Senseless1's 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.2 NA-T Build

[Senseless1]

Without looking up the big grey SMJ plug I have found 3 connectors that mate the front harness to bulkhead harness listed in the engine electrical system diagram.

Connector F45 16 pin connector color listed as [*] my harness is white connects to bulkhead No. B62

Connector F2 20 pin connector Blue connects to bulkhead No. B100

Connector F74 24 pin connector Black (Turbo only) connects to bulkhead No. B200

Going to start cutting again.

Edited April 20, 2020 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

Wiring update: basically have the ecu free from the rest of the harness.

I was concerned about wiring differences but didn't want to waste hours looking stuff up just yet, so I kept all the wiring travelling through the front harness to ECU, Accel pedal, O2, and I kept the Green diag plugs as well as the obd2 connector. I haven't completed the pinout conversion spreadsheet yet, so I thought better to keep those circuits. Once I pull the legacy harness next week, I'm willing to bet I'll find many similar circuits. I also know I won't need the conversion spreadsheet completed until I have both harnesses, so I will be continuing on with mechanical work along side building out the spreadsheet.

I'm gambling that if I wait until I have both harnesses in front of me the spreadsheet will go faster than on diagrams alone. I'm having to prioritize other things right now though. I have a small window to do mechanical work, so this juggling is necessary, however inefficient.

[Senseless1]

How to wire an 04 forester XT fuel Pump controller into the 1998 legacy gt wagon harness:

R122 is the connector at the fuel pump controller, R15 is under the right side of the right rear seat area.

Fuel Pump controller 1998 SUBARU LEGACY GT EJ25

R122-10-BY goes to R15-1-BR or B97-7-BR or at pump R58-1-LY steals connection placing controller inline. Wire going towards fuel pump to be used later

R122-5-B goes to R15-3-B (replaces engine ground for fuel pump)

R122-7-BOr goes to R15-3-B wire goes back to controller now instead of ground

R122-6-BW goes to Gets the cut end of R15-1-BR going to fuel pump as power feed

 

The remaining two wires should've been left intact when pairing down the harness and go back to the 04 FXT ecu as follows.

R122-9-LgR -> pin D28 or B137-28-LgR

R122-8-LgB -> pin B26 LgB or B135-26-LgB

Edited April 21, 2020 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

Did a bunch of mechanical work today. I measured the front swaybar out to 20mm on the Forester. I have an 18mm ej22t front swaybar. I'm going to see if it's possible to squeeze the Forester swaybar in place just in case. I already have an 18mm outback rear sway bar. Edited April 23, 2020 by Senseless1

[doublechaz]

Should work fine with the right bushings.

[Senseless1]

Should work fine with the right bushings.

 

That's what I was hoping. The whiteline website gives different part numbers for turbo and non turbo, so that was my logic in giving it a try.

Turbo subframe, turbo control arms, turbo sway bar.

 

If anyone needs forester parts including a VLSD 4.44 rear diff let me know. I would love to sell my open diffs (4.11 (98 LGT 5mt), 3.90(2008 wrx 5mt) open, and 4.44 VLSD 04FXT ) and get one of those Russian LSDs on ebay I keep seeing for $400.

 

If I had a press I would tear it apart and use it, but seems cheaper to just sell it, buy what I need or a Russian aftermarket lsd.

Here is an example of my 04 FXT ecu pinout I made from scratch:

2004 FXT

A1 ***MT Model BR AT Model GR Cruise switch and indicator light

A10 L TGV LH OUT

A11 LY TGV LH IN

a12 LgB ground side pressure solenoid valve

a13 BrY ground side of drain valve

A14 WL ground side purge control solenoid

a15 LR Cruise switch and indicator light

a16 Cruise switch and indicator light

A17 RW MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT

A18 L ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID RH IN

A19 Gr ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID LH IN

A2 W → front oxygen sensor unshielded

A23 G COMBINATION METER

A24 RL INTERNAL PRESSURE SOLENOID VALVE TO JOINT

A25 SB ground for shielded cable of oxygen sensor

A26 W ->front oxygen sensor shielded insulation

A28 R ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID RH OUT

A29 RY ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID LH OUT

A3 W ->Front oxygen sensor unshileded t's off A2

A32 BW ground side of wastegate solenoid valve

A33 B ->Front oxygen sensor

A34 BL GROUNDED FOR MT ONLY T's into pin D2 and D1

A6 BY ENGINE GROUND

A7 BY T'S INTO A6

A8 YG TGV RH OUT

A9 LG TGV RH IN

B1 BW ENGINE GROUND T'D OFF TO PIN B4

B10 L CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR IN SHIELDED SHIELD GROUNDED AT PIN C31

B12 B ENGINE GROUND

B15 Or GROUND SIDE IGNITION COIL NO 4

B16 YR GROUND SIDE IGNITION COIL NO 3

B17 YL GROUND SIDE IGNITION COIL NO 2

B18 Y GROUND SIDE IGNITION COIL NO. 1

B19 BR ->ground coil sonctrol side of main relay T's off to data link connector

B2 RW - > rear oxygen sensor unshielded

B22 G CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR OUT SHIELDED SHIELD GROUNDED AT PIN C31

B24 GR MAIN SUB FAN RELAY 2

B25 RL MAIN SUB FAN RELAY 1

B26 LgB Fuel pump control module

B27 GY TCU(ATONLY)/VSS(MTONLY)CONNECT BOTH, COMBINATION METER

B33 Br AUTO A/C CONTROL MODULE

B35 YR → Ground control side electric throttle relay

B4 BW T'S INTO PIN B1

B5 YL → main relay power out

B6 YL T's off B5

B8 R ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL ANGLE SENSOR LH

B9 W ACTIVE VALVE CONTROL ANGLE SENSOR RH HAS T GOING AVC ANGLE SENSOR LH OUT

c10 RW Cruise switch and indicator light

c11 LgB Cruise switch and indicator light

c12 LB fuel temp sensor to common sensor ground

C14 BY COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -> TGV VALVE ANGLESENSOR RH + OUT HAS T GOING TO ENGINE SHIELD AND SENSOR GROUND JOINT CONNECTOR

C15 LG ACCEL POSITION SENSOR

C16 Sb ELECTRIC THROTTLE SHARED SENSOR GROUND W/ THROTTLE PRESSURE SENSOR TGV ANGLE SENSOR LH TGV ANGLE SENSOR RH T'D TO ENGINE GROUND

C17 R ACCEL POSITION SENSOR

C18 LG ELECTRIC THROTTLE ¾+

C20 BrW FUEL SUB LEVEL SENSOR->FUEL LEVEL SENSOR->ENGINE GROUND

c21C21 B136-21-GOr GoR fuel tank pressure sensor to common sensor ground grounds all sensor and shielding to pin c35

C22 YB POSITIVE TO PRESSURE SENSOR

C23 PL shileded cable to airflow sensor

c24 WB EXHAUSE GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR TO JOINT GROUND with oxygen sensors

C25 Y KNOCK SENSOR INSHIELDED CABLE GROUNDED TO PIN C33 AND ENGINE

C26 BrY TGV VALVE ANGLESENSOR LH +

C27 RY TGV VALVE ANGLESENSOR RH + IN

C28 L ACCEL POSITION SENSOR

C29 R ELECTRIC THROTTLE 4/4+

c3 PG ground side for fuel injector #4

C30 BrB ac pressure switch

C31 BG airflow sensor unshielded MUST BE COMMON GROUND

c32 SB ground for shieled cable on c23

C33 SB GROUND FOR SHIELDING ON PIN C25

C34 Y ACCEL POSITION SENSOR

c35 GR shield and sensor ground joint connector

C4 PB ground side for fuel injector #3

C5 PL ground side fuel injector #2

C6 P ground side fuel injector #1

c7 GL Cruise switch and indicator light

c8 WB Cruise switch and indicator light

c9 RY Cruise switch and indicator light

D1 BL T'S INTO A34(->ENGINE GROUND) HAS t BACK TO PIN D2

D10 OrB POWER STEERING OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

D11 L TO INTEGRATED MODULE

D12 BP TO LIGHTING SWITCH

D13 GB AUTO A/C CONTROL MODULE

D14 Or t'S INTO LINE END CONNECTOR

D15 GR → coil control side of power side of fuel pump relay. And T's off to ignition coil no1

D16 LY AUTO A/C CONTROL MODULE

D17 LgW→ power control side of main relay

D18 PG TCU in

D2 BL T'S INTO D1 → A34

D20 GrB DATALINK CONNECTOR WITH A T GOING TO CHECK CONNECTOR

D24 R PCV DIAG CONNECTOR

D25 W rear oxygen sensor shielded cable

D26 RY TCU out

D28 LgR Fuel pump control module → fed power through fuel pump relay

D29 RW LINE END CHECK CONNECTOR

D3 BrB ENGINE GROUND

D31 SB rear oxygen sensor shielded cable ground

D4 BrW ELECTRIC THROTTLE ¼ +

D5 Br ELECTRIC THROTTLE ½+

D6 YG Ground side of electronic throttle relay

D7 Bor ENGINE GROUND

D8 ground side inhibitor switch/gear selector switch → starter interript relay ->ign->batt+

D8 YL ground side inhibitor switch/gear selector switch → starter interript relay ->ign->batt+

D9 (MT only GB) WR AT only → power feed batt + to inhibitor switch/gear selector switch NUETRAL POSITION SWITCHpin 1 TO GROUND MANUAL

L Blue B Black Y Yellow G Green R Red W White Br Brown Lg Light green Gr Gray P Pink Or Orange Lb Light Blue V Violet SA Sealed (Inner) SB Sealed (Outer

C13 BR pin 4 MAF sensor

B31 SB ground for shielding on pins B10 and B22 CPS

 

Fuel Pump controller

R122-10-BY

R122-5-B

R122-7-BOr

R122-6-BW

[Senseless1]

ugh TBH I really don't want to work on the car today, but I set a goal to have the chassis out by tomorrow. I need to pull engine, trans, rear end, front sway bar. The exhaust kicked my butt yesterday. 90% of the fasteners are not reusable. 30% of them broke. I was using a half inch ratchet and prayers for my harbor freight 1/2" to 3/8" adapter...

 

Working outside of my work bay from the floor of a storage unit is pretty not cool. The only light is on a 30 min timer, that likes to go off when I'm deep in or under something.

 

Here we go, cupcake phase of swap is over lol

[Senseless1]

So I guess my post was some good foreshadowing, because last night was a scheduling disaster. Progress is progress, but what I thought was a worn out crank pulley was actually a loose crank bolt and wiped woodruff key. I already had a spare pulley, but the key and oem new sprocket on order for pickup later.

 

Literally problems trying everything last night:

Forgot parts store closed early and lost ~45 min and then got to work with no gloves.

Then loosening first belt the new reman alternator has a stripped fastener.

Loosening the second belt I wasn't paying attention and damaged some threads on the AC compressor bracket.

 

Cracked the avcs actuator plastic. Then forgot they're under tension until I popped it off to get access to run a tap through to fix my F-up.

I'm 80% sure I spun it back to the correct position. 100% sure I was done dealing with it at that point.

 

I need to leave the AC system sealed until I can get to a shop on the way to the junkyard to have this nasty stuff sucked out. The AC compressor bracket is a hoist point though so I had to remove and install the bracket essentially...

Started cracking bell housing bolts carefully after the night's BS up to this point.

Stay calm . Be extra careful. Etc etc

I can't crack anymore fuel lines until I get to a parts store for tubing. I'm going to use a powerprobe (My PP) to excite the pump to pump the fuel straight into my daily driver gas tank.

Moved on to pulling jamb nuts from inner tie rods. Sucked without my bahco pliers, but back to basics.

Ran out of time at that point.

Trailer lined up for tomorrow so today it's get whatever I'm keeping...

[Senseless1]

Alright just helped my wife's female friend not get ripped off by service writers and taught her how to do her own brakes. Now to get back to the real work. It's really difficult watching someone struggle with tools. I really wanted to just do it really quick for her lol

[doublechaz]

Give a man a fish, teach him to go fishing...

 

Good work.

[Senseless1]

Engine is out. I'm really freaking over working out of a storage unit on jack stands...

Disposal time. Gave up on sway bar. Most of the fasteners underneath are seized and I'm grouchy lol

 

Oh yeah! More surprises...one of the bell housing threads has a damaged improperly installed helicoil and I had to run a tap through another that must have been cross threaded or corrosion rolled a thread coming out.

This freaking car is fighting me...

Edited April 26, 2020 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

What a day... 13 hours of ops coordinating...

Finished pulling the engine, front harness, power steering, then cleaned up and got the rental truck and auto transport. Manually loaded Forester with a ratchet straps, come along, and the bolt and chain off my hoist. I bolted the chain right to the uhaul trailer. Took way too long. Rained. Barely made it to the junkyard before they close to send off the shell. A friend met up and helped me get the wagon flat towed to a location that we could load it still in the rain. Prior to loading the wagon the alignment had to be adjusted (just hand tight) and outer tied rod installed to get it to track straight from the new steering rack. Lost a front bumper mount and a mirror. Come along kept breaking in the dark rain. I forgot my headlamp.

Lots of struggles. I suck at backing trailers.

 

More importantly. In a little more than a week I have the donor stripped and recycled and the wagon in the storage unit.

 

Towing fees at about $60 after payment for recycling the shell.

 

Found a buyer for the downpipe.

This engine is a turd, but if it holds out for another year at at least 300whp being babied I'll be happy.

Bought a direct port methanol nozzle and solenoid kit. Need pump and lines. So tired

[Senseless1]

Towing like this sucks in the cold rain on no runner cars

o7

[Senseless1]

Today's progress was getting a new crank sprocket and woodruff key, returning uhaul, and selling the 04 fxt downpipe. Also realized my daily needs new tires. I have sidewall bubbles forming on all 4 tires. They're only 8 months old... I guess I better stick with a more firm tire like Goodyear. Now both my cars need tires

[Senseless1]

I have decided I'm going to straight away use my aftermarket uel exhaust manifold, up pipe 18gtx and full catless exhaust, so that fxt stuff is not going to be used. Although I would almost bet the stock up pipe and manifold might spool faster.

I purchased a new japan sourced timing belt and water pump kit, crank sprocket, woodruff key, spare crank pulley, moroso oil pickup (oil pan needs reseal anyways.), I'll probably buy an aftermarket turbo inlet and throw my cone filter with maf adapter intake setup on. I need to replace the right side OCV, rear main and oil separator look great.

I have one bellhousing bolt to helicoil.

oil change. I want to swap out for a 3port EBCS as well if I can find my spare. If not I'll steal the one off my other car.

Swap flex plate for my lightweight flywheel and clutch kit.

Oh yeah I also have fresh spark plugs, magnetic oil plug, and I'll probably need to do valve cover gaskets while its out as well.

 

I think that's going to be plenty to get me started. The car already has a walbro 255 so I should be able to max the stock injectors if I don't run out of room on the stock TMIC ( I think I have an 07 fxt and 04 fxt TMIC). I will do TGV deletes and direct port water/methanol injection at the same time. Actually I may leave the stock inlet pipe and do the TGVs inlet and meth injection all at once so I'm not messing with the intake manifold a bunch of times.

Edited April 30, 2020 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

[Senseless1]

Just clean and organize in the unit today. I had to dig out all my random parts and basically take an inventory of what tools and parts are where.

I am doing harness work tonight.

Really want to be in a position to just try and leave the 1998 harness in and just run the new stuff parallel and keep all splices in the passenger footwell. It would be nice if I could just pull the dash back and not remove it fully. Idk we will see

Ej255 won't be ready to drop in until next thursday due to parts shipping., So it's remove old engine and work harness side of the swap.

Curious about the FXT seat swap, but want to keep it moving on the swap. I want to be out of my covered storage space by 5/15, so all underside and engine bay work needs completed by then. The rest can be completed in my parking lot if needed.

Current goal is to have the old engine out and in storage off site by this weekend. I need to finish up the front steering system and test fit cooling system.

Turbo seems to have absolutely no shaft play, but the oil drain appears to be the source of the major engine oil leak. Good thing I'll be using my own turbo and drain/feed lines. Also resealing valve covers and oil pan.

[Senseless1]

I just found a gem lol this is basically full bolt ons single port ej22e no tuning

[doublechaz]

Looks a lot like my dyno sheet for my 2.2. What kind of mods did you have on the 2.2?

[Senseless1]

Looks a lot like my dyno sheet for my 2.2. What kind of mods did you have on the 2.2?

 

https://youtu.be/duua37cAToI

Here's is a video.

Per the caption looks like just the exhaust I have for sale currently

Infernofab single port uel and cat delete pipes. 2 1/4" I believe

Mated to a modified orm sti 2.5 catback exhaust. Oem sti muffler.

Ej25d ECU

AFE drop in panel filter.

I think this was also using the 96 outback ej22 Intake elbow without the torque box.

MSD coil pack.

 

I really wish I had the ability to tune that old ecu. I think that 2.2 dohc hybrid I had was easily capable of 330whp on 93 octane had I been motivated enough to install and learn to use the emanage ultimate I have.

[doublechaz]

Found mine.

http://mynet.whitehat-inc.com/subaru/dyno.jpg

 

I didn't know them so I told them they could go to 5500 rpm, but they didn't know me or my car and seems they were being careful which is cool.

 

My mods at the time:

K&N panel filter.

Modified intake pipe from airbox to TB.

Polished and thermal coated intake.

TB coolant passage delete.

Grimmspeed 8mm intake spacers.

Polished intake and exhaust ports.

Internally cleaned up OE exhaust manifold wrapped.

Some kind of 'high flow' cats from Jeggs. One of these was crushed offroading and I believe was plugged up with its own guts at the time of the run.

Straight through muffler.

Edited May 1, 2020 by doublechaz

[Senseless1]

NA-T ready to come out tomorrow.

[Senseless1]

Wrap color idea. Yes I've given up on pretending I want a mild build LOL

After the hood exit exhaust on the BRZ why not this color on the wagon:

https://www.metrorestyling.com/Avery-SW900-Color-Flow-Series-Gloss-Rising-Sun-p/sw900-447-s.htm

I'm thinking sand car back down to primer and body work everything smooth again then send it off to get wrapped. Would be great to have a wrap shop sponsor it if I can build a car worthy of it. Even a discount would be cool.

[Senseless1]

Today's update:

My cheap kmotor cam lock tool wasn't machined all the way so I need to grind down the tool to use it. Lower front timing cover bolt was seized and the head was rusted off. My extractor set skipped 9mm so I had to break the timing cover to get it apart there. Looks like the crankshaft might be salvageable from the wiped keyway. Thinking about doing a full carbon wrap now maybe: https://www.metrorestyling.com/3M-Printed-Gloss-Real-D-Metallic-Carbon-Fiber-3-0-p/3mmetallic-reald3.htm

[Senseless1]

New water pump is in, but holy crap this half wiped keyway is kicking my ass. The crank sprocket does not want to come out due to the half friction welded woodruff key.

After a nice little panic attack realizing I don't have tools for this not the budget to pay a machine shop I realized the sprocket has two round holes in it. I'm going to run a tap through them and threadlock some fasteners bolted to a plate bolted to a slide hammer and just hope for the best.

I may wait for a colder morning and use an upside down can of air duster inside where the crank bolt goes and use a torch of the sprocket before giving her some wavjs with the slide hammer. If I'm lucky the woodruff key comes out with it. The crank snout is def a little wobbled. After some research the half assed repair for this typically involves loctite 660 a liquid steel adhesive. I'll be using red loctite on the crank bolt with all new stuff. Hopefully I don't end up shredding ac and alternator belts.

 

Oh well beggers can't be choosers and I'm about 2 weeks out from deadline. Waiting on parts and tools now