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Why are you still waxing your car?


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I read the first post.....and I must say.... that that's just plain impressive!

 

What's more impressive though.... is that you're sharing this info with us.... AGAIN! I've been to detailers who charge an arm & a leg... and then when asked about tips & tricks simply reply with "Bring it back to us" or "trade secrets" so they can rake in more money!

 

Anthony..... j00 is the maing..... maing! Is it possible to ship a 12 pack of beer via FedEx ground? Cause I feel like buying you a 12 pack!

 

 

:) Hey, I'm just doing my job to help clean up the world one car at a time. Since I can't get around to detail all y'all's cars, I guess letting you in on the secrets of detailing is the next best thing. :) Of course I'd never turn down a 12 pack, but if you are interested in something really yummy then consider some ice cream. :lol: Thanks for the feedback though. It's nice to know that people are interested in learning.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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The important things with clear bras is that you don't use anything abrasive. you could clay it if you wanted to, but it is doubtful that it would make a whole lot of difference. You can use Klasse All in One on a clear bra because it is only chemically abrasive and not physically abrasive. Most sealants have a pre-wax paint cleaner product that could also be used on a clear bra. Then you just wax or seal them as you would do to your paint. A little extra UV protection couldn't hurt. I have a customer with a clear bra on their truck that I have been detailing for about the last 3 years. I've used 4* Ultimate Paint Protection on the clear bra with the rest of the truck 4 times a year and never had a problem or noticed any problems.

 

I have a silver LGT with clear bra on the hood/headlights/mirror housings (the road "salt" colorado uses is MURDER on paint jobs, mainly because they seem to mix in small pebbles which chip the hell out of an unprotected car) Anyway, I would like to seal the entire car before the winter arrives.

 

I am just wondering if they sell the 4star ultimate paint protection at places like Autozone/Pepboys etc or is it hard to find? I wanted to seal the car today or tomorrow and not wait for it to be shipped.

 

From what I've read and understood NXT would NOT be a good choice on clear bra surfaces due to it's small abrasive quality- is this correct?

 

I am basically more worried about protecting the paint for the winter then getting it as shiney as possible. Thanks for posting all this info- Much appreciated!

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The Four Star products are only sold online. Anyway, it won't matter on the clear bra if you seal it or not. It won't protect it from the salt. The sealant will protect from corrosion to the paint and UV rays and light swirls if you have enough on, but the clear bra won't really benefit from any of that. Your best bet is just to use 303 on it.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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The Four Star products are only sold online. Anyway, it won't matter on the clear bra if you seal it or not. It won't protect it from the salt. The sealant will protect from corrosion to the paint and UV rays and light swirls if you have enough on, but the clear bra won't really benefit from any of that. Your best bet is just to use 303 on it.

 

OC thanks for getting back to me so fast. I should have been more clear-sorry, I just want to protect the paint from the elements and not f-up the clear bra in the process. :icon_bigg I'll pickup some 303- Thanks again!

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So I finally got to use my new PC 7424 since it didn't rain this weekend. I used Klasse AIO, which I must say I was extremely impressed w/ the ease of use and the results I achieved from it. However, when using the Klasse Sealant I was somewhat disappointed in how hard it was to get off. What did I do wrong? Should I have hand applied it vs. a finishing pad?
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Big time. Klasse SG should not be applied by PC. That is one sealant that should only be applied by hand. Other sealants like Wolfgang can be applied by PC, but polymers are different than acrylics. Thin layers is the key. Thin thin thin thin thin thin thin layers. If you can see it after you wipe it on then you have used too much. Klasse SG bonds on contact similar to Super Glue on skin. You only need enough to make contact with the paint and the rest is just waste. So SG should be wiped on in straight lines as thin as possible. It isn't like any other wax or sealant.

 

The other trick to SG is that it needs to dry for about 45 minutes before you buff it off. That makes it easier to use. SG goes from wet to sticky to tacky to dry. If you don't wait the 45 minutes or so then it just streaks everywhere.

 

You didn't ruin anything by using the PC, but you did create a lot of extra work. Don't worry about it too much. There is a learning curve to SG. It usually takes 3 or 4 applications before you find the method that works best for you.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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http://www.eshine.ca sells it. You won't find Wolfgang on the shelf anywhere, but eshine is somewhere in your neck of the woods I believe. Tell Chris that Anthony sent you. :)

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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All right OC, I just ded SG for the first time ever, and I am pissed :lol:

Just kidding. I obviously got a little too much (just slightly) and I can't get all the fine lines to wipe off. I wiped it on in one direction with very little SG, and then waited 45 min to 1 hr, and then buffed off. In the right light though, you can see very, very fine straight lines. (not scratches) Thoughts?

 

Ted

:spin:
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The way I have found it easiest to remove SG is to use a two towel technique. Use one towel that is slightly damp and then follow that up with a dry towel in the other hand. The wet towel will bite a little more and make the SG easier to wipe off while the dry towel will immediately take care of the streaks. See how that works. :)

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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OC, I have been using Wolfgang Sealant, and then putting S100 on top, I like the look, but I also have a white car, so I can't really see a difference between the car after sealant, vs. the car after sealant and wax. Do you recommend to keep using this procedure? I do like having a sealant underneath, but if it is overkill...

thanks.

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It kind of is overkill. My last car was white and I stopped topping the Wolfgang with S100 after I realized that whatever I perceived to be better was probably just in my imagination. Some sealants look better with a wax topper, but WG looks best all by itself in my opinion.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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OCDetails, what are your thoughts on an orbital buffer/polisher?? i've got a RBP Legacy, like you(nice choice). definite swirl marks(not awful, though).

 

 

The only buffer/polisher that I can recomend that I know will remove your swirls while still being safe on your paint is the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336. That is the safest polisher you can buy that will actually do what you want it to do. No $35 AutoZone or WalMart special comes close. Those are just wasted money. If you want to remove swirls then you need at least a Porter Cable 7424 or 7336. They are basically the same machine. I've got another thread around here that tells you what the differences are. http://www.ocdetails.com is a good resource for you too if you are looking for tools.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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not to hijack this thread... butttttt :)

 

i am just curious as to how the famous OCdetails washes his car. drying is a no brainer (big blue= my love :)) but i always find myself causing swirls, whether i use cotton chenille or wool mitts. i'm sure its not the actual mits, or the material they are made up of, but the dirt that drags along with them. i ordered those bucket guards from PAC, should be in tomorow, but is it possible that i'm doing something wrong?

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I use the Viking Dual Purpose Wool Wash Mitt] for my washing. I love that mitt. The best part about it is that the inside of it is lined with fabric. That makes it more durable because your fingers aren't pushing out through the leather. I've found that this particular mitt lasts twice as long as other wash mitts. They are super durable. I get mine at my local grocery store. lol I know it sounds funny, but it's the closest place I can find this particular mitt. They sell Viking mitts at the auto part store down the street, but they don't have that fabric lining inside. I'm picky when it comes to my washing tools and this mitt has been my favorite for a long time.

 

This is my new wet dream. (no pun intended)

 

http://store1.yimg.com/I/premiumautocare_1870_2503776

 

Dwayne showed me that today and I haven't been able to think of anything else since. That is the ultimate wash bucket. It is definitely the next item on my list. I usually wait till I get up to about $300 before I order from Dwayne. I just put in an order like 6 weeks ago and I'm already back up to $200 worth of stuff I need. And to top it off he tells me he is getting a new shipment of the finest microfiber towels in the world in a couple weeks. Darhhgghhh!!! Oh well... It's the price you pay for being obsessive. ;) Luckily for me this hobby pays for itself. $300 is like two or three details. That kind of money is just waiting to be spent in my neigborhood. ;) I love this hobby...

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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haha u ain't kdding, the hobby doesn't pay for itself for me, but its a hobby, its wha it like doing, and having a lcean car makes me happy. so i like doing it. i bought two grit guards for two buckets i have, like i said before i will let everyone know how they work.
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If you want to remove swirls then you need at least a Porter Cable 7424 or 7336. They are basically the same machine. I've got another thread around here that tells you what the differences are. www.ocdetails.com is a good resource for you too if you are looking for tools.

 

ok, went down to lowe's and bought the 7336. also got the maguires gold class car wash(they didn't hve the other stuff you mentioned), the NXT protectant wax, microfiber wash mit, clay bar kit, hmmm.....let's see what else....can't think right now. tried it all on my wife's expedition, just in case i screwed up:icon_twis i'll be trying it out on the legacy sunday... it's unbelievably amazing what a clay bar can do, btw. the wifey didn't understand it, so i did the hood only for comparison sake to the fenders...when i was done, i had her feel the diff, and then she smacked me, and said, " Well then STUPID, why the hell didntcha do the rest of the damn truck with it!!!" ....i'll never win:icon_frow

 

my main q, in regards to the PC 7336...which speed should i be using it at, and should i be going in straight lines front to back or side to side?

ps,

thanks again for all your help

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