Berge56 Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I use this website as they have quick shipping and are only 1 state away. They also have great pricing. The OCV's are 100 and change on their website. https://www.subarupartsauthority.com/ I've seen these OCV's cause stupid issues and some people have had luck cleaning them. I've always had to replace them and it did solve hesitation and misfire issues for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Now why do you guys gotta go and give me hope!? I had planned on selling the car in the spring but now I have to try swapping my LH/RH valves and see if my problem follows the valve. Seriously though, at this point, I'll try just about anything. But this could absolutely be something that manifests in the cold. And I could see it causing the P0340 code in my case as well. Once I get over covid I'll try pulling the valves and see where it leads. Thanks for the info! $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Thanks for sharing that tid bit of info. I hope that we don't have to go to that point as well - the money drop on parts gets rather tiring. I am curious why this is the first that I've heard about that part in specific being a possible solution (maybe I haven't searched enough?). 10921AA080 - Valve Assembly Oil Contro That is the OEM part number and name that I've been able to find. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/ Has a very nice price compared to direct from the dealership, but there are others that have virtually identical prices too, so shop around. Hey, just wanted to reach to see if you had any luck fixing your issue. Also, just to confirm....the code you get is P0340, right? Thanks, $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not12listen Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 (edited) Hey, just wanted to reach to see if you had any luck fixing your issue. Also, just to confirm....the code you get is P0340, right? Thanks, $$$ The final parts are set to arrive today, and I'll be installing everything this weekend. I'll report back the results after a few days. Of note, something that helped to reduce the misfires, was to replace the fuel pressure regulator. There is no hard & fast rule per when to replace them. Once you notice your fuel economy starts dropping noticeably. https://mechanicbase.com/engine/fuel-pressure-regulator-symptoms/ ---- Just as an update: all the parts are in my hands. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-valve-assembly-oil-control~10921aa080.html That is the AVCS for my 2006 WRX. Of note, when I called the local Subaru dealership, they could not get near that price - as in, they quoted $184 per, and would only offer a 10% discount. The next local Subaru dealership priced them at $135 per. Needless to say, if you are going to order them, the 'cost' price is around $92-$94 each. Just keep in mind that shipping times will likely be longer than what is stated, so order accordingly. Edited February 4, 2022 by not12listen More info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not12listen Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 (edited) Yes, I was getting the P0340. The task is complete. I was able to replace both AVCS devices and both cam position sensors. It was not the most difficult task, but it was mildly annoying. A healthy dose of dielectric grease was used on every electrical connector that I could get too. While doing this one of the PCV hoses decide it hated being in 1 piece and decided to break into 3 pieces. YAY! New hose was installed and new worm gear clamps were gifted wherever possible. The result? Starts and idles perfectly. Warm-up is normal. Driving at low speeds and low RPMs is normal. And then we get to the dreaded highway... Not only was the power delivery smoother, but it was more consistent! I was doing a data log purely for the sake of it as well, just in case something went awry. It hit 15psi - stock turbo, Cobb 3-port boost control solenoid, and stock everything else (both cats, 100% of the exhaust, etc). I have to say, this is absolutely the best it has ever felt! It has to be noted that this was only a 3 mile drive in total. I'll be monitoring it and report back at the end of this week if anything changes. Word to the wise: If you're going to replace the AVCS devices, it wouldn't hurt to replace the cam position sensors at the same time. I had to pull the battery out (easier access), so the ECU was reset. Edited February 5, 2022 by not12listen Details! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not12listen Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Quick update. Just around 83 miles since the work was done. Zero CELs, zero issues, stutters, bucking, etc. Just smooth and consistent power & wonderful engine response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berge56 Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Glad to hear the OCV's worked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 But you replaced both sensors and both OCVs at the same time, right? So it's not clear what the actual root cause was, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not12listen Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 But you replaced both sensors and both OCVs at the same time, right? So it's not clear what the actual root cause was, correct? That is correct. If I had to venture a guess, it would be the AVCS's. Those actually move, whereas the cam position sensors do not, meaning (to me) they are more likely to fail. I replaced all 4 devices as I don't have time to worry about only replacing the AVCS's and then the issue returns (ie. if the cam position sensors really were the point of failure), as this is my daily driver and how I get kiddo around. The downtime is far more negatively impacting VS the money spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berge56 Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 In my situation I believe I replaced the cam sensor first, It was bad, but I still had the hesitation and random misfire code. Once I replaced both OCV's car drove like new again. It's been 30k miles since doing this and the car still drives great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 In my situation I believe I replaced the cam sensor first, It was bad, but I still had the hesitation and random misfire code. Once I replaced both OCV's car drove like new again. It's been 30k miles since doing this and the car still drives great. Ok, good to know. I guess I'll start by swapping the parts from passenger side to driver side and see if the problem goes with either the OCV or the sensor. At least they're easy to get at. More soon. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Well, so the plan was to just swap the OCVs and see if the problem goes with the valve. First of all, let me say that the "engineers" who put that #$^$%@% bracket behind the OCV on the passenger side (coolant overflow tank bolts to this bracket) should go make french fries for a living. You can't get at the front bolt without removing the OCV. And you can't get at the back bolt at all because there's an air line nipple sticking up from the engine right in front of it. Utterly terrible design. So I broke the old OCV trying to get it out. Got a new one and put it in yesterday. Also swapped the cam position sensors while I was in there. Nothing fixed the problem. The fun part is, now I get a P0340 AND a P0345 code (previously, it was only the P0340). Same symptoms as above...car warms up, backfires and sputters, then once it's warm I can clear codes and it carries on just fine. F R U S T R A T E D ! ! ! ! $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Well, so the plan was to just swap the OCVs and see if the problem goes with the valve. First of all, let me say that the "engineers" who put that #$^$%@% bracket behind the OCV on the passenger side (coolant overflow tank bolts to this bracket) should go make french fries for a living. You can't get at the front bolt without removing the OCV. And you can't get at the back bolt at all because there's an air line nipple sticking up from the engine right in front of it. Utterly terrible design. So I broke the old OCV trying to get it out. Got a new one and put it in yesterday. Also swapped the cam position sensors while I was in there. Nothing fixed the problem. The fun part is, now I get a P0340 AND a P0345 code (previously, it was only the P0340). Same symptoms as above...car warms up, backfires and sputters, then once it's warm I can clear codes and it carries on just fine. F R U S T R A T E D ! ! ! ! $$$I'd do a leakdown test, this sounds like valve issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 I would be tempted to test out the TGVs at this point. They are one of the few things that are engaged when it's cold and are no longer part of the equation when it's warm. Could also check if the transition from running poorly to well aligns when the ECU switches from open loop to closed loop. The might provide some clues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 If the TGV's were the culprit, wouldn't I get some kind of code? Like a discrepancy between the actuator and the sensor? In any case, with no TGV related code, not sure how I would go about testing them. And I've already replaced the passenger side sensor. I have a few more ideas that I'm considering. I'll spare the details for now until I get to trying them out. Thanks for the feedback. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Hey gang, So I'm still getting this cold weather issue and I'm fast running out of time to figure it out because the warm weather is coming. I'm going to pull the injectors and clean them and replace the o-rings. But I'm thinking about just getting new injectors, in which case I would just get bigger ones to give me more headroom. My question is, do I need to tune the car for the new injectors immediately? Or will it work ok even with my current tune and bigger injectors. If it fixes the problem, I would finish the tune right away anyway, like within a couple of weeks. Thanks. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Hey gang, So I'm still getting this cold weather issue and I'm fast running out of time to figure it out because the warm weather is coming. I'm going to pull the injectors and clean them and replace the o-rings. But I'm thinking about just getting new injectors, in which case I would just get bigger ones to give me more headroom. My question is, do I need to tune the car for the new injectors immediately? Or will it work ok even with my current tune and bigger injectors. If it fixes the problem, I would finish the tune right away anyway, like within a couple of weeks. Thanks. $$$Need to tune for injectors immediately. Car will run very poorly without a tune on new injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Agreed. I bought a set of “740”s from a guy on EBay that ended up being 550s. The tune for 740s was not happy. Would have issues the other way as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 If you got roughly 30% larger injectors you could fill your tank with e85 and it might run ok if the pump could keep up. We used to play this game on the VW 1.8t platform. There is of course no reason to do this and it's a rather poor idea Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the feedback, folks. Looks like bigger injectors will have to wait. I'll start with replacing the o-rings and see if that solves my issue. Quick question, though.... I asked the local dealership for an o-ring kit, and he can only find one o-ring in his parts list. I thought there was two; the larger 20mm at the top of the injector and the smaller 8mm down near the "nozzle". Am I right? I'm looking for a part number for an o-ring kit but the dealership isn't much help. Any ideas? Cheers! $$$ Edit....Nevermind. Found this! https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injector-components/det-2-002-4-deatschwerks-side-feed-injector-ring-kit Edited March 16, 2022 by Paycheck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Yep, that's a good kit because it has both o-rings and the super lube to help ensure that the rings don't get pinched on installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 Yeah, I asked the dealership first, but they could only find a single o-ring in their parts list. (I think it was the larger, upper o-ring). The kit was $16. Shipping was $33. LMAO! At least I'll get what I need and in fairly short order. Any tips from someone who has done this before? Is there any trick to getting either o-ring on/off? I assume it's not complicated, but the fact that the dealership only has the one o-ring in their list makes me wonder. Thanks, $$$ P.S. And of course, I'll update once I get them installed and see if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 In my experience it's usually more of a challenge to remove the injector, than it is to swap the o-rings. I made a set of "pliers" from an old coat hanger. Basically made a long narrow rectangle with two hooked ends at 90 degrees to fit in the holes on the top of the injectors. Insert, pinch closed, and pull. When reinstalling, use good lube, and insert straight, it'll probably take a bit of a push to pop it into place. Then reinstall the cover plate and screw it down. Make sure the orientation of the plug is correct before pushing into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted March 17, 2022 Share Posted March 17, 2022 Lube is key....can't overdo it. You can underdo it and roll/pinch an o-ring. You won't be pleased with that scenario. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paycheck Posted March 18, 2022 Share Posted March 18, 2022 Thanks folks. I'll let you know how I make out. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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