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2016 OEM Footwell Interior Illumination Kit


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Here is another pic of the Opt 7 Kit.. The kit comes with 2 remotes, 16 Color Options 4 LED Strip and the Option to connect to Door Switch so when doors open lights switch to white and come on.. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/25/5e1da494ea102dd498b95dd52059587b.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

Where did you get the kit from?

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The first thing I did when I bought my car was to swap all my interior lights for LEDs back in February. Now every lamp in the car (interior and exterior) is LED and no issue to date.

 

Absolutely, no issues here either, was just stating what a Subaru Engineer said to me about it. He wasn't particularly warning or anything, just a "By the way..." kind of thing, but I wanted to mention it here, just as others were mentioning warranty work and so forth.

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[ame=http://www.amazon.com/4pc-Color-Smart-Multi-Color-Interior-Underdash/dp/B00OU5LOT2/ref=cm_cr_pr_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8]Amazon.com: 4pc - OPT7® Color-Smart LED Strip Kit - 16+ Multi-Color - Interior Underdash Lighting Kit: Automotive[/ame]
Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul😆
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Hey, did you install using the cigarette lighter plug, or hardwire in somewhere?

The kit has a fuse TSP so I connected it to the cigarette lighter circuit... I didn't hook up the door auxiliary wire because if I do car shows I didn't want the white lights to turn on..

 

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

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Mind sharing how you got to tap into the cigarette lighter circuit? This kit looks sweet!

Actually If you look on your inside fuse box there is a fuse marked for Cigarette... Also shows it in the owners manual.. I looked at the Fuse box under the hood and saw a Illumination Fuse but haven't really researched what it controls yet..

 

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Made the plunge and installed the kit in my '15. Everything works perfectly!

 

Took me about 2.5 hours because I was being extra careful and trying to follow the instructions to a T. Now that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do it in a half hour.

 

The result is pretty nice. The bulbs work perfectly with the dimmer. They are a bit dim but this works well given that you really don't need to see your feet most of the time. It seems that the driver's side is a bit dimmer thanks to the positioning (what you see in the picture is the light reflecting off my foot).

 

Is it worth the $120? Ehhhh... maybe not. While everything snapped in and the harness was of very high quality (soft touch wrapping and markings for cable ties). Still wish I had paid less than half of that amount, but oh well. :spin:

 

The kit:

http://i.imgur.com/FC8Sryy.jpg

 

The finish:

http://i.imgur.com/Su7CExQ.jpg

 

Install instructions found here. You can skip the parts involving a ratchet an torque wrench, it's easy enough without removing that one piece from the driver's side.

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Made the plunge and installed the kit in my '15. Everything works perfectly!

 

Took me about 2.5 hours because I was being extra careful and trying to follow the instructions to a T. Now that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do it in a half hour.

 

The result is pretty nice. The bulbs work perfectly with the dimmer. They are a bit dim but this works well given that you really don't need to see your feet most of the time. It seems that the driver's side is a bit dimmer thanks to the positioning (what you see in the picture is the light reflecting off my foot).

 

Is it worth the $120? Ehhhh... maybe not. While everything snapped in and the harness was of very high quality (soft touch wrapping and markings for cable ties). Still wish I had paid less than half of that amount, but oh well. :spin:

 

The kit:

http://i.imgur.com/FC8Sryy.jpg

 

The finish:

http://i.imgur.com/Su7CExQ.jpg

 

Install instructions found here. You can skip the parts involving a ratchet an torque wrench, it's easy enough without removing that one piece from the driver's side.

Do you think you really need to take as many panels off as it tells you to or do you think you can get away with just taking off the hazard swich and snaking the cables down maybe with some coathanger wire?

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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Do you think you really need to take as many panels off as it tells you to or do you think you can get away with just taking off the hazard swich and snaking the cables down maybe with some coathanger wire?

 

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

All you have to remove is the center vent assembly (to access the hazard switch) and the 2 under dash panels. Don't even need a hanger to get the wire down it's pretty much a straight shot. I just shoved it down next to the vent and it fell perfectly.

 

Here's pics from my cheapskate diy install:

http://i.imgur.com/HxqusHO.jpg?1

 

http://i.imgur.com/HWNzPs7.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/GixZUsx.jpg

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Do you think you really need to take as many panels off as it tells you to or do you think you can get away with just taking off the hazard swich and snaking the cables down maybe with some coathanger wire?

 

You can just drop the cables, but by taking off the panels, you can tie down the cables so they won't be lose and rattle.

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You can just drop the cables, but by taking off the panels, you can tie down the cables so they won't be lose and rattle.

 

That's where you get someone with small hands and arms that can reach in and secure the wires! :lol::spin:

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You can just drop the cables, but by taking off the panels, you can tie down the cables so they won't be lose and rattle.

 

I tied them up w/o pulling dash panels just laid on my back and looked up under the dash. Plenty of room to reach in.

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  • 1 year later...

I decided to add some LED footwell lighting using a non-OEM approach, using two modules from Oznium.com tapped into the approach lighting using the map lights.

 

https://www.oznium.com/super-bright-12v-led-module

 

Inspired by this dude did the same with his WRX:

 

 

I didn't want footwell lights on all the time, I like the idea of them on when get in, then fading to black...

 

Also, I found this: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/foot-well-lights-door-opening-373849/ and

 

The dimming signal comes from a switched ground, via the BIU/BCM...And the forester forum highly recommends putting in LED map light bulbs before tapping into this circuit, because that control device is expensive and could be voltage sensitive.

 

So I ordered these 6 led bulbs to install (SMF6 cool white):

 

https://www.diodedynamics.com/store/2003-2009-subaru-legacy-map-light-leds

 

These Diode Dynamics bulbs were a bit longer than the OEM, so I would recommend you buy a different vendor for these...they are however brighter than stock, and daylight instead of yellow. They do fade just like the OEM bulbs do. You can see the back of the bulbs in the picture below.

 

The big white connector with the most wires supplies power to the map lights (among other things), I needed to unplug all the connectors to remove that entire unit to get the new map light bulbs in place (I even pushed out the light covers because it seemed impossible to do them from above). So if you need to remove the overhead map light console to do the bulbs that is the one connector to reconnect to power the map lights, then do the rest.

 

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s587/Zeeper1/IMG_1311_zpsmxbblbdl.jpg

 

This picture shows where I attached wires to the map lights (picture is before cleaning it up, I used crimped on connectors and slid them under the metal rails on the top/ground wire and side/power wire of the unit.

 

Similar to WRX dude, except mine will turn on if I turn on the driver side map light (I wanted my side to control it, vs passenger map light), and comes on as an approach light with the doors (if the map lights are set to door, and dims exactly as it should now just like the map lights).

 

Red is power wire, and Black wire is to the switched ground. Wires were run across the top of the windshield and down the passenger door pillar, very easy to tuck away invisibly.

 

I did blow a mini-fuse twice (the one that controls the dome lights, etc, is in the drivers side interior fuse box, labelled Backup, 10a), and of course, the local auto parts store has almost no low profile mini fuses, just one box with two 10a fuses...so I replaced the fuse and the spare from under the hood, and have it all working now. It's almost like Subaru said, "what is the hardest to find fuses, let's use those!" These low profile mini fuses are cheap on ebay should you want a small supply. Now you know where to wire them just be careful so you don't blow that fuse, or pull the fuse first, connect the wires, replace it and test to prevent fuse replacement (just keep in mind the map light LED's are unidirectional, so if backwards they won't light up).

 

In any case, if you want ~$40 LED footwell lights/LED map lights (including two LED modules from Oznium $24, and two 6-LED map light bulbs $16 from Diode Dynamics, you will also need wire and connectors here and there), that come on with the door, then dim, then fade to black before you drive, and can also be switched on with a map light anytime, this is how you do it.

 

I chose red led modules for the footwell lighting to match the interior dash lighting, but they also sell blue. I think this was a bit of a PITA, but now I know what to do it wouldn't take long to duplicate the process, probably easier than pulling the dash apart for the factory OEM kit wiring, and I like the function of this better (not lit all the time at night when driving, and these are switchable to turn on whenever I want them on).

 

these footwell LED modules are brighter than the stock OEM kit, the Oznium modules are 6 LED's, but you can use any LED you want in the footwells, to be safe if you are tapping the map lights for footwell lighting I would put in LED map light bulbs to keep the current draw low.

 

PS: Shout out to Oznium.com, American company, great communication, and hilarious owner:

 

https://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15419

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  • 4 weeks later...
OEM kit is always on just like any other light that is on at night, since it is powered via the same circuit for your dash lighting.

 

OEM will be dimmer than the approach light I did (since the module I used has more LED's), if that makes a difference. I like mine off while driving, and switchable, which works well off the dome light feed.

 

Thanks for your reply, I deleted my post after reading through your previous post and finding my answer.

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