New year, new build...v.3.0...R?

[BrandonspecB]

Not a huge update, but the car is still running and moving along.

 

Found a smoking deal on a 3000 mile 2020 STI transmission. It was missing the transfer housing, transfer gear, and output shaft. Found the parts I needed and now have a practically new trans with a front LSD and DCCD. I also wanted the shorter 5th gear the STI has. It shifts like butter compared to the original trans. I had to relearn how to drive the car with how smooth it shifts.

 

I also installed a Bosch combined pressure/temp sensor to monitor fuel pressure and temp. Now I have a compensation table setup to adjust fuel based on fuel temp. Just one more thing to keep the fuel in line under all conditions.

Edited February 13, 2021 by BrandonspecB

[xt2005bonbon]

Sooo, you now have a 6 speed trans you want to get rid of? I am only 3 hours or so away

[BrandonspecB]

If you want it it's yours. I've got it up for sale with a 3000 mile pressure plate and clutch disc for $1500. The local subaru guys have been pretty flaky thus far.

[tysparks81]

If you want it it's yours. I've got it up for sale with a 3000 mile pressure plate and clutch disc for $1500. The local subaru guys have been pretty flaky thus far.

 

I might be interested in that clutch at a temp. Replacement if the other guy doesn't want it

[xt2005bonbon]

I am a noob in terms of gear ratio; just found this:

obxt 3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738

spec B 3.636 / 2.235 / 1.521 / 1.137 / 0.891 / 0.707 /

 

So, that means that the spec B first gear is easier to start the car on an incline or something right?

[BrandonspecB]

Yeah, easier to start, but a lower max speed in first.

[xt2005bonbon]

Was asking cause I do a lot of light offroading with our car and also play in sand dunes and stuff quite a lot . As a matter of fact, been eyeing a custom built dual range trans assembled in Australia, which supposedly can also handle our engine torque. But obviously, $$$. And then I need an R180 diff, axles, driveshaft (?), etc...

 

 

 

tysparks81, go ahead if you want it. I know I am letting a nice deal go away but I 'need' to upgrade my intercooler first.

[BrandonspecB]

Looks like there are camshafts available for the EZ30R. They require AVLS delete and DLC coated buckets. And the price...

 

https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/subaru/ez30

[BrandonspecB]

Here I go with another pickup post.

 

I got another oil pan and pickup and the original pan was definitely flattened. The new pan has a nice angle in it and the old pan doesn't. I had never seen an EZ30 oil pan before and had no idea they have a light bend in them.

 

I measured the pickup clearance with a new pickup and pan and it's a good 1/4" clearance. I still lopped off the bottom of the pickup to reduce the restriction to the pump, but left the screen in place.

 

So far so good with oil pressure. No metal in the oil or pan. Oil analyses have been coming back clean. Last oil change there was nothing in the filter. If the weather is good this weekend I'm going to turn it up.

[xt2005bonbon]

Looks like there are camshafts available for the EZ30R. They require AVLS delete and DLC coated buckets. And the price...

 

https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/subaru/ez30

 

 

More expensive than an EJ257 SB!!

 

 

 

If the weather is good this weekend I'm going to turn it up.

 

 

[BrandonspecB]

A friend just got a 2013 WRX so we went out for a little subi cruise. Had to give him a little wastegate.

 

LOUD!

[xt2005bonbon]

Looking good and sounds pretty good! I can't remember: pump gas or E85?

[BrandonspecB]

Pump gas. Got the meth injection system I'll be turning on this weekend.

[BrandonspecB]

Installed a DCCDPro Spiider center diff controller with iWire's plug and play kit. Pretty neat little gadget.

 

DCCD LED Display

[BrandonspecB]

The meth injection system works amazing. Started at 16 psi and got up to 20 psi and I started getting fuel pressure failsafe trips. It's looking like my fuel pump is dying. It can't maintain a constant pressure rise with boost once it reaches around 20 psi.

 

Looking at my fuel pump options I decided to get a DW440. It's their new 440 LPH brushless pump that fits in the factory housing!. It also includes a PWM module that will work great with the Haltech.

[ckwaters]

I just stumbled upon this thread and read the whole thing. I'm delighted to see it's still ongoing. I'm a big fan of the H6 engines and it's great to see someone giving it the time and energy it deserves. Epic build!

[xt2005bonbon]

Installed a DCCDPro Spiider center diff controller with iWire's plug and play kit. Pretty neat little gadget.

 

DCCD LED Display

 

 

Nice. Why didn't you find a spot on the center console though? Would have been nice to have it there no? like stock? Not a lot of room left but still.

 

 

 

The meth injection system works amazing. Started at 16 psi and got up to 20 psi and I started getting fuel pressure failsafe trips. It's looking like my fuel pump is dying. It can't maintain a constant pressure rise with boost once it reaches around 20 psi.

 

Looking at my fuel pump options I decided to get a DW440. It's their new 440 LPH brushless pump that fits in the factory housing!. It also includes a PWM module that will work great with the Haltech.

 

 

 

 

I need to look into this meth injection system. Was this $$$?

[BrandonspecB]

I have no room on the center console. The switches are really deep too, so it was hard finding a place for them to go.

 

The meth system is one I pieced together. I wanted to do a constant pressure, direct port, pulse width modulated setup. I bought a pump from Snow Performance. I've been using their kits for many years and have never had a pump fail. Pressure is your friend with meth/water injection, so I bought one of their 300 psi pumps. More pressure means better atomization.

 

Direct port means each cylinder gets the same amount of meth. Most systems have a single nozzle that injects upstream of the throttle body. This can easily lead to lean cylinders because fuel injected manifolds aren't designed to evenly flow liquids. The EZ manifold has a 90 degree turn from the throttle body to each cylinder. There's no way each cylinder will get even amounts of meth without direct port.

 

I bought a PWM valve and direct port nozzles from Aquamist. The nozzles have built in check valves that stay shut with manifold vacuum. This is important with a direct port system because without a check valve the manifold vacuum would suck the lines dry. Aquamist's nozzles are works of art. They are compact and easily removable.

 

The valve is controlled by a spare fuel injector output in the ECU. With it being PWM I was able to build a table using RPM and MAP to control the flow of meth to the engine. This is what I spent a lot of time doing over the weekend. I had built a base table that I was sure would flow too much and then trimmed and shaped it until I got the AFR I wanted with the meth system on. Still lots of work to do with it.

 

This setup is far better than the systems that change the output of the pump to control flow. Those systems have low pressure at low flow and high pressure at high flow. Not ideal. A constant pressure system has full pressure all the time and flow is controlled by the valve opening time. This gives you good atomization at all flow levels.

 

By incorporating the meth system into the Haltech I can have the system disable for any reason I want. I installed a pressure switch in the meth line that if the pressure drops below 200 psi the system will disable and revert to pump gas boost and timing maps. If there's excessive knock, disabled. Fuel pressure too low, disabled. EGT too high, disabled. Oil pressure low, oil temp high, air temp high, AFR too lean, etc, etc, etc...disabled. I honestly don't know how I lived without a standalone this capable.

Edited March 3, 2021 by BrandonspecB

[xt2005bonbon]

Holy crap man. Me want . Thanks for the detail info.

 

So if I were to replicate this on an EJ25, I would have to drill through the plastic intake manifold. Are you going to install a similar setup on your other car?

 

Also, approximately how much did it end up costing you, if you don't mind sharing?

[BrandonspecB]

Yeah you need to drill and tap each runner in the intake manifold. The daily is staying low power. It has a downpipe and that's it. I even lowered the boost a bit on it. I want it to live a long happy life.

 

I've got around $850 in it. But that doesn't include the price of a controller.

 

The best system out there is Aquamist. It's PWM and has built in fail-safes. Very expensive though. Aquamist HFS3

 

With that kit you still need to add direct port nozzles and a reservoir. That would easily make it over 1k.

 

I think meth injection is a good option if e85 isn't readily available. It's like an octane on demand system. You can keep pump gas range and availability and have detonation resistance only when needed.

Edited March 3, 2021 by BrandonspecB

[BrandonspecB]

Fuel pump got here quick! It's a neat little unit. Just a little bit of cutting the factory housing and it fits. Easy install and easy wiring. Quiet too.

 

And it moves fuel! At 100% duty cycle it completely overruns the regulator at idle. At 75% duty cycle at 16 psi boost it overruns the regulator by 6 psi. 60% duty cycle is where it is at right now for WOT. Plenty of headroom.

 

After installing it I took it out to do some pulls and see how it works. First pull, boost comes up to 16 psi, pulls nice and hard and then BAM, rev limiter. Damn fuel pressure failsafe tripped. I pulled over and checked the log and saw fuel pressure was over target now. The failsafe is set for +/- 5 psi of target fuel pressure. Definitely a better problem than not enough pressure.

 

If things go well I plan on getting back to tuning and tinkering this weekend. Hopefully I can get it to 25-26 psi and see how things look.

[BrandonspecB]

So I got a little carried away. I was under the car a few weeks ago and was looking at my leaky rear end () thinking about pulling it to reseal and gasket it when I thought to myself, "how can I have an engine and trans with around 3k miles, but a rear end with 166k?" I got on ebay and found an R180 that didn't have the lowest miles (53k) out of all of them on there, but didn't cost the most either.

 

Now, the only original parts of the drivetrain are the rear axles, driveshaft, and 3 wheel bearings.

 

I didn't know this, but the STI R180 driveshaft flange is bigger. I had to zip off the nut that holds it on and swap flanges.

[LegacyGT007]

Great Build! What gear ratio you running on the R180 and trans?

[BrandonspecB]

Trans has a 3.90 front axle ratio with a 1.1:1 transfer gear. The 1.1:1 transfer requires a 3.54 rear axle ratio to work properly. Same as spec.b ratios this stuff replaced.

 

Wish I had a cool high boost update with some awesome numbers and videos, but I don't. New fuel pump is having issues. Randomly cutting out, even just cruising down the road or idling. I'm in touch with Deatschwerks trying to get it situated.

 

Honestly, the number one thing I have learned the most from working on and racing cars for the last 20 years is patience. It's always something.

[BrandonspecB]

I've got some friends that have been wanting me to get the car out on the road course with them. With no power steering it is a handful to try and drive fast through turns.

 

I've been thinking for the last few months how I would go about getting power steering back in the car. I really like how everything is laid out on the engine and didn't want to have to redo the turbo location and intercooler piping to get the OE pump and reservoir installed. I started leaning towards doing an electric pump. It's pretty popular in the drift community. Two of my friends have electric pumps in their drift cars. One has an old MR2 pump and the other has a Volvo pump.

 

I decided to go with a Volvo pump. They come in 2007-2013ish Volvos. The motor is brushless and the reservoir is part of the unit. They pull between 10-20 amps under normal conditions, but can use up to 80 amps if held at lock.

 

Since I "depowered" the rack that is in the car a new rack was needed. The 2015 STI rack was a no brainer. Got one of them on the way.

 

I've added quite a few electrical components to the car and really need to see what kind of amp draw it has with everything turned on at the same time. I'm sort of shooting in the dark here, but figured with the new pump I was going to need a higher output alternator.