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RPM CCFL DDE Walk-Through


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yea def thanks i have plenty of silicone in all diference colors as well hmm maybe almond silicone lol prob just gonna go with clear

 

I find "Permatex Black ADHESIVE SILICONE" to be the weapon of choice on the headlights.... that stuff is great for this application, and looks fine as hell. You get it at any autoparts store, right next to all the other glue and crap like that. $5 a tube or so, and one tube SHOULD do both lights unless you go hog wild with it.

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^ Go with brother Drewski's recommendations, he's da-man when it comes to stuff like this. :)

 

I've had no condensation/leakage issues, and I didn't use any extra "stuff" during re-sealing. I've had my housings apart about three times, total.

 

However, I truly believe I've just gotten lucky - if you do anything to generate any amount of dust that may somehow get on the residual goo/glue/sealant that came from your undisturbed factory housings, you'll definitely want to put a little extra on there, just to be sure. This happened to my friend and fellow LGT-brother praedet when I helped him open his housing for his complete-optics HID retrofit - he saw condensation in ohe housing, and it was speculated that the plastic dust we generated from altering the headlamp housing could have caused the problem.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Guest subiecity

yea all done...i finished about 4 nights ago...me and a good feind of mine who works at AI designs.com...they hook up sum sick rides.... he came over took my lights wired everything great....we came back the next day after the glue had a 24 hr drying period.....we ran the wires from the lights right thru my firewall and also added sum power to light em up....and connected em to an on/off cockpit switch....they worked amazing all day and long into the night, i came home like 12 pm ish that night i made sure they were off cuz i am able to leave them on even after the car is off and went to bed.....and took sum great pics 2

the nxt day i got into my car i had to run to the bank ....so it was like 6 pm ish after dark...so i left my DDE's on i hit the switch to ON......and of course with my luck, they were dead....ive been fiddling with em for 2 days...and they are absoultely dead.....

any suggestions why they wont turn on anymore?? im guessing the transformers are shot already why i dont kno they worked great the night b4

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yea all done...i finished about 4 nights ago...me and a good feind of mine who works at AI designs.com...they hook up sum sick rides.... he came over took my lights wired everything great....we came back the next day after the glue had a 24 hr drying period.....we ran the wires from the lights right thru my firewall and also added sum power to light em up....and connected em to an on/off cockpit switch....they worked amazing all day and long into the night, i came home like 12 pm ish that night i made sure they were off cuz i am able to leave them on even after the car is off and went to bed.....and took sum great pics 2

the nxt day i got into my car i had to run to the bank ....so it was like 6 pm ish after dark...so i left my DDE's on i hit the switch to ON......and of course with my luck, they were dead....ive been fiddling with em for 2 days...and they are absoultely dead.....

any suggestions why they wont turn on anymore?? im guessing the transformers are shot already why i dont kno they worked great the night b4

 

 

:spin:

 

My head hurts now.

phoenix96

2006 Legacy GT Ltd · 2011 Outback 3.6R Ltd · 1992 SVX

2006 Outback 3.0R VDC · 2009 Forester 2.5X

2002 Outback VDC · 1996 Outback 2.5L · 1986 GL-10

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Check to see if there's any obvious wiring shorts or any connections that may have come loose - that would be my first area of attack.

 

After that, check to see if your transformer boxes are still working.

 

The CCFLs should not have burned-out in that time period - I'd actually thought that your battery might have drained.....

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Guest subiecity
^^^ i thought the same thing about the battery but car starts fine.....and the lights werked great so the wiring seems fine and last step is the goddam transformers woohoo thanks guys
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  • 1 year later...

this is a super noob question but...

 

i've done some wiring in the car so far.. independant fogs, HIDs, etc but i'm not understanding how to tap into the fog light power source. do i use the red wire with the flat metal tab and splice that into the fog light power? i dont really understand how to use the clamp that RPM sent me (the first clamp they sent was the vampire clamp, but the one they sent me this time was differnet..i lost my first clamp)

 

and the white wires coming from the transformer box... i only have to use one of those right? the other one would be for a dual-halo install, correct?

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  • 1 month later...
I have my DDE's hooked up to the marker lights but I want them to flash when I use the remote unlock also. Does anyone know what wire to tap into? I was thinking the signal light wire. If it is the signal wire, will there be problems with too much voltage when I use the signals when the DDE's are already on?
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IIRC, there were only three wires - ground, power for the markers, and power for the turn signals.

 

I never tried to see how the DDEs would handle the on/off cycles of the turn signal, so I honestly can't tell you what's going to happen if that's tapped (which would then have the DDEs also "blink" on/off when the signals are going), nor what would happen if power was tapped from BOTH the signal as well as marker wires....

 

Sorry.... :oops: this one's out of my shallow knowledge pool.... :(

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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So I did some messing around with wiring and found the signal light wire - it is the slightly larger wire going into the marker light. The wiring harness that came with my DDE kit had 2 trigger wires, so I hooked one to the marker wire and one to the signal light. It worked... sort of. The DDE's now flash with the markers when I use the remote lock/unlock/trunk release. The problem is that when my lights are in the "off" position (I have disabled DRL with HID's) and I use the signal (the left one which I tapped into), the DDE's also flash.

 

So... to solve this problem I went and got a Double Pole Single Throw relay and hooked it up like this:

 

relaytextA.gif.605b644d5d0c6693e3903d5b1f8793dc.gif

 

It's hard to explain, but basically there is a connection between 30 and 87a whenever there isn't a connection between 85 and 86. As soon as power is supplied to 85, the connection between 30 and 87a switches to 30 and 87.

 

Here is the wire that I tapped into for the trigger wire.

 

1861056321_DDEsflash003.thumb.jpg.46b550602cdb753aca21809747eb13a1.jpg

 

I had to unclip the relay tray in the fuse box to get at the wires underneath. When you look at the fuse box it is the wiring under the front right relay. It's not the rectangular fuse board, it's the odd-shaped relay board in front. Finding this wire was very much a guess and check method. Here is a map of my relay, which I chose to tuck in the fuse box to keep it dry.

 

1262743060_DDEsflashmap006.thumb.JPG.4feab06cef2d850cd727b2c531b17216.JPG

 

The point of all of this is to allow the DDE's to receive power from the signal wire while the car is off (so that the DDE's flash with the remote lock/unlock/trunk release), but then cut that circuit while the car is on so that the DDE's do not flash with the signals.

 

I hope this makes sense. It's 2:00 in the morning and I'm really tired, so logic is not my strong suite at this point. I know it sounds like alot of work, but it really only would have taken 30 minutes to 1 hour had I known what wire to use as a trigger.

 

Good Luck!

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So I did some messing around with wiring and...

 

Great work markbrotens!! So it's pretty obvious but to clairfy... After performing this MOD your halo rings will stay lit along with the parking lights, and also when you lock your car the halos will light along with the signal lights?

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^ SWEET!!!!!!

 

That's awesome, markbrotens! Thank you!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Thanks Guys! Yes peterjmc, that is exactly how how it works. The only point of the second relay was to disconnect the DDE's from the signal wire while the car is on, so that they don't also flash with the signals while you're driving.

 

Next project, LED strips in the clear reflector strip... stay tuned.

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  • 5 weeks later...

It's been a *looooooong* while since I did this...... :redface:

 

And the last couple of times someone asked me something *specific*, I haven't been able to answer properly, since it was so long ago. :redface:

 

rurouni_x, "dig deep."

 

This picture below:

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10459&d=1128227306

 

That's the "pass side marker splice" picture.

 

Here's what I'd said of that splice:

 

What you will need to do is to CAREFULLY slice open the tape that is currently sealing the end of the corrugated black-plast conduit that leads up to the harness plug for your passenger’s side side-marker/signal lamp. Once this is done, again carefully, withdraw the three wires that are resident within, and single-out the BLACK wire with BLUE STRIPE. This is the wire you’ll want to tap into for power, and the result will be that the halo will turn on whenever you engage (“turn on”) your side-marker/parking lights, but will NOT flash with your signal lamp (nor will they flash during lock/unlock cycles). In the picture cited, please ignore my many different taps – they were for an aborted lighting project, I am only trying to show the black/blue-stripe wire in this picture.

 

There are many different places to tap for this energizing switch, and what I’ve chosen is simply my personal preference.

 

Trace back your turn signal bulb, you'll see a black, corrugated plastic split-conduit that leads up to the harness plug for your passenger’s side side-marker/signal lamp. That's where those wires are.

 

You'll have to "dig" in there. :)

 

Good luck!

 

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ No problem, glad that helped! :)

 

You can get "vampire"-type or "T"-type clamps from your local automotive parts retailer, like Pep-Boys, AutoZone, or the like. Check by where the light-bulbs and other electrical accessories are located, and you'll find some wiring, fuses, and stuff like taps and crimp-on ends.

 

Be sure you take the time to tuck these wires well out of the way of any water/moisture ingress, after you tap them (the factory location is actually very weather-safe). Seal them nice and good with careful layers of electrical tape as a double-safe measure, too. You don't want them shorting out, and starting an electrical fire!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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ok work with me here, what exactly does tapping the wire mean do i have to cut it and strip it and connect the exposed ends to the relay?

 

 

Tapping into the wire is just that-- getting another wire to get in on the connection of another wire.

 

What to buy...

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=wire%20tap-in&origkw=wire%20tap-in&sr=1

 

Picture of them being used.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10459&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1131671509

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