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RPM CCFL DDE Walk-Through


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^ PM replied - but please clarify "where"?

 

I did mine on the kitchen table. :lol: Wifey was *not* happy about the commandeering of space..... :redface:

 

Anywhere that's low-dust, low-chance of unpredicted/secondary damage (i.e. cat jumping on, toddler swinging by, etc.). ;)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 year later...
tsi+wrx... Is there a way to wire the halos so they can be on at night along with my regular night time driving lights while I'm drivin around and also have the option of having the halos on with the driving lights off so all you would see is the ring, like with parking lights?
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To slave them to your driving lamps would be pretty straightforward - just choose to "fire" the relay via the driving-lamp circuit.

 

To also have the lamp on while the driving lamps are off would be a bit trickier. To be frank, I am somewhat at a loss as to how you would actuate *only* the halos other than via direct wiring/independent switching. :redface: Then again, I'm no whiz at electronics. :redface:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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well since this thread is revived, i have a question.

 

i've had my halos in for about two years and they just recently started to not work anymore. everytime i change the fuse, then turn on the halos, the fuse just pops a few seconds after the halos come on.

 

i don't know if my battery's just getting old and the voltage is getting a bit screwy on me..

 

they're tapped into the foglight power, which work fine. battery's at 96,000 miles now (a little over 4.5 years old).

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VERY IMPORTANT - Check the electrical lines leading to and from the inverters - particularly any place you've still got the spade/button-type connectors.

 

Clip them out and just direct hardwire (strip, braid [and solder, if you wish]), using shrink-wrap or other method of weatherproofing.

 

The connectors that the unit came with simply were not waterproof enough: after repeated exposure to alternately sub-freezing weather conditions and 150+ degree underhood temps, the rubber collars sealing the connectors tended to harden/crack, leading to moisture ingress and shorting.

 

Another area for water ingress was the physical casing of the inverters - if you bought from this Vendor, though, jxjjang, two years ago, those units sold at that time should have addressed that issue already. Nevertheless, it's still a possibility.

 

Best of luck.....

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 year later...

^ I've been out of the market so long, I honestly counldn't tell ya! :redface::(

 

Currently, though, I'd go with LED instead of CCFL. The latter is just too fragile. If I were to do another one of these projects, I'd make sure that the emitter is accessible relatively easily, without having to take the headlamp housing apart - and that it uses light pipe to bring the LED's output into the housing. Even today, most of the automotive-aftermarket LEDs still aren't all that "durable/reliable."

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 year later...

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