My First Engine Build: PDX Flavor

[rhino6303]

You can also use a dishwasher to clean parts. It works great.

[lgt503]

You can also use a dishwasher to clean parts. It works great.

 

I've heard of the dishwasher method but i don't know how much my parents would appreciate that. I also don't know if the water jet would get behind the the splash guard like i need.

 

Take it to a car wash.

 

Never thought about this, I just question how strong the sprayer would be at a self car wash? surly not as powerful as a gas pressure washer that can rip off your skin.

[Darth SpecB]

You can also use simple green degreaser for cleaning up oil on the block or heads. It works really well and leaves a fresh scent. In combination with some bore brushes from harbor freight for about 5$ you can use to scrub the orifices and loosen up any metal contamination.

 

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[Sgt.Gator]

The wait time on Ultra Black is how long to wait after the install but before you expose it to oil.

 

The wait time on Subaru grey bond and Permatex Right Stuff Grey is how long you have to get the parts together. The faster the better. Less than 5 minutes from the time you put it down till the surfaces are mated. The great thing is you can torque to spec immediately and put the engine in service right away.

 

Personally I've given up on Ultra Black for anything, I use the Permatex the Right Stuff 1 Minute Gasket GREY now.

 

"Assemble parts within five minutes, tightening bolts to recommended torque levels. Material will fill any surface imperfection. Equipment can be returned to service immediately."

 

Compare to Ultra Black:

6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet.

7. Finger tighten flange only until material begins to seep out the sides of the flange.

8. Allow to set for at least two hours and re-torque at least one quarter to one half turn.

9. For best results, allow to cure overnight.

[lgt503]

February Week 3

 

Updates

 

VF-40 Turbo is back from its rehabilitation with Dr. JmP, it looks amazing and I cant wait to feel the performance increase. Too bad the heat shield is going to cover the super rad red custom turbo paint job. Its made in America btw

 

Previously I painted the crossover pipe with red, see post #9. Unfortunately when I bolted it on to the block the paint started to crack around one of the bolts . I hope the paint doesn’t end up chipping off over time.

I plan on doing one last cleaning on the valve covers with simple green. Afterwards I will sand and paint the valve covers red.

 

I am currently in the process of dealing with my heads. Once I get the heads figured out I will be on my way to getting my long block built. long story short I am sending the Ebay heads back for a refund. The seller seemed very nice, I just wasn't happy with the product.

 

Now I am going to see if i can get my old heads rebuilt. Im almost certain I'll need a new Left Head Casting due to the scored exhaust cam journal and at least one new Cam. probably more.

 

Questions I have? And Thing I need to research

 

I need to figure out the best shop to send send my heads. I plan on calling the CARR Subaru dealer and see what machine shop they use.

 

It seems like all the clutch kits come with an alignment tool. Since I bought all the parts for an oem SMFW setup I didn’t get an aligning tool. Subaru doesn’t make this alignment tool and I can’t seem to find the specific alignment tool for this clutch. I’m wondering if I can improvise something with a dowel maybe. Alternatively if they are somewhat generic I could bring in the clutch to an auto parts store and have the match the right alignment tool for it. or possably someone has an extra one lying around .

 

I’ve notice my headers are somewhat dirty inside. It’s probably not something I need to worry about since I’ve never seen anything about people cleaning there headers during an engine rebuild. I probably won’t do anything to them but am just curious if anyone has cleaned theirs.

 

If I recall the car had a full tank of premium and it was never drained . In the near future I need to drain this gas from the tank. I don’t want to run the new engine on 6 month old gas. It looks like there is a drain plug on the bottom of the tank I can just remove. I have a feeling this is going to be messy. I definitely won’t be running my space heater or using any lighters.

 

turbo photos coming soon

[Darth SpecB]

If the scoring on the cam journal cannot be felt with your finger nail it should be fine. Have them rebuilt.

 

If you can find an allen bit that can fit in the pilot bearing and a socket that fits in the splines both should be snug, you can use that to align the clutch. If not Autozone has a universal clutch alignment tool. I'm surprised your kit didn't come with one, especially if it's exedy.

 

If there is loose debris in the header then I would recommend cleaning it out with wire brush and compressed air really well. The last thing you want is that debris going into your pretty turbo!

 

 

BTW reusing your baffle plate should be fine as long as it is cleaned very well. Also, my cams are hollow.

[StkmltS]

I may have an extra alignment tool from helping a friend change his clutch. If I can find it I'll send it to you.

 

If not... RallySportDirect has them for $4 + shipping. It doesn't matter what brand it says it's for, the spline on the tool matches our driveshaft, so it'll work for any clutch that fits our cars.

[lgt503]

I may have an extra alignment tool from helping a friend change his clutch. If I can find it I'll send it to you.

 

That would be awesome I probably wont need it for a few weeks. If you can't find it I can just get one off the link you posted. Thanks StkmltS. BTW nice youtube videos, I wanted to see an initial startup before I do mine, now I have

[boxkita]

Questions I have? And Thing I need to research

 

I need to figure out the best shop to send send my heads. I plan on calling the CARR Subaru dealer and see what machine shop they use.

 

Pm Sgt.Gator. He has alot of experience rebuilding heads in your area and can give you suggestions on who to use.

[lgt503]

Febuary Week 4

 

Updates

 

My ebay heads have officially been returned. Shipping was $128 because they weight 60 some pounds and they came from New York. I should have just gone to a machine shop from the start.

 

I am having Brian at M&B Cylinder Heads redo my heads. I have heard nothing but good things about M&B and was very impressed by the shop. While I was there dropping off my Heads someone from a Subaru dealer was picking up a set of heads. He does all sorts of engines and showed me a few builds he's working on. I gave Brian the FSM specs for the valve lash just in case.

 

I Installed Group N engine mounts. since they aren't stock I had to find the torque specs.

Mount -> Bracket: 31 ft/lbs

Bracket -> Block: 26 ft/lbs

Mount -> Subframe: 63 ft/lbs

 

Right side

 

Here's is my Cobb DP with DEI Titanium Heat Wrap. If you buy the DP from Import Image Racing they have the GS adapter kit for $5 more.

[Sgt.Gator]

Pm Sgt.Gator. He has alot of experience rebuilding heads in your area and can give you suggestions on who to use.

 

I'm not sure about PDX. Cobb - Surgeline sends their heads out to a small shop that only does work for pro shops like Cobb. So you could take your heads to Cobb and they would send them to the other shop.

 

Here in Bend my sponsor Subaru of Bend sends all their head work to the NAPA machine shop which happens to be across the street. That's where I had my LGT race wagon and the Spec B heads redone. I have no complaints about their work if all you need is the heads decked and valves ground or new valves installed. I don't know if they do performance mods like porting, I just had them install oem equivalent valves and deck the heads. They charged $520.

 

However plan on measuring the buckets and ordering the correct ones yourself. It's easy if you follow the FSM, but a bit expensive for all the new buckets. The alternative is you end up like Boxkita with them grinding the stem tips down and all the problems he's had over that procedure.

 

For the STI race car I had BuiltEJ start with brand new heads and do a stage 1.5 build. Since that engine is not running yet I can't advise for or against their work, other than the heads looked great when I unpacked and installed them. https://www.builtej.com/BUILT-STG-I-WRX-STI-Cylinder-Heads.html

But again, don't have them install the buckets. Wait till your heads are torqued down to your long block to do that. Boxkita says to also install the timing belt too before measuring the buckets. I think he's saying to install the belt, measure all the buckets per FSM, uninstall belt, replace buckets, re-install belt, measure again to hopefully verify they are all good.

[StkmltS]

That would be awesome I probably wont need it for a few weeks. If you can't find it I can just get one off the link you posted. Thanks StkmltS. BTW nice youtube videos, I wanted to see an initial startup before I do mine, now I have

 

I poked around in my garage and only found my one alignment tool. Considering how cheap a new one is (and that I don't want to let go of my only one) it's probably going to me more convenient for you to just buy a new one from somewhere.

[rhino6303]

I have an alignment tool made from the snout of a transmission you can borrow. I'm local to you as well. PM me if you wish.

[lgt503]

March week 1

 

Updates

 

I have scheduled an initial break-in appointment with Cobb Surgeline on April 7. The plan is to drive my car over to Cobb that day with an OTS map, probably the economy map. I live approximately 15 miles from Surgeline so I should be fine. I will have to find out more but they will do a mechanical exam to make sure everything is good and then run it on the dyno to get the breakin tune. I’m curious if this method is better for seating the piston rings to cylinder walls?

 

I should have plenty of time to get everything ready for April 7. My goal is to get the engine started the week before and do an oil change before I take it to Cobb. Brian at M&B said I could use his oil pressure can to prime my motor if i like. i havent look into the whole prepping the motor yet but it sounds like the the oil pressure can would be easier than taking out the spark plugs. also he said its safer than cranking the dry motor. does anybody have any thought on priming the engine for an initial startup?

 

I got my heads back from M & B on everything looks good, I ended up taking the buckets out and oiled them up with redline assembly lube. Whatever M & B used was a lot thicker than my assembly lube. The valve measured between .013”-.015” exhaust and .007”-.009” intake. I checked them and they were all within. I will get final readings once the timing belt is done.

 

I need to figure out how Im going to tighten all the timing belt gears. I might just but the company 23 tools if I don’t think of something soon. If I had my old timing belt id just wrap it around the gears and use some vice grips to hold it, too bad the Subaru dealer forgot to give it back after the tear down. I did get the rex bolts for the cams so I don’t have to deal with the FUuuu bolts! Also I got the Grimm Speed lightweight crank pully that has bolt holes; I might be able to use bolts and a prybar to hold it.

 

photo update coming soon:lol:

[Darth SpecB]

I would recommend the company 23 tools unless you can get your hands on a used timing belt. Maybe go back to the dealer and see if they have any old timing belts lying around.

 

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[birkhoff]

Oil priming. IMO, keep it simple, but robust.

 

Leave the plugs out. As soon as the engine is in the car and you have the starter connected, fill with oil. Install a mechanical gauge and crack the banjo fitting on the inlet line at the turbo.

 

It will crank fast without plugs. However, with no compression there is very little load on the bearings. If all is well, you should see 40-60 lbs pressure at the gauge in a couple of seconds and oil at the turbo feed line a fraction of a second later.

 

That confirms: your oil pump picked up prime; you don't have any big leaks in the oiling system; turbo line is supplying pressurized lube oil. These are the three things you want to know before first startup.

 

Snug down the turbo feed line, do a quick check again for any oil leaks and then proceed with the rest of install.

[lgt503]

The ARP head studs were super easy to install. I "hand tightened" the bolts snugly with an allen wrench . After doing the 30-60-90 ft-lbs procedure I let them sit overnight and re-torqued to 90 ft-lbs the next morning, I got an extra few degrees of rotation during the re-torque.

 

I used The Right Stuff for the cam caps. I spread the sealant very thin especially around the oil passages. After torquing the caps I used a flashlight to confirm all the passages were still clear. the instructions on The Right Stuff say to get parts together within 5 minutes, It look me closer to 10 minutes to smooth out and prepare the sealant before placing the caps on the car

 

All Banjo bolts have been removed from the Union Bolts.

 

starting to look good . Valve covers have not be officially installed. I just placed them on the heads to minimize dust in the engine.

 

I just ordered company 23 Intake and exhaust sprocket tools and the Grimm Speed cam holding tool. my goal is to get the timing belt done next week once these tools arrive.

[Sgt.Gator]

Here's the DIY: Oil System Priming Tank thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html

[Shadow_419]

I'm surprised you haven't been able to come up with an old belt from somewhere. Bummer.

[lgt503]

I have a mystery bolt that I need HELP! identifying. The bolt was cut in half by the dealer presumably because the nut wouldn't come off. my mystery bolt is a longer version of the turbo to downpipe bolts 44059AA030 as seen in the pictures. The mystery bolt probably goes somewhere along the exhaust but im not sure. let me know if this bolt looks familiar.

[Darth SpecB]

It could possibly be the bolt that connects the downpipe to the mount underneath the car. Or it could be the bolt that connects the midpipe to downpipe. Or down pipe to turbo. Just look for a missing hole.

 

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[lgt503]

Here are some photos of what i just did tonight,

 

first I went to Carr Subaru and picked up some miscellaneous part (bolt, 2 hoses, gaskets...). Also stopped by Home Depo to pick up parts for the system priming tank. thanks for that link sgt.gator HDX was still under $10.

 

 

Installed cam seals, used assembly lube around the lip of the seals to ease installation. To seat the seals I used a 1.5" pvc pipe cap that fit almost perfectly around the seal and hammered it in.

 

Reinstalled the timing belt gears with locktight

 

Installed intake maifold, belt is sitting on the longblock in the picture but it hasnt be lined up yet. just waiting on the company 23 tools.

[StkmltS]

Mmmm, pretty motor!

[lgt503]

After some debate I decided not to fully clean the headers. cleaning the headers would have been more of a hassle than its worth. I ended up spraying compressed air through them to remove any dust and break cleaned the mating surfaces.

 

Got the turbo attached, Ill probably leave it loose on the uppipe until the engine is in the car and everything lines up.

 

I was getting ready to install the timing belt today and found out the threads were stripped out of the hole for the belt tensioner. guess this means another trip to the dealer. hope they have the bracket in stock. If not they usually can get the part in one or two day.

 

I also want to pick up a few more half moon seals, my seals look original and aren't flat anymore. There probably fine but I want to be like everyone else that replaces these stupid plastic seals that cost 5 cents to make. I also need to pick up an up pipe to header bolt and overflow water cooler to turbo hose.

 

Back when my car still ran the dealer told me the power steering leaked so I bought a new pump but never got around to installing it. it seems like a good time to replace the pump so it doesn't get atf all over my sexy new motor . From what I understand I can manually spin the pump while turning the stearing wheel to remove all the air from the lines. If anyone has any experience or tips replacing the power steering pump id like to hear your thoughts. Ive thought about waiting until i get the engine running however I think there are already air bubbles in the lines so I will have to bleed the power steering anyways. post #13 on this thead sums up what I will do http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/power-steering-fluid-216079.html

.

[Sgt.Gator]

I found it's easier to pre-fit the turbo, then remove it when you go to install the engine in the bay. Once you have the engine bolted up to the tranny then re-install it.