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My First Engine Build: PDX Flavor


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No I don't think your heater core is blocked.

Reversing the caps doesn't break stuff in itself, other than you can overheat and break something.

Your thermostat just starts to open between 176 -183 degrees. It's not fully open until 203 degrees.

if you're sitting still your fans don't kick on till 205 degrees. From the FSM:

DETECTING CONDITION:

• Engine coolant temperature is 96°C (205°F) or more.

• Vehicle speed is 19 km/h (12 MPH) or below.

TROUBLE SYMPTOMS:

Radiator main and sub fans do not rotate under the above conditions.

 

I think you should take it for a drive. Now that you've got the caps on correctly make sure the overflow bottle is half filled and take it for a good drive. Push it a bit. You've got AAA if it gets too hot. I bet it won't.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 2 months later...
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Hey guys! Its been a while since my last post and I wanted to just give n update. Iv put on ~7800 miles on the new engine and its running good. the car now has ~124k miles.

 

On May 23 I had Cobb Surgeline dyno tune the car on their mustang dyno; just wanted to clarify. I got 3 tunes, 16.5psi, 14psi and Econ. The car made 277hp and 303ft-lbs. The car feels good and hopefully the drivetrain can keep up.

Dyno.thumb.JPG.891eb2085e0dfd664da33665b0c4c8d3.JPG

 

I recently had an AVCS issue on the driver side Intake AVCS gear. By monitoring the both AVCS on my AP I could see the DS gear fluctuating from 0-40/50, almost continuously when the engine was below 3500 rpms. Above ~4000 rpms the DS AVCS acted normal and mimicked the PS AVCS. A few days ago I switched the OCV for the Left and Right side to see what the affect would be and interestingly the Driver side AVCS gear seems to be running smooth now. I will continue monitoring this and hopefully its an OCV thats starting to fail.

 

Ever since this build the engine has had a small leak. The oil ends up forming on the bottom front of the passenger side head. It seems to be leaking form behind the back side of the timing belt cover? maybe.... I have a hard time believing the cam seals are leaking but i plan to take the timing belt off soon to take a look. I just added UV dye to the engine oil. hope this will lead me to the problem spot.

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I recently had an AVCS issue on the driver side Intake AVCS gear. By monitoring the both AVCS on my AP I could see the DS gear fluctuating from 0-40/50, almost continuously when the engine was below 3500 rpms. Above ~4000 rpms the DS AVCS acted normal and mimicked the PS AVCS. A few days ago I switched the OCV for the Left and Right side to see what the affect would be and interestingly the Driver side AVCS gear seems to be running smooth now. I will continue monitoring this and hopefully its an OCV thats starting to fail.

 

You need new OCV's, I had this happen to me a few months ago.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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You need new OCV's, I had this happen to me a few months ago.

 

My plan is to replace the OCV that was acting up however Ive put a few hundred miles since switching the left and right OCV and they seem to operating just fine now. I will eventually replace the failing OCV when I feel like shelling out another hundred bucks.

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Last weekend I decided to hunt down the mystery leak my car has always had. I previously added UV dye to my engine oil and drove normally for a few hundred miles. I could see the Oil with Dye using a UV light behind the timing belt cover under the passenger side exhaust cam as expected.

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I ended up taking the timing belt off and removing the intake and exhaust cam gears on the passenger side. I initially suspected there to be an issue with one of the cam seals or the AVCS cam. upon removal of the gears there were no signs of leaks coming form the Cams.

 

Once I removed the backside timing cover I could see how there was oil covering the head away from the cams.

662421367_Passengersidecamleakfix.thumb.JPG.6de568a7eb67cf661407592020386ed6.JPG

UV Dye is Awesome!

763595180_Passengersidecamleakfixuv.JPG.37b375ae67ebf4a84adc280b42e5d5ca.JPG

I discovered the upper oil plug was loose!!! :spin::spin::spin:

926112263_Passengersidecamleakfixplug.JPG.4b75183987a4b1db84a55379d727820f.JPG

690964641_Passengersidecamleakfixplug2.JPG.780dd8155e40d5cf3288a7ffc27b3d4c.JPG

What really get me is I had these heads rebuild by a machine shop ( M&B Cylinder Heads ). After Paying almost a grand to this machine shop I had to spend over $600 more due to the cams being out of tolerance in the journals, and the valves lash being out of spec. Which I talked about in my thread. The machine shop acted like everything being out of tolerance would be fine but I wasn't going to chance it.

 

Do you guys think the machine shop should have caught the loose head plug during a head rebuild?

 

To be honest I was really upset with this shop already and this is just a cherry on top :mad: I feel like I was taken advantage of, over charged, and they did a halfA$$ job.

 

Sorry for the long rant anyways heres a photo of everything cleaded up and looking new. hopefully it can stay that way for a while now.

694050447_Passengersidecamleakallcleanedup.thumb.JPG.6c1cd2c646721a69d4032114440942dc.JPG

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