2006 Subaru Legacy Gt Build

[Mosubi]

Remember back like 3 months ago i mentoined that clutch fork pivot (you said you had never heard of)?

Was just wondering if you got that all fixed up, as well as doing the tranny mount bushings with new poly instead of rubber.

Is it every gear at 2-3k? Is it a predet knock that could be associated with a tune, like a timing adv on accel? I have you checked the clutch since the issue before (sounds like something is not flush on acceleration on the clutch side, but could well be a timiming/fuel issue.

Hope this helps.

 

So i did get that fixed as far as the clutch and it shifts smooth as butter now.

As far as the sti mount, this has been something ive been wanting to mention.

 

EVERY TIME i install the sti mount, my trans wont go into fifth and reverse and even gets stuck sometimes but as soon as i switch back mounts, it's smooth as hell.

 

I'm not sure if its predet knock but I was thinking it could be something with fuel? which is why im anticipating this tune so that I can get it setup.

 

I also bought an innovated boost controller afr gauge to get that setup as well.

 

It's very intermittent which is why im so confused but it usually happens in like second gear and up. I did have a boost leak at one point so im thinking i might have other small ones too that I need to find and fix?

 

my wastegate failed to work and my car hit 39psi at one point which is when this kinda start happening. it started a few days later. which is why im super scared

[TickerPyro]

As far as STI mount.... I went with poly bushings that took the thump out of hard shifts and tightened everything up. I don't know about a conversion to an STI mount. An STI is a smaller and lighter car that uses a different tranny than the legacy from what i read. But I have never personally mocked up an STI tranny to an LGT undercarriage.

 

As far as the BoV goes i would be concerned if you hit 39 and popped a seal somewhere. A single runup of boost should not kill the car (if it did, the car would of let you know right then). The most it would of done is blown a headgasket and you can check oil, exhaust and coolant to tell. Honestly that could be the issue, but you would be throwing FtF codes like crazy if so.

 

Make sure to plug your green wires in under the pass dash so you can write to ecu as well.

[Mosubi]

Wow. This car has just been shitting on me but i love it too much to let go now.

 

The car used to be running super well then it kept intermittently dying and it had a camshaft code p0335- p0345 so I figured I’d change that and no dice. I changed crankshaft while I was at it.

 

Then I did a relay and some other small stuff and the car was still not working reliably.

 

My fuel pump relay as well as temp sensor were acting up a lot as well.

Just the other day I took apart starter and cleaned all the terminals and grounds as well as replaced the starter and now the car seems good.

 

I did have the battery off for a few hours which may have done a hard reset.

 

Now the car works every time on start up but another intermittent problem has occurred.

 

While driving the car seems to almost fuel cut or just random loss of power and then it’ll sometimes die when I’m cruising in neutral.

 

I’m not sure what it is but I’d really appreciate any help.

 

I also replaced that fuel pump relay because it was ticking and now the temp sensor and relay have been fine.

 

I also had a coolant line blow up to my turbo so I had to fix that and I also had another problem with the pvc hose fly off but I fixed that as well.

 

I’m not sure if it’s cuz I changed the camshaft sensor or wht.

 

I also had to replace my alternator because it failed.

I’m seriously beat by this car and if I can just get it to run reliably instead of power at this point, I’ll be content.

 

I’ll add that my idle is always 14.6-14.9 according to my afr gauge but when driving and it does that little cut I see my numbers go down to roughly 10-12 for a few quick seconds and after I fuel again or continue on throttle at the same pressure it’ll come back up.

[TickerPyro]

What tune is in this car? Also, did you get the BOV issue resolved? The issues that you are having IMO are either the car asking for more fuel than is being delivered, or you have an ECU enduced timing issue.

There could always be a vacuum issue as well, leading the MAP sensor to default out and want to kill itself.

 

So with these issues, you will have very little issues on a constant 1/2 pedal, but once you drop off or get on it vacuum will cause a fault.

 

ECU setup and a timing issue can cause it to run like garbage and i believe that it can also cause the cam sensor errors, due to the timing saying it is way ahead and stopping the det.

Also, I believe out car has a module that the CPS connects to not being the ECU but is varried on oil pressure and has to do with the VVT intake.

[Mosubi]

I did get the BOB issue resolved by installing an innovative boost/afr gauge and controller that I’ve been completely loving. Plus I never really need to hit that fast and the car was running fine with it.

 

I’ve been noticing more that the car is actually dying at higher numbers in the afr. So randomly when I come to a stop, my afr is 22.4 from cruising in gear and it drops to idle bf then sometimes t drops to roughly 16 and I see it continue to 20’s then die. But similar to what you said, when I do accelerate, the car does drop from the normal 14.7 to 13~. I’m assuming that could be a vacuum leak? I’m gonna redo my vacuum setup today and see what can be done. What else could the issue be?

 

I feel like it’s Ecu related. And even at 1/2 constant pedal, I still do get these issues.

The tune from michael has yet to come because an abundant of problems that came but he’s supposed to send one this week.

 

The tune I’m currently running is the tune I’ve had for the past 6-8 months which hasn’t given me any problems besides the 2-3k stutter.

[Mosubi]

The worst part is I get no check engine codes so I don’t think it’s the o2 or the tps.

 

I wanna say tune. Maybe fuel pump relay? But my afr used to be a lot more stable and now it fluctuates a lot more.

[TickerPyro]

Id say it is vacuum, a possible oil pressure (if you changed turbos you better make sure that banjo bolt is clean), or the MAP/MAF is screwed up.

Sounds like the car says you are getting high then low volumes of air, that do not sync with speed. But then again that can be a timing retarding type of thing to.

 

You have my things to check hehehe

[Mosubi]

Id say it is vacuum, a possible oil pressure (if you changed turbos you better make sure that banjo bolt is clean), or the MAP/MAF is screwed up.

Sounds like the car says you are getting high then low volumes of air, that do not sync with speed. But then again that can be a timing retarding type of thing to.

 

You have my things to check hehehe

 

I don’t think timing because I’ve never played with it. The turbo is the same on the car so it shouldn’t be that but maybe a boost leak? I did change My pcv and the car doesn’t turn off anymore or maybe I need to drive more. The MAF is an option to clean? I’m so lost. Wouldn’t maf give a CEL?

 

I don’t know how to check oil pressure.

 

I just want the car to be reliable. I don’t wanna sell.

 

It’s been idling perfect now but just sometimes leans out to 16 afr and I get scared and when I get off throttle it goes back to normal????

[Max Capacity]

Oil pressure issues at the turbo or with the AVCS will give you a CEL P0011 or P0021.

 

Is the boost pill in the correct location on the compressor housing ? It should be towards the compressor blades.

[Mosubi]

Oil pressure issues at the turbo or with the AVCS will give you a CEL P0011 or P0021.

 

Is the boost pill in the correct location on the compressor housing ? It should be towards the compressor blades.

 

Well I have no CEL to do with that so my issue is different. Okay I need major help doing my vacuum system to make sure it’s accurate. I have two catch cans in front of the car. I’m going to paint a picture.

 

There’s a total of 7 ports. Two on the back middle near the turbo. Two on each side of the motor near the injectors and one off the intake.

 

I’ve capped the intake port. On the left side of the block near the power steering reservoir, I took the port closest to the headlights AND the left port of the top two in the rear that’s directly on the block to the catch can. On the drivers side, of left one of the hoses which is the one closer to the firewall, going to somewhere under the intake which I have no idea but seems connected to a hardline. The port that’s closest to the headlights goes directly to the catch can. That leaves the passengers side port that’s closest to firewall and the back right port. I’ve connected those and directly connected to the catch can. These are all either 5/8 or 3/4 big. let me know what you guys think.

 

Sometimes on start up the car smokes and goes away after driving but still burns a bit. I just want to make sure my vacuum system is good.

 

My PLAN is to get a video of how it's all currently setup.

I keep trying to find a video or a picture or diagram of exactly how mine is supposed to be setup but I'm just scared with where it all goes and I have no idea where that hose leads to on the drivers side that goes under intake.

[TickerPyro]

Mob, the under intake run to the TB and IMP sensor if i am thinking of the correct ones.

Why dont you take the shroud off the car and get a video of how it runs and problem locations.

 

That way we can hear noises, throttle response, and you can point out vac lines.

[Mosubi]

Mob, the under intake run to the TB and IMP sensor if i am thinking of the correct ones.

Why dont you take the shroud off the car and get a video of how it runs and problem locations.

 

That way we can hear noises, throttle response, and you can point out vac lines.

 

So here's a video. I found that the port on the top left where i first film is actually the one causing smoke so I'm gonna have to put that specific port directly to the catch can.

 

The car is running better and idles absolutely perfect but while driving, the car does lean out but if i let off throttle and get back on it, the car drives 14.6-14.8 which is why I think I have a boost leak somewhere.

 

https://vimeo.com/270199844