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Help- P0011 code


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Hello,

My I recently (today) purchased a 2008 spec.B Suddenly the CEL came on so I took it to auto zone to get a code read since it was 1.0 miles away. They said it has a code that reads P0011. (OCV) so I drove it home 4 miles very slowly and carefully and parked it. It's running fine but the CEL Spooked me. spoke to a mechanic and he said the part is about $100 or so from the dealer and he doesn't know what the labor cost would be just yet? Any clue if it's necessary to remove the turbo? Or what it might cost to have someone do it? He also said I could drive it to his shop? Should I get it towed? Any feedback is very much appreciated. Not exactly how I wanted to spend the fisrt day of owning a subaru I've always wanted. Thanks -Tony

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Don't drive it, don't even turn it on until you know for sure whats going on. Unfortunately there seem to be a lot of threads popping up about these codes recently.

 

Here are my threads going through the same thing you're going through:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-noisei-help-me-diagnose-260754.html

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/much-too-muchi-262756.html?t=262756

 

Also to note, the P0011/P0021 codes won't light up the CEL until the car's gone through 2 driving cycles (as far as I know).

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Sorry buddy, odds are you just got robbed. Almost exactly one of these "I bought it yesterday and the CEL came on today" #YNANSB incidents per week shows up on this forum.

Does the turbo look new?

 

There is a slight possibility you really just need a new OCV, which is no big deal at all, but find out more before driving the car.

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As the other guys said, don't jump to the conclusion the cause of this code is a bad OCV. The root cause is in the oiling system and can indicate potential engine damage, depending on your car's history. You'll need to investigate and troubleshoot the issue before driving the car anywhere.

 

It could be just the OCV, but unfortunately it is usually more complicated.

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When I got it - it was just a bad AVCS solenoid. It does take 2 cycles for it to turn into a full-blown CEL, but if you have a code scanner it will show up as a pending code way before the light comes on.

 

My suggestion:

Step 1 - If you have banjo filters in the oil lines, remove them or get them removed (search around on the forum for what they are). The passenger side 2 are pretty easy to get to, driver's side 1 is a lot of work. This you should have done regardless of any other issues as good insurance (if the '08 even has them, '05 definitely does).

 

Step 2 - Then you (or your mechanic) can diagnose the solenoids by swapping left and right sides. If you swap them and the code changes to P0021, then you've got a bad solenoid. If it stays with P0011, the OCV mechanism system inside the cam sprocket probably needs cleaning. They can get dirty and gunk up and stop working.

 

There's not much else to cause this besides the banjo filters, AVCS solenoids, and OCV mechanism itself. SO - if you remove banjo filters, swap or replace AVCS solenoid, and clean the OCV mechanism...that's about all that can be done, and one or all of those should fix it.

 

The code means 'over advanced'. I've logged this thing quite a bit and on mine at least it showed up as the solenoid was working, but it was quite sluggish as compared to the other side, so when the computer sees that split second where it is is slower to react and over-advanced timing compared to the ECU's map for the AVCS Intake angle, then it throws the code. Mine, at least, was never completely non-functional. Just slower than your average bear to function, showing it was getting oil flow of some sort all the time.

 

Also it is VERY easy to change these solenoids. Labor shouldn't be more than 1 hr. (really 30 min, but they never charge < 1hr). Banjo filter removal, eh probably 20 minutes on the passenger side, maybe a couple hours on the driver's side since they should take the intake cam sprocket off to get to it properly.

 

Just my experience anyways. I got this fixed in an afternoon in my driveway about two weeks ago, and have driven it 2000 trouble free miles so far afterwards.

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. Basically: I'm confident the previous owner was well aware of the code and what it implied and probably cleared the code before you got the car; only to have the CEL light up after you've already driven off.

 

Actually, being the previous owner of this car I can honestly say that I have never had a CEL on this car in the past 6 years that I have owned it. Him and his brother test drove the vehicle Sunday, no problems. Parked the car overnight. I drove it 30 minutes to him Monday for inspection by his mechanic and then back home, no problem. I drove it 30 minutes to the DEQ by his house and then to his bank, no problem. He gave me a ride back into Portland, 30 minutes driving, no problems.

 

Don't start pointing fingers at me because that car had 0 codes or issues the entirety of my ownership.

 

 

Tony, I am sorry this happened on the first day but as I have told you, I have never driven this car hard or tracked it so there should be absolutely no reason for engine damage. In fact, the 30 minutes if test driving you and your brother pulled the car harder than I ever did.

 

Hopefully it's a quick easy fix and just an OCV.

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Actually, being the previous owner of this car I can honestly say that I have never had a CEL on this car in the past 6 years that I have owned it. Him and his brother test drove the vehicle Sunday, no problems. Parked the car overnight. I drove it 30 minutes to him Monday for inspection by his mechanic and then back home, no problem. I drove it 30 minutes to the DEQ by his house and then to his bank, no problem. He gave me a ride back into Portland, 30 minutes driving, no problems.

 

Don't start pointing fingers at me because that car had 0 codes or issues the entirety of my ownership.

 

 

Tony, I am sorry this happened on the first day but as I have told you, I have never driven this car hard or tracked it so there should be absolutely no reason for engine damage. In fact, the 30 minutes if test driving you and your brother pulled the car harder than I ever did.

 

Hopefully it's a quick easy fix and just an OCV.

 

Sorry about that, didn't mean to point fingers or accuse you, I just made an assumption based on the information.

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If there was a problem with the car, I am one of the last people who would dump it on somebody. I would have taken the trade offer on our new XT and let the stealership deal with it or fix it and sell it.
Great news. This is the first time I've seen a seller show up to one of these threads.

OP, you may well be one of the lucky ones.

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Got it fixed! Pretty easy to fix minus moving all the crap surrounding it. Thanks everyone for the help. Brendan I never thought you knew about it and just passed it off on me. I called you right after it happened and you were nice enough to answer and point me in the direction of this forum I appreciate it. Again thanks everyone for the info.
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Got it fixed! Pretty easy to fix minus moving all the crap surrounding it. Thanks everyone for the help. Brendan I never thought you knew about it and just passed it off on me. I called you right after it happened and you were nice enough to answer and point me in the direction of this forum I appreciate it. Again thanks everyone for the info.
Good to hear Tony, glad it was a quick easy fix!

 

Enjoy the Spec!

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Glad to hear it's fixed. Mine seems good after swapping OCV aides and replacing the passenger side AVCS I threw p0021 making me think OCV was bad now on the driver side, originally passenger side when p0011 came up. I've now replaced it and haven't thrown a code yet.
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Glad to hear it's fixed. Mine seems good after swapping OCV aides and replacing the passenger side AVCS I threw p0021 making me think OCV was bad now on the driver side, originally passenger side when p0011 came up. I've now replaced it and haven't thrown a code yet.

So how long does it take to throw a code? I keep hearing two drive cycles of 15 miles or something like that? I've turned it on and off and drove it almost 50 miles already. It woulda came on already right?

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Sorry for all the questions. I'm brand new to subaru. I drove Volkswagens growing up. When something went wrong you diagnose it yourself and fix it that I don't miss hahaha kinda nice having a computer tell you where the problem is. That's half the battle! *Cheers*
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Sorry for all the questions. I'm brand new to subaru. I drove Volkswagens growing up. When something went wrong you diagnose it yourself and fix it that I don't miss hahaha kinda nice having a computer tell you where the problem is. That's half the battle! *Cheers*

 

You can download the vacation pics here:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html

 

Very informative. There is a section describing all the diagnostic trouble codes and their detection criteria. Another section has troubleshooting procedures.

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And you could also look into the btssm app. With it, you'll be able to log multiple ecu parameters live. For instance, there are two parameters that monitor the VVT angles (dictated by the OCVs). These two numbers should always be identical or very close to each other at all times. If one OCV is acting up, it will show up right away on the app where both VVTs values will be completely out of sync.
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I've always tossed them when I thought one would come inside of 25 miles and 2 starts and stops. Now I live in a city so drives can be short, I'd imagine you could throw then on one cycle of about 25 miles
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So I can now say I neat p0011. Started by replacing passenger side AVCS, which was gross inside the mechanism, and swapped OCV after flow testing. Reason for the swap was to see if p0011 came back or p0021. P0021 came meaning OVC was bad. Brand new one from Halsey Auto Parts too....going to have a word with them. Replaced with OCV from Wentoworth and 75 miles, and 4 times driving no more codes. Hope this is helpful.
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  • 4 months later...
Oh save me fine gentlemen and ladies present. After 2 hours of searching I have finally found out what a ovc and asvc are. But I need help in the swapping of the asvc to check the CEL again. Any dismantling picture instructions? Chilton's isn't being helpful enough.
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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks @Maximum Capacity. I read another thread about swapping the asvc. To be clear, I am not swapping the asvc rods/pipes but the ovc that is contained within.

 

After that turn the car on and see if the p0011 has switched to a p0021, correct?

 

Also not this thread specific, is there a specific engine monitor that is preferred around here? Right now I'm just using OBD Torque Lite.

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Thanks @Maximum Capacity. I read another thread about swapping the asvc. To be clear, I am not swapping the asvc rods/pipes but the ovc that is contained within.

 

After that turn the car on and see if the p0011 has switched to a p0021, correct?

 

Also not this thread specific, is there a specific engine monitor that is preferred around here? Right now I'm just using OBD Torque Lite.

 

 

yes the code should switch to that one.

 

Regarding ecu monitoring, I strongly encourage you to look at the Btssm app. It has been specifically designed to work with our engines. This app has even been made by one of our forum members. Look into it.

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