SAABaruu

Anyone know if the newer gen front lower control arms fit the 2010-2014 Outback? From searching, it doesn't appear there is a direct bolt on aluminum arm for our vehicles (JDM are narrower). My 2013 3.6R OB is due for FLCA bushing replacement. Not interested in mevotech arms, I read the bushing is no longer solid. Is the Superpro offset bushings still the best upgrade? SPF4865K

Great build. Look forward to seeing the dyno. I really like the Xona stuff, expensive but worth the money.

I'm impressed with the quality of this build. Haltech ECUs are so advanced and you are taking full advantage of its capabilities. I also love Xona rotor turbos. Two products I'll definitely be using in my build. I've wanted to do a EZ build but with a 35/65 dccd STI transmission and trunk mounted battery, electric hydraulic ps pump (like your Volvo pump) to restore some weight balance from the heavier ez. Im a road course and BMW guy so I appreciate a well balanced car. I prefer how EJ cars handle. I dumped my Subaru projects for a front mid engine E36 K24 build. I think Honda engines are hyped up way too much, cylinder heads are great but I don't like the shortblock design or balancing of an inline 4. I believe a flat 6 engine is the best design. Great work. Impressive you do everything yourself. priceless build that no shop could replicate for any money. Subscribed.

I have more experience replumbing and changing the designs of EJ cooling systems than I may have led you to believe. Big radiators in my experience (owning, working and collaborating on dozens of EJ time attack cars) only delay how long it takes to overheat. A 'good' time attack EJ sees 210-220F ECT after 5- 10 minutes in 90F temps. Most hit 230F. Anything above 200F reduces engine reliability and risks ringland failure. Above 225F reduces headgasket life. Very common to see pistons overexpanding and scuffing cylinder walls on track EJs with stock pistons. There is a heat problem. With just a few simple plumbing changes and relocating the thermostat, I can keep ECT under 200F on track cars even with stock radiators! Better than any other cooling system I've worked on. Plus it keeps coolant much more stable which is important for piston ring wear. High HP stock engine builds should be running low ECT of 180F. It makes it more reliable. I can cite examples. I haven't been able to find how WRC cars plumb their cooling systems or where they keep the thermostat. Mind sharing if you know anything? Size of the radiator only helps because it's increasing coolant capacity and lessening the effect of the bypassing coolant (which cylinder 4 mod increases this volume thus adding to the issue). Did you know the hottest coolant in the car (exiting the turbo) never reaches the radiator? Or the heater core? Or the oil cooler? Now add the cylinder 4 mod and you'll see where I'm going ... My hypothesis was redirecting this coolant to the radiator would work better (but requires relocating the thermostat). I believe emissions reasons forced Subaru to choose the cooling system design that it did. Runs hotter and improves emissions. The EJ is very interesting considering how old the engine design is yet it somehow managed to survive decades of tougher emissions controls that BMW and VW had to literally cheat to get around. I think this lends to some of the reliability issues. They get too hot and unless you're monitoring ECT separately, you wouldn't know it either (stock gauge is useless). My design I've implemented on two cars was incredible. Coolant never exceeded 200F despite a downsized rad with only one fan. Even in 110F traffic with AC on. OEM oil cooler worked so well it mitigated the need for an oil cooler for a street and weekend track car. Stock oil pan too. Tl;dr cyl4 mod is helpful in balancing ect between cylinders, but it also adds to the underlying issue that EJ cooling systems have too much coolant bypassing the radiator. Relocating bypass lines to the rad and relocating thermostat makes more stable ECT that doesn't climb over 200F without changes to the rad or water pump. Improves reliability and improves OEM oil cooler greatly for less than the cost of a koyo radiator.

Because cooling systems aren't so simple. Too much flow can impede cooling. People trust that the Subaru engineers didn't overlook this mod, especially since they already produce all the parts to make it. Likely answer seems to be increased knock control. Maybe has some emissions benefit as well. This will always be up for debate and is anyone's guess. I chose to do this mod personally. Id be curious to see what WRC cars did.

couldn't agree more. I love my Outback 3.6R. 3900lbs. 8.8" ground clearance. 26MPG! Handling far exceeded my expectations. Definitely can feel how much heavier the EZ engines are over EJ's. EZ swapped GC/GF with JDM STI 5 speed make for a >3000lb car that's very capable. EZ30 spec B RHD Legacy wagons with 6MT were $2000 in Japan auctions 2 years ago I wanted to import one and supercharge it.

Absolutely. Probably the best Toyota sports car ever made. So far proving to be reliable powerful and fun. Reviews seem to match my expectations however; an STI is a more fun and confidence inspiring car due to the nature of its symmetrical drivetrain.

I wouldn't be sad. These new engines are dull and boring. Low red line. Way too heavy. The older stuff is better and honestly it's incredible the 2021 STI still had an EJ engine in it (which for racing purposes is a way better engine). Sucks North America got turd engines that failed often and a shame people kept waiting for a better one when swapping in a JDM STI engine was always available. STI went out well with the S209 sporting an EJ imo. World is going electric anyways. Solterra STI now set to replace it. Yes EV has no soul and Tesla's are boring after a short time. That's why GD and older subarus are skyrocketing in value. But I don't see gasoline powered subaru street cars being daily drivers. For godsakes they want to ban meat, you think they'll let you run a fossil fuel burning vehicle on the road? They're destined for museums, collectors, track events, car shows etc. Seems obvious to me that oil and natural gas wealth of the West is disappearing to China, who is starving for energy to grow into the new world order. No stopping it. Most Western countries don't have an electric grid to even support electric cars for everybody anyways. I don't think we're all going to have our own cars, that's why Uber, Apple, Tesla, Google, GM are all trying to create autonomous electric taxi's. Simple makes sense for efficiency for a vehicle to be operating 24/7 and just rent what you need from it. No more insurance, scams, injuries etc. No more mechanics, collision repair shops, insurance, physio, health bills; this will massively effect the economy that we're used to. However, neither do I see electric cars being reliable in an uncertain future in this sun spot cycle that is seeing increasing CME's coupled with our Earths weakening magnetic field. We're overdue for another Carrington event which would make your battery powered car potentially a fire hazard or even explode. We're living in really uncertain times and whether Subaru cancelled a bloated, heavy and boring STI should be of no importance, especially when they built 30 years of better sports cars. Subaru did the right thing.

Hey if anyone is interested in fully built cylinder heads for their 2.5GT or 2.5XT check it out: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=46717112#post46717112

Anyone can confirm USDM fenders will work with JDM hood lights and bumper (+rebar)

That helps a bit thanks for sharing.

My front end is destroyed on my '13 USDM Outback. Looking to buy a 2010-2012 JDM Legacy front clip. Any ideas if the headlights are plug and play (JDM are HID, mine are not). Will I be able to use outback fenders or not.

I thought 5th gen headlights, hood and fenders are the same. Just different bumpers?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164551869770 Or just buy mine instead

Just call or email them. These businesses have containers arriving every couple months and they'll know what is on them.

Sometimes I wonder if I haven't sold my front clip because I'm meant to finish this legacy build... I'm constructing a bakery and only parted out my car to help fund it. New owner has a 05 LGT sedan in GA and will be running my JDM dual AVCS U20 legacy heads that are ported with Kelford cams, upgraded springs, retainers, v10 ej207 built shortblock, arp625+ on e85 and a precision 6262. Redline 9000RPM. He's got 90% of my Legacy build in his car. Pics of the motor build https://imgur.com/a/XXo5biE

Nothing moved past the drawing board but you can call PST; I think they have made it before.

Originally a 5MT SWP wagon, no sunroof. Originally owned by LGT forum member PhilT. I purchased it from him in 2017 with a 04 STI 6MT + brembos, avo 420 + avo fmic. I refuse to send the shell to its demise. I'll hang onto it if I have to. I'll donate it to someone if they don't ruin it.

That was a great video. I am hesitant on his cam shaft choice, interested to see the results. I'm quite amazed Subaru has built up such a bad reputation with their engines when the JDM EJ207 is arguably the greatest JDM engine ever made. I've pushed plenty of these into the 125-130mph and 10s 1/4s with no problems. Stock headgaskets and headstuds too! I don't see the need to build engines unless it's a racecar. Break in a factory shortblock and you'll find almost no metallic bits in your oil on break in. On a built motor, it's glitter coming out for first 3-4 changes. I think this contributes to the shortened life of a built motor.

Nope, I was the one doing the 5x114 STI swap. I got a clean shell left but no brakes, driver train or related parts left. Just shell, exterior stuff and full interior.

eBay link to a rare 3.0R front clip. I can include JDM wagon rear bumper + all 4 spats. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164551869770 Fujitsubo Exhaust https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=46526009#post46526009

I got a set of OEM JDM spats and JDM facelift hid 3.0R premium clip + specB honeycomb grille and oem STI front lip all for sale if anyone's interested pm me..

Hey guys I'm selling my 3.0R premium front clip with HID, OEM matching STI lip and specB grille. It's in great shape and requires no body work. Includes the crash beam, foam and all the bits. PM me if you're interested. https://imgur.com/a/QFgfEgk

Yes cutting would be necessary. That's why I designed my own FMIC kit. I don't like TMIC for efficiency, the front end lift it creates and reduced radiator efficiency through pressurizing the engine bay. I don't like the FMIC kits because of the lag created by the ridiculous length of piping (i.e. 3" 90* bend is equal to 7.5ft of straight piping). FMIC cores have more pressure drop which is significant if you're running pump gas or pushing the efficiency range of the turbo. I designed a better intercooler setup with a lot less piping and bends. This allows for 2.5" piping for both hot and cold side. 63% less piping than the ETS. TMIC response with better than FMIC performance. Retains the factory crash beam and condenser too. I have a prototype car currently in development (since I won't be doing it on mine anymore). I'll be posting the results. I'm filing provisional patents and will be selling this kit.

I wouldn't dare cut into the bumper. All the shrouds, multiple foam bits and clips are all their and work wonderful. I custom made a front mount that keeps the factory crash beam and condenser. Also reduces intercooler piping by 63% and uses a vertical flow design which, drastically improves efficiency through almost no pressure drop.