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First Build - 05 legacy gt


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Subaru told me the avcs cam gears are a non serviceable item. They won't open them up.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

Outfront will service them:

https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/avcs-cam-gear-services/avcs-cam-gear-servicing

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I also managed to get a few more steps on the Tumbler housings.

 

The side holes are 21/64 which is exactly what a 3/8-24 tap calls for.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/8c885f0a6efd34fb0a66a2489849e40a.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/8f3d1b63204123c94d6794c7e3dc7166.jpg

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Looking good.

The visible mark on your block between the cylinders looks pretty light, almost like its just from a fingernail pushing super hard. Is it IN the material or ON the material? Try rubbing on it to see if it comes off. Either way I wouldn't worry about it because of how shallow it looks.

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Looking good.

The visible mark on your block between the cylinders looks pretty light, almost like its just from a fingernail pushing super hard. Is it IN the material or ON the material? Try rubbing on it to see if it comes off. Either way I wouldn't worry about it because of how shallow it looks.

 

Unfortunately, they recommended decking both surfaces head/block.

i'll get a closer look at those marks later this evening after I get them back.

I met up with the Machinist last night and gave the block back. It still had chips in the head bolt holes and water jackets.

 

 

I did call outfront and talked to Jeremy he informed me that they have a very fast turnaround on those Gears.. -- I'm considering before I ship them over, to try and locate an intake cam and Make my own tools as they have in there video. Not sure which route to go just yet. I'd love to have that extra $100 Once in a while if I had the tools to reassemble them correctly. I wonder what they are doing for O-rings?

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Has the machine shop guy's seen the pistons ? Have you talked with them about the piston to wall gap's ?

 

Having the surfaces decked is a good idea, helps the HG seal. You do have ARP heads studs going in, right ?

A may have asked that already, but they are that important.

 

If your doing the rings, do you know to open the gaps up a little more then the manual say's too ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If your doing the rings, do you know to open the gaps up a little more then the manual say's too ?

 

Or buy NPR rings that are pre-gapped to the STI spec. Their p/n is SWF20068.

 

I didn't know they were pre-gapped, but I measured all of them (in my cylinders) and each gap was within the STI spec (over the spec for the LGT). I think the oil control rings have the same spec'd gap, so those were also within the LGT spec.

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Unfortunately, they recommended decking both surfaces head/block.

i'll get a closer look at those marks later this evening after I get them back.

I met up with the Machinist last night and gave the block back. It still had chips in the head bolt holes and water jackets.

 

 

I did call outfront and talked to Jeremy he informed me that they have a very fast turnaround on those Gears.. -- I'm considering before I ship them over, to try and locate an intake cam and Make my own tools as they have in there video. Not sure which route to go just yet. I'd love to have that extra $100 Once in a while if I had the tools to reassemble them correctly. I wonder what they are doing for O-rings?

 

It is completely do-able to open up the gear, but you need a 5-lobe tool of the right size and a mandrel to align the back plate when you put it back together. I did this in my rebuild. See post #45 here

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-legacy-gt-wagon-bone-stock-rebuild-239871p3.html

 

At the time I understood the formed o-rings to be unavailable, and nothing I have heard since contradicts this. OutFront has a stock of old ones they can lean on if they break one on teardown. And it is possible.

 

If you don't align the back plate, then the running surface at the cam seal will be out by whatever the amount. Up to 1 thou by my estimates, which could cause some troubles with pounding out the seals. If you have access to a lathe, making an alignment mandrel is worth it, but you still have the problem of preserving the o-ring seals on teardown and reassembly.

 

In short, a simple job but with a risk you will be worse off after cleaning than before.

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Has the machine shop guy's seen the pistons ? Have you talked with them about the piston to wall gap's ?

 

Having the surfaces decked is a good idea, helps the HG seal. You do have ARP heads studs going in, right ?

A may have asked that already, but they are that important.

 

If your doing the rings, do you know to open the gaps up a little more then the manual say's too ?

The instructions included with the pistons calls for ring gap of bore x 0.0065

That puts it at 0.025 on cylinder 1

 

When I turned the piston around and measured it at the skirt it had the appropriate .003 I was measuring with a feeler gauge. I know that they are competent Adrian has built several of these engines.

 

I'll post a pic of the piston sitting in the bore so the skirts are out.

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It is completely do-able to open up the gear, but you need a 5-lobe tool of the right size and a mandrel to align the back plate when you put it back together. I did this in my rebuild. See post #45 here

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-legacy-gt-wagon-bone-stock-rebuild-239871p3.html

 

At the time I understood the formed o-rings to be unavailable, and nothing I have heard since contradicts this. OutFront has a stock of old ones they can lean on if they break one on teardown. And it is possible.

 

If you don't align the back plate, then the running surface at the cam seal will be out by whatever the amount. Up to 1 thou by my estimates, which could cause some troubles with pounding out the seals. If you have access to a lathe, making an alignment mandrel is worth it, but you still have the problem of preserving the o-ring seals on teardown and reassembly.

 

In short, a simple job but with a risk you will be worse off after cleaning than before.

I can't risk any problems.

So I'll just shop them off Monday.

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If you look at one of my posts on the first page of my rebuild thread I listed the FSM specified ring gaps for LGTs and the "a little bigger" ring gap specified for STIs (same motor). The gap called out in the LGT FSM will work, or choose to go with the larger gap specified for STIs. In the end do whatever you feel comfortable with.

 

A very general rule of thumb says you need at least 0.004" gap per inch of bore (.004 x 3.925).

 

FWIW my rings were pre-gapped to the STI spec, and I haven't observed any measurable oil consumption since my rebuild 2000 miles ago.

 

Sent from inner space.

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I got some stuff done today. It's funny how a sense of reality sets in when you start the process of reassembling these.. Like dark voice in your subconscious... DON'T F THIS UP...

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/ca96740f5c2bf8f97cf58237bfe33dfb.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/256c88c1d6b6e1c598fc6868640c146a.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/3e6732f34afbff0a51341e917532b96e.jpg

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Good luck! I'm interested in hearing how long it takes to get all of those in the right spots. Is there any particular reason why you took them all off at once instead of just replacing them one at a time?

 

Full engine rebuild and intake assembly tear down for cleaning all the little metal bits out of everything.

The hose issues aren't going to be too bad the manual shows them pretty well

the challenge is locating which file each assembly view is hidden in.

Several of them have just fallen into place really.

 

The little bent fuel lines around the regulation parts under & around

the intake I'm probably going to have to buy OEM because trying to

use straight line is just going to suck in those tight spaces.

 

The good news is much better, Its really hard to even think about

admitting this, but the dumb side of my brain took over.

I have been reading my torque wrench wrong and everything I have

done so far is over torqued by ten.

 

There are 4 small holes that get to be tapped to the next size up.

I may just do them all for sake of matching hardware.

Luckily I noticed it only after doing one head... :icon_excl

I will be taking her back apart and making sure everything is torqued correctly.

 

Projects wouldn't be any fun if they didn't beat us back once in a while right..

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Made some progress despite buying a washing machine, returning it, rebuilding the old one. And working nearly 60hrs this week.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/403863b64f1fc8fba79e23f742233fa8.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/1ff41d6845a236f71825dcfe62bc0f0e.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/710f84b6238ffcb86bf75cb391791298.jpg

 

I found a cnt front mount kit for sale on face book. It showed up today.

 

One more part of the check list.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/92682dfd8abf0e3177ea45bdc85957aa.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/d3a1cb34aba6411a05c9ad03ceef77e2.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/f32b3a349b5c1f7e7ec3474ec15c6219.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/b3e5964ccf80a964fef313ef506b111e.jpg

 

Still need to locate some injectors and a fuel pump &Turbo

 

Not sure If I mentioned I found a good deal on a V2 Access port a well.

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