2006 Subaru Legacy Gt Build

[Mosubi]

So it turns out to be the clutch fork was shot.

It had a hole through a pivot point.

 

I was able to install a new one and I put my clutch in while I was at it as well as new throwout and pilot.

 

My entire engagement system has been replaced and now I’m just taking my time with the car so I can break in the clutch.

 

I also replaced my ballpoints and the car rides so much smoother!

I’m going to do cv axles in the next few days.

 

I’m curious as to if anyone has an install on an external wastegate with the vf52?

 

Car sounds super healthy. I’m gonna clean up extra wiring crap that’s there from the shitty gauges and then I’m gonna shorten some vacuum hoses that are unnecessary long. Then I’m planning to recut my rotors on tueseday after my final as well as install my new radio and Jdm piece.

 

I also picked up a Nardi that I’m gonna rewrap in a month when I have some more cash.

 

Super excited. I got a check engine light after my car came back from the smog guy which sketches me the hell out. I’m gonna run my AP in it tueseday as well and see what’s ups

 

Hoping to wire my trunk wires and check the fuse that has to do with the small interior lights and key fob so I can get the utility of my trunk. Photo shoot coming soon!

[Max Capacity]

CV axles, I recommend you rebuild the ones you have if they are still OEM. Little more work then replacing but you know you have the correct axles.

 

Some after market are a little to long, or short. I'm on my 3rd left front. Right front was rebooted and has almost 250,000 miles. Rears have never been touched.

[TickerPyro]

I've never heard of the actual throw out bearing or the hinge having problems so by all means, I'm praying that this isnt the issue because I need the car done ASAP and my friend whos doing the clutch for me doesnt have much time either. Being a college student involved in cars isnt always the best idea I suppose but oh well.

 

I'll let you know what happens with the clutch without a doubt. It's a stage 2 southbend that's currently in there. Pretty good piece of work.

 

I'll surely let him know for the grease. This isn't our first clutch so I'm sure overall, things should be alright but we'll see what ends up happening.

 

You said you had never heard of a fork hinge having an issue.... Now you have =). When it goes to shit, it cant be very may things.

 

An EWG on a 52 is kinda pointless unless someine welded yours shut. You are going to have to do a bunch of work for not much in return. Why do you want to go this route?

 

One thing i will suggest is a rear sway bar that is about 2-3x thicker if you do like to drive and want firm. The stock ones can be bent by hand when off a car.

[Mosubi]

CV axles, I recommend you rebuild the ones you have if they are still OEM. Little more work then replacing but you know you have the correct axles.

 

Some after market are a little to long, or short. I'm on my 3rd left front. Right front was rebooted and has almost 250,000 miles. Rears have never been touched.

 

As far as the axle itself, it's perfectly fine but I just need to replace the boot so I was thinking of using the aftermarket universal boots.

Any thoughts on this?

 

As far as the EWG, I already have a good setup so I figured why not keep it.

I also have a grimmspeed bracket to keep the internal wastegate closed so you don't have to weld anything.

 

The car sometimes wont start but i popped the hood and everything was fine.

I'm assuming a bad ground to the battery or something along those lines.

 

Another issue I'm having is that I was driving on low gas unfortunately and I believe something got into my fuel system because my car was lacking power from 2-3k but after 3k it was a bit better.

 

I've seafoamed my tank and it has helped quiet a bit but I want feedback if this is a common problem?

 

The car is doing great besides two more issues.

 

I have a mean power steering leak somewhere but I don't wanna say it's the pump. When I look in the engine bay, I can't find much flood but I think it could be leaking from the rack and pinion?

 

Any feedback on this?

 

Another issue I have is that the trans makes a ton of noise because this car was originally auto. I've purchase the manual foam piece but I'm not sure how to install it. Does anyone have pictures?

 

I love the legacy gt life.

Really excited to get the vf52 and tune going. Car should be amazing at that point.

 

ONE MORE THING. Have any of you ran an aftermarket steering wheel?

I have a nardi im putting into the car but I just don't know how the horn setup works exactly so I just wanted some feedback.

[Wasted Potential]

Power steering leak is common from back oring of line onto pump. I have had lines into the rack leak in other Subaru though.

 

Get OE boots for the CV. They cost more than a cheap CV but will last longer. I can't remember which CV boot is longer (inner or outer), but you can use the longer one on both ends and that allows for less strain on the boot in its bent rotation. Plus being thicker/longer it will have more ability to dissipate/attract heat.

 

Cheap OE on Heuberger Subaru in CO. Send Brian an email request or search for parts online.

 

For your low power comment, get an accessport or BtSsm or other software to log parameters to see fueling and ignition parameters to have a better idea. But my car pulled timing like a mofo the one time someone (fiancee) put 87 in it.

[Darth SpecB]

I'm in the same boat for a boot replacement. A previous owner thought it would be a good idea to leave the turbo heatshield off so now I'm looking for a new turbo blanket to keep underhood temps down. The smoking from the grease hitting the downpipe bothers me a lot. You can find a nice boot from Napa that comes with grease. I believe I paid around 30 bucks or so.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Max Capacity]

I replaced the PS rack back in 2012 because it was leaking. There is a U shaped crush washer on the side of the pump, check that too.

 

I guess you have cleaned and tighten the battery terminals.

 

I run my cars low on fuel and don't have any issues.

 

The 5mt's are known to be noisy, like a 1940's truck tranny.

[TickerPyro]

It is odd that the 05 5mt had a rattle to it yet the 06 5mt just shakes the shaft and boot inside the car on startup and idle. You would think that being in N the car wouldn't cause a ruckus, yet it still does.

I believe that you will need to bypass the P0240's Turbo Solenoid Pressure if you run the EWG just to give a heads up.

The cars always dog out at 2500-3200 on a stock tune. If you are not stock tune, i would bleed out the line at the rail and then pull injectors and clean em. Also, what are you running for a Fuel Pump?

And check the battery clamps for cracks my pos has cracked 2x on the opposite side of the screw.

[Mosubi]

So from what it seems, I’ll be getting a stock boot and I’ll do it in the coming weeks.

As far as the pump, I honestly haven’t had too much time to look into the leak and I can’t see much so I’ll be digging when I have more time as well. For now, it’s besrsble to fill it up because the leak isn’t to extreme.

 

The tranny does make a hell of a lot of noise but honestly, I got some more paddiding around my shifter and with a little bit of music, you can’t hesr much so that’s no longer an issue for me thankfully.

 

I did get the P0240 turbo code and now I need to know how to bypass it! Anything would help as the code is endless when I google it lol.

 

I just messaged Mike that max capacity recommended me to in order to get a tune sent to me. This seems like the most ideal thing for me and especially since the guy is already familiar with gt’s.

 

NOW TO A NEW PROBLEM. My car was driving fine but then at the 3k range, it was really being limited and it almost feels like the turbo is out? It’s making a completely different type of noise and although it spoils, it seems powerless. It almost seems like my inter cooker piping is loose or something but I checked it all and everything seems fine.

 

I’m going to check the vacuum system of the car soon and redo it because it seems the PO just put random crap to random places.

 

I’ve been using Castrol 10-40 and the car feels good with it so I’ll continue using that. I installed my ebrake boot so the interior is nearing an end. I have to checkups to wire my steering wheel controls because they never worked but I’m not sure it’ll matter because I still haven’t found it if my Sony xav100 is comparable with steering wheel controls.

 

I also removed some random crap in the engine bay. This was prior to the car having issues.

I’ll take pictures of everything in the next few days since I have a break.

 

I was going to install a Nardi on this car but I realized it’s not worth the headache and the airbag is important so I’ll be putting the wheel in my datsun 510 wagon. I love steering wheels so extras are always nice.

 

THIS FORUM IS GREAT. I must say. Thank you for the feedback and knowledge and I’ll try my best to apply it.

 

I’m hoping the issue with the car right now is the turbo because it’s clearly making weird noises and all the vacuum lines and IC piping seem fine.

[Max Capacity]

Have you replaced both engine to chassis grounds under the engine ?

 

They should be replaced if they are OEM.

 

good luck with the turbo noise.

[Mosubi]

Have you replaced both engine to chassis grounds under the engine ?

 

They should be replaced if they are OEM.

 

good luck with the turbo noise.

 

I haven’t replaced any grounds but the car has been perfectly fine actually so I’m gonna leave that to another day when I do axles so I can check the grounds.

 

The turbo is just surely acting up because I don’t even hear it spool properly or even kick in while I’m in 1st anymore.

 

I don’t have a wideband on the car but is it necessary with an AP?

 

I’m hoping to send in my v2 into COBB and upgrade to a v3.

[TickerPyro]

Ok... Let me start with the 240 code. You are going to have it until you get it taken out of your system loop Via a tuner or take out your WG restriction. A 240 will kill power to a system and cause a stall in most cases, but this should feel like an engine rev limit.

Throwing an EWG on the car is doing very little when you think about added heat retained as well imo.

The problem with the pressure and lack of drive over 3k is probably a blown TB hose. If you are TMI, you will have to take off the TM and pull on the DS side pressure hose. I think you probably blew that off, or the hose split. You should hear a shwoosh sound around 3k but have no power. If you have no sound, it is probably the restriction of the code throwing a CEL and forcing the car into limp mode.

Let me know what ya come up with, and

Merry SubyMas All.

[robburns201]

I haven’t replaced any grounds but the car has been perfectly fine actually so I’m gonna leave that to another day when I do axles so I can check the grounds.

 

The turbo is just surely acting up because I don’t even hear it spool properly or even kick in while I’m in 1st anymore.

 

I don’t have a wideband on the car but is it necessary with an AP?

 

I’m hoping to send in my v2 into COBB and upgrade to a v3.

Replacing grounds is a great idea and only takes 10mins and Will make world of difference is they are broken...

 

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

[Enlight]

As far as the axle itself, it's perfectly fine but I just need to replace the boot so I was thinking of using the aftermarket universal boots.

Any thoughts on this?

 

 

CV axles, I recommend you rebuild the ones you have if they are still OEM. Little more work then replacing but you know you have the correct axles.

 

Some after market are a little to long, or short. I'm on my 3rd left front. Right front was rebooted and has almost 250,000 miles. Rears have never been touched.

 

 

Get OE boots for the CV. They cost more than a cheap CV but will last longer. I can't remember which CV boot is longer (inner or outer), but you can use the longer one on both ends and that allows for less strain on the boot in its bent rotation. Plus being thicker/longer it will have more ability to dissipate/attract heat.

 

 

It's also worth giving raxles.com a call. They don't have them listed on their website but I believe they do sell the boots separately. I don't know where they source their boots from but they are high quality. If you're lucky you might be able to get them to spill the beans. The owner is very nice. If you ever need to replace the CV axles entirely they are good for that too (what I did).

 

Also, welcome to the forum!

[Max Capacity]

To answer the question, No, wide band is not needed on the car. The Tuner will have one at the dyno when it's time.

[Mosubi]

Ok... Let me start with the 240 code. You are going to have it until you get it taken out of your system loop Via a tuner or take out your WG restriction. A 240 will kill power to a system and cause a stall in most cases, but this should feel like an engine rev limit.

Throwing an EWG on the car is doing very little when you think about added heat retained as well imo.

The problem with the pressure and lack of drive over 3k is probably a blown TB hose. If you are TMI, you will have to take off the TM and pull on the DS side pressure hose. I think you probably blew that off, or the hose split. You should hear a shwoosh sound around 3k but have no power. If you have no sound, it is probably the restriction of the code throwing a CEL and forcing the car into limp mode.

Let me know what ya come up with, and

Merry SubyMas All.

 

The EWG for me is an option because it came with the car and I might as well use it. If anything, I'll switch back to the internal if things don't workout well for me when I install my vf52. I'm not sure what the TB hose is?

 

But the car doesn't rev limit or anything. It just began to bog heavily but now the car seems fine again after driving it a bit more.

It's personally probably ran the best since I've had the car.

[Mosubi]

To answer the question, No, wide band is not needed on the car. The Tuner will have one at the dyno when it's time.

 

 

I may not need the wideband at the dyno but I went through your source that you gave me and emailed the guy for the tune. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna do a remote tune so I just didnt know if it was necessary. Aside from that, I think that the car would be fine without it anyways because I have the v2 to gather what I need when I send the info to the tuner.

[Mosubi]

For the axles, I'm still a bit lagging on them because I've been on a time crunch and I also decided to work on my real project for a bit over the break.

[TickerPyro]

So what type of setup/tune do you have as of right now?

The car going from not spooling to working is almost always a lack of pressure. In severe cases it can be a broken fin on the turbo that gets lodged in.

The TB is the Throttle Body inlet hose. In our case it is on the drivers side and is connected of the TMI. It is a hose about 6 or 7 inches long and it connects from your TB to the right hand side of the TMI. Huge black hose.... Cant miss it.

Did you do anything before the car was magically fixed.

Or were you just testing, and now it is fine?

 

And about the wideband.... The AP can read the maps and prettymuch everything you need. A wideband is kinda like cutting the crust off a sandwich. A little refinement, but very doable without.

[Mosubi]

So what type of setup/tune do you have as of right now?

The car going from not spooling to working is almost always a lack of pressure. In severe cases it can be a broken fin on the turbo that gets lodged in.

The TB is the Throttle Body inlet hose. In our case it is on the drivers side and is connected of the TMI. It is a hose about 6 or 7 inches long and it connects from your TB to the right hand side of the TMI. Huge black hose.... Cant miss it.

Did you do anything before the car was magically fixed.

Or were you just testing, and now it is fine?

 

And about the wideband.... The AP can read the maps and prettymuch everything you need. A wideband is kinda like cutting the crust off a sandwich. A little refinement, but very doable without.

 

 

As of right now, the car has been fine but can’t hit 5k. I’m running a base stock map with my setup at the moment. I just purchased a speed density kit and I’ll install it at the same time as my vf52 some time next week.

 

I’m super excited and I’ll be getting my tune shortly after I install. I’m doing a dyno tune over at phatbotti tubing.

 

I have one question. Where’s a good spot to weld on the sensor for the speed density?

 

Also, Pro. I’m running a FMIC so the hose could be on a different spot but regardless I’ll check soon to make sure it’s tight and I’ll go from there.

The car was bogging a bit and it still doesn’t build boost as quickly which is surely a loose hose somewhere however it’s running smoother than it had. It magically happened after a bit more driving.

[Mosubi]

Recently I’ve been having some temp issues and my gauge is readin right in the middle.

Just want to confirm that the temp is okay at that point?

[Max Capacity]

Temp gauge in the middle or a slightly below is normal. Here in New England with the current cold snap, slightly below the middle is normal.

[Mosubi]

Temp gauge in the middle or a slightly below is normal. Here in New England with the current cold snap, slightly below the middle is normal.

 

Great to here!

 

I have another question!

I recently tried to install my turbo but I ran into quiet a few problems.

Once I tore down to the turbo, I found two issues.

One would be that the the turbo manifold on the exhaust housing seemed to have three bolts but the place that it was sitting had four studs? There seemed absolutely no signs of any leaks either. So with that said, what is the vf52? (t3/t4 or td05?) and what's SUPPOSED to be on the car. I just want to make sure I install everything properly.

 

Another question I have is that the vf52 has a port to bolt to for the intake side. I need an adapter to run but I'm wondering how well it works and what size works?

[TickerPyro]

A lgt 05-09 will have a vf-40. The Sti came with the VF-52. It will say it on the plate on the exhaust side. If you have a 4 hole square outlet, you probably have a t3/t4. No real telling the size unless you measure or give me model and mfr. The 52 looks exactly like the 40 only larger exhaust and intake turbines and ports.

 

Also, you say the place it was sitting had 4. Everything i said prior is assuming you meant the exhaust flange OF THE TURBO has 4 holes and is square. The IHI turbos have an oval exhaust entry hole and 3 holes for mounting. Did you buy a supposed vf52 from someone?

 

Car should run at middle peg or a tad under.

 

A TD 05 needs to be at least a 16 if you do reweld the EI. And you need to make sure oil leads are right. Other than that i have heard of conversions to a 20 that tears it up.

[robburns201]

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSCKJnfb85otd5RPxBSCx9rDGXfkqpyvTIJvj-jIf8T7XaZnNLG

 

this is the Throttle body hose(BLUE)...Pic is on the driver side and front of car is left of the picture...Hope this helps, i just didn't see an answer...