Nybz Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I leave my car's lights on auto. When I unlock my car or open the door the footwell lights turn on, though if I leave the door open too long it shuts off. I'm not sure if it does that during the day, my lights are only 5w so would be too dim to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_l_s Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 ^^^only when the headlights kick on so if the lights are on auto it's only at night Lighting Mods: $10 Footwell Illumination | Tail as Turn | Fog as DRL Diode Dynamics C-Lights | RX350 Bi-Xenon Retrofit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3.0R-AUS Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 You could tie into the dome lighting so it'd kick on when you open the door or unlock the car. That's what I'd like to do. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a fuse in the fuse box under the dash that is only for the dome lighting. I think it would be too difficult to tap into the wiring in the headlining and then thread the new wire down a pillar to the footwell... does anyone have any other ideas about how I could get this to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) Yes, I have asked many of times for the Dome wiring diagrams which run down the passenger side so the footwell lights power can be tapped. Then they would work like my other vehicles that I have/had owned. The KJ footwells works in this matter. Edited September 22, 2015 by Yoda_One Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 @Paradox is the color differentiation is the same at the wiring colors in the vehicle? I believe, but not positive the wiring run in the B Pillar on the passenger side. Before I pull the cover off I really want to be on the right track. Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3.0R-AUS Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Thanks for your help Paradox. That diagram will take some looking over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 @Paradox is the color differentiation is the same at the wiring colors in the vehicle? I believe, but not positive the wiring run in the B Pillar on the passenger side. Before I pull the cover off I really want to be on the right track. I'm not sure, I haven't checked yet. I do know that when I installed the footwell lighting, the diagram color was correct to what was under the center console, if that's any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thombob Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I've come to ask for help! This is my second time around going about this project. The first time I had used vinyl crimp connectors and electrical tape (I was too eager to begin the project and too lazy to search for all the proper materials), which is why my second time around I made sure I did everything properly. This is my first time working with wire. I watched several YouTube videos on how to splice a wire with a heat shrink connector. I also made sure I obtained all the proper tools I needed. However, I am still not getting the footwell lights to come on. I'm certain the wire is connected and touching the hazard connector wire, as I've tried moving it around and retrying it several times, but I am still not getting it to work :O I purchased the ready to go sockets. The pigtail was not long enough to reach the ground so I extended it. Was I not supposed to?  I'd appreciate any advice. I'm dying to get it to work! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/02/287b25b8a085ccab2e402224682cf7f1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DA_MAXX Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Have you tried flipping the bulb around? LEDs are polarity sensitive. Extending the wires shouldn't be an issue. do you have a mulitmeter to measure the voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citadel Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Try reversing the bulb in the socket. Leds are positive/negative specific. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thombob Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I've switched the bulbs 180 degrees on both the left and the right. I even tried another set of bulbs. Still no luck! :/Â @DA_MAXX I do not have a multimeter. I'm wondering if the sockets are not working? I'm pretty stumped lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thombob Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I just finished trying to reconnect the wire to the hazard cable several more times. Nothing. I decided that for the hell of it I would try to connect the wire to each of the other 3 (wires)ports and still nothing! I am really bummed out about not getting this to work. I am really curious as to where I am going wrong. My Legacy being a 2016 shouldn't at all be a problem, right? At this point I am considering im2cool's kit just for the DIY video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_m Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Is your setup properly grounded? Do you have a multi-meter or test light to check your connection? I'd trace it back to the hazard switch harness connector. The power is there ... something is up with your wiring. Extending the wire shouldn't be an issue ... I jumped my cup holder lighting off my passenger side foot well wire with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thombob Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I left everything over night and attempted to try again this morning. I ensured that the setup was properly grounded on both sides, and tried once more. Still nothing.  Then all of a sudden I was struck by bad luck. FML. I unclipped the clip from the hazard connect and to my $%&*!$# luck, it fell down... To add onto that, the pair of glasses I currently wear has a loose right lens. As I stared into the center console moving my head up/down, I slightly bumped the windshield and my right lens popped out sliding down into that @$%! hole! I am over this... for now. What should I do to go about removing my lens and clip from the center console? I have no idea where they fell down, and I expect that once I start driving I will hear an occasional rattle here and there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DA_MAXX Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Sorry to hear you're having so much issues. Since you don't have a multimeter, did you ask your friends\neighbor?. I would get a 12V light probe from the auto parts store. Not as good as a meter, but should work for what your doing. One to check, on the bulbs, that the wire is making contact with the metal inside the housing. You can move the wires on the bulb further out. Good luck with getting the pieces out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Without a multimeter solving this issue is useless. You need the right tools whenever doing a mod...especially an electrical one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_m Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Sorry about the bad luck, dude. I thought I was the only one that this sh!t happened to. There are instructions here on removing the center console. Rayms posted them in a .pdf a while back. You need to search a bit ... but it's there. I know that the two front pieces on the center bin pop right off, you can remove the rubber mat from the center bin and get to the screws. I had the front half the console out to the frame when I did my cup holder lights, so that might get you enough space to find your stuff. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_l_s Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Sorry this project wasn't going over too well for you :/ when I was installing my dashcam I dropped a screw and it just so happened to fall down into the gas tank release...was a nightmare to get it out so I feel your frustration:spin:Â As others have said, some method of checking whether you're getting power is crucial. Even though I do a fair amount of electrical projects all I have is a 12v test light, though I keep telling myself one of these days I'll get a multimeter. Â Anyway, if you decide to continue your work at some point pick up a test light as it'll help you track down where the problem lies. Start with the hazard connector wire tap and make sure there's power there, if yes then work your way down the line until you find the problem. Eventually you should come across a point where before it there's power and after it there's nothing. Should be pretty easy to figure out just takes some troubleshooting. Lighting Mods: $10 Footwell Illumination | Tail as Turn | Fog as DRL Diode Dynamics C-Lights | RX350 Bi-Xenon Retrofit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nybz Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Is your car in on/acc? could be you're wired correctly but the light times off. I know when I open my doors, the lights turn on for maybe 30sec to 1 min if I dont start the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_l_s Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Just FYI, I can no longer recommend the Cutequeen led bulbs. One of mine started flickering slightly but I assumed it was just a loose connection and didn't think anything of it. Then it started turning on and off during 2 hour drive with family. My dad went to pull it out and it was smoking hot, smelled burned (I have a "lens" over it so couldn't smell it until it was removed, I haven't been driving around for weeks ignoring electrical fire smells;)), and is all charred/brown looking. See for yourself: http://i.imgur.com/GuMvdMe.jpg?1Â Although probably just this one suffers from a short, I pulled my driver's side one out too just for safe measures. Sent that picture to the seller and they refunded my money even though it's way outside the normal return/refund period, so I was happy about that. See the updated parts list for a link to superbrightleds, a more reputable source imo. I'll be buying some from them here shortly as I'm missing my lights!! Lighting Mods: $10 Footwell Illumination | Tail as Turn | Fog as DRL Diode Dynamics C-Lights | RX350 Bi-Xenon Retrofit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citadel Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2357&pictureid=10875 andrew_l_s I switched to this bulb because of the lower light output (wanted) and the fact that it is recessed and does not need a cover to protect it. Once installed it is almost flush with the panel. As we experiment with this new tech of leds I'm sure we will come across quality control problems.What is interesting from your photo is that the contacts look to be burned. Could the problem be the socket? Not making a good contact, causing it to arch could be the problem. I would check it out. Again I by no means am an expert and would look for any other knowledgable input. Edited October 7, 2015 by citadel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirBorne1Cav Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2357&pictureid=10875 andrew_l_s I switched to this bulb because of the lower light output (wanted) and the fact that it is recessed and does not need a cover to protect it. Once installed it is almost flush with the panel. As we experiment with this new tech of leds I'm sure we will come across quality control problems.What is interesting from your photo is that the contacts look to be burned. Could the problem be the socket? Not making a good contact, causing it to arch could be the problem. I would check it out. Again I by no means am an expert and would look for any other knowledgable input. Do you have a link for this bulb? I recently bought some 1SMD blue LED's off Amazon... looks like the same ones. I also wanted a dimmer LED. The 5SMD in my opinion is a little to bright for everyday driving.  ALSO - I've had the same issue as Andrew had with the Cutequeen 5SMD Blue LED's !!!! Had one of them burn out in just 2 days! I CANNOT recommend these LED's. The purchase I made from Amazon included 4 LED's, so I replaced the malfunctioning LED with another and it's been working out okay. Still... I've only had them in a few weeks, I'm not expecting them to hold up.  - 1SMD LED (haven't installed yet) - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXAKBGS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00]S&D Big Sale!!!5PCS T10 1 SMD 5050 Blue License Plate Interior 194 W5W LED Car Light Bulb Lamp - - Amazon.com[/ame] - 5SMD LED installed, see post #67 for pictures. - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPIZ36?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00]Amazon.com: Cutequeen LED Car Lights Bulb Blue T10 5050 5-SMD 194 168 (pack of 4): Automotive[/ame] Edited October 9, 2015 by AirBorne1Cav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citadel Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) Do you have a link for this bulb? I recently bought some 1SMD blue LED's off Amazon... looks like the same ones. I also wanted a dimmer LED. The 5SMD in my opinion is a little to bright for everyday driving.  ALSO - I've had the same issue as Andrew had with the Cutequeen 5SMD Blue LED's !!!! Had one of them burn out in just 2 days! I CANNOT recommend these LED's. The purchase I made from Amazon included 4 LED's, so I replaced the malfunctioning LED with another and it's been working out okay. Still... I've only had them in a few weeks, I'm not expecting them to hold up.  - 1SMD LED (haven't installed yet) - S&D Big Sale!!!5PCS T10 1 SMD 5050 Blue License Plate Interior 194 W5W LED Car Light Bulb Lamp - - Amazon.com - 5SMD LED installed, see post #67 for pictures. - Amazon.com: Cutequeen LED Car Lights Bulb Blue T10 5050 5-SMD 194 168 (pack of 4): Automotive This is the eBay website:http://www.ebay.com/itm/301664643255?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT They seem to be working fine, but for the price the ones that andrewsl_s found seem to be a good source. Lets put it this way, at the low price all of these come in at it would behove us to find the highest quality. I must say that since seeing the bulb failure I will keep an eye on mine. So far no indication of heat. 1smd vs. 5smd involves a lot more wiring and soldering. Edited October 9, 2015 by citadel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giangtvu85 Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 i have done mine by your way , but i have 2 more led strips in the back also . So i have found another way: 1- LED blue toggle switch 2- 2 blue led light strips from Ijdmtoy.com or Lexenauto.com 3- wires and fuse So i attached the hot wire to the cigarette lighter from the center console or the one in the control center. I do that way so i can have all the light on or off whenever i wanted though.:):) But thanks you for the idea of your. Hit me up if anyone have question ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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