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Hella Supertone Install Walk Through w/ pics


j.reed

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I installed a set yesterday on my ride with the subimods bracket. Absolutely fantastic! I used the relay - figured it couldn't hurt along with the wiring harness subimods sells. The horns sound much better in person than any of the you tube videos - and a million times louder. Absolutely love 'em! Now if I can only find a nice peaceful retirement home to test them out in - or maybe a nursery.

 

(Just kidding)

 

I left them the hella red color and IMHO, they look great behind the mesh grill.

 

I am tempted to try and find a diesel train horn system to install - saw several of them on you tube. That looks like fun, too.

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Installed Subimods bracket and Hella horns behind stock grill. Yes there was some vibration at first so I stuck my fat fingers through the grill and pushed back gently. I would say about 2-3mm that is all. No vibration after that and it looks factory not like I used an old metal shelf brace. :lol::lol:

“Abandon hope, all ye who enter here”

-Dante Alighieri

 

http://youtu.be/lLFunBPgPOo

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Well I want to make about a 9 month review here. The other day I popped the hood and finally zip tied up the power wire going to my hella's and they worked fine. Two days later they stopped working. Today I took the up bumper skin off and rewired the whole thing and now they work again. Probably was some odd fluke but who knows. I'm going to pull the horns out again and paint them as they are showing some rust behind the screws. Other then that I love my hella horns :)

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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  • 4 weeks later...

I found it really helpful. I also purchased the wire harness with the kit. The only thing that is not included is an inline fuse. I'm going to look at whether I can plug into the fuse box in the engine compartment or if I'll need to just run an inline fuse.

 

I love the horns, BTW. They sound great. Muuuuuuuuch louder than stock.

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Just got my supertones today....going to blast the grilles and paint them flat black and switch out the screws for stainless steel screws and use aluminum bar for brackets.

 

A few questions...

1. How do I know what wire going to the stock horns to tap? I plan on using a connection that folds over the original wire and taps in to it. I think it is a vampire something or other.

2. What can I use to make the relay watertight besides placing it in a dry spot?

3. What are the details of installing an inline fuse?

 

Thanks for the help in advance. It will take a week to get the grilles back but I want to be ready when I get them back.

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The horns use a single wire. It grounds itself through the bracket. I modified a 1/4" spade terminal and just plugged it into the car-harness. Then used a female terminal and grounded the relays through the factory horn. Works like a charm. I have 4 supertones, and my two factory horns still work.

 

I am going to run another 4 horns whenever I get around to ordering another few sets of Supertones. I also want to get a pair for my wifes car.

 

Use dielectric grease to keep the relays in good shape.

 

No details to install the fuse. Just install it inline, close to the battery terminal.

 

I'm going to redo all the wiring when I get the new horns. I'm going to run an individual relay for each pair, and I'm going to organize things a little more neatly.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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You can by a great harness at a low price from Subimods that includes the relay if needed. Much easier then making your own and without the risk.

 

Scroll down to buy the harness:

http://www.subimods.com/subimods-com-hella-supertone-horns-bracket-02-07-wrx-sti.html?sitenameid=0473fc058993d193da7cf16d8fa80fee

“Abandon hope, all ye who enter here”

-Dante Alighieri

 

http://youtu.be/lLFunBPgPOo

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What gauge wire is going to the stock horn? I have new 12 gauge for the Hellas and the splice tap is for 10-12 gauge wire. I hope it will work or I will have to get lighter wire I guess.
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Do I need a crimping tool or can I use pliers to squeeze the connections to the wire?

 

Just a pair of dikes or pliars will do the trick if you're using vampire splices.

 

What gauge wire is going to the stock horn? I have new 12 gauge for the Hellas and the splice tap is for 10-12 gauge wire. I hope it will work or I will have to get lighter wire I guess.

 

The stock horns look to me like either 16g or 18g S/O. If you look on the prior page I posted a list of everything you need for a successful install.

 

A 10-12g vampire splice won't work well, you want to get a 12-16 or 14-18 splice.

Winning the internet

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  • 1 month later...
I used them on the stock wiring for a year and no issues. A relay is helpful (more output possibly), but not necessary for just a pair. Running four...you will need one.

 

So you just used the original wire harness, I am looking for the cleanest install.

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You guys realize how much current Hellas draw, right? A single pair can draw 12 amps. Using 16 or 18g wire for supertones is REALLY pushing the limit.

 

When I do my octa-install, I'm going to use 8 or 10 gauge wire.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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You guys realize how much current Hellas draw, right? A single pair can draw 12 amps. Using 16 or 18g wire for supertones is REALLY pushing the limit.

 

When I do my octa-install, I'm going to use 8 or 10 gauge wire.

 

nonsense, It's not like you're pulling this load over a huge distance, and at most we're talking 11 amps for short bursts of time.

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Got bored yesterday and repainted my horns for the 5th time. Now they are DGM. Also replaced the SS screws for new SS screws cause the old ones had some rust on them.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/DSC_3250.jpg

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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nonsense, It's not like you're pulling this load over a huge distance, and at most we're talking 11 amps for short bursts of time.

 

According to my multimeter, they draw almost 6 amps each. Thats 12 amps per pair... for the entire duration of a horn blast... and you ARE pulling that load over a distance of ~3 feet or so.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Right. 12 amps is nothing. I forgot. Carry on with vampire taps.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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no one said to pull current off the stocker plugs, infact, if you go back a few posts I said not to, the whole point is to relay it, but saying that 14, 16, or 18g wire isn't enough for 12 amps over less than 3 feet is just nonsense.

Winning the internet

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Wiring the positive trigger on the relay to the stockers is fine, it works great, wiring directly to the stocker plugs will probably cause you the occasional blown horn fuse.

Winning the internet

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Fuses are there to protect the wire. Uping the size of the fuse will allow a higher amp to go through the wire, but this leads to more heat which in turns helps break down the insulation on the wire and weaken the connections over time. I recommend against doing this but its your car and you can do what you want.

 

(electrician by trade)

 

 

 

I really should redo my horns and had a relay to it. Though its been fine for a year but I hardly use my horns.

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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