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What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3


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Did an oil change with Mobil1 - Extended Performance and immediately noticed the engine is a bit quieter. Really like it so far, but we'll see how it is over time.

 

I change mine a week ago with the same oil and yes it did made engine much quieter and runs smoother..I wonder what oil my dealer was using during my 2 year promotional oil change:/

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Did an oil change with Mobil1 - Extended Performance and immediately noticed the engine is a bit quieter. Really like it so far, but we'll see how it is over time.

 

hmm noted. I haven't had my Legacy long enough to need an oil change. but will def keep this in mind. How easy is it to access the filter?

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Just notice the M-D light stopped working,anyone had this replace under warranty?

 

not under warranty but replaced. needs new circuit board with led included. updated style. runs about 80 bucks to buy part online. search the forums. the part number is listed.

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not under warranty but replaced. needs new circuit board with led included. updated style. runs about 80 bucks to buy part online. search the forums. the part number is listed.

 

Thanks,ya I found the part # on the forum,I’ll probably try re-solder all connections on the board first before ordering new ones.

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Thanks,ya I found the part # on the forum,I’ll probably try re-solder all connections on the board first before ordering new ones.

 

Take a before and after pic of the board, if you can show enough detail of the failed circuit location. If you can re-solder a connection where the previous solder overheated and melted away, that would be great!

 

My mother-in-law was ready to get a new dryer after hers stopped working. I Googled the code it was throwing and it said that the equivalent of the motherboard needed to be replaced for big bucks. I was able to pull it, find the melted soldered connection and re-solder it in a few minutes. My soldering skills suck, compared to when I first learned more than a decade ago, since I haven't had do much soldering since then, but I got the job done! It has been more than six months with the repair still holding!

 

Note: it took me a few times to get the solder to create a good connection. My first several attempts resulted in open-circuits or high-resistance connections, which would likely have over-heated and failed again. I measured continuity from one side of the soldered connection to the opposite side to determine when the connection was good enough (< 5 ohms is good, but for such a small circuit I shot for as close to zero as possible). It took way more solder than likely needed, but it worked.

Edited by gathermewool

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Take a before and after pic of the board, if you can show enough detail of the failed circuit location. If you can re-solder a connection where the previous solder overheated and melted away, that would be great!

 

My mother-in-law was ready to get a new dryer after hers stopped working. I Googled the code it was throwing and it said that the equivalent of the motherboard needed to be replaced for big bucks. I was able to pull it, find the melted soldered connection and re-solder it in a few minutes. My soldering skills suck, compared to when I first learned more than a decade ago, since I haven't had do much soldering since then, but I got the job done! It has been more than six months with the repair still holding!

 

Note: it took me a few times to get the solder to create a good connection. My first several attempts resulted in open-circuits or high-resistance connections, which would likely have over-heated and failed again. I measured continuity from one side of the soldered connection to the opposite side to determine when the connection was good enough (< 5 ohms is good, but for such a small circuit I shot for as close to zero as possible). It took way more solder than likely needed, but it worked.

Yes I will take pics when I get a chance to work on it this week.

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I measured continuity from one side of the soldered connection to the opposite side to determine when the connection was good enough (< 5 ohms is good, but for such a small circuit I shot for as close to zero as possible).

If the resistance of a soldered electrical connection is measurable at all (~milliohms), it's not properly soldered. Usually the two biggest impediments to a properly soldered electrical connection are: 1) dirty and/or oxidized metals being joined, and/or 2) poor technique (improper fluxing, too little or too much heat, etc.). The breakthrough for me on proper technique was a short book, SOLDER ... its Fundamentals and Usage, published 60 years ago by Kester Solder.

Edited by ammcinnis

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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If the resistance of a soldered electrical connection is measurable at all (~milliohms), it's not properly soldered. Usually the two biggest impediments to a properly soldered electrical connection are: 1) dirty and/or oxidized metals being joined, and/or 2) poor technique (improper fluxing, too little or too much heat, etc.). The breakthrough for me on proper technique was a short book, SOLDER ... its Fundamentals and Usage, published 60 years ago by Kester Solder.

 

Yea, sorry, I can't recall if our go no-go is 5 ohms or 0.5 ohm, which is related to continuity checks on longer runs of wiring (one end of cable to ground to other end of cable), not circuit checks. The problem with my continuity checks, was that my probes were too larger to get a good read. I had to poke and move the probes around a bit and look on my DMM for the lowest value as I did that.

 

What you say makes sense, though, since the check was across a very low run of circuit, without any components in series. The only resistance should almost literally be just the soldered connection.

 

It had also been a while since I last soldered something that mattered, so my temperature control "muscle" memory was way off! I was either melting too much of the lead or having it stick too soon. I eventually got what worked, but it was by no means of professional quality. It reminded me of how poorly I do at overhead stick-welding! I used to be pretty good at horizontal, OK at vertical, but always screwed up over-head welds, even with a helper, who would ensure I was using the right amperage.

 

I'll take a look at that book and see if I can get better, so the next time I don't

 

EDIT: the paperback of the book you referenced is only $4.49 with free shipping! Thanks!

Edited by gathermewool

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Yeah Noticed mine is out as well... Not worth 80 bucks to me.. I know when I'm in Drive.. but my question is taking apart the center console is it pretty easy?

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

It was super easy to do on my '97 Legacy GT and '08 STI, so I can't see why this would be more complicated.

 

It would be worth $80 to me, either, but it would bother me enough to pull the card and see if I could fix something, as is being discussed.

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Well about that time.. 98k and Change I went to another shiw and was cleaning the engune bay and noticed a couple cracks in my 3.6r Alternator Belt. Drove home picked one up today and 35 minutes later back on the road.. Super Easy for Beginner Mechanics.. e4ccd794ec6947f405f2ac243eb454e5.jpge64be3b096533b40586fe5bbb690320a.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Just ordered some DiodeDynamics' bulbs for the fogs and reverse lights. Pretty freaking expensive, but I'm hoping they're well-made and will last a long time, compared to Ebay specials.

 

I drive too much to take a chance.. Drivin from San Diego to Vegas for another show next week..

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Makes sense.

 

How many shows do you do a year, roughly?

 

How long will you keep your Leggy before it's either too old to show or you get tired of it?

 

Any plans for what you'll be getting next?

Edited by gathermewool

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Just ordered some DiodeDynamics' bulbs for the fogs and reverse lights. Pretty freaking expensive, but I'm hoping they're well-made and will last a long time, compared to Ebay specials.

 

DD bulbs are a high quality made and bright.

 

 

 

Makes sense.

 

How many shows do you do a year, roughly?

 

How long will you keep your Leggy before it's either too old to show or you get tired of it?

 

Any plans for what you'll be getting next?

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