mis08011 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 So I made the now infamous decision to change out my front drivers side wheel bearing. I’ve already snapped the lower caliper bracket bolt (repair still in progress) and now have a hub that is completely rusted to the dust screen/knuckle. It is completely free from the spindles. I’ve been constantly PBing it, hammered it, screwed in a couple bolts on the back to hammer, and slide hammered. The slide hammer completely split the hub, so now I know longer have bolts to work with. I’m desperate here, does anyone have any ideas? I can’t even take the easy route out since I’m not sure how I’d tow in it’s current state. I really appreciate any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Can you provide details on when you screwed in the bolts on the back to hammer? How far did you screw them in, what did you use to hammer them? Bottom line is, that's the correct approach, and it WILL come out that way if you apply the correct technique. It may help to post a pic of what you have left to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Torch time... or extreme heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 I’ll work on getting pictures if I can. I basically have the two lower 14mm screwed in less than half way. I’ve tried hammering them from the back, but nothing is budging. I’m debating the technique of using an extension bar and turning the wheel, but a little nervous and only think I have a leverage point for the one closer to the front of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Sounds like it might be easier at this point to replace the knuckle. BTW what front hub assemble did you buy ? https://www.google.com/search?q=front+steering+knuckle+2006+subaru+legacy&oq=front+steering+knuckle+2006+subaru+legacy&aqs=chrome..69i57.23207j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 That pinch bolt can be a PITA. Have you tried hitting the hub from the side to spin it ? Looks like you the axle pushed back a little. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Chisel around the edges? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 It's just rust holding it in at this point. My left rear was a PITA at the same point your at, let the PB do its thing, go have lunch and come back. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 Max, I bought a Timken HA590315 assembly. Really trying to avoid the knuckle replacement since I’m sure I’ll have difficulty getting that stuff apart and I’ve had past difficulties reattaching my strut. As for as chiseling, I’ve been going at it where I can. Should I just slaughter the dust plate and go at it all over? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshole Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 I had this problem and ended up taking my knuckle/hub assembly as a unit to a guy with a hydraulic press who then pressed the hub assembly out of the knuckle and pressed the new hub assembly in. Torch, hammer, slide hammer, hub puller, brute force... it won't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Timken is a good brand, have that in my left front on the wagon. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Perfect pics, thanks. First, you need to screw the bolts much farther in, for two reasons. 1 - when they're that shallow, any serious hammering will destroy the threads, which of course only matters if you want to keep the bolts. 2 - firmer seating in the threads makes for more effective force transfer. So thread them in to 3-5 mm from the back of the knuckle. Second, put the bolts in catty corner so you can keep the bearing straight when walking it out. Third, you didn't say what you hit them with. The proper tool for this job is an air hammer, $10 from Harbor Freight. It's possible but much more difficult and dangerous to use an engineer's hammer with a super-long punch. A few seconds with the air hammer will break the rust. Then alternate hammer taps with backing the bolts out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mis08011 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 Yeah, followed one of your other posts suggesting that brand. I’ve been soaking it in PB for the last 3 days in between my holiday/frustration drinking. Looks like I’m about to throw in the towel for a tow, then I can add sad drinking to the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhody Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 If you have a Dremel or angle grinder you could try to cut the rust around the the bearing housing and allow the PB and chisel to get in deeper. You could also make a groove to get a chisel/pry bar in there for more leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Yea, your going to have to get that seam to be a little more open so the PB can get in from the outside. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsizer89 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 air hammer is you best bet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzAvi8r Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 if you have air, not only would i suggest the air hammer, but also take a burr to some of the rust. it's a bit time consuming, but prevents throwing more money at the problem when you can salvage your parts. edit: dont forget to wear some eye pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 I have a tool I made out of a very large pipe union that fits the knuckle perfectly from behind but you must remove the knuckle. Only way to get it out without damaging outer CV joint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Do you have any air tools if so you can try an air hammer on the sides or a sledge hammer or using an old brake rotor. If you have new bolts you can try using old bolts and hit them from the other side. If you have a grinder or wire wheel try to clean up any rust you can. If using a hammer make sure you are using jack stands and watching that car is not going to fall off and hurt/kill/etc you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Slide hammer with axle puller attachment. Use the bolts for the hub assembly to attach the axle puller to the other side of the hub assembly and slide hammer away. edit: see below to rmoore5's post (#22). That's the most effective way, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11boostedgt Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 I have used air hammers with a chisel on it around the bearing. It’s never let me down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 used this method: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5132909&postcount=156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 I had a similar problem with the front wheel bearing on my 99 Dodge Ram. I ended up using the loosened bolts with a socket and extension to push the bearing out of the knuckle. Long socket extension wedged onto the axle bracket and starting & turning the wheel popped it loose quickly. Air hammer on the loosened bolt heads would probably work pretty well too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phate Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 In this situation, my preferred method is just to bring the knuckle to a shop, pay them $20-30, and be all set. I also usually remove ball joints this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Definitely try an air hammer. I think they’re like $15 at Walmart. Also, ditch the PB blaster and go for a 50/50 transmission fluid and acetone mix. Put in a bottle shake it up and spray the hell out of it. I’ve never seen anything it couldn’t break. It’s broken loose alignment bolts that shops couldn’t. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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