Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car

[Febreze Mee]

Congrats Team! Wish I could've been there to help out!

[Sgt.Gator]

Enduro Tech Recap. The air temps were foggy and a bit chilly in the morning, 55 degrees. They rose to 68 degrees in the afternoon. Full sun.

A few things we learned in the Enduro:

 

Pros:

Coolant temps are not an issue at all. The oem gauge stayed under halfway the entire time. This was confirmed on our AP data.

 

Oil Temps were almost too cold (more below). They stayed at 185 for a long time, eventually rising to 200-210 for the race. Even 6 hours in we were still at 205 or so.

 

Cons:

The rear diff has no cooler and needs one. It stayed at 240+ most of the race, hit a high of 250F. We'll be adding a pump and cooler over the winter.

 

The CV axle failed in the outer front passenger joint. This is a classic Subaru issue because of the nearby up & down pipes. The heat also affects the hub life. We have done extensive exhaust heat wrap on those pipes but it's not enough for endurance racing, especially at tracks like PIR in non chicane configuration, the WOT is a long stretch that blasts heat out the pipes. We are going to figure out a way to add an additional air intake ducted to the CV/Hub area on both front axles. Hopefully more cool air blowing in the area will solve this problem.

 

The DS scavenge is still not maintaining solid vacuum above 6,500 to 7,000 RPM. We have a one way valve on the crankcase vent that is normally closed under vacuum sending all the blow by to the DS tank to be vented. Again, due to the long straight, and shifting at 7K, the vacuum goes slightly positive, opening the valve and sending blow by gases to the catch can. If you keep doing this the catch can eventually overflows making a mess. However if we shift at 6K there is no problem at all. And we can occasionally shift at 7K if we are trying to pass a car and the brake zone for a corner is coming up. But routine shifting at 7K is the problem.

 

This also causes the oil temp to skyrocket. In the practice session we overflowed the catch can and hit 260F oil temp.

 

We think the scavenge pump is being overdriven and starts to cavitate at 7K. Unlike most traditional DS scavenge pumps that run at 1/2 crankspeed, ours runs at full crank speed+ off the A/C ring on the crank pulley. If that is the issue then adding more scavenge sections to the pump won't help. We'll do some testing this weekend at ORP to verify if this is what is happening.

 

The long term solution is a DS system like the Dailey Engineering and RCM systems, or a drive mandrel off the front of the crank like the former Cosworth system, or a mandrel attached to an ATI damped crank pulley which is used in many V8 applications. Or find a damped underdrive crank pulley, but neither ATI or Fluidamper makes one for the Subaru EJ. There is an underdrive crank pulley on the market but its not damped and we want to avoid that in a endurance race engine.

 

And we want to keep the STI and 818R as similar enginewise as possible. There's very little room between the front of the engine and the firewall due to the mid engine configuration.

 

However it's not a huge deal in the real world of endurance racing. If you want your engine to survive for 8 hours, or 25 hours, shifting at 6K is a very good idea anyway! And our EJ257 has a ton of TQ at 4K-4.5K so it's really not a problem.

[bigBADbenny]

EJ Fluidampr has 3 holes at the front of the damper for a smaller eg gilmer drive pulley. Can you bring the pump forward on its bracket to suit a front pulley?

[Sgt.Gator]

EJ Fluidampr has 3 holes at the front of the damper for a smaller eg gilmer drive pulley. Can you bring the pump forward on its bracket to suit a front pulley?

 

No one makes a Gilmer or HTD drive mandrel for Fluidamprs. The mandrel has to "register" in the hole in the front of the damper, but Fluidamprs are all unique sizes.

Fluidampr sent me a technical drawing which I forwarded to one of the dry sump manufactures and they could make a custom one...but I think not. There's a reason 99% of race cars use ATI. They were designed from the ground up to support drive mandrels.

So I'll probably just sell my Fluidamprs to folks who will never need a drive mandrel and switch to ATI.

 

My current adaptor plate won't work to bring it forward but ARE's kit does. In fact I could probably add a 4th scavenge stage too.

I'd have to remove the stock radiator fan on the driver side and use a low clearance Spal fan on the passenger side.

 

The other choice is the RCM / Dailey style that drives off the timing belt. I've always thought that was very questionable. Thousands of race cars run all kinds of stuff off crank mandrels without a problem. Only on the Subaru does anyone drive a dry sump off the timing belt. I have immense respect for Roger Clark, but it seems sketchy to me.

 

Here's how ARE does it:

 

[boxkita]

looks like a bit of slack in the belt. Can you get deepV pulleys to keep it from jumping?

[ehsnils]

Looks like a test mounting given the lack of cam sprockets and cam belt.

[Sgt.Gator]

looks like a bit of slack in the belt. Can you get deepV pulleys to keep it from jumping?

 

Looks like a test mounting given the lack of cam sprockets and cam belt.

Yeah, It's not a functioning engine.

 

From: https://www.drysump.com/index.php/technical-info/pump-mounting-instructions

 

BELT TENSION: The timing type drive belt, when all tightened down, should be "taught" not loose, but also not like a rubber band. There should be approximately 1/8" movement in up and down direction on the slack side of the belt. Some engine builders say the belt should be able to twist by hand, 90°. However, you choose to determine belt tension, keep in mind that at no time should be belt be allowed to "jump teeth." This will result in a worn out belt very quickly. While this drive method is virtually "bullet proof", a spare belt should always be carried with you.

 

There's a bunch of sizes in HTD belts, then you shim the pump out to get it right. You can actually pull the belt off and re-install by hand. The crank has a guide to keep it on but at the pump pulley it slides on and off.

Edited October 31, 2021 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

Our very own Shralp Produced, Directed, and Filmed this video. Thanks Shralp!

And thanks to Kip for coming down to help!

 

[Sgt.Gator]

I'm at PRI enjoying all the goodies and classes. I'm endeavoring to knock out reports on what I see. 3 will be video interviews, the rest random thoughts.

Here's the first two interviews up on my YouTube channel.

 

The new EBC Endurance Racing Pads:

 

The new Hawk Endurance racing Pads:

[shralp]

Hmmm interesting, wonder how these would be mainly from a reduced cost due to increased longevity standpoint for me. Since I can only run a 16.5mm pad in my Stoptech’s I’m blowing thru expensive pads way faster than I’d like. If I could get a full track season on a set that would be awesome!

[Sgt.Gator]

Hmmm interesting, wonder how these would be mainly from a reduced cost due to increased longevity standpoint for me. Since I can only run a 16.5mm pad in my Stoptech’s I’m blowing thru expensive pads way faster than I’d like. If I could get a full track season on a set that would be awesome!

 

The EBC pads are specifically flagged as race only, not for street driving. Since you drive to the track they won't work.

 

But the Hawks should work for you. And since they cost the same as their DTC60 I think it would be worth the switch.

 

I'm going to be trying both sets on the 818R and the STI, just haven't figured out what order. And Arcflash is certainly going to run the Hawks on their Lucky Dog BMW since Hawk is a LD sponsor and winners get free pads.

[Sgt.Gator]

PRI Post #4: Goodyear had their new DOT Radial Race Tire out front. A few cars at the recent SCCA Nationals were running them. I chatted with the tire compound engineer, he says the new tire is looking to be as fast as an A7 but the longevity of the R7. They have released several new sizes, including Wets.

 

 

[bigBADbenny]

I looked up gilmer pullies online and I think running a drive pulley on the Fluidampr for the scavenging stage could be possible with a low profile machined adapter.

 

Eg a 24 tooth drive pulley to 36 on the pump.

 

The adapters damper face might have a concentric chamfered “key” to centre it on the inner barrel of the Fluidampr, with the adapter flange being drilled for the three fixing holes on the face of the Fluidampr.

 

The outer face of the adapter might have a mounting boss aka stubby shaft extension with key way to mount the gilmer drive pulley.

 

The mount flange of the adapter might be only around 5mm thick, allowing for a low profile setup.

 

If you get one made, I’ll buy one too

[Sgt.Gator]

bigBADbenny,

I spent some time with the Fluidamper folks at PRI. I suggested they remake the Subaru EJ damper configured for a mandrel drive, and possibly as an overall undersized racing only damper. They make undersized racing dampers for the Toyota Their response was that the EJ damper is one of their oldest designs and they will consider it. Fluidamper makes a new 15% underdrive damper for the Toyota 2JZ.

 

In the meantime I think it's better to order up a setup ready to go using a ATI damper. So we'll replace the dampers on the STI and 818R and sell them in my used racing parts eBay store. They don't wear out so i'm sure I can get a decent $ for them. In fact I have a new, unused, EJ Series Fluidamper up for sale there now.

[bigBADbenny]

Awesome, the only downside I can see is that ATI is a service item vs Fluidampr being lifetime.

 

On a side note, do any of your cars run the cylinder 4 cooling mod?

[Sgt.Gator]

Awesome, the only downside I can see is that ATI is a service item vs Fluidampr being lifetime.

 

On a side note, do any of your cars run the cylinder 4 cooling mod?

 

Yep, both do.

[Sgt.Gator]

I used to track a C6 Z06 at ORP. If you had told me 5 years ago that my Z06 could rollover and entirely crush in on the passenger side I would not have believed it. The Z06 has a factory oem roll hoop builtin that they claim exceeds the industry standard roll over protection by several times.

 

Looking at this pic of a C7 Z06 you'd think he must have been going 120+ mph. Nope, it lost control a little over 70 mph, probably by the time it actually rolled it was probably about 65mph.

 

There was a passenger in there, not an instructor, a friend. Luckily he was wearing the 3 point oem belt so he could bend over to the inside and avoid being crushed. His helmet took a a pretty good hit from the roof coming down on him, it's in the linked YouTube video.

 

This is why I won't instruct in a car that has race seats, 4-5-or 6 pt harness, but no roll cage or at least a stout roll bar. Harness bars don't count. The dirt at ORP is very similar to Willow Springs. It's soft and if you go off track sideways the wheels dig in and flip you.

And I won't instruct in a standard built 818C or S. I'm too tall.

 

 

The Video:

[ehsnils]

Ouch!

[Sgt.Gator]

I have a couple of big updates, first the dry sump:

The STI was still having oil heating issues if we revved over 6K at the Cascade Enduro. So we decided to up the game on the dry sump scavenge, and since I'm keeping both the STI and the 818R as close as possible the same configuration the 818R got it first. These pics are the 818. If this works well the STI will get the same soon.

 

We did away with the pump being driven by a serp belt off the crank damper at full crank speed. We switched to the normal HTD drive off an ATI damper (which means I have 2 x Fluidamper's for sale). We think this will finally cure the oil temp issue at high RPMs.

 

Going with an HTD drive means moving the pump towards the firewall just enough to allow room for a 4th scavenge section to fit in front the intake manifold, so we did that too! Now we have 2 x scavenges to the pan, and 1 x scavenge to each valve cover.

We also added a Spintric.

 

So far on the dyno it's working great. We haven't been to a track test yet. Our first race of 2022 is coming up April 30th at Portland International. Retro Racing is *hopefully* going to be allowed across the border and they say they're bringing their 818R to the race, so I'm really looking forward to this. Even if they have 100+ more HP than mine!

Pics:

 

 

[ehsnils]

Nice to see some serious work.

 

 

In racing horsepower means a lot but not everything.

[Sgt.Gator]

Arcflash video of 818R work in progress:

Edited April 24, 2022 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

The 818R isn't ready for prime time. Plus the weather looks like very cool and rain on Saturday so I'm taking my all weather fighter, the STI. It's in the same config as the Cascade Enduro from October, except I'm testing the new Goodyear Eagle DOT Race tires. They are really wide! Wider than even a Hoosier R7 of the same "size" 275/35/18.

At the Cascade I ran the low boost map since it was an 8 hour race. This weekend I'll be in 3 x Qualifying rounds, 2 x Sprint races in the SPM class, and 1 x 1Hour Mini Enduro. I'll be running the Medium Boost map for the races and possibly the High Boost map in qualifying. We'll see.....As usual I am praying for rain!

Feel free to come out to the track, it's no cost for spectators. Hope to see some of ya'll there.

 

BTW, the new Hawk ER-1 endurance pads were recalled for a materials problem, and the new EBC SR-11 & SR-21 endurance pads seem to be unavailable still.

[boxkita]

how much life is the er-1 predicted to provide?

[Sgt.Gator]

how much life is the er-1 predicted to provide?

Depends on if you believe their marketing. Here's the NASA Speednews on it. Bear in mind the Hawk is a major sponsor of NASA, so not exactly unbiased.

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/brakes/how-hawk-performance-developed-the-er-1-endurance-brake-pad/

 

EBC is much more sure of themselves. They are claiming

"Wear life is huge and tests have shown 3-5 times longer life than competitor semi-metallic pads."

https://ebcbrakes.com/products/ebc-sintered-sr-series/

[boxkita]

EBC comment:

"The ability to be able to run one compound for both sprint and endurance is a fantastic trait and throughout testing, we have found that there is virtually no bed-in and that the pads are ready to go and up to temperature in under a lap. The initial bite is fantastic and very stable and predictable, and this performance does not drop off even after a race-length session. The wear rate is fantastic and after two days of testing, there is virtually no wear."

 

if true, this would be amazing.

 

Hawk has a similar claim. I used the dtc 70 & 60 pads for my track days with good results but still 2 days of wear was typical. The ER-1 should be much longer.

 

The e46 pictured in the hawk article ran for the first time at Nasa25 hour in 2016 on EBC. Did the full distance on the same pads. Guess Hawk made them a better deal.