What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Infosecdad]

4 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

I will listen to emperical evidence, especially from the experienced members here... but do you really suppose a ~0.5v increase to the coils is enough to kill them? I mean, everything is still being kept in check by the reg/rec no?

I ask from the context of having replaced the wiring to coils on other applications in the past, where old wiring was causing voltage drops, and I wanted to get 'max' voltage to the coils for good spark.

Not dead set on the diode "mod" just thinking that as these cars age out, what used to be smalll voltage drops are probably getting a little worse, and I am not going to re-wire the whole car, clearly. Just the things that really matter or that have known fixes. (fuel pump + wrx/sti FPCM) etc...

My car is full of little fixes to address factory weaknesses.

Can't tell you with 100% certainty that the voltage increase did the coils in. Right now I'm at 13.9-14.2v without it, so I'm good right now.  If you want to test it out, I'm pretty sure I can find it and send it to you so you aren't dealing with shipping from Australia.  

[KZJonny]

3 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

My car is full of little fixes to address factory weaknesses.

Can't tell you with 100% certainty that the voltage increase did the coils in. Right now I'm at 13.9-14.2v without it, so I'm good right now.  If you want to test it out, I'm pretty sure I can find it and send it to you so you aren't dealing with shipping from Australia.  

No hurry. I'd be interested to play around with it. I think you're coming to the ECM tho? Save the shipping, if you've got room in the car somewhere to pack the fuse.... 

[Infosecdad]

I ordered the DW wiring kit, but I'm going to run it to the STi controller.  Depin what I need to, wire up the kit to the controller, and the 10/12 gauge wires from the controller to the pump.  Should happen early next week, assuming I get my finals written so I have the time (next week is finals week).

[KZJonny]

Found an STI FPCM on facebook marketplace. Not the end of the world, but it seems like a lot of work doing all that wiring not to go the full monty and just feed the pump what it wants.

@Infosecdad if you have a chance to take photos of the tools and method you use to pin/depin the connectors, I’d really appreciate seeing them. It’s a job I’ve never done before, tho I understand in principal.

[KZJonny]

On 4/29/2023 at 1:53 PM, Infosecdad said:

I ordered the DW wiring kit, but I'm going to run it to the STi controller.  Depin what I need to, wire up the kit to the controller, and the 10/12 gauge wires from the controller to the pump.  Should happen early next week, assuming I get my finals written so I have the time (next week is finals week).

This look like the one you got from the STI? No part number, but it does at least look similar to the LGT one, so I would assume it's about right.

[Infosecdad]

3 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

This look like the one you got from the STI? No part number, but it does at least look similar to the LGT one, so I would assume it's about right.

Yup, looks just like that.  If you pull off the wiring there, the LGT plug will fit right into the black connector.

I have the pigtail for the other end (white), so I may use that as it's much heavier gauge wire.

[Infosecdad]

The failing fuel pump was replaced with DW 300c.  Getting too practiced at replacing, so going after the wiring as well this time.

Trim pieces were pulled to aid in upgrading the fuel pump wiring.

Tomorrow the DW wiring kit comes and I'll wire 10g and relay from the battery to the pump through a relay.

Tuesday the soldiering station upgrade comes and I'll finish the wiring of running the 10g ground from the controller to the pump for the PWM.

(What good is a project if you don't get to upgrade some tool?)

I'm going through the controller to try to keep stock 33/66/100 capabilities and I know the STi controller has heavier wiring than the LGT controller so it shouldn't have trouble with the increased voltage. (The LGT might have been fine, but I'm all for something more engineered for this.)

 

Found a couple of interesting points from an iWire article.

https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/what-is-a-fuel-pump-controller-fpc

Quote

EJ Platform Fuel Pump Controllers

Like most things Subaru, the EJ fuel pump controller regulates the fuel pump's speed on the circuit's ground side. A consistent 12v signal flows through the controller. Meanwhile, the controller uses pulse width modulation (PWM) for cycling the ground side on at off at different intervals to control the speed of the pump. So the shorter the duration of the off time, the faster the pump will spin.

Low = 33% (7v-8v when testing)
Medium = 66% (9v-10v when testing)
High = 100% (12v+ when testing)

 

Quote

Engine Swaps from non-turbo to turbo platforms

Non-turbo platforms (except for 6-cylinder) do not use a fuel pump controller because they don't have a wide variation of fuel requirements. An appropriately sized pump for the application can flow at a consistent rate without causing issues.

When swapping a car, the fuel pump controller must be added since the non-turbo car didn't have one from the factory. This is important to add because of the issues noted above, like fuel pressure, fuel temperature, and for safety reasons.  

I didn't realize that NA doesn't have a fuel pump controller...  That's kinda important if you are going to turbo...

[Gex]

10 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

The failing fuel pump was replaced with DW 300c.  Getting too practiced at replacing, so going after the wiring as well this time.

Trim pieces were pulled to aid in upgrading the fuel pump wiring.

Tomorrow the DW wiring kit comes and I'll wire 10g and relay from the alternator to the STi controller.

Tuesday the soldiering station upgrade comes and I'll finish the wiring of piggybacking 10g from the controller to the pump.

(What good is a project if you don't get to upgrade some tool?)

I'm going through the controller to try to keep stock 33/66/100 capabilities and I know the STi controller has heavier wiring than the LGT controller so it shouldn't have trouble with the increased voltage. (The LGT might have been fine, but I'm all for something more engineered for this.)

If you strip the interior and make it a racecar it’s so easy to access!

Let see if these sticky 245 Hoosiers fit for Fridays track day. Also put the new front brakes on. Still need to bed the pads. Excited for Friday! After the track day it’s going to English racing for Haltech stand-alone and E85 tune along with a few other special upgrades. 

[blide]

Well, I got to make an insurance claim yesterday.  On the way home from the Taylor Swift concert in Atlanta, traffic on I 20 slowed to a crawl.  We had been in start and stop traffic for a mile or two and almost to the end of the slow down, when I pulled forward 50 feet and stopped but the Tahoe behind me decided to use me to stop.  Got a few scuffs on the rear bumper cover and one nice gash where the tow hook of the Tahoe buried itself in my bumper.  It's very frustrating to spend almost a year building a car and for someone to ram in the back of it for no reason.  My daughter was with me and said that the lady driving the Tahoe was, of course, on her phone.  Anyway, I guess I'm getting a new bumper cover out of it and thank goodness the other vehicle had insurance.  

[KZJonny]

57 minutes ago, blide said:

Anyway, I guess I'm getting a new bumper cover out of it and thank goodness the other vehicle had insurance. 

Seriously not being a troll here, but... uh what? Is this everywhere in the US, or a specific regional thing, that the person that hit you has to have insurance for you to be covered? 

I mean, I can kind of understand insurance for your own vehicle being optional (it is here in Canada) but how is it that you can go out and smash into someone else, and not be held accountable?

I believe my insurance will cover me while driving to the meet up, but I feel like I need to double check if that is dependant on the insurance status of another driver...

[KZJonny]

In other news, installed a Perrin turbo inlet today, or at least finished up the job. Read some walk throughs, and all the rest, and even so, the pain is real.... Managed not to cut up my hands or anything too bad, but I have no idea how anyone attempting this without a good selection of long reach pliers and ring pliers would ever finish up without completely losing it at least once.

As is, the fitment is still only maybe 8/10 and I have to get/make some adaptors to get the EVAP purge line to fit the inlet properly.

If it weren't for it being a decent price used on eBay, I think I would just get another OEM one if I knew then what I know now.... Eh. It can't hurt, and I guess it looks kind of blingy.

Edited May 1, 2023 by KZJonny

[blide]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Seriously not being a troll here, but... uh what? Is this everywhere in the US, or a specific regional thing, that the person that hit you has to have insurance for you to be covered? 

I mean, I can kind of understand insurance for your own vehicle being optional (it is here in Canada) but how is it that you can go out and smash into someone else, and not be held accountable?

I believe my insurance will cover me while driving to the meet up, but I feel like I need to double check if that is dependant on the insurance status of another driver...

In the US, to legally drive a vehicle on public roads, you must maintain insurance.  However, plenty of people drive without insurance.  And, yes, if an uninsured vehicle hits you, your insurance will cover it and try to get payment from the accountable driver.  Unfortunately, if someone is driving without insurance, they probably don't have the money to pay out of pocket either.  And, one way or another, your insurance company is going to get their money back.  What usually happens is your rates will go up when your policy renews and/or your policy will be a little more expensive from the beginning to account for the possibility/probability of an accident with an uninsured motorist.  And, judging by the condition of the Tahoe that hit me, they wouldn't have been able to pay if they didn't have insurance.  

[KZJonny]

21 minutes ago, blide said:

In the US, to legally drive a vehicle on public roads, you must maintain insurance.  However, plenty of people drive without insurance.  And, yes, if an uninsured vehicle hits you, your insurance will cover it and try to get payment from the accountable driver.  Unfortunately, if someone is driving without insurance, they probably don't have the money to pay out of pocket either.  And, one way or another, your insurance company is going to get their money back.  What usually happens is your rates will go up when your policy renews and/or your policy will be a little more expensive from the beginning to account for the possibility/probability of an accident with an uninsured motorist.  And, judging by the condition of the Tahoe that hit me, they wouldn't have been able to pay if they didn't have insurance.  

Gotcha. Some degree of worry about driving down in the US is relieved now, but I'll still probably make that call to my insurance, just to make sure I am square. Seems we have what amounts to a similar system, but the way it works with plate and licence renewals and requiring proof of insurance at every step, it's relatively rare to come across someone driving without insurance, tho not impossible. The fines for getting caught without it are *very* high as well, which helps to maintain compliance.

Sorry to hear about your rotten luck so soon after doing all that work, but glad that it works out that all parties were insured and you're not in for a fight.

[ckwaters]

My first time welding! I welded together some pipes, flanges and made a mounting bracket. Huge improvement over my old exhaust. 
now I have single 3” or dual 2.5” the whole way. The supercharger should be able to breathe harder now. 
Sound clip 

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by ckwaters
More pictures

[KZJonny]

Is that a custom built up wagon, or are 4th Gen 3.0L's just really rare? I only recall really seeing the 3.0L in 3rd gens around me, but that is Canada, so we got/didn't get some stuff that other markets may have. (Facelift manual wagon GT's for example...)

Looks awesome in any case, and I admire the gutsy attitude to pick an exhaust system as your first welding project!

[Holla]

 

On 4/23/2023 at 7:51 PM, Gex said:

Put the wagon in its new spot. Fits like a glove. Need to get it prepped for May 5th track day. 

 

 

Random question, how tall is the ceiling in your garage?  

Beautiful collection as always!

[GearJamr]

18 hours ago, KZJonny said:

In other news, installed a Perrin turbo inlet today, or at least finished up the job. Read some walk throughs, and all the rest, and even so, the pain is real.... Managed not to cut up my hands or anything too bad, but I have no idea how anyone attempting this without a good selection of long reach pliers and ring pliers would ever finish up without completely losing it at least once.

As is, the fitment is still only maybe 8/10 and I have to get/make some adaptors to get the EVAP purge line to fit the inlet properly.

If it weren't for it being a decent price used on eBay, I think I would just get another OEM one if I knew then what I know now.... Eh. It can't hurt, and I guess it looks kind of blingy.

I'm looking at either the Perrin or Cobb.  The Perrin seems better to me.  I'm not going to sacrifice my sanity for the install.

[KZJonny]

2 hours ago, GearJamr said:

I'm looking at either the Perrin or Cobb.  The Perrin seems better to me.  I'm not going to sacrifice my sanity for the install.

Honestly, it wasn’t all that bad. But you’d better have those long reach ring/hose pliers.

I’ve got kinda small hands, and it was an annoying job. Not terrible, and I was actually expecting worse, but prepare to be there for a while…

Can’t speak to Perrin vs. Cobb, but while I understand about the EPA thing, I’m a littlE soured on COBB for selling me an AP that *very* shortly after purchase doesn’t do what I need it to, so I am spending my speed parts money elsewhere…

[KZJonny]

Happier news:

GS Intercooler is a relatively painless install. Really well designed. Happy with it.

[xt2005bonbon]

Keep an eye on the intercooler splitter. After a couple of weeks of use, mine cracked and rattled (could trigger false knock). Sent it back to GS for a replacement under warranty. Did it again a month or so later. JB welded that thing. Been fine since. I have a thread somewhere about it.

[ckwaters]

9 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Is that a custom built up wagon, or are 4th Gen 3.0L's just really rare? I only recall really seeing the 3.0L in 3rd gens around me, but that is Canada, so we got/didn't get some stuff that other markets may have. (Facelift manual wagon GT's for example...)

Looks awesome in any case, and I admire the gutsy attitude to pick an exhaust system as your first welding project!

There are quite a lot of 3.0L from 2005-2009 but none in USA are manual. The car is very custom and a lot of fun to drive. 

[Gex]

11 hours ago, Holla said:

 

 

Random question, how tall is the ceiling in your garage?  

Beautiful collection as always!

10’ Ceiling. Direct lift 8k something or other 4 post. 

 

[KZJonny]

13 hours ago, ckwaters said:

The car is very custom and a lot of fun to drive. 

Supercharged H6?! I bet it's a riot to drive.
 

I'm sure they're around, but there can't be many 3.0L 4th gen wagons in my market, or there is a reasonable chance I would have ended up with one.... although with the dearth of information on the manual swap, maybe not!

[KZJonny]

Failed last night attempting to re-boot my rear axle with the bad boot. Too much corrosion on the joint outer housing, and the boot won't stay put. No amount of screwing around with clamps would get it to stay where it has to.... probably the reason the old one failed in the first place. Another lesson learned in the rust belt.

Set of decent looking OEM CV's off of Ebay are on the way from Quebec.

That was most of an evening wasted, aside from learning when not to try and salvage a thing! Hah! Plus side to all that is getting 2x good looking OE axles for the price of one reman, so I'll give them a coat of rust encapsulator and they should live fairly happy lives since the GT doesn't do winter duty any longer.

[amm203]

18 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Keep an eye on the intercooler splitter. After a couple of weeks of use, mine cracked and rattled (could trigger false knock). Sent it back to GS for a replacement under warranty. Did it again a month or so later. JB welded that thing. Been fine since. I have a thread somewhere about it.

I wonder if this is the source of some of my random knocking. My GS splitter has a slight sag under the hood and I can get it to rattle if I push on it with my finger. Assuming engine vibrations accomplish the same rattle. Short of taping it, sounds like JB Weld is the way to go. No plans on removing the intercooler or splitter anytime soon.

 

In other news, crossed over 140K miles and 40K miles on the rebuilt engine. OEM 5EAT is somehow still going strong. Not launching but not exactly babying it either.

Edited May 2, 2023 by amm203