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How much time should I allocate for replacing the turbo?


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Christmas came early and the VF52 is here. The turbo was ported and polished, and upgraded with a billet GTR style compressor wheel by Hill Country Forced Induction in New Mexico.

 

I have been reading up on the process and it was suggested that I need a helper. How much time should I tell my helper the job is going to take? It will be the first time we are working on a Subaru. I will also be swapping in the upgraded oil lines and remove banjo bot filter.

 

Anything else I should do while I am at it?

 

Thanks

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Edited by Scoobiidoo
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First time I did it, it took 4 hours including having to cut heat shields off by hand with tin snips. Second time around, about 2 with a friend. Really depends on how stuck/rusted fasteners are. Pre-spraying with penetrant helps. Aside from dealing with rust, the only tricky parts are getting the oil return hose seated and a distance second getting the inlet hose onto the turbo.

 

I'd do the up-pipe too, IIRC the 06 still has a catted one stock.

 

Another note: if I'm remembering right, the 06 OBXT uses B25 heads. Assuming you buy the IAG oil line kit, instructions will tell you to mount the included AN tee fitting on the back of the head, where the banjo bolt you'll be pulling the filter out of lives. The instructions are written assuming a D25 head. Slight difference in the casting, where the B25 has a protruding tab that makes it impossible to mount the tee there.

 

You'll have to either knock down that tab with a Dremel or similar (being super careful not to get any debris into oil port on the head if you've already removed the banjo bolt), or mount the tee elsewhere. Two options are atop the turbo or on the passenger side AVCS oil control valve banjo. The included fitting is aluminum, so I'd hesitate to put it on the turbo.

 

Didn't have a Dremel on hand since I was doing my turbo/oil line replacement a state away from home immediately after buying my car, so my tee ended up going on the OCV. The oil lines just barely made the distance, and I wasn't comfortable with the lack of any slack in one of the lines. I ended up picking up a slightly longer line when I got home, cost me an extra $30.

Edited by awfulwaffle
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First time I did it, it took 4 hours including having to cut heat shields off by hand with tin snips. Second time around, about 2 with a friend. Really depends on how stuck/rusted fasteners are. Pre-spraying with penetrant helps. Aside from dealing with rust, the only tricky parts are getting the oil return hose seated and a distance second getting the inlet hose onto the turbo.

 

I'd do the up-pipe too, IIRC the 06 still has a catted one stock.

 

Another note: if I'm remembering right, the 06 OBXT uses B25 heads. Assuming you buy the IAG oil line kit, instructions will tell you to mount the included AN tee fitting on the back of the head, where the banjo bolt you'll be pulling the filter out of lives. The instructions are written assuming a D25 head. Slight difference in the casting, where the B25 has a protruding tab that makes it impossible to mount the tee there.

 

You'll have to either knock down that tab with a Dremel or similar (being super careful not to get any debris into oil port on the head if you've already removed the banjo bolt), or mount the tee elsewhere. Two options are atop the turbo or on the passenger side AVCS oil control valve banjo. The included fitting is aluminum, so I'd hesitate to put it on the turbo.

 

Didn't have a Dremel on hand since I was doing my turbo/oil line replacement a state away from home immediately after buying my car, so my tee ended up going on the OCV. The oil lines just barely made the distance, and I wasn't comfortable with the lack of any slack in one of the lines. I ended up picking up a slightly longer line when I got home, cost me an extra $30.

 

 

Thanks for the info. The car is very clean and well looked after but I will spray some penetrant the night before just in case. Wish I could do away with a non-cat uppipe but I am in California and trying to stay stock looking and sounding. Going to cover up the pretty powder coating with a blanket too. Do you think it is a good idea to do away with the heatshield? If not I would have to make sure the cutting looks stock enough for untrained eyes.

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Off topic a bit but that there is a pretty compressor. How much did it run if you don't mind sharing? Good luck with the install. It doesn't seem like a terrible job.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

I got very very lucky with this turbo for sale by the PO who decided to take a completely different direction for his build. This turbo was shipped directly from Hill Country. I won't disclose the price I paid but they have this on their web site for $750 - http://hillcountryforcedinductions.com/rhf55-ihi-vf52-ported-billet-compressor-wheel/

 

*This is not an endorsement for Hill Country Forced Induction*

 

I am familiar with the billet GTX style compressor wheel from my K27 turbo upgrades so it was a no brainer to go with it. I will reserve review for Hill Country after I have it running for a while. From what I can find they have a very good reputation and following.

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Thanks for the info. The car is very clean and well looked after but I will spray some penetrant the night before just in case. Wish I could do away with a non-cat uppipe but I am in California and trying to stay stock looking and sounding. Going to cover up the pretty powder coating with a blanket too. Do you think it is a good idea to do away with the heatshield? If not I would have to make sure the cutting looks stock enough for untrained eyes.

 

No problem. As far as keeping it stock looking, I think some folks gut the stock up-pipe cat. Otherwise, you could track down a stock up-pipe from a LGT/OBXT, FXT or WRX/STI from a year when they came with a secondary air pump instead of a catted up-pipe which will have OE looking heat shields and all. Don't know if the inspector would know the up-pipe should have a cat, as I've never lived in a place that inspects cars.

 

Both my LGTs ran without issue sans heat shields, as both rusted right around the bolts making cutting them off the only choice when doing the up-pipe. No functional/thermal issues for me, if that's what you mean.

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I'd plan a day for the first time.

 

Use anti-seize on all threads going back together.

 

Oh, I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe, makes lining up the new oil return hose, inlet and up pipe at the same time much easier. I use OEM bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block.

 

Leave the turbo loose on the up pipe until the tmic is lined up and tightened.

 

DSCN4783.thumb.JPG.2b4c8760b93535c66ba5474bb3c5944b.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If the turbo swap is all you’re doing I can’t see it taking more than a few hours. But if other stuff is being done at the same time I’d plan on taking longer. The last one I did was partially started when I took over but it was done in an hour.

 

I really doubt that a later, stock Subaru no cat uppipe would fail inspection. But if there is concern of that I’d consider knocking the catalyst out of your current pipe and reinstalling it. Whatever way you go, I’d get it out of there.

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I’d definitely source a non cat up pipe from a later year model as yours is old enough now. I’d hate to see you do all this work only to have you blow the turbo / motor down the road when your old cat gives up the ghost. Would be shocked if an OEM unit caught the eye of an inspector.
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Other tips to help you avoid lots of cussin and wanting to beat the engine with a hammer:

1. Source replacement turbo to DP bolts, studs and nuts (the stock hardware loves to seize)

 

2. Extend the oil drain tube by about 3" (helps when trying to seat the turbo back in place)

3. Think about using a turbo blanket in place of a rigid shield (less annoyance)

4. Put the inlet to turbo clamp on the inlet (never take it off if possible)

 

5. Get yourself a set of those pick and hook tools to help the inlet slide over the turbo inlet flange

6. Make a water and soap solution to lube the turbo inlet (it dries and there is no oily residue)

7. Remove the DP hanger bolt to give yourself more play DP play (you can disconnect the DP to CBE for even more)

 

8. Soak you turbo to DP hardware in PB blaster or Liquid Wrench

9. Prime that shiny new snail (the turbo) on the bench or pull the FP relay to turn the engine over without firing to build and circulate oil

 

10. While you may think to yourself "now is a good time to replace the OEM inlet...well it is but add a few hours to the job. The stock location inlet is the most miserable thing ive done on a EJ255

11. If you use a updated non-cat OEM UP make sure to put all the nuts in place prior to seating the turbo the bracket bolt is inaccessible afterwards(vibration city!)

 

12. Take pic of current layout and mark hoses with color grease pencils

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Once the DP and turbo are out of the way. The up pipe should be the two mount bolts, the EGT probe and wiggle it out.

 

I highly recommend you not put the studs in the up pipe. Bolt the turbo to the up pipe.

 

Use anti-seize compound on all threads going back together.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Once the DP and turbo are out of the way. The up pipe should be the two mount bolts, the EGT probe and wiggle it out.

 

I highly recommend you not put the studs in the up pipe. Bolt the turbo to the up pipe.

 

Use anti-seize compound on all threads going back together.

 

A little confused with the 2 mount bolts and don't put studs in the uppipe. I hope I didn't buy the wrong uppipe.

 

From what I bought, the turbo side has 5 studs. Here's a pic of it

 

*Looking at your pic I can see you are using bolts for all 5 of the studs. Where can I source the bolts? Part numbers? That is assuming I can extract the rusty studs*

Uppipe.thumb.jpg.b19cf7e5c6a9fb53e8cbafdf316ca630.jpg

Edited by Scoobiidoo
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A little confused with the 2 mount bolts and don't put studs in the uppipe. I hope I didn't buy the wrong uppipe.

 

From what I bought, the turbo side has 5 studs. Here's a pic of it

 

*Looking at your pic I can see you are using bolts for all 5 of the studs. Where can I source the bolts? Part numbers? That is assuming I can extract the rusty studs*

Part number:

 

010410200

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Was reading @Alex609 's adventure on swapping VF52 into his 05 LGT where the turbo squished his TPS due to tight space - https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5059850&postcount=97

 

Now I am getting a little paranoid on the whole uppipe and VF52 install. Thanks to the early warning resources from this forum I am going to be extra careful watching out for the clearance space.

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For what it’s worth, I am in California and haven’t had any issues not having a cat in the up pipe. 08+ LGTs don’t have one so you’re fine. And STI unit would be best fit if you can source it. I’m running Invidia’s with the EGT bung (unused) and have no issues with fitment, though some people have reported issues. I’m also using a VF52.
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For what it’s worth, I am in California and haven’t had any issues not having a cat in the up pipe. 08+ LGTs don’t have one so you’re fine. And STI unit would be best fit if you can source it. I’m running Invidia’s with the EGT bung (unused) and have no issues with fitment, though some people have reported issues. I’m also using a VF52.

 

Thanks. Where in California are you? I have an OEM Sti uppipe on the way. Are you running a custom tune?

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