Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

doublechaz

Mega Users
  • Posts

    1,646
  • Joined

Everything posted by doublechaz

  1. One step is a good solid attempt at start followed by a quick spark plug pull to see if it is wet with fuel. Long shot to call it through the net on so little info, but reminds me of the time my coil died. Simple and cheap fix if that is the problem, but do some testing. I used a scrap of wire and pulled a brake light bulb to verify the spark impulse at the ignitor together with the wet plugs and was confident to walk over and get a coil. I did have phone support to a friend who could call out pin numbers for the tests, pre internet on phones... After the swap it started right up. I'm not sure what or why that coil died, but from go to absolutely no spark in an instant. OTOH, the time my fuel pump died it sorta sputtered for a while before quitting, and then attempts to start would cough and sputter since plenty of spark, but only enough fuel to fire about 1 out of 8 compressions. But first we have to verify fuel and spark.
  2. Maybe I gave too much info. If your parts are generally in good shape I would just get the pair of OE rear springs. My rebuild was at 250,000 miles so I just preempted every "one day soon" problem by going with all new.
  3. On my second gen I got all new springs and struts and my saggy butt was like new. Springs do eventually wear out and sag some. I never thought about why Subaru Legacy sags at the rear rather than the front. I used OE dealer springs all around because that's all I could find without changing from a road car to a rock crawler. The damper part of the struts I went with KYB that are OE stiffness or perhaps a little stiffer. I also did poly bushings throughout at the same time, so it's hard to say if it is the struts or the bushings that made things tighter. Anyway, about 60K and several years later and still like new. I only do light off road with it anymore, hence the focus toward road behaviour.
  4. I believe there is a separate VSS for the speedo and for the computer. If the computer is getting bad speed info that will cause some problems. The IACV cleaning is where I would start. Did you find info on how to? Correctly cleaning a MAF never hurt anyone. Do it wrong and you'll be in a world of hurt, so be sure of that as well. They make a special cleaner just for that task for a reason.
  5. At that mileage it would be up in the air if the O2s are good. They could be fine, they could be used up, depends on how things happened to them during that time. I wouldn't feel comfortable saying "just replace them" without some test data. If you have a multimeter and can get connected to the sensors while it's running you can watch for the correct type of voltage swings to see if they are ok, or if they are stuck or lazy. I don't know about JDM lacking OBDII live data. That could be. Seems like they wouldn't build two kinda of computer flash for JAP and US markets, but there are big differences between the markets, so maybe they would do that.
  6. First two questions: Do you have any test equipment at all? How old are your oxygen sensors? If your oxygen sensors are 200,000 miles old there is a good chance that is your problem, but it would be best to take measurements and find out for sure what the problem really is and then fix just that. Your best bet for test gear would be anything that can plug in to your OBDII port and read live engine data. From there we can see if your data makes any sense, if it shows something out of normal range, any codes, etc.
  7. A frame lift or those parallel lifts are best. It can be a real deal to do this without those. If in doubt, don't do it.
  8. Perhaps a broken spring clip on the throwout. Sometimes it sits happy, others the missing spring clip lets it touch the fingers? Can you get the car lifted on frame blocks enough to have all four wheels off the ground? If so, you could try to get it to make the noise while you can climb around and check things. You might be able to see something through the clutch arm hole with the boot pulled off, and there is an inspection hole opposite of the clutch arm. Don't get crushed or rip any of your parts off working around moving parts.
  9. Seems like you are leaking the oil rather than burning it. Nearly a quart in 200 miles would make a huge cloud of smoke. Nearly a quart in 3 weeks would make a good size puddle on the ground. Looks like your oil sump is dry-ish and your trans sump is soaked. From way over here through the net I would guess that your rear crankshaft seal is done. You'll want to find a copy of the Factory Service Manual. Find the section about the rear main seal. First we just want to get the cover off the trans to inspect the torque converter bolts area and see if it is soaked inside there.
  10. When I did mine (1995) at home I pulled the engine out with my engine hoist and then pulled the trans out from above. I chose this method mainly because I was working on gravel and didn't have a transmission jack nor a pit or a lift, also because I was doing a 250,000 mile refresh so was going to do stuff to the engine anyway. If you have cement to work on and a safe way to lift the car about 2 feet I would get a trans jack and do just that from underneath. As to generally doing a big job, step 1 is have the Factory Service Manual and read the big job in question. Next steps that I do is hang a tag on the steering wheel that says "Engine Oil", or "Coolant" for things that I have drained from the car that will kill it if I start and drive without them. That's because I have the luxury of taking many days to do such a big job and in the excitement of getting to the end don't want to burn something up. I also, using the FSM and experience, make a paper sheet of steps each with two boxes next to it, one marked in red when I take apart and one marked in green when I put it back together, again because there can be so much time between the two. It can be a big help and a big confidence boost if you can have a more experienced friend help out with your first big job, but that doesn't always work out. It helps to have a supply of ziplock bags and paper where you can put iin a tag like "front trans mount to chassis" and such to organize your fasteners so you don't mix up lengths and thread pitches. Take a bunch of pictures with the phone, or even video where you point and narrate what you are doing and how things line up if you are worried about the complexity or passage of time making it hard to put it back together. Let me find one of my task lists from part way through a job... As you can see in the pic, I don't always get the steps in the correct order while I'm making the list and might end up putting them in numbered groups. In this pic disconnect battery is the very first step on red and the very last step on green. Then fluids, then engine accessories, etc... The dates are just for my OCD and chastising myself for taking so long.
  11. I believe that tool is for holding the motor after a lift rather than doing the lift. (But the first time I had my motor out we didn't have an engine hoist so two of us just reached in and pulled it out by hand. 2 out of 10 would not recommend, but my point is a Subaru engine is a lot lighter than many engines so figure out if you think that tool can do the lift and be careful.) If you lift with that, keep your body out of the bite until you are sure. Agree, if you pull it up from above it will be much more stable, if you push it up from below it may tip over.
  12. I did mine while the engine was out, so not much help there. I also don't remember just what it looked like. But, perhaps if you undo the sway bar end links you can rotate it down and reach in behind the cross member with a stack of extensions? If so, being vertical you should be able to fish the bolts back up in there as well. I would undo the rears this way first, then the fronts, and I would get the fronts started before fishing the rears up in.
  13. On first read I missed the Canada part. Dual ports should be easier, but that is from a U.S. perspective.
  14. Probably just a seized TOB, but no good way to be sure without taking it apart. If you had an endoscope type camera there is a small chance you could see something through the clutch arm hole or the mirror side inspection hole, but there is also the chance that you would get the tip of the camera into the moving parts and wreck it. If it's the bearing, the finger springs on the clutch will be ruined and you'll need the clutch as well as the TOB.
  15. Neither mine, nor my parts car have cruise so I can't help there. But sounds like you are making good headway.
  16. I saw reference to an FSM in some guy's vacation pics here. What does a scanner show about that sensor?
  17. Getting some serious training and trigger time as you describe above is your second best winning move. Carrying without training, not carrying and hoping for the best, etc are various degrees of losing move. I'm glad to see another doing what they can to make the world a better place. Thank you.
  18. Two main reasons people think the shoulder holster is "outdated". One, they dress like a McDonalds clerk. Two, they think that every defense situation will revolve around you having a bad guy pointing a gun at you without any warning leading up to the event and you will somehow be able to draw the pistol, present it, aim it, and deliver neutralizing fire in less than 0.25 seconds before the bad guy pulls his trigger as if you are some kind of John Wick ninja. The first is just modern styles. The second is a deadly fantasy about how gunfights take place. If you are in a situation where draw speed is the single most important factor between life and death for you, then you already lost the fight. Smooth quick draw and present is important, but you aren't "getting the drop" on them, you are preventing fumbles and delivering accurate first shots. You "get the drop" on them by monitoring their attention and making a move when you have the advantage. Compare the video of they guy robbing fast food in TX where the thug points his at every person sitting in the room one by one and when he faces away the guy with the CCW suddenly takes action having played it cool up to that point. Do not, however, do as that guy did and continue to fire after the threat is neutralized, and don't stand over the thug and shoot his motionless body again. Our guy ended that event very poorly, but he started it correctly. The most winning move is not to play. See the threat before deadly weapons come in to play and evacuate. The military has a survival onion poster. The skin of the onion is "Don't be there". Next is don't be seen. Don't be targeted. Don't be hit. Finally at the core, Don't be penetrated. I don't imagine you will be walking around with a vest on all the time, so that leaves mobility to not be hit, mobility to not be targeted, and mobility to not be there.
  19. I would start with the ground strap from the trans to the chassis and proceed on to the ground from the intake and block to chassis and finish up with the grounds for the cluster in the dash. I say that because of the jumping in time with the blinker and the video appeared to have the needle jumping in time with the engine rpm. Do you have the Factory Service Manual? If not, find it on here and download it. I think there are some pretty good referennces to it in the thread about someone's vacation pictures.
  20. That is suitable for my work.
  21. First question: was it a Subaru brand thermostat or a parts store unit? I've had thermal issues on parts store units. The OE unit runs me between 175 and 195 up a mountain in the summer. The parts store unit would run me 210 to 225 on level ground in full winter. Past that has it always had only pure distilled water and correct coolant? If it has ever had the colors mixed or if it has ever had any tap water then I would get an IR temperature gun and scan all over the radiator while it is up to temp and see if there is variation across the panel. This won't be fun to do as you might have to take out the fans and shroud to get a clear shot at it while avoiding cutting off your fingers. The A/C blocks it from the front. If that isn't the same temperature across the radiator side to side and up and down, then you may have blocked passages. You might be able to get a slight idea on this if you take off the radiator cap when it is cold and see any scale growing on anything down in there. All this assumes your radiator cap is working correctly, probably should have said that before. If you have signs of a clogged radiator you could try a back flush with the chemical stuff, but the right way to fix it would be a new radiator.
  22. To be fair, mine turned out not to need most of the bushings at 250k. I assumed based on other cars, so, you know. But I'm not sorry I did it as I did poly all around so it is a little sportier than OE. But there are lots of variables about bushing wear so nothing beats getting under there and inspecting. Have fun with your trip.
  23. If your alignment is bad enough to give different wheel speeds and burn up your center diff, then you will blow one or more tires pretty darn quick. Probably before it has time to hurt the center. Running a matched set of tires is correct. Which makes roadtrip 'just grab a used odd one' at the tire shop not an option. Then there is the thing where literally every single time I've ever been to a tire shop over the last 40 years they tell me, "Oh, that's a really rare tire size, we'll have to order that. It'll be about a week." Even though I can look in their lot and literally 50% of the cars in the lot have that same tire size on them. It's just a lie they tell so they don't have to admit that "just in time" inventory has down sides. It's hard to say through the internet if you are clear to take a road trip. How far, what speeds, etc. If you have uneven tire wear I would consider not doing it. If the tire wear is alright, then perhaps that specific repair item won't wreck your road trip. Sounds like it is time to check and replace bushings all around. Seems like the sheet metal warrants that level of repair if you can do a lot of it yourself. I did all of mine at 250K. AZ allows cars to live that long, unlike MI.
  24. The engine and trans wiring is a tough one to answer. At one point I doubted mine on my 95 ej22. I got one from the junkyard for a 96 or 97 ej22. The harness was a direct swap except that the connector for the water temp was totally different. The sensor was the same enough for me to depin the connector on each and put my shell on the donor harness. There were some bigger changes somewhere in the 98 or 99 range for the 2.2 and 2.5, but I'm not an expert on that. I don't think we even got ej20x in USDM in second gen cars. So that is where I get the idea that there may be big or little differences in the wiring and ECU between an ej206D and some other ej20x. The other option, if it is legal where you are and in budget would be to go standalone ECU. In that case the ECU maker may have a direct wire harness to match your donor motor, or they may be able to help with a harness merge. You'll definitely want to bring the rear diff over with the trans to make sure the final drive in the front and rear diff match. I don't know if your current axles will carry over, or if you will have to swap those. If you do have to swap those you may end up having to swap the spindles to get the outer end of those axles to play nice. I've also heard of taking apart axles and keeping the inner end from one set and the outer end from the other to get things to match up, but I don't expect that in a Subaru. Subaru do have a lot of common parts between options and even between models. It is a huge research project that I've never done before so I don't even have advice on how to do the research. All the engine and trans swap I've done on mine has been like for like.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use