xt2005bonbon Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 Yeah. I hate these bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 Back to stock suspension and wheels. Before: After: Insuring it as a fourth car has made it quite a bit less urgent to sell it. ~$30/mo. I'm thinking we'll use it through the snowboarding season. I don't have roof rails for the snowboard racks for the new car, or a mud matt for the hatch, or chains. The OB is ready to rock. And it comes prescratched and less concern over "newness". Added air to the spare. It was at 20psi, when 60psi is recommended! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Wild difference. Whereas now I'm contiplating to keep mine and drop it haha. I owe about 6 with only 95k on it. Might lower it and put some sti wheels on it for a daily keep 2 rigs. Truck for truck things which the outback can do some. Too many things running in my head all the time lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) OIL change discovery yesterday evening. Passnger side from mount point for the belly pan was pushed (hit a rock on the fire road this summer) punched the mount point sheet metal to the point of tearing out the back half and up about .5 to .75"... I'll be using a slide hammer and will have to tickty tacky it back together. I do like the studs and had a fender washer tacked to the crossover sheet metal under the radiator. Unfortunatly I will need to help my friend clear his garage so I can get in there for the welder and lift. Pan left off for now and using the Tacoma. I did have some fun with a new GTi trying to keep up on the back roads. Kept leaving him each time we slowed for a stop sign. Made me giggle he was clearly trying to keep up with me shifting at 5K. Time for a new steering pump. It's puking all over the passenger side. Edited December 16, 2019 by kzr750r1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 Finally got some time last night (after putting the kids to bed) to mate the trans to the engine. Man, felt like a huge accomplishment . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Starred at the ebay page for like 15mn last night, while hesitating to press the 'buy it now' button (you know that feeling?). I finally gave up and hit it. Bought meself a type RA SB. I am part of a cool club now , with $2K less in our bank account. At least, I got 100$ in ebay bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Meaning the new short block in the sti type ra yes? I keep seeing talk about that and I guess if you needed a new block sure, but it doesn't really seem all that great to me. I'd think if you wanted a built engine you'd get something from iag. What's your plan and why is everyone so excited about the ra block? It seems like it might have slightly stronger pistons but no one seems to be able to confirm anything last I checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Only diff from the 'regular' EJ257 are the pistons. Slightly different design. That's it. I went that route because it is for the family car. So it is a cost effective solution (essentially same price as the regular EJ257). So why not. In addition, I do not want to deal with forged pistons, which may prematurely increase wear to the cylinder walls (i.e. rebuild in 100K or so). I will tune that sucker well and be done with it. I did originally consider the IAG block, but did not go that route for the above reason and $$$, even though they are somewhat local to me. Remember: I have to buy diapers still Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Yea that makes sense. I've got the 255 with the slightly different piston dish so I forget that for some people it's a direct swap and not really any more money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 Santa came a day early! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 She's a pretty... No dragon scale on the block and the nitride coated crank goodness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Fixed 4 wires in my hatch. Backup lights work again and the hatch locks / unlocks. Not sure what the other 2 wires did. But they are reconnected. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Maybe these wires are for the wiper motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 I've been meaning to get to the hatch wires, but have been waiting for more stuff to go out before I go in there. So far, it's just my radio antenna and the rear interior light. Maybe it's time... Did you use any walkthroughs or anything with pictures you could link to? It seems easy enough, but I always like to find pics before I remove any panels I haven done before so I know what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 I never posted that I finally finished reinstalling the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate on the 06 around Christmas. No shutter or anything. Runs fine so far. So I guess I did an OK job . 2nd clutch job I did now. I had to invest in a tap and die kit. I went all out and got a gearwrench set (200$+). Was able to clean out several bolt threads so I could reuse the OEM bolts (e.g. driveshaft bolts, shock bolts, etc...). Also had to tap a hole on a strut body. I have to say, now I won't fear a broken bolt as much. Awesome kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 I've been meaning to get to the hatch wires' date=' but have been waiting for more stuff to go out before I go in there. So far, it's just my radio antenna and the rear interior light. Maybe it's time... Did you use any walkthroughs or anything with pictures you could link to? It seems easy enough, but I always like to find pics before I remove any panels I haven done before so I know what to expect.[/quote'] One of my broken wires may have been my radio antenna it seems to be working. 1. Open your hatch 2. look at the rubber boots on the upper left and right side of the hatch. 3. Pry up rubber boot (accidentally break three weakened wires in the process) 4. use wire nuts (or probably something smarter, but it's what I had on had) and extra wire to repair the broken wires by adding in a small length of wire (I used wire from my 02 sensor that needed to be replaced). 5. yay. Note: everything is far more fiddly then the above reflects. there are probably better choices for those connections than wire nuts, but that's what I had and it was easy (and easy to do again if it turns out to be a problem). My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 And IIRC, slightly dropping the headliner may help you as well to repair the wires. It is not necessary but might help if you get stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Thanks guys! I actually did just that this past weekend. The wires on the R side (passenger side) were all actually fine. On the L side (driver side), there were two black wires. So I repaired them, and now my radio picks up stations again! But the light was still acting up. I pulled the actual light housing out of the headliner, and cleaned the switch - there was a lot of gunk in the contacts. So now I can use the light if I manually turn it on, which is a step in the right direction. So I looked at the latch and was playing with the "door open" sensor, which seems to be part of the latch. I sprayed it down with a full can of brake cleaner, and then sprayed it with a penetrating lube. It was working very smoothly at this point, but the "door open" signal was only triggering when I held the handle from the outside. That meant that the light would be on when I opened the door, but as soon as I would let go of the tailgate to let it swing up, the light would go out. Upon closer inspection, the large white plastic latch had a crack in it, and I suspect it was bending itself out of position. So that's good enough for me, I'll just manually turn on and off the light in the trunk when I need it. But thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyr13 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 My spec b trans with 60k miles gave up last month. That picture of the bellhousing is what really did me in. The clutch pedal went straight to the floor one day while driving and could not get it to return. Thinking it was the clutch cylinder, ended up dropping the trans and found those pieces. It got shipped out to ZF design in Colorado. He did a full tear down, sonic clean and inspection. Turns out front and center diff we’re toast. As well as heavily worn drive gears 1 & 2 as well as 4 & 5. Replaced all synchros and upgraded 1-2 fork and 3-4 fork to steel. While in there I opted for ap racing suretrac front diff and upgrading the viscous center from 4kg to 6kg. I decided with all this work and effort might as well get a freshly rebuilt rear diff as well. r180 with an ap racing suretrac got tacked onto the order. I just got tracking confirmation yesterday that it’ll be back home next Wednesday. This is the longest I’ve been without my obxt since the motor popped 2years ago. Going through all this hassle has only solidified my love for this car even more. Many many times over the last month I considered a full part out to try to recoup. But getting a new car is weak and not many people go as far as I have into keeping a bp5 alive longer than it probably should. But at the end of the day I still want to full send in less than ideal road conditions so I couldn’t sellout and get anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Oh man is what broke what holds the clutch fork in place? Sounds like it was time for a rebuild anyway though. Glad you're keeping it running. I think our wagons are excellent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 holy cows!!! I hope that's an extremely rare failure mode. Props to you for not giving up! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Finally got around to replacing the reverse light gaskets. I wish there was a cool led light replacement. I like the way the jdm reverse/fog light looks but it's weird that there isn't a matching one. Hopefully no more leaking now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Replaced 6th O2 sensor in my OBXT today. Got nearly 10k miles out of this one! O2 saga link: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5773620&postcount=247 So easy at stock height! I can actually use my creeper, instead of lying on the ground. Look at that access! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Finally got around to replacing the reverse light gaskets. I wish there was a cool led light replacement. I like the way the jdm reverse/fog light looks but it's weird that there isn't a matching one. Hopefully no more leaking now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk When you say "cool" do you mean one that emits cooler (temperature if it were K's) than the one below? Or do you mean "cool" as in one that looks way better than the one below? *OEM (driver's side) vs. LED (passenger's side)* MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Haha cool as in style not color temperature. I really like the way this looks https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/jjEAAOSwQK1ZzPWS/$/Jdm-Subaru-Legacy-Wagon-Bp5-Tail-Gate-Center-_1.jpg But the edm and jdm reverse lights on the driver side are the same as our usdm ones. I think it'd be neat to have an led panel light set or something. I'll likely change it out to led bulbs down the road though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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