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Matt166 YNASB Thread


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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Sometimes you can remove the clips holding the o2 sensor wire harness to the engine/transmission and gain enough length.

 

Do this. I removed the wire's attachment point from my crossmember, and there was just enough slack that it fits perfect and still looks like it was meant to be there. I wouldn't bother with an extension.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Pretty sure its top to bottom and vice versa, there is one thread in particular on here that figured it out.

 

Getting pretty close now, trying to align the new DP, turbo, and IC. Then its break in time.

 

Just checked my 2005, they have never been off, you are correct top to bottom etc.

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Do this. I removed the wire's attachment point from my crossmember, and there was just enough slack that it fits perfect and still looks like it was meant to be there. I wouldn't bother with an extension.

 

Will give it a try, I need about 6 inches and I dont think I will get it. Have the parts on order anyway, maybe ill just be returning them if I can get it to work.

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Just checked my 2005, they have never been off, you are correct to to bottom etc.

 

Thanks for checking.

 

Sent my initial LV off to Cryo, just need to figure the o2 sensor wire and some new bolts for the dp-catback joint then I am all set. Motor/turbo is primed with oil and coolant, ready to go.

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Just use any 3/8 bolts washers and nuts from the hardware store. Use anti-seize on the threads.

 

I have 10mm bolts at my DP to mid pipe. About 1.5" long

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Shitty day.

 

Spent the first half fixing a few little problems. Fixed a bottom rad hose leak, hooked up the o2 sensor by moving the wiring around, tidied up a little and was pretty excited to load the break in map that I recieved this morning.

 

Did everything as I should, did a successful test write to ecu which came back fine on the second attempt. Started the flash of my break in map, error code. Tried again, error. Tried to go back to my stock map, no good.

 

Now the car is stuck in ECU communication mode er-hc no matter what status the green plugs are.

 

Looking at probably a bricked ecu, waiting to hear back from the tuner on next steps. If I don't push it into the lake in the meantime I guess i'll be scouring ebay for a new module!

 

My guess is my either my usb cord or the tactrix connector has a loose connection.

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Sorry to hear that, it sucks.

 

Have you tried to reset the ECU, pull the battery cable for 15 minutes.

 

I did, even pushed the brakes too.

 

Tactrix have been pretty awesome, they replied within the hour and want me to send them my ecu and the cable. Hopefully they can do something with it.

 

Will keep you updated

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Its aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiivvvvveeeeeeee.

 

Got the ecu back in today, everything was pretty much ready to go as I had the extra time while it was with tactrix.

 

Did 3 runs of 15 second turnovers with fuel fuse out. Put the fuse back in for the 4th and she started right up!

 

Let her sit for 30 mins in the garage on idle, no leaks as of now, fans kick on as expected.

 

Changed the oil, half more of the bottle of engine break in fluid then took her for a gentle ride. Forgot how much I love this car - not sure if im sold on the borla right now though as its a little loud, call me a grandad, sounds fricken awesome just not sure if I want the drone on road trips.

 

Saw a little knock at low rpm, sometimes on 0 throttle, one at 6psi boost. Will do a 15 minute cruise for Dave tomorrow and send him the logs/lv and see what he thinks. Pretty new to the game of reading numbers, should I be expecting some knock on a new engine? Have a low boost map on right now and havent gone over 1/3 throttle or 3k rpm.

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Gave the old girl a good clean today. Dealing with a couple of detail issues at the minute, first is a musty mouse smell, found two nests in the car - one in the cabin air filter and one under the rear seat. Have used shampoo etc and im hoping having the car out of storage and driving it around will help.

 

Second is the damn rock blocker, some of it is cracked and looks nasty. Any good ideas how to get this off? I have been pressure washing the film and then cleaning the glue using brake cleaner applied to a cloth. Taking forever and there is lots of it.

 

Here she is right now, really liking the new springs right now - bear in mind the car only has 5 miles on new struts, thinking they will probably drop half an inch in the next few miles - especially when I load up with my roofbox and enduro bike!

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20150816_155948.jpg.cf7b8f746fbff9e4a43b9cd849cf008a.jpg

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Park the car in the sun with the windows down a bit, it will air out in a short time.

 

I tend to leave the windows down a inch or two all day at work, open on the weekends at open.

 

I hate smells

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Started the flash of my break in map, error code. Tried again, error. Tried to go back to my stock map, no good.

 

Now the car is stuck in ECU communication mode er-hc no matter

 

 

In case this happens again, please note you should NOT shut the ignition off during an aborted write operation. This almost guarantees a bricked ECU. Leave the ignition on. Try closing and relaunching Ecuflash. Try restarting Windoze. Reinstall Ecuflash. Keep trying until the car's battery dies, but do not turn the ignition off until the operation concludes with a success message!

 

 

Sent from some electronic device.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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In case this happens again, please note you should NOT shut the ignition off during an aborted write operation. This almost guarantees a bricked ECU. Leave the ignition on. Try closing and relaunching Ecuflash. Try restarting Windoze. Reinstall Ecuflash. Keep trying until the car's battery dies, but do not turn the ignition off until the operation concludes with a success message!

 

 

Sent from some electronic device.

 

So I gather, I was pretty reluctant to turn it off, tried a bunch of different things but in the heat of the moment, I screwed it up.

 

Next time i'll have a battery charger on standby and wont be turning that sucker off whatever happens.

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Yeah, very few people do this twice ;)
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Figured I would put some costs up as most people look for it on build threads. Format is a little funky as I cut and pasted from excel.

 

Item Price

Invoice - Engine $1,975.00

Clutch $727.00

BTSSM - Bluetooth $99.00

BTSSM - App $15.00

Fred Beans - Various parts $105.15

HID's TRS - Morimoto $160.11

Various interior LED's $41.00

Turbo $700.00

Crane and engine stands $100.00

Torx 50 $10.00

Cobb Downpipe and Short Shifter $657.00

Rallitek overload rear springs $220.00

4xKYB struts 1xTYC13091 $366.33

EJ257 Shipping $284.08

Tires $600.00

Tune $350.00

Final Engine invoice inc ship $1,600.00

Tactrix Cable $178.00

Oil and plugs $150.00

Borla CBE $400.00

Various - Dealer $200

 

 

Im sure there is a couple of items that I left off. I could have done things much cheaper but I had the time and the cash to do things the way I wanted. Hoping this car will last me for a few years with some good maintenance.

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Post like these make me feel like I didn't spend enough.

 

Ha, I wish I had spent less, definitely went a little over budget but whatever.

 

Dave had a look at my breaking cruise log, says I may have a boost leak post turbo but pre TB. Found a can to put in the intake and blew into the bov small hose - couldnt find any leaks with a stethascope (garden hose) or soapy fluid. The pressure held in the intake for as long as I held my thumb on the line, which probably means its only leaking under more pressure.

 

Decided to pull off the tmic anyway and check connections, the BOV to TMIC connection was a little dirty and the rubber gasket had folded a little, cleaned and reinstalled. I went on a 10 mile drive, my fuel learning looked way better (rarely rose above 0.1 percent) but im not sure if this is because the IAM is at .75 from resetting the ECU.

 

I had planned on another longer cruise to test it out, but the fricken inside drivers cv boot is toast, flinging grease everywhere. Ordered the inner and outer boot kits from rockauto for about 20 bucks total, certainly not paying 80 a boot for OEM and a little wary of aftermarket. Guess ill have the damn car up on jacks again!

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I'm starting to see a little greasyness on one of my boots AND on my steering rack:spin:

 

Do you think it's just the boot or your axle is toast aswell?

 

Im hoping just the boot - for 20 bucks it was a no brainer to take it apart and see what the internals look like. I overnighted the parts so hopefully will be into it by the end of the week - no noise coming from that corner yet.

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