Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[BarManBean]

Probably between 8 ft/lb (same as water pump) and 15 ft/lb from google-fu. Can't find it in the FSM tho

[heiche]

I know it's a little late for this, but if anyone else is looking to remove those philips screws holding the baffle plates on, this tool makes pretty quick work out of them. Set it to reverse, place it in the screw, and whack the back of it with a hammer.

[BarManBean]

Yeah. I used an impact driver for those screws. Worked great.

[StkmltS]

I skipped the mysterious step #22 "water pipe" (pg.1779) for now and moved on to the oil and water pumps.

 

The oil pump is tq'd on to 4.7 ft/lbs with the oil seal, ultra grey, the black o-ring, two rubber gasket thingies, and ultra grey on three of the bolts.

 

The water pump is tq'd on to 8.9 ft/lbs (twice?) with ultra grey, a new gasket, the other rubber gasket thing, and the thermostat & new gasket.

 

They both went on fine but there's an odd gap between them that doesn't look correct. Both pumps are flat on the block but there's still a gap at the bottom. Thoughts?

Edited August 31, 2016 by StkmltS
pic uploaded to server

[StkmltS]

Finished for tonight.

Edited August 31, 2016 by StkmltS

[SBT]

Did you buy the replacement gasket? I bought the STI cast impeller pump and it didn't come with a new gasket for that area, so I used the one that came with the Gates TBK WP. The old gasket on the old pump was pretty "shrunk" by comparison.

[StkmltS]

Did you buy the replacement gasket? I bought the STI cast impeller pump and it didn't come with a new gasket for that area, so I used the one that came with the Gates TBK WP. The old gasket on the old pump was pretty "shrunk" by comparison.

Yes, it's new from the master gasket set. My water pump is the gates pump that I put on a few thousand miles ago.

[FJuan]

Yes, there should be a rubber strip there. SBT, correct the WP should come with that piece.

[StkmltS]

The rubber strip is in there. There's pressure (compression) on that strip on the top and closer to the block, just not at the bottom.

 

Apparently I clogged the toilet a few hours ago because I went in to wash my hands and saw my "evidence of productivity" still floating around. Woopsies. No pictures this time

Edited August 19, 2016 by StkmltS

[SBT]

BTW - I just rechecked three 4th Gen FSMs and one STI FSM and could not find the TQ amounts for the water pipe. Believe I used the same torque values that I used on the water pump since, IIRC, these are the same size bolts.

 

If I find anything, I'll post it up.

[StkmltS]

No torque? NO TORQUE!? AHHHH!

 

Because it uses two o-rings to seal it probably doesn't need a ton (tonne for birkhoff) of torque, so when the time comes I'll just use 8.9 fl/lbs (106.8 in/lbs) like a couple of you suggested.

[heiche]

The rubber strip is in there. There's pressure (compression) on that strip on the top and closer to the block, just not at the bottom.

 

Apparently I clogged the toilet a few hours ago because I went in to wash my hands and saw my "evidence of productivity" still floating around. Woopsies. No pictures this time

 

This documentation has gone on to a whole new level

[xt2005bonbon]

The rubber strip is in there. There's pressure (compression) on that strip on the top and closer to the block, just not at the bottom.

 

Apparently I clogged the toilet a few hours ago because I went in to wash my hands and saw my "evidence of productivity" still floating around. Woopsies. No pictures this time

 

:lol:

[FJuan]

The rubber strip is in there. There's pressure (compression) on that strip on the top and closer to the block, just not at the bottom.

 

 

You're correct after a closer review. You should be ok, I believe I had a similar gap.

[Max Capacity]

I'd didn't worry about the torque on small common nuts and bolts, just snug them up and a little more. Use your head, your not trying to break them off.

 

Even that water pipe on top of the block, the O-rings seal, you don't need a lot of torque.

[StkmltS]

Tonight's plan:

Sand rust off oil pan

Clean oil pan

Paint oil pan

Install oil baffle plate

Install oil pickup

Begin assembling heads

[xt2005bonbon]

When do you think you'll be done?

[StkmltS]

Super hero status: this weekend

Reality: 2 more weekends

Feels like: never

 

Sent from inner space.

[StkmltS]

The literal bottom end is coming together.

 

Why the silver oil pan? My 4 year old daughter helped me sand down the rusty spots (with a die grinder!) so I let her choose the color. The streaks on the front of the pan are actually ripples in the metal.

Edited August 31, 2016 by StkmltS
pics uploaded to server

[Max Capacity]

At some point in your build could you take pictures of #1 at TDC and the placement of the pistons in the other cylinders before you put the heads on.

 

If you'e read a few of the other threads, it might be nice to have real pictures.

[heiche]

Pan looks good in silver.

[SBT]

Progress! It's weird but the pan looks like it has a dent in it In the pre-painted picture, it looks like it's caved-in on the right side above the base and below the flange. Optical illusion.

 

Looks good in silver.

[FJuan]

I like your chalk drawings on the floor.

[StkmltS]

I like your chalk drawings on the floor.

I needed something to do while she was sanding the oil pan. Reminds me of the book "Bea & Mr. Jones" from Reading Rainbow. The dad and daughter switch places for a day and they each have a blast. It's a good book, but don't take my word for it...

[FJuan]