2006 Subaru Legacy Gt Build

[Mosubi]

I'm trying to picture if Vibrant make make a short hose that can be slipped up inside the 3" intake hose and make up the difference between the 20g snout. You'll need to measure the OD of the 20g and figure how thick/wide the gap is between the two turbo snouts.

 

https://www.vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1073_1141

 

 

If you need to lift the manifold to slip the intake hose out. Think about lifting it at the TGV's to head. There are fewer bolts then the manifold to TGV's. That also lets you not have to look for the clamps and brackets under the plastic intake that make it hard to get some space.

 

When I replaced the o-rings between the intake and TGV's it was hard to get all the clamps and brackets to give me enough room to slip the o-rings out and new larger ones in.

 

When I pulled the engine, I just removed the entire intake system from the heads. At least with the engine out of the car, that felt like a much easier thing to do.

 

Look it over and decide what you might think is easier. think about the coolant lines too. If you need, remove the fuel lines from the shock tower, don't screw with those PITA QD's.

 

pictures for info if they help.

 

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[ATTACH]260764[/ATTACH]

 

Wow Max. That entire post was beyond helpful.

I’ll measure my 20g when I get home but I’d honestly like to say that it seems like it’s the same size as the stock turbo for the car. I can’t check directly what it is but you get the idea.

 

I’ll buy a measuring tape and go from there. Ever since I moved out for school, things got so much harder because I don’t have half of my damn tools and it drives me nuts!

 

If I remember correctly, the 20g seemed like a 2inch ID and the intake that’s on the car at the moment was I believe 3inch so I’d go from there.

 

Of course I’ll try to measure what’s on the car but it’ll be fairly difficult because of it’s spot. I’d just need that opposed to the entire intake hose.

 

It’s been super hard to find the name of that hose. Is there a specific name for it? Or is it just a coupler?

[Max Capacity]

The size of what's on the car should be on Garrett's site.

 

I believe its called a turbo intake.

 

If the difference is one inch, I'm not sure you can make up that difference. Worth a shot.

[Wasted Potential]

Sorry to partially hijack, but how big can you really go before needing a rotated setup?

[TickerPyro]

Sorry to partially hijack, but how big can you really go before needing a rotated setup?

 

To answer this, it is untill you physically can not fit a turbo in the gap for it. Precision Turbo makes a 4 bolt to 3 plate so you can install prettmuch anything until you hit the firewall or are too large to make bolts lign up.

 

Percision makes a 550hp direct bolt on, but you need some serious internal works for that. (I know this from working with it). Do you want to do a monster 700hp project or something?

 

 

As for Max and Mos, by the sounds of things he already has a slip on the inlet to go from 2 to 3. He will just pull the reducer off when he does the T20 swap and bplt up clean. I have only seen 1 company that makes a 3 inch inlet for the LGT and that is AVO.

[Mosubi]

The size of what's on the car should be on Garrett's site.

 

I believe its called a turbo intake.

 

If the difference is one inch, I'm not sure you can make up that difference. Worth a shot.

 

So I downloaded a ruler app loll

I know it sounds ridiculous but being far from home, there's a lack of tools.

 

I ended up seeing that it's roughly 2.25 but I really wanna say 2.5. (The ID)

I'm not sure if it's measured with the OD or not.

 

The one on my car is currently 3inch.

I'm thinking that I'll have to switch to 2.5 but NOW ANOTHER ISSUE.

 

I was able to find a plate on my intake and found out that it's an ASP.

With that said, the company has shut down which is problematic because the hose is actually a crooked type of inlet? I'm gonna post the link because I cant describe it.

 

I just need to find out if the ASP is 3inch which I'm almost 90% sure it is.

I'll measure the air intake side whenever I change my actual intake tomorrow.

 

I cannot seem to find anything like these types of couplers and it's driving me crazy. Vibrant does sell 2.5 to 3 though Max.

 

I also ordered the sti mount and the kurnigawa oil and coolant steel braided lines. I figured I might as well do everything right.

 

As for Tyre, the slip on hose to the turbo is 3inch on the turbo side I believe because that's what the PO had previously told me. I'm also positive the intake is a 3inch hose as well so it's a 3 to 3. All I need is a 2.5 to three I believe.

 

Also I got in contact with the ebay store who sells the turbo and they said that the turbo is a sti replacement version. I've been trying to understand if that means it has the same inlet size or not and I spoke to AQ motoring in Torrance over the phone and the man told me he believes that turbos are 2.5inch stock?

 

To top it off, APS is out of business so I can't actually get another hose from them. Here's the link to what they have.

http://www.airpowersystems.com/wrx/intake/intake.htm

[Max Capacity]

PM JmP6889928 he may know the answer to the intake size.

 

I believe STI's have a flange type inlet ? But I could be wrong. Haven't looked in a while. any turbo site will have a picture.

 

The picture you have looks like the stock Throttle Body hose, which is angled like that.

 

I'm sure you have a 3" inlet on the Garrett.

[TickerPyro]

https://frsport.com/2-5-inch-to-3-inch-Transition-Coupler-Black_p_24009.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAhfzSBRBTEiwAN-ysWGxu7J9QYHpEnYZG3rdDZh5F7rBS0wRclVdv2fgtaPZ8QmSjRoHYcBoCIeoQAvD_BwE

 

That is what you are looking for Mos.

 

You have a 3 inch outlet on the cast intake and a 2.5 on the T5 Turbo.

Just get 2 lock clamps (not screw). I can give you a link for them if you need that as well.

I would also like to know who might have one of those intakes left over. That is a beast.

By the look of parts that have been dropped in that motor, you can push that thing to 450-500 conservativly and it still be very workable. And anything over 500 is a big thing, with this particular motor.

[Mosubi]

PM JmP6889928 he may know the answer to the intake size.

 

I believe STI's have a flange type inlet ? But I could be wrong. Haven't looked in a while. any turbo site will have a picture.

 

The picture you have looks like the stock Throttle Body hose, which is angled like that.

 

I'm sure you have a 3" inlet on the Garrett.

 

I do have a 3inch on the Garret. Also, for the flange type you're speaking of, are you talking about the bolts? I already measured the inlet for the 20g I have now and then I got the correct coupler from the turbo to the intercooler piping.

 

Pro, I purchased the mishimoto coupler as you linker and as for the bolt clamps, are you speaking of the ones used on couplers with the bolts opposed to screws? I purchased two of them as well to properly tighten things down. For the APS, I couldn't find anything anywhere but I'm glad I have one. It may make things a bit complicated at the moment but it'll all sort out and be well worth it. I'm hoping to get 400hp out of it and see where I'm able to go with that. I want to keep it reliable as a daily so I don't want to push anything more than I should. I'm actually doing a complete rebuild on a dohc ka24de that I may end up putting a 20g on. That's more of my weekend car. I love my 510 more than the subie but because I moved out for college, don't get to see it much.

 

I'm super excited for everything though.

I also got my steel braided oil and coolant lines and slapped em on the turbo now just to get a vision and I'm excited man.

 

I also installed my greddy AOS yesterday. With that said, I ran the small OD hoses from each valve cover and the smaller OD on the rear of the block to the aos as well as the intake outlet. That should keep even pressure and work properly correct? The bigger OD hoses on the valve cover are left where they were when I purchased the car on ONE side. The other side that I could finally damn get to, I ran it to the LARGER OD hose on the back of the block.

 

I also purchased turbo exhaust manifold bolts but after looking at the turbo, I realized only three of the 5 exhaust holes are threaded. Is that normal? Also the bolts I got form subaru didn't even thread in? I'm not sure.

I was thinking to just get bolts and washers that fit and do it that way?

 

I'll surely post an engine bay pic in a few days after I clean everything.

 

Thank you Pro and Max. Seriously making me love this forum and ill pay it forward!

[Max Capacity]

your turbo exhaust side should have two studs and three threaded holes.

 

 

I know I have a better picture, just can't find it now.

[Mosubi]

your turbo exhaust side should have two studs and three threaded holes.

 

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I know I have a better picture, just can't find it now.

That picture is more than fine!

So it looks like the turbo i have has two open holes and three studs. I'll probably just use flange bolts and I'll put two studs in so I can get the down pipe on there.

[Max Capacity]

I was looking around the web and found the STi turbo's had three studs and the same slip fit inlet for a hose/tube.

 

remember to use anti-seize compound on all threads

[TickerPyro]

Mos, AOS are kinda tricky. You want a pcv setup on the ex to a lower gravity feed back to a sump/oil pan. Lots of people run back into VC which is kinda pointless if the AOS has notbfully done the de-aireration process. This is where it helps to Y into a turbo return line if possible.

Yes i meant the bolt (10mm deep thread) clamps instead of a screw.

 

Just remeber a 510 stock motor pushed like 150hp. Dropping a 20G on that is going to easily double if not close to tripple HP. The 1.4-1.6 motor was not made to take a huge beating on stock internals.

So expect to go with forged rods and pistons and heavy valves if so.

I do have an older vf39 that would work great on that car and not blow it up hahaha.

Although im really looking forward to doing a G35 turbo project, since you can find them down here for soo cheap.

[Mosubi]

Mos, AOS are kinda tricky. You want a pcv setup on the ex to a lower gravity feed back to a sump/oil pan. Lots of people run back into VC which is kinda pointless if the AOS has notbfully done the de-aireration process. This is where it helps to Y into a turbo return line if possible.

Yes i meant the bolt (10mm deep thread) clamps instead of a screw.

 

Just remeber a 510 stock motor pushed like 150hp. Dropping a 20G on that is going to easily double if not close to tripple HP. The 1.4-1.6 motor was not made to take a huge beating on stock internals.

So expect to go with forged rods and pistons and heavy valves if so.

I do have an older vf39 that would work great on that car and not blow it up hahaha.

Although im really looking forward to doing a G35 turbo project, since you can find them down here for soo cheap.

 

So you're close but not quiet. I'm more a datsun specialist. The 510 came with an l16 for the most part which has 106 hp.

As far as building a Ka-T. It's something I'll do over time but yes, it would all have to be forged etc but honestly, you could get away with a low psi turbo setup and it's very simple to do. The most straining part would be drilling into the actual block for the oil feed line. I'll probably run a t3 because I don't need much power out of it. It's still a thought I'm tinkering with because a ka isn't the most reliable motor.

 

I currently have this setup in my 510. This is a good before and after. I know I may seem like i know nothing but my area of specialties is classics. I've owned quite a few of older jdm cars and love em. a G35 super charger would be easier but yes, turbos are the best of both worlds undoubtedly.

 

BACK TO THE SUBIE.

 

Thank you for the info max, I'll be sure to make sure that everything is properly sealed and done with the proper compounds!

 

I'll keep my AOS how it's working atm because it's already catching some sludge so I'm assuming I've done it correctly. I also had to purchase a 2.25 to 3 inch inlet for the turbo because, surprisingly, the 2.5 was too big but that shouldn't be much of an issue. My main concern is that inlet works because the ATP cast intake has an s shaped inlet as I've shown and I really want to make sure this works before I take everything apart.

 

NOW FOR SOME NEW PROBLEMS.

 

I decided to install the MT cluster into the car but the car didn't start after installing it. I'm worried why because I saw another guy do it in a different thread and I'd REALLY like to run the MT cluster. I know it's something to do with the immobilizer but what can I do to fix this.

 

NEXT. I installed a BRAND NEW Aem intake which is 2.75 inch opposed to the crappy beat up one I have on the car now that's 3inch. The car didnt work with this intake and it even pinged. Can someone explain this? Isn't the maf supposed to account for any differences? And with that said, I reset the ecu too.

 

More updates to come soon! thanks a ton!

[TickerPyro]

Mos, i though you were going to dropping a G20 on that 510. I was awars that the l16 only made 105hp, just typed wrong. My mother owned one until i was 12 and i loved the thing.

Yes a G35 is a great car to drop a turbo on and run 10psi out of. In FL you can pick up a solid G35 for like 4-5k and then spend 1500-2k on a decent turbo setup. And have a nice 350-400 horse car for 7k.

 

As for the Subaru, dropping to a 2.5 inch inlet should not restrict that much flow, and you def should not get a ping from it. Is this pre-det ping? I cant imagine a slight drop in air volume is going to spark off like that. Mostly predet is timing got way advanced or the gas is not super (even then ot will still run) You also said you reset the ECU. What did you use to do that, and did that fix the ping issue?

[Mosubi]

Mos, i though you were going to dropping a G20 on that 510. I was awars that the l16 only made 105hp, just typed wrong. My mother owned one until i was 12 and i loved the thing.

Yes a G35 is a great car to drop a turbo on and run 10psi out of. In FL you can pick up a solid G35 for like 4-5k and then spend 1500-2k on a decent turbo setup. And have a nice 350-400 horse car for 7k.

 

As for the Subaru, dropping to a 2.5 inch inlet should not restrict that much flow, and you def should not get a ping from it. Is this pre-det ping? I cant imagine a slight drop in air volume is going to spark off like that. Mostly predet is timing got way advanced or the gas is not super (even then ot will still run) You also said you reset the ECU. What did you use to do that, and did that fix the ping issue?

 

That sounds like a fun build! I’d love to see it if you get around to it.

It’s 2.75 to 3 inch too which confuses me even more lol. I’m not sure how to decipher a predet ping but it pinged at idle? And then I decided to put my 3inch intake that I originally had right back on. After that, the car ran perfectly fine. This alone fixed the ping issue entirely.

 

Then I got a check engine light from trying to install the MT cluster. It’s something to do with the immobilizer. I used the AP to rest the ecu at this point but no luck really. I’m just trying to get this damn thing to co-op with me.

[Max Capacity]

Do you need the BIU with the MT instrument panel ? I only know what I've read on here years ago.

 

Someone who's good with that type stuff may know better. covertrussian or may even BarManBean

[TickerPyro]

Mos, are you saying this was an auto and you are trying to drop in a MT cluster and it wont unlock. Like pulling a car from park to drive?

[Mosubi]

Mos, are you saying this was an auto and you are trying to drop in a MT cluster and it wont unlock. Like pulling a car from park to drive?

 

This car used to be AT and now it’s MT. I’d like to install the MT cluster but I must go to the dealer and get them to actually marry the ignition cylinder to the cluster for it to work properly.

 

That’ll just have to wait. I still have a few other things I’d like to get done anyways.

 

I also got my speed density kit installed on the pipe going to the throttle body.

[Mosubi]

I didn't forget this forum or this car! I've just been super busy with school. I might get an etune just for something quick because my car is running like shit then I'll do a full dyno tune during the summer when my car is turbo swapped etc.

[Max Capacity]

The e-tune is a good idea, don't wait to long.

[Mosubi]

The e-tune is a good idea, don't wait to long.

 

I’m hoping to get it done in the next few weeks. I’m gonna do a run down to make sure I have no exhaust leaks or boost leaks then do the tune.

[Mosubi]

I got the etune but he needs to make some quick fixes.

 

Lately the car hasnt been running well at all.

The car seems to shake back and forth or chatter almost whenever I'm 2-3k and I'm completely lost about what it could be? It's the strangest thing. Almost like you're letting off the clutch in first and letting the car wobble through.

[Max Capacity]

If the old Map was better go back to that until you get a new Map.

[Mosubi]

If the old Map was better go back to that until you get a new Map.

 

Well I haven’t been able to run the new map just yet cuz the tune wouldn’t read onto ecu so I told michael and he’s trying to figure that out. This is just random.

[TickerPyro]

I got the etune but he needs to make some quick fixes.

 

Lately the car hasnt been running well at all.

The car seems to shake back and forth or chatter almost whenever I'm 2-3k and I'm completely lost about what it could be? It's the strangest thing. Almost like you're letting off the clutch in first and letting the car wobble through.

 

Remember back like 3 months ago i mentoined that clutch fork pivot (you said you had never heard of)?

Was just wondering if you got that all fixed up, as well as doing the tranny mount bushings with new poly instead of rubber.

Is it every gear at 2-3k? Is it a predet knock that could be associated with a tune, like a timing adv on accel? I have you checked the clutch since the issue before (sounds like something is not flush on acceleration on the clutch side, but could well be a timiming/fuel issue.

Hope this helps.