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FAQ: Offsets, Sizes for Rims and Tires on the GT! Xenonk Version! - Vol 2


SBT

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Those 235/45/17 tires might be close to your fenders with that +38 offset, even if only a 17x7 wheel and at stock height.

 

With the preferred tire sizes you mention above you'll be fine in my experience. I'd probably go for it if I was you depending on cost.

 

What wheel is it out of curiosity?

 

I've had that tire on a 17x8 with a 35 offset and never rubbed on stock suspension even with my car fully loaded.

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There you go! It seems like a low offset, but I've never tried it.

 

You'd be amazed at what you can get away with on stock suspension. I test fit a 18x9.5 et38 with 245/35 tires and didn't rub at all. Just looked really monster truck and poked like mad haha

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I have a 2007 Legacy GT and has about 1.5" drop all around.

I found a set of rim at 17x8" with +42 offset. Is that going to fit without rolling fender or suspension work? Is it going to rub if I go with 225/45/17 tires?

 

If anyone has this set up before or any recommendation on tire size, please let me know. I just want to confirm before I jump on it.

 

I've read the Xenonk guide and it mentioned that lowest I can go is +43 offset.

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So based on willtheyfit.com - my setup compared to yours will be 6mm further from the suspension but will also poke 6mm more than before. I'm at about a 2" drop on 18x8 +48 with 225/40 18 blizzaks and do not rub. I think its safe to say that setup will be fine, although you might have to slightly camber the rear. At most a slight roll will be necessary, but certainly no pull.

 

If you have your current rim and tire size handy go onto willtheyfit.com and compare the 2 setups. You should be good to go.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'm getting 18x9.5 Aodhan DS02 5x100 +35 Black Vacuum Wheels with 235/40/18 tires. Will I need wheel spacers for clearance? It does have coil overs.

 

On your 2.5i, the last thing you'll want to add is spacers. +35 and 9.5" width puts you really close to the inside edge of the fender (which is lined with a metal-formed rubber cover), and 235/40/18s puts you even closer, if not beyond.

 

You may have to run camber arms to gain some negative camber at stock or near stock ride height, and you'll likely still have to roll and/or pull your fenders to make it fit without serious rubbing on compression/turns. Your choice of tire will affect this somewhat. Do read-up on what works/doesn't at the beginning of this sticky.

 

Dropped on the COs, you'll likely have some static negative camber, so you'll need to be careful to not hit the plastic liner above your COs on the inside of the wheel. Again, you'll need camber arms in order to regain control of your camber and keep from rubbing on both the outside and the inside of the tire.

 

However it works out, good luck with it all.

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18x10%20STR%20514%205x100/114.3%20GOLD%20WHEELI want them to go past the fender. I'm planning on running deep dished wheels all the way around, with fender flares. I am getting JDM adjustable coilovers before the tires & wheels. I'm not getting the wheel I previously mentioned, I'm wanting to get 18x10 STR 514 5x100/114.3 GOLD WHEEL.

 

s-l500.jpg

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Edited by RheaCo.Legacy
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The concave look will be nice. Just realize you've got some work and serious fender cutting and fender overrider fixing ahead to accommodate those wheels.
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I'll look good unless it's so negatively-cambered-out that the wheels ride on the inside of the contact patch. But, bottom line, you'll have to cut part of the fenders away for that to work. ;)
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Yes, you'll need camber and likely toe arms to control this. You'll have a fine balance between inner and outer room for that wide a tire.

 

18" plays into it, inasmuch as the 18" will hit higher on the inner wall, 17" will hit lower and may impinge the rear shock itself. The real issues are offset +35(?) or lower and wheel/tire width (10+").

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No to spacers if you're keeping the stock fender dimensions.

 

If you're cutting the fenders away to create clearance space, for the wheel tire, then spacers should be fine.

 

The only downside to wider wheels/tires and spacers, is that you'll likely be replacing wheel bearings more often than normal. Wide (9.5+ and Low offset +35 to +20) wheels have the same effect, it puts outside strain on the hub bearing assemblies, and they wear much faster.

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Well since this is my daily driver & I travel 35min to & from work everyday, I think I'll tank the wide wheel & fender flare Idea, & just buy an 18" wheel & tire that will tuck under the factory fender wells. If I go this route do you think I'll need the camber & toe kits?
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I have 18x8.5 +40 ADVANs with 235/40x18 MPS AS3es. I could not mount those without camber arms. Depending how much you drop the ride on COs, you'll gain negative static camber and you're going to rub on the inside. But your toe will always be off due to the static camber ranging.

 

It will come down to wheel and tire width. 18x8 +46 with 225/40x18s fit with no issues, and that setup would be happier with +50s. I'm lowered 1.25"F/1.5"R with 3/8" SBS, and you can see what it looks like with the ADVANs and MPS AS3es here

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I'll add to what has been said by SBT, additional things you're going to have to consider if you want to stay as a stock bodied car is how much camber you're willing to run and if you're willing to do fender work.

 

If you're okay with running the naturally gained negative camber from lowering your car, it seems like you'll be able to have the toe reasonably within the factory settings. However once you start changing the rear camber (front camber should be able to be changed using top hats with camber adjustment) you'll want to consider going with aftermarket camber and toe arms for the rear.

 

As for fender modifications you can do anything from a mild fender roll to an aggressive fender roll and pull for more outer clearance. If you end up going the fender flares route then I would recommend trying to find a set of wheels and tires in the specs that you want to run to determine the size of flare you want to run. Also in terms of spacers, I highly recommend trying to get a set of wheels with the offset you're desiring than trying to mimic a lower offset wheel. However if you do go through the spacer route, make sure they're hubcentric and from a reputable company. I've seen too many horror stories from poorly made spacers.

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Lowered on the Bilsteins and Swift Sports, I could not regain enough front camber with the stock camber bolts and the now too-short tie rod ends, which is why I added the WL KCA313 RCBS kit - that raised the roll center, regained camber and got toe back under control at the front.

 

From strictly a "static" perspective, depending on how much you lower on COs will determine how much ET and width you can accommodate, relative to the struts and fender (front) and inner wall and fender (rear). It will also determine how much bump steer you're willing to tolerate - which IME, is no fun. So how much you want to want to modify the suspension to accommodate less ET and more width will ultimately, be your call.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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