DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Decided to have a little fun this morning and accidently overboosted lol. Engine shut died down, check engine light came on, curise control is flashing and its stuck in sport mode..won't go into sport sharp or intellect. So if I reset my ECU through my access port, will it be back to normal? Only thing I lose is my recorded data which my car will relearn right? I just don't want to lose the Tune that I got on my car, thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Get all of the codes that are stored in the ECU and write them down. Then you will have an idea of what to do next. Don't reset anything until you know what's happened. If you check back with your codes, people here may be able to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I did a trouble shoot on my access port. It just says I exceeded my boost limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 list of mods and tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skrolz Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Happened to me. P0244. Reset codes with Access Port, and I've been fine ever since. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 If you want to clear all the codes and make it drive-able again, you can reset the ECU. When you do that, you'll lose all of the "learned" data that the ECU has calculated. You would also lose tune info if you had a tune flashed in there as a "Live map". This can be easily verified by checking in the AP to see if it shows whether the basemap and live reflash maps are the same or not. If they differ, the live reflash is still on on your AP, so you'll just have to live reflash again after the ECU reset. Regarding your overboosting issue: that can become a fairly serious problem, so if it happens again I would really look into it. That being said, it could just be the cold dense air, which your tuner can compensate for! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Like others said, note the exact code (likely P0244 like skrolz mentioned) I had the exact same overboosting issues between shifts on my 5EAT @ WOT while going custom Stage 2. I let my tuner know when sending in logs and he was able to get rid of the issue after the first revision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Just reset through the AP as others have mentioned. For piece of mind you can go and check the loaded map on the car. The "Realtime" map and the "Reflash" map should be the same. Out of curiosity when did you overboost? Was it at a lower rpm, but a higher gear? Ambient temps and load can all play a factor. Most overboost situations are temp related, but you want to be sure it's not a vac line for boost control or something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Start and turn off the car 4 times. that should clear the CEL if it's just a over boost. I have done that a number times when the air get colder outside. I even do that on the highway if traffic is light. Must drive people crazy when they see the lights on the car shut off and turn on 4 times. I have a 5mt tranny so its easy. If that doesn't clear the CEL then make sure you find the code. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgjetlife Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Like others said, note the exact code (likely P0244 like skrolz mentioned) I had the exact same overboosting issues between shifts on my 5EAT @ WOT while going custom Stage 2. I let my tuner know when sending in logs and he was able to get rid of the issue after the first revision. This EXACT same situation as me. Did a 2-3 WOT pull and sent the data to my tuner. He made changes, sent me a file back, and it went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I was in 5th gear (I usually never Pull in 4th and in 5th) I was at about 130 mph when it cut out lol still was going too. It was super cold this morning so I know that's a big part in it. Not that concerned since my engine is pretty built with only about 3k miles on it with forged internals and quite a large mod list. Also with my catless downpipe in this cold weather....you know the rest haha. Just didn't wanna lose my tune but seems like I won't so I should be good! Thanks for all the I formation guys, and keep it coming! I like soaking it all in incase something happens in the future. Also I'm 99% sure the code said P0244. At work right now but I'll be going back out in about 3 hours to do some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Do you have a base map for the tune ? I would think it would be if its from a Cobb AP V2 or V3. I seem to recall V1 with custom tunes were only real time tune's. If it's V2 or V3 you will not lose the tune/MAP. do the start the engine and shut it off 4 times and see if that clears the CEL. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 It's a performance tune from PRE (performance race engineering) in Portland Oregon. I got the car 3 weeks ago so it was tuned before I got it. To save time typing I'm going to copy and paste the following list I posted about my car on a separate topic lol. It has an upgraded vf52 turbo, grimspeed intercooler, catless invidia downpipe, Perrin cat back exhaust , spt intake , forged block/internals (Manly pistons, ARP headstuds), gates racing timing belt, new clutch, valves , gaskets , lines, tgv deletes , v3 access port, new rims and tires from les swabs, new cv axles from Subaru , bigger oil pan to hold one more quart oil, wired for subs, and a few other little things. It currently dynos at 301.5 WHP and 320 WTQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 It's a performance tune from PRE (performance race engineering) in Portland Oregon. I got the car 3 weeks ago so it was tuned before I got it. To save time typing I'm going to copy and paste the following list I posted about my car on a separate topic lol. It has an upgraded vf52 turbo, grimspeed intercooler, catless invidia downpipe, Perrin cat back exhaust , spt intake , forged block/internals (Manly pistons, ARP headstuds), gates racing timing belt, new clutch, valves , gaskets , lines, tgv deletes , v3 access port, new rims and tires from les swabs, new cv axles from Subaru , bigger oil pan to hold one more quart oil, wired for subs, and a few other little things. It currently dynos at 301.5 WHP and 320 WTQ. So a tune update is needed IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 So a tune update is needed IMO. Everything listed has about 3k miles on it. Tune was done after the rebuild and the shop rechecked the car right before my purchasing of the car. Nothings been done to it since the tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Your location is listed as North Idaho, so colder and probably higher altitude than Portland, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Your location is listed as North Idaho, so colder and probably higher altitude than Portland, no? Wow I didn't consider that haha I see what you guys are saying now. (Still a rookie turbo car owner) ahhh I hear tunes are expensive as hell though. Guess I gotta do what I gotta do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 A good tune should account for these variations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Start and turn off the car 4 times. that should clear the CEL if it's just a over boost. I have done that a number times when the air get colder outside. I even do that on the highway if traffic is light. Must drive people crazy when they see the lights on the car shut off and turn on 4 times. I have a 5mt tranny so its easy. If that doesn't clear the CEL then make sure you find the code. I just did this and it fixed it...mostly. Engine light is off, and cruise control isn't flashing anymore. However, it still reads the P0244 code on my AP and I still can't go into sport Sharp. I can get into intellect now though. EDIT: nvm, after idling for a few minutes sport sharp works now as well. Code still shows on my AP though if I look it up. Does that just not go away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Do a reset through the AP then. Or just pull the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I wonder if my wagon still has the code, it thru that CEL a few month's back when I went into 4th and then WOT. I just did the off/on thing and kept driving. May be when warm weather comes I'll plug in the AP and see. It has no problem making HP. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustinEgle Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Do a reset through the AP then. Or just pull the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes. Yeah I reset my ECU at lunch today. Codes gone, car runs fine just as before. All looks good now! Pretty simple fix so I'm happy about that haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Install an interwarmer after the intercooler to warm up the cooled air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Yeah I reset my ECU at lunch today. Codes gone, car runs fine just as before. All looks good now! Pretty simple fix so I'm happy about that haha Resetting the ECU is not a fix. It seems something in your tune is a bit off. Overboost is never good. These turbos are notorious for boost creep, also, which you can provoke since you are catless. You should go a little easier on the car until you figure out what is behind this. Prolonged periods of WOT in cold weather will probably cause the same thing to happen again. Pretend there is a little spacer under the accelerator pedal that prevents you from flooring it all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 If you have an AP, you should be able to log or view live 'boost target' and the actual boost variables. This way, you can see how far off it overboosted. There is also a boost error variable I believe which computes the difference between these two variables. In a perfect world, the difference should be 0. In my case, I begin overboosting just a little (+.5-1psi) when it gets really cold. But most of the time, boost target = actual boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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