Senseless1's 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.2 NA-T Build

[Senseless1]

Still slacking on the video, but was able to get the radio bezel filed down to fit my new(er) double din headunit, polished the headlights, got FRS wheels and 225/55/17 Kuhmo Ecsta ASX tires mounted and balanced. I then washed the car and took some photos and more video I need to edit lol.

Anyways pics here:

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/GOasAd4.jpg

During (I kept the mounting, balancing, and valve stems in the family by throwing a local enthusiast side work)

http://i.imgur.com/6E7Ryli.jpg

After:

http://i.imgur.com/vV0MnJL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QYVrxJz.jpg

Still need subaru center caps LOL:

http://i.imgur.com/z0eNrlw.jpg

And going to try rolling the fenders on Thursday. All the shops around me either want too much, have too long a wait, or are just lazy with returning my calls.

One more with the red calipers up front peeking through. Really want to do the rears next.

http://i.imgur.com/Lb8PHC0.jpg

 

I originally planned on keeping my BRZ stockers for this purpose, but ended up finding a local deal on almost the exact wheels + center caps and lugs I wanted for the BRZ, but the guy wanted $500 + trade stock wheels. Considering the wheels I got are $1200 retail without tires or center caps I jumped lol

Fortunately I was able to find a younger guy in VA who sold me the wheels no TPMS for $100, paid $40 for mount, balance and valve stems, and tires from DTD on black friday sale for $285 after rebate.

 

With rolling the fenders this Thursday I'll definitely not be doing any video editing until this weekend. It definitely scrapes with a jack in the back seat. Kind of disappointed with having my winter car this low and less functional, but not enough to want to mess with the coils just yet. I also needed an excuse to buy a heat gun.

[Senseless1]

One more showing how bad the headlights got in just one year from their last cleaning. All I did was use a drill attachment from a restore kit with the included polish compound then wash with soapy water and rinsed.

http://i.imgur.com/Kcn5Y9X.jpg

[DOHCEJ22E1]

After:

http://i.imgur.com/vV0MnJL.jpg

 

This is glorious.

[thedeadhp]

Ugh I can't see the IMGUR links here at school... Will have to check in when I get home...

[Senseless1]

So after realizing all 4 tires rub and calling local shops for a week or longer waits. (One newer shop even just responded with, "our heat gun is broken."

I ended up just buying a cheap roller and heat gun to give it a go myself.

The rear was pretty straight forward, but there were two tabs in the front that secure the fender liner. I bent these tabs back to their original position after rolling the fender to secure the fender liner. The rear hasn't rubbed since, but I think I need to try bending those tabs a little more out of the way to keep the front from rubbing.

I am going to try and bend them as far as possible and still allow me to secure the fender liner and worst case may need to bend them further back and might consider zip ties to secure the fender liner to the tabs.

Pics:

http://i.imgur.com/vKMu6Yi.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RrIkPrF.jpg

Tiny bit more fender gap with just a roll:

http://i.imgur.com/hqxIAq6.jpg

Rolled lip:

http://i.imgur.com/sKBwps7.jpg

That's pretty damn flush:

http://i.imgur.com/Wbusp8a.jpg

 

I needed/wanted a heat gun anyway, but from all the quotes I received I still spent half of what all the quotes were, and I can now consider offering fender rolling as a service or re-sell the tool. Total cost for roller and heat gun with 2 day shipping was $79.00. I've also heard of places that will rent the stuff out to you for $50. I was trying to film and had to learn as I went, so I spent maybe 3 times as long on the first fender well and maybe an extra 10-20 minutes on the first front fender well due to deciding how to position the metal tabs.

I also ordered 2 sets of ej22t headgaskets from a friend at the dealership, and will hopefully be getting some hybrid build parts for christmas :dm::dm::dm:

[Senseless1]

Picked up some more goodies!!!

http://i.imgur.com/7AQ5AFA.jpg

This sucker is clean and low mileage. Supposedly sat on a shelf for several years.

 

Also got these bad boys for $41 a pop OEM ej22t headgaskets.

http://i.imgur.com/vRRrSKW.jpg

With this recent engine I now have enough parts for 2 DOHC hybrids and 2 high compression SOHC 2.5Ls I think I have a problem.

[Setnev]

Picked up some more goodies!!!

http://i.imgur.com/7AQ5AFA.jpg

This sucker is clean and low mileage. Supposedly sat on a shelf for several years.

 

 

Is that a EJ222?

[Senseless1]

Is that a EJ222?

 

I was told this is for a 96-99 imprezza. I did not look closely at it, but if so that means I have a high mileage phase 1 ej22 (Non EGR) in the car now, and a low mileage phase 2 2.2L on the pallet. I also have a 2.2L intake manifold with EGR in the event that I need to resolve the egr check engine light for emissions purposes.

 

If this is in fact an ej222, how would that affect my dohc hybrid plans? I see on wikipedia that the ej222 has the more up to date #5 thrust bearing (lending it to be a better stroker candidate IMO), better crank oiling, and higher compression.

 

I will need to do some more research and compare the two engines to see what kind of differences are evident from the exterior. Any tips on what to look for to distinguish phase 1 from phase two?

[Senseless1]

It looks like the ej222 cylinder see heads are different and maybe the intake manifold as well. I also have seen another reference that the 96 and earlier ej22e pistons are stronger than the newer style pistons. I am still considering my options of how to move forward. I believe the fastest way forward is to just have the set of DOHC heads on the shelf sent off to the machine shop and installed on the new low mileage short block with the OEM ej22t headgaskets, IACV, WRX oil pump, and my turbo parts. Then use the 96 ej22e in the car now to build a spare DOHC hybrid.

When the first motor fails, assuming the block and crank are okay rebuild the lower mileage motor with the STi rods I have and a set of wiseco forged pistons.

This plan gives me time to save money for a JDM trans from a stock turbo car before investing in a clutch capable of handling higher boost. I have an eye on a couple JDM transmissions with 4.11 FD but will likely need this setup to make it through next fall after my wedding before I can spend anymore money on fortifying the build.

[Brighton96]

Look inside the oil filler cap for the manufacture date, that'll help figure out exactly what it is. I looks like 2.5 heads but I didn't know they made a single outlet 2.5

[Setnev]

Easiest way to tell if it is a Phase II motor is to look at the casting marks on the block. On the right side of the block (with the crank pulley facing you) there is the word JAPAN, right below it is either 1 ridge or 2. If there is 1 ridge, it's a Phase II motor, if there is 2, then it's a Phase I. Also on the right side of the block, the block is casted with the VIN. I can run a carfax on it to tell you the exact car it came out of and estimated mileage.

 

I'm building a high compression build using a Phase I EJ25 bottom end and Phase II EJ222 heads. With that combo, it'll boost the compression to about 10.5:1. The Phase II EJ22 heads were also a lot better flowing than the 91-98 EJ22 and the 96-99 EJ25 heads. The 99 EJ25 is already a hybrid motor from the factory. It uses a Phase II EJ25 block and Phase I EJ25 heads found on the 96-98 engines. The electronics on the Phase II engines are different. If you use the EJ222 heads on a 98 and older Legacy/Outback, you need to use the matching intake manifold and need to swap harnesses (or in my case I'm building a conversion harness that doesn't require swapping any harness).

Edited December 29, 2016 by Setnev

[DOHCEJ22E1]

I'm building a high compression build using a Phase I EJ25 bottom end and Phase II EJ222 heads. With that combo, it'll boost the compression to about 10.5:1. The Phase II EJ22 heads were also a lot better flowing than the 91-98 EJ22 and the 96-99 EJ25 heads. The 99 EJ25 is already a hybrid motor from the factory. It uses a Phase II EJ25 block and Phase I EJ25 heads found on the 96-98 engines. The electronics on the Phase II engines are different. If you use the EJ222 heads on a 98 and older Legacy/Outback, you need to use the matching intake manifold and need to swap harnesses (or in my case I'm building a conversion harness that doesn't require swapping any harness).

 

EJ251/EJ221 heads/EJ25D V1 (1996) block - 10.4:1 w/EJ25D head gaskets.

EJ251/EJ221 heads/EJ25D V2 (1997-1999) block - 9.3:1 w/EJ25D head gaskets.

 

EJ25D head gaskets are just about 1.3mm thick and are your only option regarding these mixtures.

 

http://i.imgur.com/7AQ5AFA.jpg

This sucker is clean and low mileage. Supposedly sat on a shelf for several years.

 

That is without a doubt an EJ221/2/3. If your plan is to build a mix using this bottom end, sell the heads to recoup some of the cash, then prepare. You will not want to boost right away, as your compression ratio outcome will be quite high: EJ25D V2 (1997-1999) heads/EJ222 block - 10.6:1 w/0.8mm EJ222 head gasket, 10:1 w/1.3 head gasket, and 9.8:1 w/EJ22T head gaskets.

 

Your best option to drop the compression ratio is to switch out the pistons for those with a deeper dish. The bottom end itself is suitable for boost, with 5th position main and better crank/rods (same as EJ205). The pistons in this block will be your vice.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

And if you're thinking about using 1996 EJ25D heads on that bottom end, don't...

 

The 1996 EJ25D chambers are larger than the EJ22 bore, so you will end up with a mushroom chamber prone to cyclic heat events on the ends (where heat is cycled over and over until the piston edges melt since there is nowhere for the heat to go except through the material.)

Edited December 30, 2016 by DOHCEJ22E1

[Setnev]

EJ251/EJ221 heads/EJ25D V1 (1996) block - 10.4:1 w/EJ25D head gaskets.

EJ251/EJ221 heads/EJ25D V2 (1997-1999) block - 9.3:1 w/EJ25D head gaskets.

 

EJ25D head gaskets are just about 1.3mm thick and are your only option regarding these mixtures.

 

Shoot, I thought the V1 was the 96-97 EJ25 bottom end. My block is a EJ25 block is a 97 so that means my compression ratio will be no different than a stock EJ222.

[Senseless1]

Thanks for the info guys! In spite of this supposedly being my vacation week I haven't been able to get out there and check things out. With this being the 5th position thrust crank I've been wishing for and having a set of sti rods on hand, I might do some calling around to machine shops to see what I'm looking at for cost to just go after forged pistons and rebuild the bottom end with new bearings and have the rotating assembly balanced with using the wiseco pistons and sti rods. This would mean more work because I would need to pull the 2.2L out without having an engine ready to take it's place in order to save the lower mileage ej222 and lower mileage ej25d (98 Imprezza RS) heads for the forged piston build. Using parts laying around the garage I would then be able to build a high compression hybrid using the 96 ej22e sohc heads and a 97 ej25d legacy block as a spare while I save up money for the machine shop labor and pistons. That would give me a solid 5-10 year motor plan, but would result in the trans upgrade competing for money with the forged motor build. I guess it would be as risky as any other option, but set me up for the best parts combination for a stout forged motor build that would likely hold 350whp without being over stressed.

 

Just thinking out loud here, but maybe just get the old high mileage (260k+) ej22e shortblock hybrid in and keep boost at wastegate or lower to maximize the transmission's life, baby it until I can get the stronger JDM turbo car trans in, then go for the forged motor build. I could have a fun 220 -250 whp legacy with the vf39/18g hybrid turbo on wastegate pressure with rich tuning and just be more patient to end up with a better long term solution.

 

This build schedule would leave me with an ej222 with ~90k and an ej25d with 130k sealed and waiting for sti rods, bearings, and lower compression forged pistons. I already have the headgaskets for the high compression hyrbid and the ej22e in the car now only has maybe 5k miles since the timing kit/water pump, headgasket job was done with heads refreshed, so I could likely just throwing it together re-using all the parts I'f I can get the head gasket mating surface clean enough. Just for an emergency backup motor to buy me time to decide the best way forward financially should I blow up the high mileage dohc hybrid.

 

Decisions decisions...

I would definitely be lost without this great resource and your advice guys so thank you again!

 

Oh yes I almost forgot! I finally found an AFR/Boost gauge for sale used locally for a good price, so I am going to pick it up tomorrow morning. I would like to try and get as many parts installed before the turbo engine goes in so i can just toss the engine in bolt up the intake and exhaust and start tuning immediately. This unfortunately does mean i can't put off the emanage ultimate wiring any longer... This part has me the most intimidated of all even with the available DIYs

Edited December 31, 2016 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

So quick update:

Picked up the used AEM wideband+boost gauge, ordered vibrant resonator and had that welded in place of the OEM Sti resonator and a rusted section of pipe replaced by Andrewtech Automotive Monday. Car sounds much better now, but still gets loud under heavy throttle.

I registered for an all day autocross at Summit point Raceway in WV for February 5th I think. Going to just get some seat time and have some fun with my friend who has an old 5 series BMW drift car.

 

I just ordered the 98 ej25d timing belt kit (pretty sure I have one set of 97 dohc heads and a complete 98 dohc ej25d with lower miles) noteworthy because of the different tensioner style. Also ordered the 2007 legacy GT water pump, and cylinder head gasket kit with ej25d head bolts.

This leaves me with the full exhaust to buy, assuming the wrx oil pump teardown and inspection goes well, and likely some type of clutch upgrade (someone mentioned throwing an OEM WRX clutch disk and pressure plate on not sure if this is possible with the old style cable clutch trans).

 

I still need to buy a die grinder, carbide tip(s), and abrasive cartridge kit to port the turbo and whatever else I'm feeling froggy with.

I'll also likely have more custom exhaust expenses to mate the downpipe up and probably swap out the muffler to a straight through design.

All of these expenses and effort really having me question whether I should just wait and go for forged pistons, bore+hone, use STI rods, balance rotating assembly, and reassemble myself with new std size rod and main bearings.

Not blueprinting would save me cash, and I likely wouldn't want to pay to have the crank run down for oversized bearings. I assume the medium mileage engine parts I have coupled with new rings and forged pistons would be a much better setup than just leaving the bottom end alone and risking the ej222 pistons.

This way I can maybe get away with spending 1000 or less at the machine shop and be confident that the short block will be much more robust with the upgraded zero mile bearings, STi rods, forged pistons, balanced rotating assembly machine shop spec piston ring gaps, and WRX oil pump.

This might mean waiting another 8-12 months for finances unless a miracle happens and one of our families decides to chip in on our wedding, but I just don't think that it's worth it cutting this last corner and trusting the ej222 pistons not to mess up my better short block, or cutting corners by using the super high mileage ej221 with stronger pistons, but worse oiling, worse thrust bearing position, and super high mileage.

 

I've been agonizing over this for the past couple of weeks, trying to justify just slapping it together and making do, but I think in two years or maybe just the day I decide to throw a manual boost controller and having it not blow up

Is worth waiting the extra time.

Really wasn't expecting it to take 3 years to build this sucker, but I am thankful for the opportunity and availability of knowledge to try something like this.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Did you get the bracket to match the new tensioner?

[twisty]

fun fact, the T328 timing belt fits the EJ25 as well, which opens you up to using the turbo gates racing belt made of kevlar. it costs a lot, but hell why not. i just wish i had clear timing covers so you could see the pretty blue thing lol

[Senseless1]

Did you get the bracket to match the new tensioner?

I'm not sure which bracket you'r referring to as I have not begun disassembly of the 98 imprezza ej25d I picked up, but this is the kit I purchased. I also purchased the timing belt guide that comes on the automatics that is supposed to help keep the belt from jumping.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9PGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

fun fact, the T328 timing belt fits the EJ25 as well, which opens you up to using the turbo gates racing belt made of kevlar. it costs a lot, but hell why not. i just wish i had clear timing covers so you could see the pretty blue thing lol

 

I originally wanted the gates belt, but kept seeing reviews that the blue belts disintegrate and cause idlers to fail prematurely. Something about blue dust killing them. Seemed like a goo enough excuse to save some money and go with a regular belt for now. Not sure if it is actually true though.

Edited January 12, 2017 by Senseless1

[twisty]

I originally wanted the gates belt, but kept seeing reviews that the blue belts disintegrate and cause idlers to fail prematurely. Something about blue dust killing them. Seemed like a goo enough excuse to save some money and go with a regular belt for now. Not sure if it is actually true though.

 

hmmm, good to know. ill keep an eye out for that, but after a year and a half i have no dust (of any color) at all behind the covers, just had them pulled off a couple weeks ago to try and locate an oil leak. thankfully it wasnt behind the timing covers.

[Senseless1]

I'm wondering if I can just have the cylinders honed and drop in some ej22t pistons with new rings. CR would drop a lot, but having the vf39/18g turbo would flow enough to be okay. This would still get me close to 300 whp "reliably" and allow me to move the timeline up significantly.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

I'm wondering if I can just have the cylinders honed and drop in some ej22t pistons with new rings. CR would drop a lot, but having the vf39/18g turbo would flow enough to be okay. This would still get me close to 300 whp "reliably" and allow me to move the timeline up significantly.

 

T pistons would drop the compression ratio TOO much, but the extra ringland thickness would be a welcome thing. You can also go with the 14.5cc or 12.5cc pistons as well, the 12.5cc set having molybdenum coated skirts that make them rev-friendly. These pistons can withstand a fair amount of punishment (they will hold 300whp reliably). This way, you can retain low-end and midrange simultaneously for a comfortable powerband that makes use of the turbo at any range in the rpm.

[Senseless1]

T pistons would drop the compression ratio TOO much, but the extra ringland thickness would be a welcome thing. You can also go with the 14.5cc or 12.5cc pistons as well, the 12.5cc set having molybdenum coated skirts that make them rev-friendly. These pistons can withstand a fair amount of punishment (they will hold 300whp reliably). This way, you can retain low-end and midrange simultaneously for a comfortable powerband that makes use of the turbo at any range in the rpm.

 

Can you elaborate more on which year the 12.5cc pistons came in?

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Can you elaborate more on which year the 12.5cc pistons came in?

 

All 1997-1998 EJ22E's have them. They can be found in no other years.

[Senseless1]

Well I have another update for you guys. I stopped by Andrewtech Automotive and picked up some pistons today. The guy tried to tell me they were from a jdm engine afterwards, but they sure look like plain old usdm ej22t pistons to me:

http://i.imgur.com/OmnlKkT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Q1Cn0bm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/afC3kBS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Q1Cn0bm.jpg

 

I understand this will give me a super low compression, but I think it's better than the alternative of having almost 10:1 compression ratio.

I am going to go ahead and diy port a little bit here and there including the turbo and intake + exhaust manifolds and am currently waiting on a price quote to have some ej20g exhaust camshafts shipped over from AUS. I think the delta regrind would only be $500 or 800+ shipping on the camshafts I have already though. I'm debating using the money for cams or spending that to have an engine builder assemble the short block vs DIY as well. in any case I think enough parts are here that I can start working on getting things ready. I am currently begging Iwire to sell me a cheat sheet for wiring in my emanage ultimate so I can't screw that up. Waiting on a reply from them.