rmoore5 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Would they be on this page ? http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD25GTOUTBACKXT-WAGON/_54104_6025977/HEATER-SYSTEM-HEATER-SYSTEM-HOSE--DUCT/B13-720-01.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 My turbo has about 10k on it after rebuild by BNR (VF40), it has slight side to side and slight in and out play, is this pretty normal? Am I crazy for putting this thing back in my car? I know JMP has some units for sale, its just an extra 500 and I will already have dropped almost 6 into this thing by the time I am finished. Thoughts? shaft play is code word for engine rebuild. Do it right. At this point, you're too far down the rabbit hole to start getting cheap on the critical components. Get a JMP turbo, you'll be happy. Our one racer (Sgt.Gator) is running one. If that's not good enough for you, not much is going to satisfy you. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Both my turbos have over 65,000 miles on them. They have zero shaft play, in either direction. Get it rebuilt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Would they be on this page ? http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD25GTOUTBACKXT-WAGON/_54104_6025977/HEATER-SYSTEM-HEATER-SYSTEM-HOSE--DUCT/B13-720-01.html 50 bucks for the pair! Think I might be taking a trip to my local napa! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 I also sent JMP a pm, trying to get a trustworthy VF52 on nasioc is a minefield..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 50 bucks for the pair! Think I might be taking a trip to my local napa! I got both hoses from my local dealer, they are molded, but hey any auto parts store may carry them too. My Dealer gives me a good discount. I also sent JMP a pm, trying to get a trustworthy VF52 on nasioc is a minefield..... Any used turbo you buy should be checked out. unless you know the buyer. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Wheels are in motion, I have: 4 KYB struts from rockauto on the porch http://www.rallitek.com/springs/5634-rallitek-rear-overload-springs-outback-2000-2014.html on the way Few bits and pieces from fredbeans. Cobb DP and Dual adjustable shifter on way Turbo at JMP being assessed Longblock at Riderdude (boxer motors) being built with timing and ARP head studs Radiator from rockauto In discussions with Underdog about a SMFW clutch setup. Some advice on a couple of things. Max, you said before about replacing the orange tgv gaskets, mine are still attached to the intake, is it worth dismantling and replacing them? Part #? What fluids should I stock up on? I will probably buy straight from the dealer as shipping on liquid is often pointless. Anything else I am missing? I need a bunch of the little plastic screw popits for various applications, but dont really want to pay 2 bucks a piece, any aftermarket ones people have found that work well? Should i replace all of the exhaust gaskets? dp to turbo is pretty recent so will probably use that again, should I replace the UP Pipe and TGV to block gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Someone has the part numbers for suitable sub nylon pop-its from Lowes. Exhaust gaskets are another one of those things that are cheap enough to say f it and end up with a leak somewhere after all is back together again. Engine gasket kit didn't have the TGV to block gaskets? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 The kit should have the TGV to head gaskets, mine did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Ill ask Casey if he is planning on sending them back with the motor, but I was more talking about the orange o ring gaskets, should I replace them even though I am not planning on taking that assy apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I would, it's hard enough on the bench (my fuel rails were still on). Mine were very hard and it would not of taken much to make them leak. They were 2009 vintage, if your 2005 are original they are no doubt hard. Hopefully they were in your gasket kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Ill ask Casey if he is planning on sending them back with the motor, but I was more talking about the orange o ring gaskets, should I replace them even though I am not planning on taking that assy apart? If you don't have the orange O-rings at the TGV's to intake manifold, yes the black ones should be replaced with the orange ones. For the record, I "did not" change out the TB to intake o-ring. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Casey is sending me all the unused gaskets, which is good. Lots of goodies arrived today, my cobb DP and shifter are really nice pieces. Did a little prep work swapping over the fans onto the rockauto radiator, all looks identical, hopefully it will be a trustworthy purchase as its pretty much the only thing I have cheaped out on. The fan bolts were all seized, aerocroiled them out and copper greased them back in! Found this nice little trolley jack/chocks/stand/creeper for $30 bucks down from over $100 at hayes true value. Couldn't resist, will just keep the jack in the car I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakyGT Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Did I read right? You bought outback springs for your LGT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakyGT Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I know you live in/around CO but just curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 I always hated the saggy rear end of my wagon, even when it was unloaded. So I thought I found the cure, unfortunately rallitek took them off the website because someone experienced fitment issues. I decided to call rallitek and they put me through to the guy who develops all of their springs, his name was Ben. Ben pointed me towards the linked springs above, he said they were somewhere inbetween the legacy wagon and outback springs, and were a little stiffer also. He said they maybe would be between 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher, but that is exactly what I was looking for. Time will tell I guess, they shipped today so I am excited to put them on as soon as my engine/turbo get back from their respective builders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 It also looks like I might have an issue with my new Cobb DP, the muffler end looks to be cut a little off square and slightly ovaled in one spot, not sure if it will seal with the doughnut gasket - has anyone experienced this? Will take a picture and send it to Cobb I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakyGT Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Weird? Post a couple pics, maybe someone can help ya out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakyGT Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 As for the springs, thats legit. Hopefully they work out just right for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Appreciate it! Ive attached a few pics, first one is the old midpipe, im guessing this is the remains of an oem donut gasket! Im looking to pick up a borla catback on Friday that should mate nicely to my Cobb with a new donut. I don't want to deal with all that rust. Shiny dp pic is the new cobb, its slightly oval, I plan on sending to Cobb for them to advise. If they say it will work i'll just go with it. Last pic with the tire is the ticking issue I have been trying to track down when the car is under load. Looks like one of the wheel weights was catching the plastic, as it was wedged in there! I am hoping the new springs and an alignment will fix my aggressive tire wear on the inside of my rears while loaded. I also plan on inspecting the bushings on the rear susp while I am changing out the shocks. I aerokroiled all of the nuts on the rear susp in preparation for some work - any bushing in particular that go and can cause that type of wear? Previous owner put 2011 WRX wheels on that are still my summer setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 any bushing in particular that go and can cause that type of wear? Previous owner put 2011 WRX wheels on that are still my summer setup. I had the same issue as you, accompanied by a bad bushing squeak. The remedy was to replace both of my rear upper control arms, as the inboard bushings had just disintegrated, leading to lots of tire rub in that same spot. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 I had the same issue as you, accompanied by a bad bushing squeak. The remedy was to replace both of my rear upper control arms, as the inboard bushings had just disintegrated, leading to lots of tire rub in that same spot. Thankyou sir, will take a look. Did you replace the whole arm or just the bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 The loaded arm was $80. Bushings were $8 a piece and a shop quoted me $35 to press them out and new ones in, I said screw it and opted for the no downtime option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 Knee surgery and work have been getting in the way of progress, as soon as my longblock comes back I should be all ready to go. Has anyone ever changed the upper rear arms? man, the gorilla that put the inner bolts on those is STRONG! Quick question, I had the local marina that I work with press the bushings in for beer - I am wondering however if he put the outers in the right way. Catalog has the left and right rear arms listed as different part numbers, the arms look identical so I am assuming the different PN's are because the bushings normally come assembled in the arm so they become a left and a right. Is my assumption right? Received my Custom VF40 from JMP yesterday, sure is purdy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Knee surgery and work have been getting in the way of progress, as soon as my longblock comes back I should be all ready to go. Has anyone ever changed the upper rear arms? man, the gorilla that put the inner bolts on those is STRONG! Quick question, I had the local marina that I work with press the bushings in for beer - I am wondering however if he put the outers in the right way. Catalog has the left and right rear arms listed as different part numbers, the arms look identical so I am assuming the different PN's are because the bushings normally come assembled in the arm so they become a left and a right. Is my assumption right? Received my Custom VF40 from JMP yesterday, sure is purdy!!! You didn't give them the beer first did you:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.