Mosubi Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 Gonna install my accessport as soon as car is up again. Any recommendations? I was just planning to use a magnet mount and then tuck the plug to the obdII and see what's on the ap. The guy previously said it was a base map but the check engine came on after he smogged it which means im assuming he probably flashed the ecu? Not entirely sure. I'm so excited to get this thing going! The slave should be in by tonight so I'll get er done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Get your slave tipped up, then bleed, and make sure it is super tight. These cars do not have much for play once you cover the initial spring push. You should check the clutch through the peek hole if you haven't yet. And if you insist on running a stock clutch, let me know about the other one. Im 97k on my original so need to pull this baby out, resurface the FW and get a new clutch disc in. But i have a feeling you will like a stg2 clutch with a nice clean tune. Also, you said the AP is stock tune. I urge you not to use that for any reason. Since you are a vf52 and prettymuch same as myself, i will send mine if you need for the moment. It is a super fun tune, but has a ton of torque. Milage drops off a bit as well hehehe. Best of luck with that bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I don't leave the AP attached to the car, but that's just that I don't want to risk hitting it with my foot. Just to verify, this is a Cobb AP v2 or v3 ? Not a old v1. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 brittanys@tuningalliance.com gets some sick deals on all kinds of parts for the leggy...She saved my butt a couple times....plus some guidance on where to go next with your build and what is more beneficial to the build is good too..... Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Get your slave tipped up, then bleed, and make sure it is super tight. These cars do not have much for play once you cover the initial spring push. You should check the clutch through the peek hole if you haven't yet. And if you insist on running a stock clutch, let me know about the other one. Im 97k on my original so need to pull this baby out, resurface the FW and get a new clutch disc in. But i have a feeling you will like a stg2 clutch with a nice clean tune. Also, you said the AP is stock tune. I urge you not to use that for any reason. Since you are a vf52 and prettymuch same as myself, i will send mine if you need for the moment. It is a super fun tune, but has a ton of torque. Milage drops off a bit as well hehehe. Best of luck with that bleed. I looked into my AP today and I found that I have two tunes on there. With that said, I'm not precisely sure how to install. I'm assuming just plug into OBDII and then flash my ecu with the tune. After completed, rmeove the AP so no one steals my valuable. As far as bleeding, I used the c clamp method WHICH WORKED and I got the car into gear etc again and felt GREAT but then as soon as I got down from the driveway, the pedal was fully moving but I wasnt getting into gears and I felt some play on the pedal. I'm assuming I have to bleed it on the car at this point. I'm just happy the issue was bleeding. I'll keep the stock clutch just in-case but I may be keeping the stage 2 to see how it works out. I'll peak into the clutch too. Thanks for all the advice! I'll let you know when I get the vf52. That's extremely kind of you. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 I don't leave the AP attached to the car, but that's just that I don't want to risk hitting it with my foot. Just to verify, this is a Cobb AP v2 or v3 ? Not a old v1. I'm assuming this is v2 as the code is ap-sub-002. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 AS FAR AS AN UPDATE I'm going to install the turbo timer the car came with because it could be useful and I loved the one i had in my wrx. With that said, I need help installing. Everything is pretty much there already but I'm unsure of what exactly this purple wire is for and it'll be all i need. Pics attached. I'm also not sure if there's some other line that's missing where that hole is next to the wire side with the pins. Also not sure of what the A and B option are? I've also opened up my accesport and saw that I had two tunes on there so I'm going to run them and see if the car performs any better etc. Just TO MAKE SURE. I can basically plug in the accessport, then after i flash my ecu with the tune, I can remove it and keep it somewhere safe, correct? As far as the car actually moving ( DAMMIT ), I bled the slave with a c clamp and it worked pretty well! I got feeling back into my clutch pedal and it was moving well but after I drove the car down the driveway, the same issue happened but this time, the pedal didnt get stuck to the floor, it was only just stuck in neutral and I was unable to get into gear. I'm assuming that I have to bleed it more and probably on the car at this point. I'm super excited for everything and I'm so close! Here's some pics and I'll take plenty more when I get closer to where I want to be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 The turbo timer is not needed. I'm not electrical, so would not attempt to install it without complete instructions...besides these cars don't need one. Water cooled turbo. After a long highway drive, I coast down the off ramp to let the turbo cool. It doesn't need much. 30 seconds or so. Yea that's the same AP both my cars have, they stay in the box on the floor in the back seat. To flash a new map you need to plug in the two green connectors under the glove box, un-plug them after the reflash before you start the car. Read the info on Cobb's site. Nice car, here's mine, here's with the big exhaust, Y back 2.5" pipe's, magnaflow knock off's and Dynamax 12' tips cut back to be short enough. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Nice rides guys. Someone has to buff those headlights heheeheh. Is the splitter a jdm one? As per turbo timer, these turbos run very nice and i have not seen any oil burn or any buildup on 100K+. I used to see tons of honda builds with ball bearing turbos and although it was plumbed correctly, they gummed up but this was 2000ish and guys using turbos from early 90's mazdas or toyotas. As for the clutch issue, you should be able to roll a little and get it into first then go up gears (if you have room to do it). If you are stuck in Neutral then im assuming your TOB is not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 The turbo timer is not needed. I'm not electrical, so would not attempt to install it without complete instructions...besides these cars don't need one. Water cooled turbo. After a long highway drive, I coast down the off ramp to let the turbo cool. It doesn't need much. 30 seconds or so. Yea that's the same AP both my cars have, they stay in the box on the floor in the back seat. To flash a new map you need to plug in the two green connectors under the glove box, un-plug them after the reflash before you start the car. Read the info on Cobb's site. Nice car, here's mine, [ATTACH]259003[/ATTACH] here's with the big exhaust, Y back 2.5" pipe's, magnaflow knock off's and Dynamax 12' tips cut back to be short enough. [ATTACH]259004[/ATTACH] This is some great info. Thank you. Car looks ******* fantastic!! Those two wires under my dash are already hanging out so I know exactly what you’re talking about. I’ll probably get the car going then I’ll actually put my AP in and check the tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Nice rides guys. Someone has to buff those headlights heheeheh. Is the splitter a jdm one? As per turbo timer, these turbos run very nice and i have not seen any oil burn or any buildup on 100K+. I used to see tons of honda builds with ball bearing turbos and although it was plumbed correctly, they gummed up but this was 2000ish and guys using turbos from early 90's mazdas or toyotas. As for the clutch issue, you should be able to roll a little and get it into first then go up gears (if you have room to do it). If you are stuck in Neutral then im assuming your TOB is not working. I know I need to buff the lights but I’ll get around to it and the next coming weeks lol. It’s so time consuming unfortunately. I may not need the turbo timer but if it’s already all wired up besides one wire, It seems logical to just put it on incase I don’t let my turbo cool off? It may not be necceary but I don’t see the harm. I had some oil in my intercooler piping as well which scares me to shit but either way, vf52 soon. I don’t think it’s the TOB specifically because the clutch pedal sunk all the way down and after I installed a new slave cyldiner, the pedal has pressure again. This makes me believe that the issue isn’t anything internal but rather hydraulic. If it’s the TOB, I’ll be pretty disappointed but either way, just want the car done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 For the head lights I found the 3M kit at NAPA worker better then the Mothers kit I used up over the years. The 3M kit was more money. A light film of oil in the piping is ok. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 For the head lights I found the 3M kit at NAPA worker better then the Mothers kit I used up over the years. The 3M kit was more money. A light film of oil in the piping is ok. Didn’t know this! Will keep in mind. Thanks man! As far as 3M kit, I just got my drill from my hometown so I’ll get started on it in the next coming weeks. Getting clutch replaced by a friend in a week because I have no time. It turned out to be something past the hydraulics so it’s probably ideal to change it all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 You may want to check the TOB fork for cracks. Have him put a light coat of high temp grease on the snout where the TOB slides and in where the pilot bearing spins on the input shaft. Motul Gear 300 is the recommended fluid for the 5mt. 3.8 qt's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Could be Diaphragm, Fork/TOB release, or even the fork hinge. Id like to know what you come up with. And remember, if you replace that clutch face let me know how much you want for it before it hits open market If you are game of course hehehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Could be Diaphragm, Fork/TOB release, or even the fork hinge. Id like to know what you come up with. And remember, if you replace that clutch face let me know how much you want for it before it hits open market If you are game of course hehehe. I've never heard of the actual throw out bearing or the hinge having problems so by all means, I'm praying that this isnt the issue because I need the car done ASAP and my friend whos doing the clutch for me doesnt have much time either. Being a college student involved in cars isnt always the best idea I suppose but oh well. I'll let you know what happens with the clutch without a doubt. It's a stage 2 southbend that's currently in there. Pretty good piece of work. I'll surely let him know for the grease. This isn't our first clutch so I'm sure overall, things should be alright but we'll see what ends up happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Also, SVX replied so I can hopefully get the radio harness and get my car going with a radio and AC again which is too exciting for me lol I got my AVOjdm HVAC panel in the mail today and I'm stoked about it! Getting my nardi for the car rewrapped in the coming weeks too! I'm so excited about this! Gonna be an awesome daily driver without a doubt! Just to get the harness from SVx now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Does a slave cyldiner from a 2.5 fit into the gt? They’re identical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Thinking about it, I would not be surprised if it did work on a GT. It's the same basic set up. Check the auto parts stores web sites and see if they are the same parts numbers 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Thinking about it, I would not be surprised if it did work on a GT. It's the same basic set up. Check the auto parts stores web sites and see if they are the same parts numbers That’s the thing. They’re different part numbers but as far as action, they’re the same exact thing. I’m using one right now so I guess we’ll find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 In the sticky's up top on this forum is a link to Vendor parts web sites. I use this one a lot. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-GT-Wagon-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD/_52445_6027256/MT--CLUTCH/B13-100-02.html The 2.5i 2006 Legacy 5mt uses 30620AA111. $45.58 The 2006 GT 5mt use 30620AA142 $40.72 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 In the sticky's up top on this forum is a link to Vendor parts web sites. I use this one a lot. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-GT-Wagon-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD/_52445_6027256/MT--CLUTCH/B13-100-02.html The 2.5i 2006 Legacy 5mt uses 30620AA111. $45.58 The 2006 GT 5mt use 30620AA142 $40.72 I understand that it's a different part number but are they compatible? I have the 2.5 installed on my car and I'm curious to if theres an issue with it or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 If you look at the pictures of both, they look a lot alike. Time will tell. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Master cylinder and slave are both different numbers from i and GT. I think one is canted a tad and the master has a shorter throw for the GT. Is the master cylinder screw cable tight enough to work properly? If it is too tight, it will always keep pressure on the fork, and if it is too loose, it will not engage. This is the threaded part under the dash that has the pin through it connecting through the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosubi Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 Master cylinder and slave are both different numbers from i and GT. I think one is canted a tad and the master has a shorter throw for the GT. Is the master cylinder screw cable tight enough to work properly? If it is too tight, it will always keep pressure on the fork, and if it is too loose, it will not engage. This is the threaded part under the dash that has the pin through it connecting through the firewall. As far as the master, I have the correct one. The slave is the one I'm having thoughts about but as Max said, time will tell. However, thank you for the info! This is all valuable retaining information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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