is fouled or the injector is acting up.

[pksystems]

Picked up some LGT front calipers from the junkyard for refurbishing if I don't use my 17Z Brembos.  While I was there I also grabbed some 18Z Brembos to sell and put in the money jar for more LGT parts.

[Enlight]

A BP/BL meet in Japan

 

[jaylew]

 

On 12/3/2023 at 10:33 AM, Enlight said:

A BP/BL meet in Japan

All the wagons!!!!! New favorite video

[xt2005bonbon]

On 12/2/2023 at 9:09 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

Good to hear! Hope it'll stay that way.

As for me, my random misfire on cylinder 2 came back right after this morning first pull . When it first happened (last week), I did swap coil packs as well as tightened the #2 spark plug which was definitely loose. It then ran fine after that. But for some reasons, crazy misfires happened again in that cylinder after the pull this morning. 

This time, I swapped spark plugs to see if the misfire will follow. #2 plug was already sooty, but I was able to clean it a bit (brand new spark plug).

After that, did like ~10 3rd/4th gear pulls! Nothing. She purrs. Idle good. Trims good. So I still don't know if the plug is fouled or the injector is acting up.

Update...

She did it again last night after she warmed up and I did a 2nd gear pull. Misfiring like crazy in #2 right after the pull, lots of negative fuel correct (-25%) and running super rich. Will check injector #2 tonight. Hopefully, it's just a failed oring..

[ckwaters]

I installed my 60mm Defi gauges and installed my new pod made by Ortiz Custom Pods. 
Also installed a charger with USB C and a volt meter. 
And I relocated the dimmer knob for the supercharger cooling fan to the steering column. 
Lots of little stuff but it had to be done. 

 

Edited December 5, 2023 by ckwaters

[Flaris]

I'm heading out to get the bolts I need to push the old rotors off of Subi. I'm thinking that if I'm lucky, I'll be able to take care of the ABS sensors whilst I'm futzing about back there. I'm also going to be grabbing some sandpaper to clean up the calipers, hub and back-of-wheels with and using some sil-glyde to lube up the brakes correctly, after double checking to see if it'll have any adverse affects using it on the glide pins before I head out, though, as I hear some types of lubes can affect the rubber boots (cap?) adversely.

I now have detected low-speed rubbing on the front passenger side (which stops if I turn away from the direction of the sound) and a roaring around 65mph on the front drivers side, so I'm thinking I've got a bearing issue as well. Suspension is definitely in need of replacement in the back, as her rear bounces like she's at a rally going over any speedbumps or railroad crossings at sub-20mph -- so I may as well look into replacing the full set as well.

tl;dr: Rear brake job + TLC for Subi + Awareness of more to fix.

Future plans are:
Wheel bearings (all)
Shocks/Struts/Springs/That whole assembly (front and rear)
Front brakes (Likely Element3's with Akebono pads just like the rears)
Fluid change (all -- only after floor jack acquisition because scissor jack is too risky and prevents me from placing stands properly)
Fumoto F105 Oil Drain Valve installation (For later fluid changes, for the oil specifically, though I may need to research more for the right fitment in case GT/2.5i have different sizings)

Edited December 5, 2023 by Flaris

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Swung by the shop yesterday to drop off some items and got an update. All remaining new hardware got delivered today and then moving onto the chassis braces. Sad news is the Endless SS brake lines I got were the wrong ones so resorted to using the custom made SS set specifically for Legacy Brembo conversions. Brake setup looks damn good though.

[Code]

Do you mind sharing the exact powder you used on the calipers?

[Code]

Also, what is the purple thing under your rsb bracket reinforcement?

[seanyb505]

On 12/1/2023 at 11:30 AM, seanyb505 said:

A friend of mine recently picked up a Volvo, so I ordered some prancingmoose.com shield stickers as a Christmas gift. While poking around the site I saw he now has a few Subaru emblem vinyls. Ordered carbon fiber with pink stars just for fun.

Not sure how I feel. The steering wheel is carbon fiber vinyl with star stickers stuck on that. Oh well could be worse. I'll work on the tailgate one when it's consistently warmer outside and not below the recommended temp range while adhesive cures. 

[DoctorDaveLGT]

@Code I actually don't know the exact color. Just realized I never bothered to ask him, but in short it's Candy Blue. I should probably reach out and ask for the records. The purple you're seeing are Powerflex PU rear subframe bushings.

[lagwagon]

Had new coils and plugs installed and had a compression test and leak down test done.

Cyl 1 - 130 - 2%

2 - 120 - 2.5%

3 - 125 - 2%

4 - 125 - 2%

So we know my pistons and rings are in good shape and no burnt valves. Still trying to figure out what is causing all the knock (other than our crap gas). I thought maybe the fuel pump was dying as knock seemed to be much worse below half tank but after watching it very closely for the last couple of tanks it seems to be a weak correlation (but not non-existent).

I'm still leaning towards it being either cam gears or a non-engine component that is hitting the same frequency as knock, maybe something in the transmission. The last rabbit hole was the leaking TGVs but deleting them didn't make anything better, other than fuel trims are pretty good (except B, which is always totally out of wack).

Edit: also washed the car on the weekend since we needed it to snow and that's how that works - wash car, get snow.

Edited December 7, 2023 by lagwagon

[xt2005bonbon]

Does it knock a lot in open loop or in closed loop?

[lagwagon]

3 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Does it knock a lot in open loop or in closed loop?

It'll knock (-2° of FBKC) in open loop under 2000 rpm clutching in and out but I usually let it warm up to 120-130° before driving. Open loop/WOT, I haven't noticed any but I don't drive the car over 4000 rpm often, or WOT often (probably still enough to get to peak requested torque due to how those correlate with pedal position). Usually it knocks at constant speed (my average day I max out at 80km/hr), or moderate acceleration, or high load/low rpm like maintaining speed on hills. I actually very rarely see the knock events but I see the FKL adjusting and have seen it as bad as -3.8 recently, on top of the -5 I've pulled from the A/P itself. I tried to decrease the amount of timing pulled but knock got worse (I think that post is a few pages back in this thread now) so it's back at -5 again.

[xt2005bonbon]

So, did you notice exactly in which load and rpm range that knock keep showing up? Also, as you probably know, high load and low rpm is not a good combination. But I do get lazy sometimes to downshift .

What I'd do is basically log and keep note of the load/rpm range it happens and, if it is indeed happening in open loop, check if the actual AFR is meeting the AFR target.

[lagwagon]

3 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

So, did you notice exactly in which load and rpm range that knock keep showing up? Also, as you probably know, high load and low rpm is not a good combination. But I do get lazy sometimes to downshift .

What I'd do is basically log and keep note of the load/rpm range it happens and, if it is indeed happening in open loop, check if the actual AFR is meeting the AFR target.

That's my plan. Mech's thought is fuel starvation, as was my thought. I'll watch the fuel strategy as well, hadn't thought to do that so thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Flaris]

Ordered a Cabin air filter, wipers, Ignition Coil Pack (B/E Rebrand of OEM, to have as a backup, if current fails testing) and a WIX 57712XP Oil Filter.

I've also ordered a PCV Valve from the Subaru Dealership near me and I'll be requesting a quote for installation once I have it so that, if I fail (again) to get the old one off I can have someone else give it a shot.

I've discovered a coolant leak, dripping onto the drivers side heat shield. I can't seem to see the source from up top, so once I get a better floor jack (that can actually lift Subi high enough for jack stands) I'll be checking to see if I can find it from below when I go under for generalized leak-finding (vaccum, fluids, exhaust so on and so forth) and rust-hunting.

[pksystems]

Pulled the pistons from my junkyard calipers and tossed the bare brackets/calipers into a bucket of evaporust.  I'll leave them in there for a couple weeks, occasionally giving them a scrub till they look new. 

[SilentJ20]

I test fit my wheels to check clearances before tires.  Discovered something concerning...

My post in the wheel thread.

Learned either my car is different than everyone elses, or something is off.  Everything I've read and seen says they should fit fine.  Not poke out the fender almost an inch.

[WRX USA]

55 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

I test fit my wheels to check clearances before tires.  Discovered something concerning...

My post in the wheel thread.

Learned either my car is different than everyone elses, or something is off.  Everything I've read and seen says they should fit fine.  Not poke out the fender almost an inch.

What wheels did you remove and did they have hub centric spacers? When I installed my first of my new TE37's, I didn't realize that the spacer from the Enkei that I removed was stuck on the hub and I had issues getting five lugs on. I imagine with extended studs you could overlook this. Only 2 of 4 stuck to the hub and not the wheel.

[SilentJ20]

3 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

What wheels did you remove and did they have hub centric spacers? When I installed my first of my new TE37's, I didn't realize that the spacer from the Enkei that I removed was stuck on the hub and I had issues getting five lugs on. I imagine with extended studs you could overlook this. Only 2 of 4 stuck to the hub and not the wheel.

I removed the factory 18x7 et55 wheels.  Factory-equivalent hubs, no spacers, no rings.  I didn't have the new rings yet so I just carefully put the Enkei Triumphs on with 3 lug nuts, just tight enough hold firm to get a look, plenty of thread to hold them on.  Idk, it's weird.

[Ashtone]

…drove it in the snow.