cseagle08

Many of the OB guys are getting the premium and limited models and installing the Touring's (and JDM's) lower roof rails. The lower ones cost in the hundreds of dollars. Which is cheaper than the difference of touring over limited. And I do almost completely stop/go/traffic/city (sub 30mph) driving with my '18 3.6, and I'm sitting right at 20mpg, lol.

Potential red flags: "It has an occasional misfire, it's probably just the coil pack" "New Turbo" "Overheated but replaced X and it's ok" "It just quit running one day, I think it's just a sensor"

Blend door operation. Damn things get clicky when they get old.

And they are awesome! (have them on my 3.6R limited OB)

They did mine down here in Orlando a couple weeks ago. They went through the cubby solely.

I know i'm interrupting mid story, but did you ever find out what code it lit up before the turbo peaced out?

I don't see why it'd be any different from the regular LGT '05 ecu. The engines and drive-trains are the same.

Granted it's not ideal per-se, but I'm running the stock USDM map, no exhaust avcs connected, and a VF40 on my EJ20X and it runs absolutely perfect! I only tuned out the DTC for TGVs and that was it. I don't know if I manually tuned it that it'd get any better. I originally bought a JDM ECU also but no one in Orlando wanted to program the immobilizer so I just worked with what I had on the US one. I haven't opened them up, but I bet you could flash the JDM map onto the US ECU. The pins are probably connected internally just not read for the exhaust AVCS. May be worth a shot?

Long shot but throwing it out there. Have a wingless in OBP but needs repainting. Want a winged! In central FL

Another reference point: I spent around 1,600 and 3 weekends pulling the motor and replacing it with a 40k-50k mile used engine myself.

Good point, lol.

If you're having someone else do it, with new parts. I wouldn't be surprised if it was $4K+ by time your all said and done. By yourself might could get under 3K. Depends on how much has to be rebuilt (short block vs long block, new vs old turbo etc)

Good point, will do.

I am quite literally in the middle of this same swap on my 05 LGT Sedan. I have a JDM ECU I'm hoping will plug up and run with the appropriate immobilizer programming. I stuck with the JDM intake manifold and connections because they all hooked up fine. But I am using the US VF40 turbo/intercooler/header/up and down pipes so that'll be less parts to buy. I've got the new motor in the car, replaced the entire cooling system and hooked it up, mostly just waiting on fluid changes and lengthening the JDM harness to connect to the main plug on the opposite side of the car. Hopefully this weekend have a running car.

I've got another car (non subaru) that is doing that same thing. Once it starts there's no real way to make it stop. I've heard people say they have used Goo Off or a scotch brite pad and soap but it'll just keep coming back over time. I think it's just degrading in the heat and sun. +1 to a sunshade to make it last as long as possible and keep it from fading out.

I would probably remove the battery from the device (if possible) if I were to run it from the car battery-plugged up constantly. I'm a little concerned with the the battery being continuously plugged up for weeks, months, years. Since it will be constantly, and for very long periods of time, draining/charging there's always a possibility of heating up and battery failure. Just one of those 'it wasn't designed that way' kinda things.

I'm SO IN! Been wanting this for 3 years now!

cseagle08 (Orange Park) 2009 Legacy 2.5i SE - sedan - Quartz Silver Metallic...Finally got out of Baltimore!

Sorry mid-atlantic. I have since moved back down to Florida. So i suppose remove me from the list: cseagle08 (White Marsh) 2009 Legacy 2.5i SE - sedan While I quite enjoyed actually driving in the snow, living in it was another story. Still use the AWD awesomeness for driving on the beach now!

I've got black cloth from 2009 2.5i SE. Anyone Interested? I've already got leather in it, so this would be for sale, not trade.

Consistent 34 hwy. 26 city. 22 city sitting in stop/go baltimore traffic to and from work

cseagle08 White Marsh, Maryland 2009 2.5i SE Sedan Quartz Silver Metallic I'm already in there, just a correction...moved recently

Software Engineer here: On the temperature questions. If you're wanting to have a reliable system and you live in that sort of environment then a solid state drive is definitely going to be the way to go for (yet again) "reliable" performance in all conditions, as well as the constant vibration of driving. The temperature ranges are because electrical components could begin to condensate in that low of a temperature range (10 degree air, 140-ish degree processor) depending on the amount of moisture in the air, on surfaces, etc. Now, with all that said whatever you put together could run for 10 years and never have an issue. There's no way of knowing for sure without lots of testing. ...Just some thoughts...

Wow, good job man. But, that much work and I'd just learn to live with the rattle or turn up the radio. That's insane.