Building the perfect LGT

[solidxsnake]

There shouldn't be any reason to go to anything but OEM plugs, especially for a stock tune. Even at Stg2, OEM plugs are fine (that's what I'm running). I've read from a couple different tuners that you don't need one step colder until you're well beyond Stg2 levels.

[Max Capacity]

Having read that ^, I'm one that runs one step colder in both my cars.

 

They are cheaper and the cars run great. My Tuner also knows I'm one step colder.

[Sparkey]

Couple of questions as I get further into my build...

 

My biggest question is tuning and new parts. I need to tune after I put on new parts - but isnt it not safe to run WOT for a log and such without a tune? I have to be missing something obvious about how to properly add parts and get a tune. I have a new TMIC, new intake and vac hoses, GS 3 port EBCS, Up and Down pipe going on that I'm wanting a tune for.

 

I want to wrap/blanket my exhaust. I've read not to wrap the headers because of too much heat and wet and such causing issues sometimes but I'm unsure about the up/down pipes. My up is an OEM catless and I hear the heat shields rattle - trying to be proactive I was thinking about cutting those off and then wrapping the pipe. But then I read its not good to wrap the flex joint or any cats (If i get a catted downpipe) so that made me think about wrapping as much as I can, and then getting a blanket to cover the rest. Thoughts? More is better right?

 

Lastly, what is the difference between some Whiteline bushings? The LCA bushings have two numbers, they dont seem to explain much difference but theres quite a price difference. The other ones are the rear diff/cradle insert/outrigger bushings. Are these actually different locations or applications? One seems like a bushing "insert" that fill the stock voids I guess and the others are a full bushing?

 

Thanks!

[solidxsnake]

Couple of questions as I get further into my build...

 

My biggest question is tuning and new parts. I need to tune after I put on new parts - but isnt it not safe to run WOT for a log and such without a tune? I have to be missing something obvious about how to properly add parts and get a tune. I have a new TMIC, new intake and vac hoses, GS 3 port EBCS, Up and Down pipe going on that I'm wanting a tune for.

 

Essentially, yes, that's correct. IMO, people blow the whole "YOU NEED A TUNE OR THE CAR'S GOING TO EXPLODE IF YOU CHANGE ANYTHING" thing way out of proportion. If you change a bunch of parts and keep the car in closed loop (don't accelerate fast, don't run in boost, etc.... if you have a logger set up, you can see when the car is in closed/open loop), then you won't be doing anything particularly damaging to the car. Alternatively, you can flash a base map to the car to drive it safely before you bring it to your tuner (either for a road tune or a dyno tune). Generally the base maps will just zero out the wastegate tables (so you're never past wastegate boost pressure), and run conservative fueling and timing maps. The car may not run that great, but it won't hurt anything.

 

If you're looking at e-tuning, then you'd install the parts and ask for a base map, then work through revisions as your tuner suggest. Generally that will be some idling, light acceleration and cruising for them to dial in MAF scaling and fueling, and then once everything looks good, you'll probably start logging partial pulls followed by WOT pulls to get closed-loop fueling and peak power delivery tuned. If you're going for a dyno-tune, you're probably fine to just install the parts and drive the car lightly (again, in closed-loop) and you won't do any damage.

 

I think it's just easier to tell people that things will explode so bring it to a tuner instead of teaching them about how the cars actually work

 

 

Lastly, what is the difference between some Whiteline bushings? The LCA bushings have two numbers, they dont seem to explain much difference but theres quite a price difference. The other ones are the rear diff/cradle insert/outrigger bushings. Are these actually different locations or applications? One seems like a bushing "insert" that fill the stock voids I guess and the others are a full bushing?

 

Thanks!

 

Here's all the Whiteline suspension components for the LGT (thanks to Underdog for sending me this graphic):

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img746/2179/bwGsXp.jpg

 

For the front, There is regular LCA bushings, and then there's the two different anti-lift kit (which are offset bushings). On the rear diff, there are the inserts or the full replacement bushings.

[MTBwrench]

Couple of questions as I get further into my build...

 

My biggest question is tuning and new parts. I need to tune after I put on new parts - but isnt it not safe to run WOT for a log and such without a tune? I have to be missing something obvious about how to properly add parts and get a tune. I have a new TMIC, new intake and vac hoses, GS 3 port EBCS, Up and Down pipe going on that I'm wanting a tune for.

 

You first put on a "base map" that's loosely calibrated to the parts you've installed(usually based off of your tuner's experience or commonly accepted values). I.e.- Grimmspeed recommends a 12% maf multiplier across the board for their CAI as a baseline. Then, you work your way up to WOT little by little, changing timing/MAF scaling/fuel etc. as you go.

 

I want to wrap/blanket my exhaust. I've read not to wrap the headers because of too much heat and wet and such causing issues sometimes but I'm unsure about the up/down pipes. My up is an OEM catless and I hear the heat shields rattle - trying to be proactive I was thinking about cutting those off and then wrapping the pipe. But then I read its not good to wrap the flex joint or any cats (If i get a catted downpipe) so that made me think about wrapping as much as I can, and then getting a blanket to cover the rest. Thoughts? More is better right?

 

I think the commonly accepted knowledge is to not wrap anything that's cast. Cast parts have a much different grain size and structure AKA they can crack more easily(supposedly). My argument against that is turbo exhaust housings, which are all cast. That being said, I wouldn't wrap too many OEM parts, as I'm not sure whether or not they're enginerded to handle that type of heat concentration. Keep in mind exhaust wrap also hold moisture and salt if your region uses it. Those crossover pipes are very thin and will rust through easily!

 

Lastly, what is the difference between some Whiteline bushings? The LCA bushings have two numbers, they dont seem to explain much difference but theres quite a price difference. The other ones are the rear diff/cradle insert/outrigger bushings. Are these actually different locations or applications? One seems like a bushing "insert" that fill the stock voids I guess and the others are a full bushing?

 

If you're talking about the front LCA's, then what you would be seeing is the "Anti-Lift Kit" (caster kit) and the standard replacement. One adds caster, one does not. They're both far better than OEM. For the diff, there's a few options:

- Diff carrier inserts: these go into the subframe bushings at the rear of the diff.

-Diff carrier bushings: a direct(a.k.a.- better) replacement for the above. Though substantially harder to install.

-Diff carrier bushings: these replace the grease filled carrier bushings in the cast diff carrier bolted under the pinion.

-Outrigger bushings: These are located in the subframe near wherethe rear trailing arm pivot bushings are. These are sort of an "insert" that helps reduce subrframe movement caused by load from the diff

 

Thanks!

 

I think that covers it?

[Merc6]

I think it's just easier to tell people that things will explode so bring it to a tuner instead of teaching them about how the cars actually work

 

Easier and safer since most folks get the car 3rd and 4th hand and have no intention of really tuning. They just want to toss a bunch of speed parts at it like it's a n/a Civic, pull the neg cable to reset the ecu and go hooning.

[Sparkey]

So im needing a wideband and im a bit confused. I want to make sure i'm getting the right stuff - seems like theres lots of options.

 

I want to be able to log the information for E85 tuning and I dont see the need to have a gauge in car. I think i've narrowed it down to a Innovate LC-2 at $150 and 14point7 Spartan 2 at $110. I was planning on logging with BTSSM but it doesnt look like I'll be able to do that because I still have TGV's so I have to log with a laptop.

 

In my attempt to download romraider its telling me I need 32bit Java even on a 64 bit system (which I have). In the link that romraider sent me to find a x86 JRE I only see x64 downloads.

[Max Capacity]

So im needing a wideband and im a bit confused. I want to make sure i'm getting the right stuff - seems like theres lots of options.

 

I want to be able to log the information for E85 tuning and I dont see the need to have a gauge in car. I think i've narrowed it down to a Innovate LC-2 at $150 and 14point7 Spartan 2 at $110. I was planning on logging with BTSSM but it doesnt look like I'll be able to do that because I still have TGV's so I have to log with a laptop.

 

In my attempt to download romraider its telling me I need 32bit Java even on a 64 bit system (which I have). In the link that romraider sent me to find a x86 JRE I only see x64 downloads.

 

Have you asked Dave at Cryo, what he recommends ? After all, where you live, he should be easy to talk to, in person.

[Infosecdad]

So im needing a wideband and im a bit confused. I want to make sure i'm getting the right stuff - seems like theres lots of options.

 

I want to be able to log the information for E85 tuning and I dont see the need to have a gauge in car. I think i've narrowed it down to a Innovate LC-2 at $150 and 14point7 Spartan 2 at $110. I was planning on logging with BTSSM but it doesnt look like I'll be able to do that because I still have TGV's so I have to log with a laptop.

 

In my attempt to download romraider its telling me I need 32bit Java even on a 64 bit system (which I have). In the link that romraider sent me to find a x86 JRE I only see x64 downloads.

 

That's because, starting in Java 9 they just have x64. You have to look at the latest Java 8

 

From: http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jre8-downloads-2133155.html

 

Should be direct: http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/8u152-b16/aa0333dd3019491ca4f6ddbe78cdb6d0/jre-8u152-windows-i586.exe

[Sparkey]

Have you asked Dave at Cryo, what he recommends ? After all, where you live, he should be easy to talk to, in person.

 

He's 1.5hrs away and closed on my days off. Plus I like to get multiple opinions. I see innovate LC-2's on here, however other sites I've lurked say they fail a lot and recommend 14point7.

 

That's because, starting in Java 9 they just have x64. You have to look at the latest Java 8

 

From: http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jre8-downloads-2133155.html

 

Should be direct: http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/8u152-b16/aa0333dd3019491ca4f6ddbe78cdb6d0/jre-8u152-windows-i586.exe

 

Its funny, while typing out a response to this I was able to answer the questions that I was going to ask because I'd realize things as I tried to explain something and then finally figured it out - The only Javas I have installed are the Java 8 X86 versions 8u151 and 8u152. And when I open the plugin viewer in my browser it wont do it because "You are on a 64 bit browser". I think I'm safe enough to continue with RR install without fear of bricking my ECU. I think I would cry if that happened...

 

Thank you very much.

[solidxsnake]

He's 1.5hrs away and closed on my days off. Plus I like to get multiple opinions. I see innovate LC-2's on here, however other sites I've lurked say they fail a lot and recommend 14point7.

 

 

 

Its funny, while typing out a response to this I was able to answer the questions that I was going to ask because I'd realize things as I tried to explain something and then finally figured it out - The only Javas I have installed are the Java 8 X86 versions 8u151 and 8u152. And when I open the plugin viewer in my browser it wont do it because "You are on a 64 bit browser". I think I'm safe enough to continue with RR install without fear of bricking my ECU. I think I would cry if that happened...

 

Thank you very much.

 

RR won't ever brick your ECU. It doesn't ever do anything regarding writing, so it's perfectly safe. ECUFlash is the software you use to flash it if you're tuning OS, and that doesn't run on Java (thankfully!).

[Sparkey]

Lots has happened since I bought it and my last update. Im up to Stage 2 E85 with a Cryotune. Recently it was totaled out due to hail, but its not bad so i bought it back. That gave me some modding money and I think I have my engine decently taken care of - time to go at the suspension and steering.

 

Is there any problem fitting the IAG AOS with a GS TMIC? I havent found for certain that it does or not.

 

Parts I have to install:

Aluminum front and rear arms

Whiteline roll center kit

2015 STi steering rack

Cusco brace

Whiteline steering rack bushings

STi Lower arm brace

Perrin steering damper lockdown

camber bolts

New PS pump lines

Less used PS Pump

 

Parts I am set to purchase:

Bilstein BSS Coilover kit

IAG AOS Street

Rear sway bar reinforcement bracket

Bushings: (whiteline)

Front LCA:

KCA334

W0506

Rear trailing arm:

W63398

W63394

Trailing upper arm:

W63396

KCA399

Differential:

KDT903

KDT927

 

Are adjustable lateral arms recommended? I'm probably going to just replace bushings but was curious about this.

 

Im not sure what tophats to get - not sure if the bilstein coilovers need Spec B or regular tophats and if I should get the Cusco adjustable ones (https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/17593). I also found some "STi" listed ones but cant find anything else out about them other then 'harder rubber'. Are there any benefits to the whiteline ones?

 

Lastly what swaybars and endlinks should I get? I was considering just getting the whiteline kit since I need to replace it all, but didnt know if that would be a good option or if I'd be better off piecing it together.

 

Anything else I'm missing or should consider? Thanks.

[solidxsnake]

I would recommend the KTA124 kit (adjustable rear links) if you're looking for precise alignments in the rear. Made it cake to adjust rear toe/camber exactly how I wanted it. It's a matter of money, of course, but it'll also save you time from replacing the bushings in the rear links it replaces since it already comes with the corresponding WL bushings. You could also eliminate the KCA399 if you get this and instead get the WL63397.

 

I'm running the Hotchkis 25F/24R FSB, with the Whiteline 24mm bushings, that I got used from another member. If you're buying new, I'd recommend the Whiteline bars for sure. I think I have Whiteline endlinks up front (came with the car), but Kartboy ones are fine too.

 

Don't know anything about the tophats, unfortunately.

[Sparkey]

I would recommend the KTA124 kit (adjustable rear links) if you're looking for precise alignments in the rear. Made it cake to adjust rear toe/camber exactly how I wanted it. It's a matter of money, of course, but it'll also save you time from replacing the bushings in the rear links it replaces since it already comes with the corresponding WL bushings. You could also eliminate the KCA399 if you get this and instead get the WL63397.

 

I'm running the Hotchkis 25F/24R FSB, with the Whiteline 24mm bushings, that I got used from another member. If you're buying new, I'd recommend the Whiteline bars for sure. I think I have Whiteline endlinks up front (came with the car), but Kartboy ones are fine too.

 

Don't know anything about the tophats, unfortunately.

 

Thank you, I wasnt sure if the KCA399 and KTA124 were redundant or not. I didnt consider that its likely easier to make the adjustment with the links instead of the bushing however so I'll go that route.

 

Had to dig a bit in the WDYDT thread, but i almost forgot KCA307 - control arm lockdown.

 

I likely wont be doing much of the work. I just dont have the space or time at the moment so I'll likely be having a shop do it unless I can steal my grandmas garage Its just money, but I've been a good boy and saved a bunch up so I can hopefully do it once and do it right.

[Rhitter]

I have the KCA399 and put in the KTA124 about a year ago. It allows perfect alignment. Highly recommended if you need it. With a lowered Outback I couldn't get the rear camber where I wanted with KCA399.

[Con.Harr91]

No issues with a GS TMIC and IAG AOS.

[Sparkey]

I have the KCA399 and put in the KTA124 about a year ago. It allows perfect alignment. Highly recommended if you need it. With a lowered Outback I couldn't get the rear camber where I wanted with KCA399.

 

I sort of assumed the 'better bushing' would have been more expensive... its cheaper. I guess it wont hurt to have both I wasnt initially intending too, but I think I want to autocross it. Subiefest is coming up and they always do events - maybe next year.

 

On the Bilstein coilovers I learned that they will need Spec.B/JDM/Bilstein hats and the camber plates are not recommended as they require you to lower the height and increase spring preload too much.

 

No issues with a GS TMIC and IAG AOS.

 

Awesome! I didnt think so, but always like to verify. Thank you much sir!

[JazzAvi8r]

Hey bro,

 

I didnt read your whole thread but if youre still wondering if you can use the AOS with the GS TMIC, you can. I also happen to have an AOS for sale if youre interested. You can come,check it out if you'd like.

[Sparkey]

Hey bro,

 

I didnt read your whole thread but if youre still wondering if you can use the AOS with the GS TMIC, you can. I also happen to have an AOS for sale if youre interested. You can come,check it out if you'd like.

 

Bummer, I ended up ordering one Friday. Thanks for the offer though!