First Build - 05 legacy gt

[Darth SpecB]

Good to see your making really good progress with the build! I've been trying to keep up hehe. I just hope all of your oil clearances for the main bearings are within tolerance. Did you measure with plastigauge? Many rebuilds fail quickly due to inproper bearing sizes.

 

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[jersdunz]

Good to see your making really good progress with the build! I've been trying to keep up hehe. I just hope all of your oil clearances for the main bearings are within tolerance. Did you measure with plastigauge? Many rebuilds fail quickly due to inproper bearing sizes.

 

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I paid the machine shop to size the bearings, He only had to adjust the rod bearings 2 of them were tight. I then plastigauged all the mains..as a double check. What I did fail to do is record the process.

[jersdunz]

Good to see your making really good progress with the build! I've been trying to keep up hehe. I just hope all of your oil clearances for the main bearings are within tolerance. Did you measure with plastigauge? Many rebuilds fail quickly due to inproper bearing sizes.

 

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So your post has been eating at my soul.

And my engine is back apart. I was losing sleep over the Damn thing.. Lol

 

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I had to double check.

And I'm thinking about taking it to a different machine shop to get some real numbers.

[Max Capacity]

It's been many years, but aren't those holes in the bearing supposed to line up with an oil port in the block ?

[jersdunz]

It's been many years, but aren't those holes in the bearing supposed to line up with an oil port in the block ?

I don't know, I will see if they do with some rearranging. I know the groove is all nice and centered.

[Darth SpecB]

So your post has been eating at my soul.

And my engine is back apart. I was losing sleep over the Damn thing.. Lol

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/a570e975410525ed0476d71819aff51a.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/7bfdecf7a6e215c3409ee0c6f8e4d227.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/dd89885071b61ab8e665b1b535c12cfa.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/d8096dcad2b512d6b8953e16c505673b.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/5b0902251a06be6c7150c09c463010bb.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/01f006185fec53633aa510d37a88b99a.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/02086a834094674aee28f402a2dde990.jpg

 

I had to double check.

And I'm thinking about taking it to a different machine shop to get some real numbers.

 

Haha it was killing me too! Good thing you double checked, but it seems according to plastigauge you should be fine. I would just check your oil pressure and possibly switch to 5w40 if needed.

 

Also if the tangs are in place, the oil holes are fine because I believe oem bearings have only 1 oil hole per half shell. It seems your bearings have 2 oil holes per half shell.

 

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[Max Capacity]

Just make sure one of those oils lines up with the oil gallery. Also use 5w-40 year round, don't use a 5w-30.

[StkmltS]

My clearances are basically the same as yours, except mine is 0.0005" looser on the rear journal. My motor has lasted 2,500 miles (so far) on these clearances so I'm confident you'll be fine with the measurements you got. I used the same King XP bearing as you did, so I'm also sure that you don't need to worry about lining up any of the oil holes. Fortunately for us all of the main bearings (except the thrust bearings) have aligning tangs, which means there's only one way to put them in.

 

From my rebuild:

Using plastigage these are my measured clearances for the mains with new std size bearings:

Main 1 - 0.0015"

Main 2 - 0.0015"

Main 3 - > 0.001 but < 0.0015"

Main 4 - 0.0015"

Main 5 - 0.001"

 

The FSM specifies 0.0004" to 0.0012" clearance. From what I've read, using 5w-40 (vs the factory recommended 5w-30) means that my slightly larger clearances are acceptable.

 

Rod oil clearances (measured using plastigage:

R1 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R2 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R3 - 0.0015" (0.006" side)

R4 - between 0.0015" and 0.002" (0.008" side)

 

The FSM specifies the oil clearance to be 0.0007" to 0.0018", and the side clearance to be 0.0028" to 0.0130".

[birkhoff]

This comes up quite a lot.

 

The factory spec on mains oil clearance is tighter than that -- maybe those larger numbers come from the STI specs. The mains are supposed to be 0.0004 to 0.0012.

 

Of course, you can set them more open -- lots of builders do that and it seems to work out fine, up to a point. The machinist who set up the mainline on this case seems to have gone for the top of the spec and did a very nice job of it. With a bore gauge, you can do the measurements and half shell swaps pretty quickly and produce uniform clearances like you have there. There is no need take it back to the shop to verify.

 

Doing a final plastigage test is always a good idea just to be sure the math wasn't wrong. They probably did that at the shop already.

 

Using a bore gauge on he soft bearing faces will inevitably mark them up. That's why you see the polishing marks there as the final step in a professional job.

[jersdunz]

Thank you guys for the feedback.

 

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[jersdunz]

I got the new cooler in the mail this afternoon.

I don't know why but something about the price if this part and the complete lack of aftermarket on it makes me a little bit crazy.

 

It feels like a big fat FU from Subaru.

 

.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161217/751be55ba2e989b65c42764f254ff5b1.jpg

 

On a side note, what is the consensus on spending 40$ on a new oil pick up from Subaru vs the aftermarket for 175?

 

Are new oem pickups dependable?

[Darth SpecB]

Yeah 200$ is what I paid for my oil cooler!

 

I went with a Moroso oil pickup tube. The design looks great compared to oem. I'll post a link. For $92 I'd say the extra 50$ for peace of mind is more than worth it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PX0SAO/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481951500&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subaru+oil+pickup

 

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[boxkita]

I got the new cooler in the mail this afternoon.

I don't know why but something about the price if this part and the complete lack of aftermarket on it makes me a little bit crazy.

 

It feels like a big fat FU from Subaru.

 

.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161217/751be55ba2e989b65c42764f254ff5b1.jpg

 

On a side note, what is the consensus on spending 40$ on a new oil pick up from Subaru vs the aftermarket for 175?

 

Are new oem pickups dependable?

 

PM Sgt.Gator about the oil cooler. He knows the Perrin folks who might have an alternate solution. I bought a Mishimoto Oil cooler with thermostatic plate.

 

With regards the oil pickup. have you read of anyone cracking one other than after a big off-road hit? That said, I bought a KB pickup along with the pan & windage tray, so YMMV.

[RustyRuu]

Using a bore gauge on he soft bearing faces will inevitably mark them up. That's why you see the polishing marks there as the final step in a professional job.

 

he said he used king bearings and i was wondering why they were not that blacker color.

[StkmltS]

I'll second Darth's vote for a Moroso pickup. It's twice the price of OEM, but only half the price of a Killer B.

 

I've never understood why people spend so much extra $ on name brand items that aren't necessarily proven to be better than a cheaper alternative (Killer B vs Moroso). I'm not knocking every Killer B customer, I just don't understand what makes the KB pickup so much better

[Sgt.Gator]

I've used the both the Moroso and KillerB pickups. The only advantage I can see is the Killer B is a tripod design for potentially greater stability in extremely violent situations like RallyX or a Baja 1000 run.

 

I use the Moroso now in my street builds. Dry Sump for racing which removes the oil pickup.

 

Moroso has been making competition oil pickups and pans since 1968, started by a racer. They know how to make oil pickups and have a ton of experience at it. They are the best deal for a pickup in our engines IMHO.

 

On the oil cooler, you can delete it entirely (it's primarily an oil warmer for cold weather operation to get the engine warm for emissions, but it does have a cooling effect too) or replace it with a sandwich plate >AN lines> cooler options. The problem is not all sandwich plates will fit in the limited area against the block without the cooler extending the plate down away from the block. To delete the oem cooler you need the short oil filter pipe. There's writeups about deleting it.

[birkhoff]

he said he used king bearings and i was wondering why they were not that blacker color.

 

King makes a number of different lines of shells for our cars. They may not have been black to begin with.

 

The polish step is normally very light -- sometimes just a piece of newspaper is enough to clean up the scratches, but it will leave those swirls you see in the pics.

 

The swirls may not be as obvious to the eye as they are in the pictures. Camera angle and light can accentuate this sort of thing.

[jersdunz]

I went with the compromise and ordered the moroso oil pick up.

On a side note I dug my bow out for one reason or another. And it's been over a month since I've accomplished something productive.. Damn

 

[Max Capacity]

Nice bow.

 

Now get back to the engine... we want to see progress

[maxspeed3]

Subscribed! You've made awesome progress on your build! I may have missed it, but what turbo are you planning on running?

[jersdunz]

Subscribed! You've made awesome progress on your build! I may have missed it, but what turbo are you planning on running?

That is one if those decisions I have not been able to lock down. I've been considering

 

forced performance although which one I'm not sure about.

 

steam speed

http://steamturbochargers.com/index.php/stock-location-turbos-456/steam-turbos/steam-stx-71lgt-for-subaru-wrx-legacygt-8cm.html

 

bnr billet 20g

 

Something that'll flow 51lb/min at a minimum.

 

I'm also torn on rotated or stock. I think I could fabricate the pieces to do rotated pretty cheaply. My friend's, several of them have tig welders and I have some access to laser cutting as you probably seen previously on here. In fact I already have the flanges drawn up at least to reproduce the stock connections.

[Max Capacity]

rotate it.

 

That STX 71 looks like a nice piece...

[jersdunz]

You just have to love... The oil shield bolt that won't tighten.. :-(

 

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[jersdunz]

I have been back to work on the Legacy.. I just noticed today that I had closed up the engine with out snapping any photos. I did Go with the Moroso oil pickup.

I Just bought a used Grimspeed EBCS and a new DW200 fuel pump.

 

I just barely mailed the cam gears to outfront this weekend so not a ton of progress on the engine. I did get some work done mounting the FMIC i'll Post some pics from my phone.

 

Also over the weekend I finally pulled the trigger on my turbo and it felt really good to get over that hurdle. I went with a BorgWarner EFR 7670.

 

I'm still not even crystal clear on all of the plumbing to put the intake back together but I'm all kinds of excited to be getting to the part where I get to start building a header. I plan on building a clone of a KillerB holy header going to use my friends bender & 2" dies to make the runners and i'll get some 2.5" mandrel bends to run out from the collector.

 

I'll tell you the hardest part of this project for me too accept is the pornographic prices on some of these simple fabricated exhaust parts.

[jersdunz]