2006 Subaru Legacy Gt Build

[Max Capacity]

Great to here!

 

I have another question!

I recently tried to install my turbo but I ran into quiet a few problems.

Once I tore down to the turbo, I found two issues.

One would be that the the turbo manifold on the exhaust housing seemed to have three bolts but the place that it was sitting had four studs? There seemed absolutely no signs of any leaks either. So with that said, what is the vf52? (t3/t4 or td05?) and what's SUPPOSED to be on the car. I just want to make sure I install everything properly.

 

Another question I have is that the vf52 has a port to bolt to for the intake side. I need an adapter to run but I'm wondering how well it works and what size works?

 

 

 

Sounds like you didn't have a vf 40 turbo on the car. I'll need to go review this thread...

 

Ok, from post #1, "P.O. has a Garret installed which is setup with an external wastegste "

 

You'll need a standard three bolt flange up pipe. You can find one used or buy a new one catless up pipe.

 

I'll let someone with more knowledge about the waste gate set up comment on if you can just plug the now unused waste gate line.

[Mosubi]

A lgt 05-09 will have a vf-40. The Sti came with the VF-52. It will say it on the plate on the exhaust side. If you have a 4 hole square outlet, you probably have a t3/t4. No real telling the size unless you measure or give me model and mfr. The 52 looks exactly like the 40 only larger exhaust and intake turbines and ports.

 

Also, you say the place it was sitting had 4. Everything i said prior is assuming you meant the exhaust flange OF THE TURBO has 4 holes and is square. The IHI turbos have an oval exhaust entry hole and 3 holes for mounting. Did you buy a supposed vf52 from someone?

 

Car should run at middle peg or a tad under.

 

A TD 05 needs to be at least a 16 if you do reweld the EI. And you need to make sure oil leads are right. Other than that i have heard of conversions to a 20 that tears it up.

 

I got my vf52 from ebay. I'm aware that it's an ebay turbo and I'm almost positive its a t3/t4. The bottom flange that the exhaust port of the turbo bolts up to has 4 studs almost in a rectangular shape. The vf52 as well as the turbo I have on the car seem to only have three spots. I just wanted to confirm what I was getting into.

 

I'll look right now on ebay for the standard three bolt flange up pipe as Max stated. I was just curious as the current setup seemed to work fine.

 

Just to confirm, does anyone have a picture of the proper up pipe? I’d like to know exactly what I need.

 

Thank you so much guys!

All coming together nicely!

 

And for the tb hose, taken care of!

[Max Capacity]

Click on my click here link in my sig. Should pictures starting around post 26

[Mosubi]

Click on my click here link in my sig. Should pictures starting around post 26

 

So I realized that even though the up pipe has a few more studs, not all of them are used by the turbo mounting spot which is good to hear because I thought I had an issue.

 

Now the only other problem I'm having is that the intake side of the vf52 is something that's bolted onto. I cannot seem to find anything that's an adapter to make a slip on for the intercooler coupler.

 

Can anyone help??? I have the perrin FMIC and all I need is to get the right adapter to the vf52 in order to finish everything up!

[Max Capacity]

Can you post a picture of your vf52, most are set up for a slip fit hose.

 

I don't understand what your looks like.

 

Grimmspeed may have something you could ask them.

[Mosubi]

Can you post a picture of your vf52, most are set up for a slip fit hose.

 

I don't understand what your looks like.

 

Grimmspeed may have something you could ask them.

 

I'm currently at school and the turbo is in a box to return.

I can definitely post the link for the ad though.

After much thought and research, it undoubtedly seems like the 20G would be a better route for me to take.

 

I've contacted grimmspeed as well as perrin and there's been nothing.

What I can do is put the 20g on which is a closer relation to a gt3582r garret turbo than the vr52.

 

I'll post links to both turbos.

 

I'm also gonna order an up pipe with the external wastegate because the money I get from returning the vf52 is enough to purchase it.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263392763544

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VF52-Turbo-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Turbocharger-14411AA800/191432357424?epid=1542655287&hash=item2c9241f630:g:Oz8AAOxy0zhTOwtt&vxp=mtr

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301664551708

 

I'm also thinking this is a better route because I have everything else to compensate for the bigger turbo on the car such as FMIC, injectors, fuel lines, etc besides the tune which I will get shortly.

 

Because it's an ebay turbo, I'll probably get it balanced before install.

 

Thank you so much Max

[Max Capacity]

GT3582R, that's a lot of turbo.

We had a GT3576R on the civic in my avatar, that made 586whp from a 1.6L engine. When we sold that set up, the next guy made 735whp on methanol.

 

I can see where a 20g would be better with your fmic.

 

jmturbo, I wonder if that is member, JmP6889928 ?

[Mosubi]

GT3582R, that's a lot of turbo.

We had a GT3576R on the civic in my avatar, that made 586whp from a 1.6L engine. When we sold that set up, the next guy made 735whp on methanol.

 

Just saying

 

It is quiet the turbo but it’s on a setup that worked.

That’s why I think the 20g is gonna be my best bet to fit everything.

 

I’m excited for it actually.

I also realize that I need a tune so it’ll all happen shortly.

I’m gonna see if my external wastegate bracket will work on the 20g because then I’ll buy the appropriate down pipe to do so.

[Max Capacity]

Good Morning, I see your awake too. I'm headed off the work in a few. Been working OT this week, I go in at 5AM work till 3:30PM.

[TickerPyro]

A couple questions/comments Mos.

 

Why a dump pipe?

As Max has said, a 582R is a monster unless you are prettymuch all forged internals, but the 20 (if you buy from ebay) should be re-cartridged with something that is higher end. For the price of someone to align and balance, you can get a nice 2cut, double fin cartridge.

 

Also, there are different sizes of g20's. You want comp side to be inducer approx 53 ex 67, and turbine 56 ex 50ish at least. Also remember that you want an oil and water cooled turbo., some G20's are not. Also, most G20's are going to be a 4 bolt mount. So are the listed ebay links, the items you are looking at?

Just remember, you get what you pay for. I would hate to see all this work go to pot because you got a piece of junk. I have seen plenty of ebay specialls fail mid cycle and either crack or just blow up.

[Mosubi]

A couple questions/comments Mos.

 

Why a dump pipe?

As Max has said, a 582R is a monster unless you are prettymuch all forged internals, but the 20 (if you buy from ebay) should be re-cartridged with something that is higher end. For the price of someone to align and balance, you can get a nice 2cut, double fin cartridge.

 

Also, there are different sizes of g20's. You want comp side to be inducer approx 53 ex 67, and turbine 56 ex 50ish at least. Also remember that you want an oil and water cooled turbo., some G20's are not. Also, most G20's are going to be a 4 bolt mount. So are the listed ebay links, the items you are looking at?

Just remember, you get what you pay for. I would hate to see all this work go to pot because you got a piece of junk. I have seen plenty of ebay specialls fail mid cycle and either crack or just blow up.

 

Well the gt3582r is monstrous but I figured it previously worked on this car so I don’t see why the smaller 20g wouldn’t work. The 20g that I’ve purchased is oil cooled and water cooled. It’s also a 3 bolt up pipe td05 with the rear Subaru 5 bolt for the down pipe.

 

I know there’s plenty of debates on eBay turbos that’ll never end but at this day and age, most are made at the same factory using the same seals. A difference would be the branding. If this were say 2010, yes, there would be a huge difference. Another thing is that people blast these turbos and push them like they’re high end. Because I’m gonna be daily driving, I was gonna run a moderate 16psi opposed to 22.

 

The down pipe is more than likely not going to be used. I’d like to include it because I already have a complete setup to compensate. Otherwise, I’ll sell it and put that towards the tune. It’s not the biggest concern for me.

 

Good morning Max! OT is good stuff and enjoy the hustle!

 

What's a turbo brand you'd recommend that's reasonably priced if I were to switch?

Hit me with some links! I'm more so thinking of getting an 18g potentially too.

 

Also, one problem I've been having is that my clutch and brake pedal are shaking.

Only when the car is on and only SOMETIMES does it happen. The clutch pedal vibrates to the same rhythm as the motor.

The brake pedal also does this but if you press the brake maybe an inch, the feeling stops all together.

 

I cannot find anywhere the issue is coming from but I really feel that it cannot be anything to do with the internals of the clutch system.

Especially since the clutch only has 1k on it and the brake pedal is having a similar issue.

 

However when I press the clutch pedal all the way down, it doesn't completely stop. Only the brake stops. I've heard its potentially the transmission mounts?

[Max Capacity]

TickerPryo knows what he's talking about with turbo's. He can set you straight.

 

You may want to make sure the tranny mounts are tight from the clutch job.

[Mosubi]

TickerPryo knows what he's talking about with turbo's. He can set you straight.

 

You may want to make sure the tranny mounts are tight from the clutch job.

 

I still think it I push lower psi, it’ll be okay.

Plus, honestly as a college student, I don’t wanna drown all the money I have for the build into the turbo. I was just unfortunate that mine went out.

 

I just replaced the o-ring for the power steering and I’m gonna get the oem one. I used an Oreileys one for now

[TickerPyro]

Mos, the tranny bushings on that car are honestly some of the shittiest i have seen on a car. If you can use a full poly bushing instead of whatever crap they have, i would (and did). It takes the hard thump out of 1st/2nd shift that most complain about, and helps with the tranny roll (what you are experiencing).

 

As far as turbos go, a new cartridge setup is a little over 100$ most are forged and balanced. I know that most big name IHI, KKK, Garrett, etc. Rebrand, but i have never seen a JKTurbo or whatever that is cast, ported, channeled and balanced like the higher ends. If someone can show me proof of this i will gladly take this back though. I love to be proven wrong .

I asked about a dump pipe earlier, because perhaps you and i have a different meaning of the term.

 

Max knows what a true dump pipe is (for a race car) but you had said you are not going anywhere near that route.

So why toss a 100$ away.

 

I had seen links for a generic VF52 that called it a TD05, is that what you were going to get?

I could roll out the books on turbos if you need info, but comp size and ex size is all that matters dependant on where you want power. If you want, ask the form for an old vf40 for 100$ and you can just re-cartridge that with a 12fin prop and have a brand new setup. Easily will do what a bunch of ebay turbos say they will do, and you know it is not going to blow up at 16lb.

 

Hope some of this is usefull.

[Max Capacity]

Here's a true dump pipe. from back in the day,

 

[Mosubi]

Mos, the tranny bushings on that car are honestly some of the shittiest i have seen on a car. If you can use a full poly bushing instead of whatever crap they have, i would (and did). It takes the hard thump out of 1st/2nd shift that most complain about, and helps with the tranny roll (what you are experiencing).

 

As far as turbos go, a new cartridge setup is a little over 100$ most are forged and balanced. I know that most big name IHI, KKK, Garrett, etc. Rebrand, but i have never seen a JKTurbo or whatever that is cast, ported, channeled and balanced like the higher ends. If someone can show me proof of this i will gladly take this back though. I love to be proven wrong .

I asked about a dump pipe earlier, because perhaps you and i have a different meaning of the term.

 

Max knows what a true dump pipe is (for a race car) but you had said you are not going anywhere near that route.

So why toss a 100$ away.

 

I had seen links for a generic VF52 that called it a TD05, is that what you were going to get?

I could roll out the books on turbos if you need info, but comp size and ex size is all that matters dependant on where you want power. If you want, ask the form for an old vf40 for 100$ and you can just re-cartridge that with a 12fin prop and have a brand new setup. Easily will do what a bunch of ebay turbos say they will do, and you know it is not going to blow up at 16lb.

 

Hope some of this is usefull.

 

You're clearly a very knowledgeable guy and I very much so admire that. As well as Max, you're both very well read up and I'm jealous.

 

Let me explain my situation. My car has the entire setup for the gt3582r which was already on the car but has blown seals since the day I purchased the car. I honestly' don't have too much money so the most relevant idea to my scenario is purchase a turbo that'll swap in or to get my current turbo rebuilt. I'm not looking for much power honestly. I'm more so looking to just drive the car from point a to b with some type of kick when I desire.

 

After a LOT of thought and plenty of help with you guys, I'm at the point that I have already acquired a 20g turbo off ebay. I plan to re-balance it at my friends shop for cheap and go from there. The turbo may not be the best and I truly do understand that. You're completely right as far as what you've told me but for pure convenience in my life, I think this is the best decision. As stated, I'm not gonna run a lot of boost at all. I'd rather have a lower boost and everything on the safer side. The turbo was only a short $200 so if anything happens after two years of owning it, I'll have gotten my moneys worth and by then, I'll have enough money to repurchase a proper garret. Yes, this sounds like a bad investment but I'll get my utility out of it.

 

To clarify on the dump pipe, me and my friends keep calling the "screamer pipe" which is coming off the exhaust housing on the external was gate, the dump pipe. You'd both be correct as a proper dump pipe but I've just gotten used to saying it with my friends.

 

For the transmission bushings, I'm very interested in that. Do you have a link to any better bushings by chance? Also, how difficult etc are they to install?

 

My power steering leak is getting a little out of hand so I'm hoping to get under the car monday and see if I need a new rack or not. I've actually already replaced the top o-ring but unfortunately, nothing happened. I'm considering that potentially, air got into my lines but I'm not entirely sure. I was planing to bleed my system Monday just incase. I've also seen that the rebuild kit is $155 from Subaru and I could take that to a shop and pay labor to get the rack and pinion rebuilt.

 

Now installing my turbo. I've already acquired the eBay 20g turbo.

Now what I need to know before attempting is if anyone knows whether the 3inch inlet hose on a gt3582r is going to fit onto the 20g turbo. I'm also curious to know if anyone knows if the coolant lines and oil feed line will swap over? The turbos do look VERY similar but I cant see the gt3582 directly in front of me to confirm. Any knowledge on this would be helpful because I cannot find anything.

 

I also saw some random water or seemed to be dripping from somewhere right under the front of the passengers door. It was after driving the car which was surprising because I expected maybe a coolant leak but as I said, it was cold and clear.

 

I just wanna say again, thank you for your help. Both of you are responsive and elaborate. Not many people are willing to help as much as you both and I'll surely pay it forward.

[TickerPyro]

NP Mos, we are here to help.

Ok so first off you need to know brand of turbo. A G20 from Garrett and a no name are 2 completely different things. Some have a 4 bolt outlet flange, some a 3. A G20 from Garrett or Turbo Dynamics will have a much larger inlet and exhaust diamiter than the generic. Ebay is kinda rough when it comes to lables and what you actually get. A link would help out.

If your car was set up for a 582r then the downpipe should of worked, but im not sure how you had it bolted to headers that are a 3 bolt stock, when the turbo should have a 4 bolt plate. This is where turbo brand and type come into play once again.

 

As for the 3inch inlet, i know that the G20 you ordered is not going to be 3inch. If you are refering to the piping from the intake to the turbo. You will have to look at perrins site and see if they have a reducer.

 

Was the AC on when you encountered this water? Or any rain previous day? You have an outlet for body water right around that area. Honestly the next time it does it i would take a lighter to it. If it is brake or PS fluid it will burn, or you can taste it.... Up to you.

 

I honestly wouldnt worry about a balance on a turbo unless you are going balls out. As long as it has no shaft play your chances of detting a factory turbo is slim.

 

Thx Max for the true def of a 4in dump pipe hahhaha. (Thats where the and smoke come from)

 

I will look at my old link for the poly bushings, and if you have a friend with a shop it is a 20 min job. Jacks are a tad more due to actually pulling supports and loading new bushings while on your back.

 

Explain what is on the car ATM so i can visualize this setup. It is hard to talk about single odds and ends when it seems like you have had some work done that may not be stock placement.

 

Stay the course bud. It will all come together in the end.

[Max Capacity]

I'm now wondering if you might be better off doing this;

 

sell the 20g

get a cheap rental car

have the GT3582R rebuilt

put it back on.

 

You will need a tune for the 20g + parts to make it fit.

 

What is the cost of doing wither one

What are the benefits

 

 

 

Oh, get the STI tranny mount from Subaru its like $70 and will stop a ton of movement in the shifter. First MOD I did to my wagon, made a big difference back in July 2004

[Mosubi]

NP Mos, we are here to help.

Ok so first off you need to know brand of turbo. A G20 from Garrett and a no name are 2 completely different things. Some have a 4 bolt outlet flange, some a 3. A G20 from Garrett or Turbo Dynamics will have a much larger inlet and exhaust diamiter than the generic. Ebay is kinda rough when it comes to lables and what you actually get. A link would help out.

If your car was set up for a 582r then the downpipe should of worked, but im not sure how you had it bolted to headers that are a 3 bolt stock, when the turbo should have a 4 bolt plate. This is where turbo brand and type come into play once again.

 

As for the 3inch inlet, i know that the G20 you ordered is not going to be 3inch. If you are refering to the piping from the intake to the turbo. You will have to look at perrins site and see if they have a reducer.

 

Was the AC on when you encountered this water? Or any rain previous day? You have an outlet for body water right around that area. Honestly the next time it does it i would take a lighter to it. If it is brake or PS fluid it will burn, or you can taste it.... Up to you.

 

I honestly wouldnt worry about a balance on a turbo unless you are going balls out. As long as it has no shaft play your chances of detting a factory turbo is slim.

 

Thx Max for the true def of a 4in dump pipe hahhaha. (Thats where the �� and smoke come from)

 

I will look at my old link for the poly bushings, and if you have a friend with a shop it is a 20 min job. Jacks are a tad more due to actually pulling supports and loading new bushings while on your back.

 

Explain what is on the car ATM so i can visualize this setup. It is hard to talk about single odds and ends when it seems like you have had some work done that may not be stock placement.

 

Stay the course bud. It will all come together in the end.

 

Here's the link to the turbo I actually purchased. As far as the turbo fitting the up pipe and the 5-bolt down pipe, I think everything will be just fine on that part. My concern is the inlet as you mentioned to look at perrin, and to see my cooling lines as far as oil and water will unbolt from the garret onto the car and onto this one. The Garret that was on my car was heavily modified. I truly wish I took pictures last time to explain but my hands were full and I was racing time.

 

I found some inlets that'll work specifically for 20g turbos but my only concern is what year of wrx hose will fit onto the legacy? From what I understand, an intake hose thats 08+ will fit onto the legacy properly.

I just don't want to spend too much money if what I have on the car now will fit onto the current turbo I have.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STi-BIG-TD05-20G-Turbo-Charger-2-0L-2-5L-EJ20-EJ25/263392763544?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I'll look into the sti tranny mount when I go to pick up some parts from subaru on monday. Do you have a part number by chance Max? What year sti etc if not. I'll just swap that in instead of the bushings to make it easier.

 

The water that was under the car can be an overflow of something but I'm not sure what. I'll try to get a lighter to it and see what happens next time. It had no smell and color which made me believe it was water. And no, the AC was not on at the time. I checked that as soon as I went into the car.

 

Max you're not wrong but after weighing my opportunity cost, this is the best route. I still need a tune regardless of what turbo I choose because of all the other mods on the car and I also have an option to get one at a discounted rate if I'm quick enough to slap my new turbo on.

 

Here's my current mod list to give an idea of where I'm at.

 

Forged JE pistons

Forged Manly Rods

20g Ebay turbo

850cc side feed injectors with perrin fuel rails

FMIC said to be perrin but I find no definition of that

KOYO radiator

3inch turbo inlet hose (this is what I'm wondering what i need to change to fit the 20g)

AEM intake

Greddy AOS

Catless turboback

Exedy pro-kit clutch

Stoptech Big Brake Kit

Whiteline Roll Center

V2 Accessport

[Max Capacity]

quick search on google. its the rear tranny mount, easy to install. I'm sure its the same for all years. Have the same mount in my Spec B, When you remove the stock one, you'll understand why its better.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=STi+tranny+mopunt&oq=STi+tranny+mopunt&aqs=chrome..69i57.4800j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

 

 

That link you posted for the 20g is exactly like a the stock turbo for hooking it up.

[Mosubi]

quick search on google. its the rear tranny mount, easy to install. I'm sure its the same for all years. Have the same mount in my Spec B, When you remove the stock one, you'll understand why its better.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=STi+tranny+mopunt&oq=STi+tranny+mopunt&aqs=chrome..69i57.4800j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

 

 

That link you posted for the 20g is exactly like a the stock turbo for hooking it up.

 

Sweet! Thank you so much!

So I’ll probably go on Monday to Subaru to pick up the sti tranny mount. That’ll be a big nice help cuz this shaking is driving me nuts!

 

As far as the turbo, thank you Max. I’ll also get the oem turbo inlet I suppose as well.

[TickerPyro]

Honestly Mos, with this turbo you are not far off from a monster. To have a 54/63 and 54/68 you have a beast in your hands.

You have all the internals to hold it abd the fuel to feed. Everything should bolt up fine. Except the Inlet.

 

And let me note that installing a new inlet is quite a bitch. It ends up being 3 hours of dickin around with moving hoses and then you need to make sure it is not too long.

 

Also, buying a quality pipe is preferred, because once the engine gets hot they like to collapse.

[Mosubi]

Honestly Mos, with this turbo you are not far off from a monster. To have a 54/63 and 54/68 you have a beast in your hands.

You have all the internals to hold it abd the fuel to feed. Everything should bolt up fine. Except the Inlet.

 

And let me note that installing a new inlet is quite a bitch. It ends up being 3 hours of dickin around with moving hoses and then you need to make sure it is not too long.

 

Also, buying a quality pipe is preferred, because once the engine gets hot they like to collapse.

 

The turbo I posted of is 52/67 and 53/68. Are you talking about the one I already have on the car? Either way, that 20g has good numbers.

I've also read that the inlet can be a ******* pain in the ass. That's why I also tried to prepare myself as much as possible. I was also thinking that the one on my car would work fine. It's red but I cannot seem to find any name on it or the size to make sure it'll fit that 20g.

 

I was going to go with the perrin lgt inlet IF I had to purchase one. When I removed my last turbo, there was a small hose that seemed to go from a smaller diameter to larger diameter to fit my current setup. I just want to get that hose replaced with the proper size although I could be wrong. It's the hose that actually clamps onto the turbine housing.

 

And this car could be a monster but I put my word on it that without both you and Max, it would be shit because you guys are really getting me through this stress.

[Max Capacity]

I'm trying to picture if Vibrant make make a short hose that can be slipped up inside the 3" intake hose and make up the difference between the 20g snout. You'll need to measure the OD of the 20g and figure how thick/wide the gap is between the two turbo snouts.

 

https://www.vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1073_1141

 

 

If you need to lift the manifold to slip the intake hose out. Think about lifting it at the TGV's to head. There are fewer bolts then the manifold to TGV's. That also lets you not have to look for the clamps and brackets under the plastic intake that make it hard to get some space.

 

When I replaced the o-rings between the intake and TGV's it was hard to get all the clamps and brackets to give me enough room to slip the o-rings out and new larger ones in.

 

When I pulled the engine, I just removed the entire intake system from the heads. At least with the engine out of the car, that felt like a much easier thing to do.

 

Look it over and decide what you might think is easier. think about the coolant lines too. If you need, remove the fuel lines from the shock tower, don't screw with those PITA QD's.

 

pictures for info if they help.

 

 

[TickerPyro]

No Mos, i was reading the inlet and ex # from the 20G. It actually seems like a legit monster. Says it has pusged an STI 150hp and 130tq. That puts it over its max labled output, but that is probably just words heheheh.

 

As for having a coupler to fit your current setup.... Sounds like you have a 2 inch pipe and someone just used a bigger turbo with a stockish intake (just an expender to hold the 3" inlet on the turbo).

So once you get the turbo off, you can take off that expander, and you will have the stock fit. You will just need to slip on and bolt up. No BS tearing apart the top end of the motor afterall.

 

BTW, how much did you get this car for?

Seems there is not a virgin piece on this vehicle.

 

The PS rack, you should try to get one from a yard. They come out rather easy and should set you back about as much as a rebuild kit.

 

It should be a smooth sail from here out. If you end up with any spare parts let me know. I need to do a bunch of work on my car for the 100k mark.

 

As always, glad we can help. By the sounds of it you are talking to 2 racecar guys who are also techs, so you are covered from every base.