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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Cleaned her up a bit and reinstalled all the interior pieces in the hatch area. Had to block up the vents back there as I was getting some pretty serious fumes coming through.

 

Tomorrow the car is going to the dealership (Gengras) for the airbag recall and brake line issues. When I scheduled the appointment the worker told me it would only take 1-2 hours which kind of worries me. Thought they had to remove the whole dash.

 

Going to take detailed photos of the dash area and a video of me driving down a bumpy road to exhibit that I currently have zero dash rattle.

 

I just get worried handing it over. Going to take out the accessport and tell them not to mess with the ECU. Apparently they are doing a multi-point inspection so who knows what they will come up with.

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Put in the rear subframe. Recaro seats are at Automat Customizing and Restoration to get fixed. DAMD steering wheel is at Stich to get reupholstered. One of the M14 bolts attaching the subframe resisted a lot - how do they get boogered up like that? Tap on order.

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Bessie II's Thread

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Well my buddy and I went at those lower front strut bolts. Penetrating fluid, air and electric impacts, torch, and repeat, but only got the upper bolts to break.

 

Removing the rear control arms will be just as difficult I assume. Whatever, I'll just gonna cut it all out once my back feels better.

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Sorry I took so long to get back to you. I was in Alaska. Just took a couple of videos this morning.

Anyone else interested this is what a 3.0R with raptor headers and a custom exhaust, high flow cats, to JDM Legacy STi mufflers sounds like.

 

 

Here the video of my 3.0R with STI mufflers and everything else stock. I will definitely go for the raptor headers in a future.

 

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Yuuup, just as soon as I finish projects that actually make me money, not the other way around.

 

 

Do both and make some car porn

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Tomorrow the car is going to the dealership (Gengras) for the airbag recall and brake line issues. When I scheduled the appointment the worker told me it would only take 1-2 hours which kind of worries me. Thought they had to remove the whole dash.

 

A few years ago I remember multiple members had heard that techs found a faster way to do it without removing the whole dash. They somehow do it by pulling the center cubby, and going through the glovebox area too.

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A few years ago I remember multiple members had heard that techs found a faster way to do it without removing the whole dash. They somehow do it by pulling the center cubby, and going through the glovebox area too.

 

 

Yea it seems that's what they did. I could tell the center cubby had been messed with but that was about it. Took them less than 2 hours for the airbag and brake line treatment.

 

What made me happy was the car passed their multi point inspection with no issues. The tech was surprised at how good of shape it's in.

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Removed the dash last night to replace the driver side temp control motor. Now I am in the debate of leaving the dash out for another day or so to order up the re-circulation motor too. I have already replaced the passenger temp control and mode control motors. Convince me to replace or just throw the dash back in!

IMG_3661-min.thumb.jpg.3a6041ac6cb14a84a8d01f0a90d9e40e.jpg

IMG_3663-min.thumb.jpg.f57809e1079441e48b89ea3391986374.jpg

IMG_3671-min.thumb.jpg.2dee5aecb4dc9544876c0c3b99568348.jpg

Wagon is LIFE! - 267,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Removed the dash last night to replace the driver side temp control motor. Now I am in the debate of leaving the dash out for another day or so to order up the re-circulation motor too. I have already replaced the passenger temp control and mode control motors. Convince me to replace or just throw the dash back in!

 

 

I would replace them all, can't hurt at this age. Most of them are impossible to get to with dash in place.

 

 

Probably throw some sound insulation while you there. Beware of scope creep though ;)

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Sold....just ordered the recirc motor and while i was throwing stuff in my cart, I accidentally ordered an engine under tray :lol:...totally not a mistake. Looks like my intention of the dash being out for only a day is now gone. New plan, car on the road by the weekend.

 

 

Also I am well aware of scope creep...I minored in that during college

Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 267,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Today i purchased a plug and play Brembo rear brake kit. They come from a Legacy 3.0R JDM. I want them to arrive fast !!!

 

287c48a569ac3f38220da1ddb849c1ad.jpg

 

Enviado desde mi SM-A515F mediante Tapatalk

Edited by Ajerezcl
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Removed the dash last night to replace the driver side temp control motor. Now I am in the debate of leaving the dash out for another day or so to order up the re-circulation motor too. I have already replaced the passenger temp control and mode control motors. Convince me to replace or just throw the dash back in!

 

Do you plan on giving it a nice flock since its out? :cool::lol:

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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I snagged a set of F/r spec b aluminum bits for $350 shipped. I plan to update all of my whiteline bushings prior to install. Unfortunately they didn’t have the lateral links so I’ll try to source a set of them. What do you guys use to clean the grime off of aluminum?
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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I snagged a set of F/r spec b aluminum bits for $350 shipped. I plan to update all of my whiteline bushings prior to install. Unfortunately they didn’t have the lateral links so I’ll try to source a set of them. What do you guys use to clean the grime off of aluminum?

 

Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner and some nylon scrub brushes worked wonders for me - completely refreshed my arms to look like new. It is acid-based so definitely wear gloves and be careful where the water runoff goes to after you hose them down. It'll also cause the mirrored machined surfaces of the aluminum to get hazy. Didn't affect the bearing mounting at all, though. Here's a post showing before and after with the cleaner: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5895944&postcount=3745

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I snagged a set of F/r spec b aluminum bits for $350 shipped. I plan to update all of my whiteline bushings prior to install. Unfortunately they didn’t have the lateral links so I’ll try to source a set of them. What do you guys use to clean the grime off of aluminum?

 

I sent mine out to media blasting and powder coat, I had them done in silver so they look like aluminum. I did grind away a small corner for the rear brembos on one side. I was able to get the bolts torqued on the other side without having to remove any material.

I got my set for $400 ish, and came with the upper links, did not come with the lower sway bar mounts. I had to buy new ones from Subaru. I replaced all the bushings with Whiteline and replaced the arms with the Whiteline adjustable bits.

I'm into my rear end refresh for a good amount of coin, but everything is new or next to new to include wheel bearings.

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I sent mine out to media blasting and powder coat, I had them done in silver so they look like aluminum. I did grind away a small corner for the rear brembos on one side. I was able to get the bolts torqued on the other side without having to remove any material.

I got my set for $400 ish, and came with the upper links, did not come with the lower sway bar mounts. I had to buy new ones from Subaru. I replaced all the bushings with Whiteline and replaced the arms with the Whiteline adjustable bits.

I'm into my rear end refresh for a good amount of coin, but everything is new or next to new to include wheel bearings.

 

That would have been a perfect time to upgrade to the Cusco rear HD sway bar end link brackets (part # 684316A), rather than the OEM ones.

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That would have been a perfect time to upgrade to the Cusco rear HD sway bar end link brackets (part # 684316A), rather than the OEM ones.

 

Yeah, except for the small problem of not knowing they even existed… thanks for the part number. I’ll keep it on my wish list for later.

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