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New year, new build...v.3.0...R?


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That's a good question that I'm not sure about. I never data logged oil pressure when I had an EJ. I can tell you I had an 11mm pump, killer bee oil pan and baffle, and it seemed like oil pressure at higher rpm was on the bypass at 90psi but I never watched it all the way through a pull to 8000 rpm.

 

When I tore that engine down the main bearings were perfect and the rod bearings had a lightly polished spot at about 1 o'clock. This was after 3 years and 30-40000 miles making over 500 whp and turning to 8k.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I'm definitely hoping it helps with your problem.

 

Appreciate it!

 

So little update. Got the car running after the bent valves. Switched to ethanol. Made the rolling launch quite a bit less aggressive thinking that the high, pulsating exhaust pressure from the antilag is what kept the exhaust valves from closing in time or popping them open at the wrong time. Went out and tested the rolling launch and bent the exhaust valves in cylinder 4 again. :mad: Damnit. Pic shows one of the wonderful advantages of individual EGT. You know immediately which cylinder is the problem.

 

I got some info from the HPA forums that it probably is a weak valve spring issue since I had been using stationary and rolling launch for a few years without issue. So, pulled engine again, new exhaust valves in cylinder 4, new Supertech valve springs, got engine back together, and then broke my leg in a car accident before I could get the engine in. :spin:

 

Leg is healing well, but I'm off my feet for at least 6 weeks, probably 8. Engine will be in as soon as I can work on it and then I want to get the boost up and to a dyno ASAP. Injector Dynamics fuel calculator shows I've got enough injector for 25 psi boost on E60. I plan on using all of it.

 

Here's to no more bent valves and no more oil pressure or trigger issues on the way to 700 WHP.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
Added pic.
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Haha, nope. Was tuning a friends drift car. We were in a rush getting it ready for an event in Sonoma. All the safety equipment needed to be updated and a brand new engine needed to be tuned and broken in. We got the engine in and running before we got the harnesses in. I took it out for a spin around our shop to get some data to work with. Got into a dusty spot of pavement in a tight spot where we keep our heavy equipment. Wasn't at 100% throttle, but enough to break the tires loose and put it into a loader. :redface:

 

I don't remember anything. I'm just repeating what my friends told me happened. Not only did I not have a harness on, but I didn't have a helmet on in a car with a cage. Hit my head on it. Really lucky to not be in a coma or dead. Huge tough lesson to learn to always, always wear a seat belt in a car. Doesn't matter what you're doing. Low speed in a parking lot, put your damn belt on.

 

Also broke the screen on my laptop. It was really creepy to get it charged up and connected to a monitor with an HDMI cable and to have the fuel map I was working on still sitting there.

 

My friends took the steering wheel and gave it to me as a Christmas gift. I was holding on damn tight!

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  • 2 months later...

Looking real good man.

Do you suffer from fairly high IAT with the air filter set up like that? I mean, I know you have a front mount, so that must help but still. I also realize you do not have much option as there's no more room in the bay.

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I have 3 iat sensors, so I can definitely give you a good answer. :lol: I have one at the compressor inlet and outlet and one in the usual spot in front of the throttle body.

 

At the inlet it gets warm. Not too bad if the car is moving. Outlet temps get very hot under boost. Can't remember off hand what I see at 16 psi but I want to say 250F. Then at the throttle body I usually see a little more than ambient temps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm impressed with the quality of this build. Haltech ECUs are so advanced and you are taking full advantage of its capabilities. I also love Xona rotor turbos. Two products I'll definitely be using in my build.

 

I've wanted to do a EZ build but with a 35/65 dccd STI transmission and trunk mounted battery, electric hydraulic ps pump (like your Volvo pump) to restore some weight balance from the heavier ez. Im a road course and BMW guy so I appreciate a well balanced car. I prefer how EJ cars handle. I dumped my Subaru projects for a front mid engine E36 K24 build. I think Honda engines are hyped up way too much, cylinder heads are great but I don't like the shortblock design or balancing of an inline 4. I believe a flat 6 engine is the best design.

 

Great work. Impressive you do everything yourself. priceless build that no shop could replicate for any money. Subscribed.

Edited by SAABaruu
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got rid of my t-bolt clamps and old silicone couplers for some new couplers and Turbosmart turbo seal clamps. Made for a fun little project.

 

Also wrapped the charge pipe right off the turbo. That air gets hot and I don't want it radiating into the manifold. Posted a pic showing a 2nd-4th gear pull at 17 psi of boost and the air temps. Turbo outlet gets to damn near 300F, but the intercooler pulls pretty much all that heat out. Turbo inlet temp is around 20F higher than ambient.

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Man, you can't leave that engine bay alone for more than a month! :spin:

 

Here I go again. :lol:

 

Currently have an ACT Prolite flywheel. I really like how responsive it is, but normal upshifts, or really anything other than a flat shift, end up being really clunky. The revs drop faster than I can change gears.

 

So I'm going to put a Streetlite flywheel in.

 

Car is currently at 20 psi boost. Slowly putting some timing in it. It was very under timed running pump gas. 10:1 compression just doesn't like 91 octane and boost.

 

Injector duty cycle is at 75% at .83 lambda with E60. Should have enough injector for 25 psi boost. Once I get there and if there aren't any problems I'll probably rent an AWD dyno for a couple hours to get timing where it needs to be.

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  • 1 month later...

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