Senseless1's 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.2 NA-T Build

[Senseless1]

I am finally getting to a point where I am ready to begin making strides here so wanted to get a journal started here.

Here is my intro thread:

 

Hey everybody,

My name is Jon, and I am the proud owner of a 98 Legacy GT Wagon with a 96 outback ej22e donor engine and transmission. I am planning on going NA-T using a VF39 I picked up using information I've found here, RS25, nasioc, Facebook 1st gen and 2nd gen Subaru Legacy group, and a couple other websites.

I only have 1 year of formal auto tech training from back in high school, but my best friend is an actual mechanic. Knowing he can fix whatever I screw up has made me balsy enough to work on my own cars lol. I currently have a 2015 Subaru BRZ that I've upgraded with a 20g turbo, coilovers, Ecutek dyno tune, full exhaust, ACT clutch, and custom cold air intake. I installed everything except the clutch. I have already gathered many of the NA-T parts I need and plan to sell my 2007 Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle to fund the rest of my LGT build. Hopefully I can get it sold quickly and finish amassing parts to begin the conversion. I am planning to make videos as I progress to hopefully help others looking to make their second gen s a little more fun! Thanks for having such a great source of information available here, and I look forward to adding to the discussion! Looks like I can't upload pics from my phone, so I'll have to add some photos when I get my build thread going from a regular PC.

 

This weekend I am finally ready to get moving on paint. I do not want to invest heavily in aesthetic mods at this point, and knowing that I have used body filler instead of having the holes from the roof rack and weird plastic trim filled with metal this body work is experimental and temporary.

 

I will be making the car flat by filling in dents and hail damage and plasti dipping the car matte red this weekend to get the car one color.

 

I have some coilovers arriving Friday and custom exhaust utilizing an OEM STi 2.5" catback that Zury Fabrications in Maryland is going to weld up for me Monday. I will try to get the coilovers on next week, but If I film the install, then I'll need to wait until the weekend after next.

 

More importantly I need to fix the terrible exhaust and get the car to be one color.

 

Knowing how extensive the engine build and NA-T process will in conjunction with working on the BRZ (Turbo rebuild, custom exhaust work, carbon rear diffuser install) I am going to just work on throwing the smaller stuff I have laying around already and save the major stuff until next spring because this is my winter beater lol

Tint, head unit, speakers, amplifier, heated seats, ej25d ecu swap (currently running the 2.2l ecu for emissions)

 

Parts I have for the NA-T:

cometic headgasket

vf39 that needs rebuilt

ej25 dohc heads

oem STi injectors

Emanage ultimate

06-07 wrx intercooler

ej25d intake manifold

ej22t idle air control valve

wrx oil pump

ej22t crossmember

ej22t front swaybar

wrx oem bypass valve

mishimoto catch can

 

Things I know i still need:

vf39 rebuild kit (Might do 18g compressor cover and billet wheel or just new chra with billet wheel)

ej25d fuel rails

walboro 255 lph

msd ingitor

arp head studs for ej25

acl/king bearings,

pistons

wrx oil pan

intake elbow

exhaust manifold

uppipe

downpipe

custom exhaust with electric cutout for oem sti catback

emanage ultimate wired up

clutch kit

cylinder heads rebuilt

 

I'm sure there is more i'm missing, but am drawing a blank right now

Edited November 30, 2016 by Senseless1

[Senseless1]

derp! I forgot gauges

I need AFR, Oil Pressure, Boost, oil temp.

Sort of important

[Senseless1]

Got the car flat and smooth with filler and primed so that I can get the most consistent color with the plasti-dip this weekend.

 

I am really conflicted with what to do with the VF39 I have that needs a rebuild.

The two options I have are to get a new CHRA from the UK with a billet wheel or for about $100 less I can buy a rebuild kit and an 18g compressor cover and billet wheel and do the rebuild myself. Not sure about CHRA rebalancing with the rebuild + new wheel, but the price difference would probably give me enough room to cover that cost.

 

Keeping in mind I only have Sti yellow side feeds (and don't really want to fork over the money for new 740cc DW injectors to really run an 18g) should I:

 

1: Buy the new CHRA with billet wheel from a Melett distributor and max out the VF39 and risk needing to invest a large chuck of change in supporting mods to squeeze 300 whp out of it or

2: Buy the rhf55 rebuild kit and 18g compressor cover and billet wheel and perform the rebuild myself to give me an easier time of hitting 300 whp

What do frands?

[Senseless1]

Here is my NA-T resume:

This is my 2015 Subaru BRZ latest Dyno. They had a wire malfunction so no torque

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/jonathanbrz.png

 

Pic dump incoming for legacy stuff

[Senseless1]

Here she is the day I brought her home as a roller:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150919_174638468_HDR.jpg

 

Rear bumper damage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150923_111818870_HDR_2.jpg

 

Missing trim:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150923_111904435_HDR_1.jpg

 

damage antenna. This thing must've been the bee's knee's back in 98!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150923_111917210.jpg

 

damaged front bumper:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150923_130116645_1.jpg

 

looking for rust, which killed the last chassis

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150924_161104424_HDR_1.jpg

 

searching for rust: No rust but gross!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150924_180019094_HDR_1.jpg

 

cleaned:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150927_135818398_1.jpg

 

roof racks aren't that cool:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150927_132934383_1.jpg

 

rear bumper damage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20151006_174929642_HDR_1.jpg

 

not too happy to find this hail damage on top of my roof rack holes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150927_162301695_1.jpg

 

rust prevention to stay in it for the long haul:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20151011_181356201_HDR_1.jpg

 

when you need to paint stuff and you live in your apartment, but your fiance is about to move home:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20151208_110148588_HDR_1.jpg

 

infernofab cat delete super loud lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20151229_164507815_1.jpg

 

BRZ wheel swap:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/BRZ%20WHEELS.jpg

 

touched up spots that needed filler and primed over anything that wasn't grey to prepare for palsti-dip this weekend.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/TURDPAINT.jpg

 

Got dark and phone died so no pics so far. I'm getting better with the filler, but regret not having a body shop weld up all the holes from the roof rack and trim on rear wheel wells because after filling those I was told that they would inevitably crack and open back up. I am just going to band aid that with plasti-dip while I move on to the engine build and NA-T

Edited June 10, 2016 by Senseless1
lots of pics messed some up lol

[Senseless1]

Things I forgot to mention:

The engine came out of an outback, so I snagged the rear sway bar from that, and I went with group N engine and transmission mounts. I also have polished the headlights and have full stereo system and tint on deck and have already serviced the AC.

 

The engine has pretty much just been resealed (headgaskets) new water pump and timing kit, new flywheel and pretty new OEM clutch kit.

 

At the end of the day this is my winter car, so I am having trouble finding a cohesive vision for the car beyond the vague fun daily driver. I am unsure whether I want to style the exterior aggressively or just embrace the 90s curves.

I am 100% sure that I want just enough rice for people to assume it is slow, so I can at least goad some more expensive cars into a losing run on occasion.

[monkeyposeur]

If you're bent on getting 300whp out of your build then just get a Blouch 20g xt and some ID 1000ccs and run a conservative tune and have plenty of headroom for later. I'm getting 340 whp 280 tq out of mine without maxing it out.

 

But sounds like this is just your winter beater so VF39 is a good choice for a fun daily. I haven't used emanage ultimate so nothing to say there. But of course the better option is a wiring harness merge with an 02-03 WRX so at least you can tune the damn thing properly with opensource, haha.

 

I'd ditch the cometics and just use OEM MLS HGs unless the Cometics are gonna get you a specific compression you are after. I'd also consider using OEM bearings instead of ACLs. ACLs are good and all, but had some quality issues not too long ago.

 

STi oil pan is better than the WRX oil pan so if you can just get the STi setup. Get a Moroso oil pick up while you are at it for peace of mind. It's not as pretty as the Killer B but beefy and super nice.

 

I deleted my stupid rubber roof protector rails and just used bondo and glazing compound. Five years later and no cracks. I spent a ton of time getting the frame straight, sanding, bondo-ing, glazing, primer-ing, painting... lol. Yeah it takes a ton of time to do it right.

 

I wouldn't rice it at all. People will assume it is slow just cause it is an old subie.

 

What 20g are you running on your BRZ? 300 hp seems a bit low at your altitude for a 20g unless you have an older, smaller 20g.

 

All in all seems you have a good handle on what you are doing! Keep up the good work man!

[Senseless1]

If you're bent on getting 300whp out of your build then just get a Blouch 20g xt and some ID 1000ccs and run a conservative tune and have plenty of headroom for later. I'm getting 340 whp 280 tq out of mine without maxing it out.

 

 

But sounds like this is just your winter beater so VF39 is a good choice for a fun daily. I haven't used emanage ultimate so nothing to say there. But of course the better option is a wiring harness merge with an 02-03 WRX so at least you can tune the damn thing properly with opensource, haha.

 

I'd ditch the cometics and just use OEM MLS HGs unless the Cometics are gonna get you a specific compression you are after. I'd also consider using OEM bearings instead of ACLs. ACLs are good and all, but had some quality issues not too long ago.

 

STi oil pan is better than the WRX oil pan so if you can just get the STi setup. Get a Moroso oil pick up while you are at it for peace of mind. It's not as pretty as the Killer B but beefy and super nice.

 

I deleted my stupid rubber roof protector rails and just used bondo and glazing compound. Five years later and no cracks. I spent a ton of time getting the frame straight, sanding, bondo-ing, glazing, primer-ing, painting... lol. Yeah it takes a ton of time to do it right.

 

I wouldn't rice it at all. People will assume it is slow just cause it is an old subie.

 

What 20g are you running on your BRZ? 300 hp seems a bit low at your altitude for a 20g unless you have an older, smaller 20g.

 

All in all seems you have a good handle on what you are doing! Keep up the good work man!

 

I'll have to look into the blouch 20gxt, but honestly this is kind of a super budget build lol I'd rather save the money for the shortblock, machine shop, assembly, etc because I can replace the turbo later much easier.

 

Also on the harness merge you are definitely right. The problem is that I just registered the car last month, so haven't been through emissions and may have to wait until next year to do so. I am concerned about even getting through as is much less with a standalone or harness merge. The problem is I have a non EGR engine in an EGR chassis and the emissions place will do an OBD2 scan. I am concerned that they will see I'm running a different ecu and fail me or fail me for OBD readiness monitors if I go merge. The emanage ultimate also saves me a few hundred over the ecu swap and harness merge.

 

Also I have heard about ACL bearings issues before and remember an engine builder saying they preferred king as a result. I'll probably go with whoever builds the engine suggests since I'll be holding them accountable lol

 

Also I do remember the STi pan has better baffling, and will probably go that route, but it is tempting to just tap the pan I Ave with a step drill while it's off for shortblock build :/

 

Idk I feel like its hard not to be ricey with a plasti-dip job lol although I did order 2 gallons of glossier, so that'll help a little.

 

The 20g I have on the BRZ isnt a standard 20g and I have had trouble getting specs from the distributor because they don't want people going just anywhere to get turbos or upgrades unless it's through the distributor. Honestly with the BRZ's compression ratio I love the way it spools and honestly have trouble not beating on it so 300 is probably a good stopping point for me lol

 

I definitely appreciate your insights. It's so tough with this project because I really want to learn to do this stuff, but trail and error is expensive and time consuming, so I'm tempted to go cheaper on certain parts to move the timeline up.

I have been able to get most everything used thus far.

 

Also the cometic are supposed to give me an 8.5:1 CR allowing for decent boost with just a rebuild and better pistons and are supposedly designed to accommodate cooling passages for the DOHC hybrid. I wouldn't be opposed to upping the CR to 9.0:1, but I think it might be best to just find ots oversized pistons and spend the money on machining and assembly.

[Senseless1]

Touching up filler and priming over filler:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/TURDPAINT.jpg

 

getting everything one color with primer:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_104003505_HDR.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_104021903_HDR.jpg

 

endless taping super hot garage way too small

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_143946024_HDR.jpg

 

doing the best I can with what I have available (Not the right way to do this)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_143959566.jpg

 

First coat:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_161132352_HDR.jpg

definitely regretting the lack of space here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_175833024.jpg

 

Couple coats in. A little too windy to be doing this outside of a booth:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160611_185434898.jpg

 

Looks good from afar LMAO!:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160612_151342068.jpg

 

We have come a long way:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20150923_130116645_2.jpg

 

My biggest takeaway is that body work is an art, and I'll probably be paying for my next paint job lol

[wtdash]

The only neg. I've got on this build:

The emanage ultimate also saves me a few hundred over the ecu swap and harness merge.

 

Unless you can tune it or know a Tuner that's better then most, you'll probably spend that saved $$ on your 1st dyno day just trying to get it to idle.

 

Otherwise, get after it.

 

TD

[Senseless1]

I completely agree with you, and I look forward to overcoming that obstacle.

Tuning is one area of this that really fascinates me, and I fully intend to tune this myself.

 

At the end of the day a WRX swap and harness merge would be much cheaper. I want something a little more unique. To plan for failure I will have enough parts leftover for a spare engine using the high compression NA Frankenstein motor with the 25d shortblock and 22e SOHC heads.

 

I plan to approach this build in stages with the emanage ultimate being installed first, so I can get used to making changes and navigating the software in NA trim. I think the largest problem I'll face with tuning is trying to incorporate a boost control solenoid and scaling a larger MAF to really get power.

 

A standalone would be great, but I have yet to get an emissions notice, so I have to stick with this setup for now. I bought the emanage ultimate used, so I can conceivably sell it to recoup most of my costs if I change my mind.

 

Time will tell whether or not I should've done a wrx ecu swap or gone standalone lol

 

Right now I'm really leaning towards the 18g compressor and billet 18g wheel upgrade and just run wastegate pressure to dial in the tune, then add boost until the MAF maxes out and decide if a MAF swap or speed density setup would be better. Then I'll be limited by the injector size. I'm assuming the transmission will give up before I start to exceed the capabilities of the Emanage ultimate because this chassis is converted to the old style cable clutch with the same trans offered in the 1996 legacy outback (Same 4.11 final drive as the legacy GT).

 

If I need to seek out the help of a tuner, then that's fine. As easy as everything has been thus far, LOL, I fully expect all sorts of road blocks and unexpected problems to surface, so I plan to go forward in stages to only change 1 thing at a time with a shakedown period following.

 

If anyone knows any east coast tuners that are familiar with the Emanage Ultimate please feel free to post up suggestions. The closer to the DMV area the better.

[wtdash]

Attached* is a tune that I got from Morrocco88 on NASIOC when he had this on his '97 GT....awhile back.

 

Should be for an EJ20G (8:1 CR), STi '550s'/525cc yellow side-feeds, 18 PSi w/an MBC, on a VF39-sized turbo (I don't recall what he used). I ran it on my EJ22T+EJ25D heads (7.7:1 CR) w/a TD05-16G. It also had the Greddy MAP sensor added, which plugged into the EMU. I also used this on my '98 Forester which used the same ECU and stock EJ25D as the '97-'98 GT/OB.

 

Tangent: If you want more inspiration check out his other BUILD.

 

*RENAME the file's extension to .EM2 if used.

final_pump_18.csv

Edited July 6, 2016 by wtdash

[Senseless1]

Attached* is a tune that I got from Morrocco88 on NASIOC when he had this on his '97 GT....awhile back.

 

Should be for STi '550s'/525cc yellow side-feeds and 18 PSi w/an MBC on a VF39-sized turbo (I don't recall what he used). It also had the Greddy MAP sensor added, which plugged into the EMU. I also used this on my '98 Forester which used the same ECU and stock EJ25D as the '97-'98 GT/OB.

 

Tangent: If you want more inspiration check out his other BUILD.

 

*RENAME the file's extension to .EM2 if used.

 

That is awesome! Thank you for sharing this!

[Senseless1]

Stuck waiting until Friday to have the car back from the exhaust shop. I'll try and make a video Saturday to capture the sound if I can convince my Fiance to keep an eye on my camera so nobody steals it lol. I'm so paranoid about stuff like that and it has prevented me from filming much while working.

 

I did purchase an rhf55 rebuild kit from:

http://gpopshop.com/products-page/ihi-borg-warner-kits/rhf55-turbo-rebuild-kit-2/

 

I also went ahead and picked up the 18g compressor cover and billet wheel from:

http://shop.mambatek.com/SUBARU-WRX-IHI-RHF55-RHF5HB-Upgrade-18G-GTX-TurboI-Cover-Wheel-050-0087.htm

because they have a sale going.

 

I also grabbed a rebuild kit for my BRZ turbo with upgraded thrust bearing. The idea is to rebuild the rhf55 then take the BRZ off the road and rebuild that turbo. Hopefully will be able to set up an indoor workspace so I can safely film those without neighbors popping in to chat constantly.

[Senseless1]

Quick update:

I messed up and ordered the wrong coilovers. Pretty stupid and lost most of my saturday. I did get the OEM sti catback back from the fabrication shop and reinstalled my infernofab cat delete pipe.

First impressions:

Freaking STI catback has a small exhaust leak by the stock resonator...

too quiet with cats in place.

too loud and way too raspy without cats lol

honestly it sounds awful with the equal length exhaust manifold lol, but I cannot justify buying a single port uel, when I'll just be replacing it next spring.

I'll still get audio if anyone specifically wants to hear it.

I only had time to clean up the edges of the plasti dip job and peel the emblems.

I still have short shifter, tint, head unit, amplifier, and 4 speakers to install. The correct coilovers are being shipped as well. Honestly the car could really use a thorough cleaning. I still have to work on cleaning up plasti dip overspray in certain areas.

next weekend will give me more time to work. I am trying to film while I work, which really slows me down.

 

I did however convince the fiance to help me get some decorating done in the garage and hang the bicycle from the ceiling, so I can hopefully only crack my shin on the metal pedals of shin death once...

[Brighton96]

I don't know if you'd want it, but a complete 94 EJ22T just popped up on my local Craigslist for $500

[Senseless1]

Hey thanks for the heads up! I have pretty much exhausted my funds for the next few months though. I just found out the larger of my two clients is taking half a month off in July meaning that come September my income will be cut enough that I have just lost my spending money for July and August to make it through September without resorting to ramen.

Once October hits I'll be saving up for my lovely annual software license fee..

So I've pretty much had my fun for the year.

I did end up grabbing a used set of OEM STI rods with ARP rod bolts prior to receiving this news lol I'm really hoping that the off the shelf Wiseco ej22 pistons will work with the 75mm crank and shorter sti rods without any clearance issues.

That's a really good price for a longblock though. I know people are trying to push just the shortblocks for that much. I have enough to keep me busy for the rest of the year though anyway.

[Brighton96]

Hey thanks for the heads up! I have pretty much exhausted my funds for the next few months though. I just found out the larger of my two clients is taking half a month off in July meaning that come September my income will be cut enough that I have just lost my spending money for July and August to make it through September without resorting to ramen.

Once October hits I'll be saving up for my lovely annual software license fee..

So I've pretty much had my fun for the year.

I did end up grabbing a used set of OEM STI rods with ARP rod bolts prior to receiving this news lol I'm really hoping that the off the shelf Wiseco ej22 pistons will work with the 75mm crank and shorter sti rods without any clearance issues.

That's a really good price for a longblock though. I know people are trying to push just the shortblocks for that much. I have enough to keep me busy for the rest of the year though anyway.

 

It's no problem, I just saw it today and I'd buy it right now if I had the funds :/

[Senseless1]

Test pipe:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20151229_164507815.jpg

 

OEM STi 2.5" Catback:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160625_134138056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160625_134124533.jpg

 

18g compressor cover and billet wheel:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160623_215417829.jpg

 

Coilover test height:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160629_192957209_HDR.jpg

[TruongBradley]

Holy moly! Those man hours.

[Senseless1]

So I can't leave well enough alone lol

 

Inferno Fabrications UEL ordered, DIY grounding kit, drop in AFE panel filter ordered, MSD ignition coil on hand, waiting on correct plug wires for ej22e with new style female plug wires, better quality spark plugs ordered, piping ordered for hybrid intake, cruise control delete, Walboro 255 on hand, reinstalled EJ25d ecu, underhood fabric removed and spare tire removed (I have roadside assistance through insurance), and more complete heated seat wiring acquired:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/coilover%20height.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/ECU%20swap.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/CC%20delete_1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160727_170804780.jpg

 

DIY grounding kit and in process MSD ignition/NGK plug wires/NGK spark plugs:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/IMG_20160727_151229006_HDR.jpg

[Senseless1]

And just for fun some late night shenanigans I recently discovered:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Jonsblckhwk/forrestville.jpg

[Setnev]

Nice build thread. I love the look of the wagon without the roof rack. What I didn't love about mine was that when you shut the back hatch, the whole roof resonated and sounded like I slammed something on top of the car. Not mention it was loud during heavy rain storms. I ended up pulling the headliner and filling the gaps in the roof skin with spray foam. Problem solved.

 

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/QtlVz7t.jpg

 

After:

http://i.imgur.com/meR8HcA.jpg

Edited July 28, 2016 by Setnev

[Senseless1]

hell yeah on the no roof rack! I only have 2 screws holding my license plate in, so I have that awful sound to cover up the hatch slam, but the rain and car wash sure are unnervingly loud! That's a great idea.

[Setnev]

Its stupid easy to do too. You don't need a lot. If you pull the headliner down, you'll see the roof support braces that run across the width of the skin. Every other car I've seen has dampening foam or this black goo stuff in there to reduce the noise, but on the Legacy, nope, nada, nothing. Car washes sound like your roof is going to cave in when you go under those dryers and a heavy rain sounds like large hail hitting your roof, so I understand how unnerving it is. I haven't decided if I'm going to pull off the rack on my OBW yet due to the dual moon roofs, but I love the look.