Zee199969 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I replaced my puddle lights with these snazzy led ones in case I forget what kinda car I drive. But for real I didn't even know I had puddle lights cause the factory ones where so dull and housing was so oxidized. I saw these online and was like do I even have these. Have to get better pic on a flat surface with out all the leaves on the floor. Nice! Here's a shot of my L7 puddle lights My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I had to get those bushings replaced. Do it yourself if you're able and willing, it'll save you a lot. The other two sound like typical dealership BS trying to grasp at services they can get you to pay for. Mine once told me my steering rack needed to be replaced... It did not. I can do the repair but the problem is I don't have time anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Took it for the Airbag Recall for my 2013 Legacy. Now Subaru is saying I need the following repair: 1. Lower control arms due to split bushing and wheel alignment ($1,000) 2. Fuel injection cleaning due to condensate found on throttle body ($160) 3. Power Steering flush due to discolor ($180) I will get it on my friend lift this week or next week and inspect it myself. I know lower control arms is $100 each for OEM I already priced them. To me I think it's to early to replace the lower control arms. A power steering flush is easy to do if you any mechanical ability, especially with a 2.5i. Condensate on the throttle body, has nothing to do with fuel injector cleaning The rear pancake bushing will eventual tear and need replacement. DO you have clunking in the front end, did they find it during an alignment? How many miles are on your car? The lower control arms aren't too bad to do. It took me less the 2 hours to do, I sure don't see $750 of labor to R & R them and do an alignment. I would find a different shop. They are upselling items you don't need and overcharging for the services they are offering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spb Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Slowly researching low hanging fruit mods. Ordered: - Perrin solid shifter bushing + washer - Perrin shifter stop. Next: - Almost pulled a trigger on Perrin short throw shift adapter. And then I discovered the Boomba alternative... decisions. - RSB (whiteline 22mm) - Maybe koni shocks? - Maybe upgraded links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Slowly researching low hanging fruit mods. Ordered: - Perrin solid shifter bushing + washer - Perrin shifter stop. Next: - Almost pulled a trigger on Perrin short throw shift adapter. And then I discovered the Boomba alternative... decisions. - RSB (whiteline 22mm) - Maybe koni shocks? - Maybe upgraded links? all of those are solid mods. I jumped on the Perrin short shift adapter early and loved it, but if boomba came out with their weighted one earlier I would've gotten that one instead My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I can do the repair but the problem is I don't have time anymore. Man, I can so understand that. I almost let someone else change my oil last time. At least any shop other than a dealer should be more reasonable I would think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 all of those are solid mods. I jumped on the Perrin short shift adapter early and loved it, but if boomba came out with their weighted one earlier I would've gotten that one instead Agreed, good choices. I like my Boomba one a lot, and I like heavy shift knobs. I'm not sure that sway bar links are needed unless your stockers are failing. The aftermarket stiffer ones can be noisy, depending on the style, so keep that in mind. I went with Moog for both rears when one of my stockers failed and they've worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Nice! Here's a shot of my L7 puddle lights I miss the factory puddle lights on my old Outback (mounted in the rocker molding). They are pretty reasonable online. One of those "wants", but not a "need". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Slowly researching low hanging fruit mods. Ordered: - Perrin solid shifter bushing + washer - Perrin shifter stop. Did you order the 018 or 019 shifter stop? You may have issues with the 018 as a few had, even though it "works" according to Perrin. I ended up having to use the 019. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Took it for the Airbag Recall for my 2013 Legacy. Now Subaru is saying I need the following repair: 1. Lower control arms due to split bushing and wheel alignment ($1,000) 2. Fuel injection cleaning due to condensate found on throttle body ($160) 3. Power Steering flush due to discolor ($180) I will get it on my friend lift this week or next week and inspect it myself. I know lower control arms is $100 each for OEM I already priced them. To me I think it's to early to replace the lower control arms. I recently replaced my LCA's due to clunking from destroyed bushings. Ordered the Mevotechs from Rock Auto. $55 a piece and they come with the better bushing. Labor was about $200. I can't stand Subaru's service pricing. It's ridiculous. Edited November 5, 2018 by jojorios Had the wrong labor cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spb Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Hm. Ordered PSP-INR-018. Did not notice that Perrin website actually has options for this one. In the end ordered from Amazon. Am I going to be in trouble? Did you order the 018 or 019 shifter stop? You may have issues with the 018 as a few had, even though it "works" according to Perrin. I ended up having to use the 019. Edited November 5, 2018 by spb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I recently replaced my LCA's due to clunking from destroyed bushings. Ordered the Mevotechs from Rock Auto. $55 a piece and they come with the better bushing. Labor was about $200. I can't stand Subaru's service pricing. It's ridiculous.Jorge - Ive got otwo names for you... MelJohns Auto in Ridgewood... and Darek the Subaru master tech working there. Darek is my longtime friend, and here you wouldve saved $100-120 on labor. Added benefit, hes done it all on the 5th gens - from TMICs, turbos, starters, diffs, suspensions, inserts, engine overhauls, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Jorge - Ive got otwo names for you... MelJohns Auto in Ridgewood... and Darek the Subaru master tech working there. Darek is my longtime friend, and here you wouldve saved $100-120 on labor. Added benefit, hes done it all on the 5th gens - from TMICs, turbos, starters, diffs, suspensions, inserts, engine overhauls, etc.I'll definitely keep that in mind and save it in my contacts for anything in the future. But I had meant I got it done elsewhere, not subaru. The 1k they quoted Amusa is crazy. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Hm. Ordered PSP-INR-018. Did not notice that Perrin website actually has options for this one. In the end ordered from Amazon. Am I going to be in trouble? If you have the Subaru short shift unit installed, the shift lever (well - the reverse ring assembly) can ride up and over the -018 shift stop. The -019 doesn't have that issue (I initially had the -018, then bought the -019 after it was released - it definitely works as intended, whereas the -018 did not. The Perrin site indicates the standard shifter should be ok, but there has been at least one post on here where someone had the same issue with the standard unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I have the same issue on the standard shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillwill007 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 A power steering flush is easy to do if you any mechanical ability, especially with a 2.5i. Condensate on the throttle body, has nothing to do with fuel injector cleaning The rear pancake bushing will eventual tear and need replacement. DO you have clunking in the front end, did they find it during an alignment? How many miles are on your car? The lower control arms aren't too bad to do. It took me less the 2 hours to do, I sure don't see $750 of labor to R & R them and do an alignment. I would find a different shop. They are upselling items you don't need and overcharging for the services they are offering. Yeah dealership is ridiculous. They wanted to charge me $385 plus tax to replace my M.A.F. sensor on my intake. I bought the sensor for $85 plus shipping and took me longer to let car sit with battery disconnected for 5 minutes then it took me to unscrew 2 screws and unplug the the connector and swap out the sensor. Really $300 in labor for 2 screws and a connection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 A power steering flush is easy to do if you any mechanical ability, especially with a 2.5i. Condensate on the throttle body, has nothing to do with fuel injector cleaning The rear pancake bushing will eventual tear and need replacement. DO you have clunking in the front end, did they find it during an alignment? How many miles are on your car? The lower control arms aren't too bad to do. It took me less the 2 hours to do, I sure don't see $750 of labor to R & R them and do an alignment. I would find a different shop. They are upselling items you don't need and overcharging for the services they are offering. My Legacy has 97k miles. They found it during a free multiple point inspection. I did not hear any clunking up front. I'm going to get it on the lift and inspect it myself. Also need fuel injection cleaner for condensate on the TB is new to me also. The only way for a TB to condensate if weather changes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Man, I can so understand that. I almost let someone else change my oil last time. At least any shop other than a dealer should be more reasonable I would think. Thanks, Having a 3 month old son. I don't have the time like I used to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I have the same issue on the standard shifter. Same here. Perrin was convinced I had the STS, so they sent me a -019. It works great, but I'm still not convinced I have the STS. You will know pretty quick if it rides up. It seems to be a hit or miss with our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Simple oil change. Motul and the Mazda filter... nothing new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 My Legacy has 97k miles. They found it during a free multiple point inspection. I did not hear any clunking up front. I'm going to get it on the lift and inspect it myself. Almost of our cars have ripped rear pancake bushing in the front LCA's, but most of them aren't ripped all the way through. Yours might be fine with 97k miles, but eventually it will fail. I have seen owners with 30K claim that their are already ripping. The Poly Whiteline ones on my GT (the prior owner installed) had some rips at 35k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 ^Pancakes suck, replaced mine at 40k km (25k miles). Do the solid rubber pancakes on the Mevotech arms last longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Changed the oil last night and installed the Fumoto valve. I mistakenly over filled the oil (1st time ever) and had to drain a bit. The valve came in very handy for that. Also tried the 3d printed filter wrench/funnel and it is a great concept, but need a little bit of tweaking. (The red sealant was from before I got the car. It didn't affect the washer on the valve) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 ^Pancakes suck, replaced mine at 40k km (25k miles). Do the solid rubber pancakes on the Mevotech arms last longer? I would imagine they would. The 2 piece poly pancake bushings seem ideal for extending the life, but who knows if they actually do. The factory control bushing even though they rip seem to last 100K+ miles before they cause problems on daily drivers. I would guess that autocross, track days and other type of racing would accelerate the demise of those bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillwill007 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Just changed my driver side cam sensor. Also cleaned off my battery terminals with the spray and battery tool since I took it out and added the little colored terminal washers. But now after that seems my auto up and down doesn't work on my driver side window Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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