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I Donated Too
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About Brighton96

  • Birthday 11/22/1992

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  • Location
    Northern Virginia
  • Car
    1996 2.2 Legacy Wagon
  • Interests
    Working on and modifying anything on wheels


  • User Title
    Knower of Little

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  1. Yep, still needs more love before I go back to dailying it though
  2. In my experience, the first numbers on the turbos data plate are in reference to the center cartridge of the turbo so if that's the case here, the shop would need to know its a VF19. Usually when OEM suppliers alter turbos for specific applications, they change out the housings and then add additional numbers to the end of the turbos data plate to specify. I suspect 9604 & 26 066E are referencing the housing sizes.
  3. Not Dead Yet Update It felt like way longer but I guess it's only been a year since I last posted, in that time literally nothing has been done to the car aside from the occasional drive. The rust got to the point it was either fix it or scrap the car, no more just ignoring it. So, 10 ish hours of labor and a few days later the strut cancer is "fixed" The rust was bad but most the structural stuff was okay, so I cut out all the cancer, treated all the rust with tannic acid paint, made 16/22 gauge panels and sandwiched them all together with panel bond. The 16 gauge was used for more structural parts and then I remade the vertical supports from flat bar. They were all welded in place and then I went back over with panel bond and filled in any gaps or imperfections so it should be more than enough. Is it pretty? Absolutely not. Did I channel the spirit of Ray Charles when I welded it? yyyeaahh... Will it buy me a few more year? Probably. Couple days to let it cure, then seam seal and paint with the same rust paint, then back on the ground for a month or so until I can tackle the quarter panel rust which should be easy in comparison.
  4. You can keep limping it along by putting thicker fluid in it (lucas stuff) but at some point it will leave you stranded. I'm going through the same sort of issue with my other car, it'd drive fine ish while cold and once it gets warm it slips a lot. Turns out it was a failing torque converter since the fluid was replaced a few times as well as the filter, and added lucas to bandaid fix it but only got a few weeks out of it before it fully failed ($1500 bill to swap a good used trans in.) From the sounds of where you are in the process, I'd say you can add lucas but I'd only expect a month or so left out of the trans. The costly part of transmission issues is labor, not so much the parts, you could possibly get lucky finding a mechanic hungry for work willing to swap a used trans in for $500 plus the cost of the used transmission but still, the juice might not be worth the squeeze.
  5. I had a lot of issues with the proportioning valve trapping air, I had to bleed the master cylinder, proportioning valve and each caliper/drum. If you have ABS then that would also need bleeding.
  6. The engine build date is located under the oil fill cap and, the block is stamped with the basic engine info under the power-steering pump.
  7. You mean fully clear like the alteza look? Or just clear turn signals like the JDM/EUDM market ones? I've seen both done, the alteza ones were custom made and had no info with the image so I have no idea how they did it.
  8. Dang that's a shame about the sedan but the wagon looks great and will be awesome to see it completed!
  9. Dumb question, is it out of gas or low enough that it could have pulled air into the fuel system? You can try pulling the fuel filter off the strut tower and empty it into a water bottle to see what condition the fuel is in, look for water, dirt, yellow/old fuel etc. Also while the filter is off, put the water bottle on the inlet line and turn the key to the position before starting, the fuel system SHOULD prime and dump some fuel into the bottle, if not, pump is faulty or not getting power.
  10. I would think the large amount of black smoke (unburnt fuel) would be the first system to look at. Could be injectors, faulty fuel pressure reg or even just the vacuum lines that operate it could be perished and leaking. Being that you are getting nothing, I'm leaking toward pressure reg, cause even if the injectors aren't spraying right, it's still TRY to start.
  11. I would bet IACV, they can be cleaned but it's tedious so a new replacement will save time. You could also try loosening the throttle position sensor while it's running to see if that changes anything. It's just 2 screws, don't remove them, only loosen slightly and then just twist the sensor a little to see if it continues to pulsate. This will obviously change the idle RPM but I'm curious to see if the car doesn't actually know where the idle is set and is compensating somehow.
  12. The hinges are just 4 bolts, and if I remember right, there are connectors in the roof that let you unplug the harness. You'll also have to swap the lock assembly too. It's a 2 person job but would take like 30 mins max.
  13. I don't think the IACV does much while driving, I think it's only really used at idle/closed throttle. Cleaning it won't hurt but don't think that'd solve your issue. Also that difference in octane won't do much, we typically run our cars on 87 here and NA subaru's don't seem to care. Oil viscosity plays a larger role than you'd think with MPG, I ran 0w-20 just as a test once and got up to 23mpg highway where the previous best was around 20 mpg (using 5w-30.) Also, I average 17/18mpg with a slightly refreshed engine so you really aren't that far off. I'd just chock it up as a tired engine and maybe injectors that aren't spraying properly.
  14. That could be a multitude of things, if it only happened once I wouldn't put too much effort into it, if it's nearly every time you accelerate hard then I'd look into it. Pull the spark plug, inspect and clean it. If it looks fine then you can try to swap plugs and wires to different cylinders and see if the code moves. If it doesn't I'd suspect maybe the #3 fuel injector is clogged or getting tired.
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