Bulb Guide

[HangKen]

Just for the record after taking my bulbs out they are actually HB 55w bulbs for the 2008 legacy let it be known. My user manual even told me different.

 

I second that... I went out and bought the H-3 Yellows and went under the car to find out that it was 9006 or HB or some type like that....

 

Damn it!! Even the manual said H-3.....

[tito_b0y]

about the headlights, i'm 99% sure they are H7's, right? i just want someone to add the 1% before i order my HID's.

 

and for better light output, should i go 4500 or 5000?

[TSiWRX]

Correct, H7.

 

I'd go for 4500, but 5000 should be just fine, too. This is almost a completely "personal preference" issue. However, keep in mind that over the years, as your bulbs "age," they will blue-shift a bit, and starting off with a lower kelvin temperature bulb may be of-benefit in this sense.

[tito_b0y]

Correct, H7.

 

I'd go for 4500, but 5000 should be just fine, too. This is almost a completely "personal preference" issue. However, keep in mind that over the years, as your bulbs "age," they will blue-shift a bit, and starting off with a lower kelvin temperature bulb may be of-benefit in this sense.

 

even for 2008's? (forgot to mention that in my last post).

 

so 4500 would be a better investment? and brighter as well? (subtly brighter, of course, but brighter nonetheless?)

[TSiWRX]

^ Doh! I don't physically know about 2008s. I apologize, but I'd forgotten to look in your profile bar. :oops: My best-guess (and I'm fairly certain of this) is that yes, you do use the H7 setup, but please do confirm with other '08 owners, just to be sure. I again apologize, but I just want to be certain that my little "guess" there won't cost you money/trouble.

 

As for whether you think the 4500K will be a better investment, that's really hard to say. On the HID-Planet FAQ, it cites that most of the Asian-make HID bulbs typically have a lifespan of < 1000 hours. Since most of the age/run-time related dimming and blue-shift issues tend to become truly more noticeable after you've crested the 1500 run-hour mark, it's honestly hard to say whether or not you'll *ever* notice this, particularly given the potential life-span of the bulb.

 

I'd go about this on a personal preference level. The 5000K won't be a severe compromise, at all, in terms of performance-for-aesthetics. Similarly, whether or not you'll note the 4500K to be a "better performance" fit, due to its slightly warmer hue, will be highly dependent on your unique "brain/eye" preferences. I honestly don't think you could go wrong, either way.

[tito_b0y]

^ Doh! I don't physically know about 2008s. I apologize, but I'd forgotten to look in your profile bar. :oops: My best-guess (and I'm fairly certain of this) is that yes, you do use the H7 setup, but please do confirm with other '08 owners, just to be sure. I again apologize, but I just want to be certain that my little "guess" there won't cost you money/trouble.

 

As for whether you think the 4500K will be a better investment, that's really hard to say. On the HID-Planet FAQ, it cites that most of the Asian-make HID bulbs typically have a lifespan of < 1000 hours. Since most of the age/run-time related dimming and blue-shift issues tend to become truly more noticeable after you've crested the 1500 run-hour mark, it's honestly hard to say whether or not you'll *ever* notice this, particularly given the potential life-span of the bulb.

 

I'd go about this on a personal preference level. The 5000K won't be a severe compromise, at all, in terms of performance-for-aesthetics. Similarly, whether or not you'll note the 4500K to be a "better performance" fit, due to its slightly warmer hue, will be highly dependent on your unique "brain/eye" preferences. I honestly don't think you could go wrong, either way.

 

it's all good, if anything i was at fault for not mentioning i had a 2008. anyways, i'm gonna make a thread about it and thanks for the really helpful input. i'm almost certain i'm going 4500

[fullerslgt]

yep both silverstarts went out. one last night and one tonight. guess i will drive home with the brights on:lol: ok not as funny as the yellow dude, but kinda. i only had those for about 3months!!!!!

[CA08LGT]

I ran PIAA in my 01' Maxima's High, Low, Fog, Dome, Courtesy, Back-up, Trunk, Licence Plate, and maybe some others. I have only owned my 08' LGT for two weeks now, but I will definetely go with the PIAAs in the Subaru.

 

I never had a burn-out, and I sprung for the super extreme whites. No blues for me! I was so happy with them, and how much better I could see, especially with the high-beams on. I even bought them for my wife's car, and my Dad's truck.

[underpowerd]

anybody know the size of the anemic glovebox bulb? box'll be coming out for a cabin filter change soon anyway, so i may as well coincide that dim little guy's demise with the absolutely imperative dome & map upgrades planned -- i'm sick of having to keep a mini flashlight in there

tia

[SubieDoobieDoo]

Be VERY careful "up-grading" any interior bulbs. Brighter means hotter and hotter causes wiring problems and - potentially - fires. Try to find some super-bright, multiple-element LED's (if space permits). You get the light increase and no heat to speak of. Besides, LEDs and ANY non-filiment bulbs are as close as you'll get to "going green". (Al Gore will be proud of you!)

 

Rgds,

[eb50]

i swapped the LEDs. looks great and feels cool.

[eatgeegee]

anyone installed blue LED License plae light on their sedan?

[SubieDoobieDoo]

anyone installed blue LED License plae light on their sedan?

Be careful! Many state laws - as well as municipalities - prohibit any bulb color other than "white" for this important illumination. Typically, a colored bulb - even a blue bulb (simply because of the wavelength of blue light vs. white) isn't as bright.

 

Therefore, many laws make it pretty clear that doing ANYTHING that makes reading the rear license plate harder - even a tinted license plate cover, for example - might get you stopped. Maybe ticketed.

 

But - no question - it'll probably look cool!

 

Rgds,

[eb50]

has anyone changed their high beam bulbs? i am looking for info about it... i suppose i could just go and look at my car

[TSiWRX]

HIR1 mod - you'll be glad you did.

 

Look up the thread on Stern's recommendations ->

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45991&highlight=daniel+stern

 

It's a bit costly, but if you're on dark roads, you'll be glad you paid for it them.

[SubieDoobieDoo]

has anyone changed their high beam bulbs? i am looking for info about it... i suppose i could just go and look at my car (05 OBP OBXT TDCII)

HIR1 mod - you'll be glad you did. Look up the thread on Stern's recommendations ->

Forgive me: I don't recognise your car model.

 

I respect Mr. Stern's expertise but I chose to 'one-up' even HIS esteemed information and add after-market HID's. My car takes the 9007's so the beautiful Apexcone Premium Race 55W solenoid-controlled MEGA-BRIGHT HID's in 5,000K temperature have made the darkest night look more like high noon ...

 

Road signs beginning at 1/4 mile away look like pearls on a string ... =

 

Rgds,

[TSiWRX]

His car model, translated - 2005 Obsidian Black Pearl (color) Outback XT, with TDC Stage II map.

 

And again, as we've discussed many times before, with respect to your p-n-p HID setup, your observed beam throw/pattern will differ significantly from that of the BL/BP chassis models.

[SubieDoobieDoo]

with respect to your p-n-p HID setup, your observed beam throw/pattern will differ significantly from that of the BL/BP chassis models.

 

Right.

 

So noted.

 

On *MY* Legacy GT, the beam pattern with the 50W “race-ready” p-n-p super-bright HID’s passes my State (North Carolina) inspection test with flying colours. Honest truth: I had the car State inspected just this morning and everything was 100 per-cent spot-on. And North Carolina regulations makes them a real stickler for things like headlight aiming and window tinting.

 

So the pattern and "throw" varies “significantly” eh? Hmmmmm … I think I challenge that. Or not. Actually, I don’t care. My car passed inspection. Easily.

 

PLUS - and this is a “biggie” in MY world: Oncoming drivers NEVER flash their high-beams at me.

 

2 main reasons: My lights are aimed as well as can be. And they’re NOT those garish off-colored “show car” headlights that draw the attention of every constable within 100 miles.

 

A couple of weeks ago, I was returning from favourite sushi bar on a dark, just-rained evening and was “tripping the light fantastic” when I popped over a rise in the road on the way home - and out about 85-90 yards was a rather LARGE white-tailed buck deer standing in the middle of the road.

 

With the MASSIVE amount of headlight power in front of me, it wasn’t even remotely close to a panic stop. In fact, it was a completely safe, controlled approach (from more speed than I should have been carrying) … to a complete non-event. Even without him turning his head towards me - CLEARLY showing his reflecting eyes - I saw his form and body color in OODLES of time to stop.

 

Sir, YOU can talk theoretical beam patterns and “throw” all you want. I say that 1), passing State vehicle inspections with NO problems whatsoever 2), not offending oncoming traffic and 3), avoiding a potential accident by NOT hitting a large deer “at speed” - i'm inclined to go with the best lighting solution available - even "non-DOT approved".

 

If it comes down to complying with some antiquated headlight regulation that was written in the driving days of my grandfather - or ME not plowing into an animal that can end up flipping over my bonnet (sorry, “HOOD”) and into my windscreen - with serious injury or death a real possibility ... PLUS no bent sheet metal … and no insurance claim? Man, I gotta go with the sheer headlight “fire-power“. Brighter wins every time when it's as dark as a coal mine on the roadway.

 

I’ve never “almost hit an animal” whilst having my headlights checked. This is real-life, over-speed driving experience I fall back on vs. simply talking about a picture-perfect, text-book headlight beam and a static aiming test with a stationary vehicle - in a mechanic’s garage!

 

I choose to save myself, my vehicle and also respect my fellow motorists.

 

Rgds,

 

For those unwilling to accept after-market HID's - or know that HID's aren't the best choice for a single-filament high beam because "dipping" or "flashing" HIDs on the high-beam circuit can damage the ballasts - the incredible PIAA "Intense White" bulbs top anything I've seen in a filament bulb. A-N-Y-T-H-I-N-G!

 

My wife's Acura high-beams are single filament (9005's) and the overall difference between the PIAA Intense White and a latest-version Sylvania Silver Star is simply jaw-dropping!

[hakgwai]

what bulbs are the 2008 fogs?

9006?

[TSiWRX]

Sigh.... SubieDoobieDoo, I can't believe that I have to go through all of this yet again.

 

I've shown you many times why your reasoning is faulty, obviously, you are either unwilling to accept the truth of the matter, or you're simply failing to understand simple concepts.

 

If you get a chance, simply pull your reflector-type setup next to a BL/BP projector-setup Legacy, and you'll easily see the difference in both cutoff as well as beam pattern throw. From five feet to fifty to five-hundred, it doesn't matter, the difference will be easily seen.

 

And once again, you mistake my reasoning - which is actually complimentary to the ability of your vehicle's reflector housing to accommodate an otherwise completely inappropriate light-source change - for hostility (which, as I've tried to reason with you before, and yet again here, is simply not the case).

 

And yet again, I cannot fathom why you would at all say anything negative about the design of your headlight housing. Old-tech they may be, but again, their ability to take what is a completely different light-source and make it not only usable (i.e. not offensive to oncoming traffic) but even perform noticeably better (per your experience), speaks to the inherent wisdom in their design.

 

Finally, as for your "inspector," I'm truly sorry that he holds the job position that he does - for as he clearly lacks the appropriate knowledge base to make proper decisions, as any aftemarket HID is clearly in violation of roadgoing rules and regulations. However, given that our local "inspectors" can't tell the difference between a catalytic converter or a test-pipe, well, I guess it's simply par-for-course. And then again, seriously, if any of those guys are at all good at what they do, many of our "tuner" vehicles wouldn't be on the roads.

 

Once more, I would suspect that the reason you passed a headlight pattern/alignment inspection, if one were done, was because the reflector assembly of your vehicle's headlights was still able to compensate for the slight deviation in the setup of the light-source. Similar to the situation in the current-generation BL/BP Legacys' projector systems, this is actually an indication again of good engineering of the factory components.

 

SubieDoobieDoo, I've never, as you seem to suggest, poo-poo'ed a p-n-p HID solution for the BL/BP chassis Legacys. I've always said that they're "passable," both from an oncoming vehicle glare/courtesy issue as well as in terms of actually gaining some increase in lumens-on-road and illumination/performance increase. You can search any of my past posts, and you will find this to be true.

 

Similarly, I've also always maintained that the only way to insure best-performance ("legality" is an ancillary issue, as that simply CANNOT be achieved - sure, you may have passed an inspection, but the system is still not Kosher; it's akin to "is stealing stealing, if you don't get caught?" in-actuality, the setup is illegal no matter how it's made, retro or p-n-p, whether it passes an inspection, based on the circumstances and/or the knowledge of the inspector, is inconseqential) of an HID system would be the retrofit of a full-optics, specific-to-said HID, housing into the LGTs headlight assembly. Again, this is undeniable fact, and any comparison of the many beamshots taken of our vehicles (BL/BP chassis Legacys) fitted with a p-n-p system versus a retro would easily bear out such statements.

 

I simply don't understand what you're arguing - nor why it seems to be targeted at me. It just seems to me that you've got your logic backwards, and also that your lack of basic understanding in the technical aspects of this concern is further contributing to your mistaken logic. I urge you to revisit the discussions we had on pages 11 through 18 of this thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45991&highlight=daniel+stern

[SubieDoobieDoo]

If you get a chance, simply pull your reflector-type setup next to a BL/BP projector-setup Legacy, and you'll easily see the difference in both cutoff as well as beam pattern throw. From five feet to fifty to five-hundred, it doesn't matter, the difference will be easily seen.

OK, so I'm a scofflaw. Shoot me!

 

Given that I CAN'T change my reflector housings to projector-type, I'll admit that my "brighter is better" logic isn't the ideal approach. But ... it's my ONLY remedy. The superior design of the projector system gives better throw and - I can only assume - beam pattern and cut off. I don't know. I don't have those housings.

 

Hey, if I could snap my fingers and make completely new, BETTER headlight housings appear on my doorstep, I'd do it. In a heart-beat! I'd love to see those PIAA Intense White bulbs (legal!) in higher-tech housings. Maybe I *WOULDN'T* feel the need for much more powerful p-n-p bulbs!

 

Bringing the issue of different housing designs into the aurgument simply invalidates our discussions as far as reaching a point of possible agreement because I'll do whatever I darned well CAN to see better at night - I'd replace the whole front end of the vehicle if I was able to - but that's not a possibility, is it?

 

No.

 

I'm sorry I noted p-n-p bulbs / system as an aftermarket solution for the newer PROJECTOR-TYPE housings. Apparently they simply won't work. Or make the sort of difference *I* get with these wonderfully BRIGHT bulbs in older housings.

 

I had a choice - yes, it's over-the-line "illegal" - and yes, it smacks of "it ain't wrong if you dpn't get caught!" thinking. Like I'm then only one on the road who has similar thought patterns ..........

 

My car. My responsibility and liability - or not - to make it roadworthy and "legal" as far as headlighting. And I'm a bad, BAD man for tweaking the lighting above and beyond some Neanderthal limits. I "fess up".

 

Happy?

 

OK, I've broken a law. I'm a criminal. And the "victim" here is? .......... What? Some ink on a page in a dusty DOT book?

 

Then again, I'm not in the headlight-bulb selling business so what do I know?

 

Rgds,

[TSiWRX]

OK, so I'm a scofflaw. Shoot me!

 

There's no need - I've made clear my stance on "legality" many times.

 

It's something that simply cannot be denied nor debated around, and as-such, my stance is purely a personal one, in saying that I am only discussing the issues/technicalities at-hand, and will simply not get into the legalities. That is a moral/ethical discussion which I simply feel is not a proper discussion topic, and that it should reside purely within the decision framework of the individual hobbyist/enthusiast.

 

For example, brother sebberry is very, very conscious of this area of modding, and that's his right. I don't feel that it would be in my place to argue against his beliefs nor to try to convince him to "see things my way."

 

Instead, I only focus on the technical aspects of the discussion at-hand.

 

Given that I CAN'T change my reflector housings to projector-type,

 

Actually, that's not quite true.

 

Yes, it would be a rather more difficult undertaking, but such retrofits have been done on many vehicles of many different vintages.

 

You can either completely grassroots it on your own, and start off with your current reflector housing - or, alternatively, you can start-out with an "eBay" replacement projector-type housing, and then modify the optics with OEM take-offs in order to achieve proper optical setup (this is what I ended up doing with my 2Gb DSM).

 

The superior design of the projector system gives better throw and - I can only assume - beam pattern and cut off. I don't know. I don't have those housings.

 

Not necessarily.

 

Although it is possible that this comparison does bear-out in favor of the BL/BP chassis LGTs, this is not a "blanket" case.

 

Don't, for one minute, think that all projector-type headlamps are inherently better than reflector-type. This is FAR from true, and there have been many OEM examples of various projector systems that have fallen far short of the performance of their "lesser technology" counterparts.

 

The problem is one of optical design, it's as simple as that.

 

Bringing the issue of different housing designs into the aurgument simply invalidates our discussions as far as reaching a point of possible agreement because I'll do whatever I darned well CAN to see better at night - I'd replace the whole front end of the vehicle if I was able to - but that's not a possibility, is it?

 

No.

 

Actually, it's not totally impossible - yes, it would be a very difficult project to undertake, but look at the "tuner" scene. There are conversions taking place every day, and drastic examples (i.e. a current-generation Toyota Celica converted to the front end of a current-generation Nissan Z) are not unseen.

 

 

But that's beside the point.

 

What's at-issue here is that you thought, in posts #91 through 93, that your headlights - from a previous generation Legacy, using a reflector-type assembly (and possibly even Fresnel lens) - would present data which was capable of extrapolated to the BL/BP chasis models, using a projector-type housing.

 

That's simply not the case.

 

I'm sorry I noted p-n-p bulbs / system as an aftermarket solution for the newer PROJECTOR-TYPE housings. Apparently they simply won't work. Or make the sort of difference *I* get with these wonderfully BRIGHT bulbs in older housings.

 

Again, you are making totally illogical jumps in your assertions - and totally mistaking what I've written above, as well as have voiced REPEATEDLY in the past.

 

Please once again go back and re-read post #95 in this very thread, the very one which you're replying to.

 

I'll even quote what I've said above for you, so you don't again get confused:

 

SubieDoobieDoo, I've never, as you seem to suggest, poo-poo'ed a p-n-p HID solution for the BL/BP chassis Legacys. I've always said that they're "passable," both from an oncoming vehicle glare/courtesy issue as well as in terms of actually gaining some increase in lumens-on-road and illumination/performance increase. You can search any of my past posts, and you will find this to be true.

 

Seriously, take a moment to search up *any* of my past posts.

 

You'll find that this has been true ever since I "saw" the first beam-shots of such a setup - and that dates to some time in 2005.

 

I've maintained this stance for YEARS, now - and I remain confused as to why you would continually read my statements as being somehow negative towards the p-n-p solution, for the BL/BP.

 

I had a choice - yes, it's over-the-line "illegal" - and yes, it smacks of "it ain't wrong if you dpn't get caught!" thinking. Like I'm then only one on the road who has similar thought patterns ..........

 

My car. My responsibility and liability - or not - to make it roadworthy and "legal" as far as headlighting. And I'm a bad, BAD man for tweaking the lighting above and beyond some Neanderthal limits. I "fess up".

 

Happy?

 

OK, I've broken a law. I'm a criminal. And the "victim" here is? .......... What? Some ink on a page in a dusty DOT book?

 

Again, I've also repeatedly expressed my thoughts on "legality" here in this Forum.

 

Not just in terms of the headlight issue, but also in terms of my other main areas of interest - performance modifications (which runs afoul of federal emissions concerns) as well as speed-detection countermeasures.

 

sebberry, in other instances of discussing the HID-concern, simply asked the question of "is this legal?"

 

The truthful and factual answer - as it can only be - is a simple "no."

 

No one else has really been nearly as hung-up about this as you.

 

Like you said, it's simply your decision, and as long as you can make what you do safe enough for others you share the road with - and it seems that, in your situation, you have taken steps to insure this concern (one of your first posts on this Forum was a plea for everyone to properly align their headlights, which is a very, very important safety consideration).

 

Why the big deal?

 

Then again, I'm not in the headlight-bulb selling business so what do I know?

 

And neither am I.

 

However, even though we are just hobbyists, we should still seek to gain more complete knowledge of this area, particularly as we're actively engaged in such modifications, and are seeking true vision improvement.

 

As I've stated in our discussion on the "Stern thread" referenced prior, you lack basic knowledge in the technical concerns of this particular area (at one point, you even mistook the type of headlamp you had on your vehicle ( http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45991&highlight=daniel+stern&page=14 - posts #204 to #209 ). This kind of fault can lead to bigger problems downstream, and I would urge you to, again, beef-up, as much as possible, your knowledge and know-how in this area.

 

I, for one, have also been guilty of this sin - for example, it wasn't until rather recently that I learned of new research in this field ( care of brother outahere ), which have made me re-examine some of my own beliefs and thoughts about fog-lights.

 

It's important to stay on top of the technology, and know what's actually beneficial - and WHY you're seeing the benefits, as well as how you may even further improve what you're seeing.

[addison]

superbrightleds.com

[SubieDoobieDoo]

superbrightleds.com

Is this website advertising? Is that type of advertising allowed here?

 

THIS is an area where an after-market product fails to even EQUAL the OEM product, IMO.

 

Despite the "ultra holier than thou" attitude of TSi+WRX on headlight bulb IMPROVEMENTS, let's talk about the most common application of gang LEDs: Tail lights / brake lights. These 'super-bright LEDs' - as an after-market plug-in - just don't work with a glowing bulb-specific lens. They ARE brighter then all be-jeez but I slapped a set into the wife-mobile (older Acura TL-S) and two things were horribly apparent. 1, LEDs are ultra-low resistance devices so my "bulb burned out" alert for the brake lights came on - and stayed on. So a resistor or whatever SuperBrightLED calls it - must be installed in EACH "light" circuit. Not a lot of room in there to do this, folks ... THEN, 2, they just weren't as bright as a standard incandescent bulb. Not even CLOSE!

 

If there's one area where I want a LOT of light, it's ... BRAKE LIGHTS! I don't want Mr. Talking Into His Cell Phone behind me to mis-interpret my intentions. When his eyeballs are well-done, that means my brakes are being applied - nuclear-bright brake lights ON! - and if he rear-ends me or I'll sure his *ss into extinction!

 

But that's not the case with these after-market mini LED modules to replace the 1156 / 1157 bulbs. They're just not very bright.

 

I'm ALL for LED's. I'd dump every incandescent and fluorescent bulb in a heart-beat and switch to 100% LEDs - like - TODAY! - if I could. ULTRA-LOW power consumption, no heat produced to speak of, infinite array of colours possible and they last a jillion years. What's not to like?

 

THIS - more than bumping the headlights from glowing filaments to an ignited gas bulb - is where the lens technology has to parallel the illumination source - again, IMO.

 

Bright LED taillights and brake lights rely upon many, MANY LED's in a rather large array. A standard 1156 / 1157 bulb needs "lens technology" - sophisticated prism and refracting surgaces to work properly. These "bulb lenses" just don't spread the LED light enough - and there's not enough light there anyway to begin with.

 

Followed an Infiniti G37 the other night and when he hit the brakes on THOSE multiple-grouping LEDs, they get your attention!!! Thought I was in a tanning booth!

 

THEM'S real brake lights to me! But a simple plug-in of 5 or 7 mini LEDs in a housing - to replace an 1156 / 1157 bulb because that's all the space you have to work with?

 

Don't do it!

 

Rgds,

[TSiWRX]

^ Try just looking into the single LED of the SureFire G2-LED, or L5. Our soldiers and law-enforcement personnel have come to trust these devices to dazzle and disorient their opponents and enemies - and trust me, you do NOT want to be on the receiving end of one of these items in a low-light combative scenario.

 

Compared against that 6-LED workshop light that's in the garage? Even with collimator optics to help its output, the single LED of these high-powered devices simply overwhelms.

 

Translation: it's not just the number of LEDs.

 

You can wire up a hundred of the common "keychain flashlight" LEDs, and it still won't be bright enough to serve as a proper tail-light.

 

But with the right LED, even one will suffice.

 

There's other technical problems, however, which must be overcome (oh, and BTW, LED applications can produce heat, a LOT of heat - heat that's in-particular detrimental to the LED itself.....my involvement with LED-based flashlights came at just the time, the early 2000s, that they were becoming popular on the custom-built and high-end retail market - think the FireFly, McLux, SureFire L6, etc.: you'd be surprised to what levels "heat sinking" had to be taken into account, and, for a more recent example, look at this custom application: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72322&page=4 ; heat is very, very much an issue with LEDs - sure, they don't "forward project" such heat [and that in and of itself poses a concern for certain automotive applications], but yes, heat is a problem that has to be dealt with) - and that, instead (along with aesthetics and having integral fail-safe backups) the reason why so many of today's high-end vehicle tail-lights utilize arrays, instead of just a single, super-high-powered LED.

 

This is a known problem/concern in automotive LED-based lighting, and is one that's already, as you alluded to, figured out by OEM makes (of which Audi, for example, is now pioneering, in the mass market, LED headlights), but is also a known concern for those of us who dabble in automotive lighting as a hobby.

 

Look at the various concerns already addressed in this "Rear Fogs" thread below:

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31502&highlight=rear+fog

 

Currently, if you've selected an aftermarket LED-bulb solution that is incorrect/insufficient for your desired usage, it's simply because you haven't searched hard enough and ended up with the wrong product.

 

Even on the aftermarket scene, there's now a very, very good chance that what you need is indeed available, and also suitable for your end-use desires.

 

And for once, you're understanding that it's not just the source - but also the optics that comes into play, here. A part of the problem with the situation you'd described, of your/your wife's vehicle, is due to the mismatch of lighting type to reflector/lens optics design.

 

This is the reason why, for example, our mirror turn-signal lenses are designed the way they are, and also, for example, why many LED flashlights as well as vehicle lighting take advantage of complicated optical lens/reflector structures to best-utilize the light that's been made available from this light source.

 

It's akin to the problem that can be seen from an "improper," "plug-and-play" HID-kit setup. Simply stated, neither the lens nor the reflector (and yes, in many case, complicated lenses are NOT necessary - look simply at the MrBulk VIP BigBigBulkHead - which utilizes an ultraclear lens - with no optical qualities other than that it is super clear, thus allowing as much light to pass through as physically possible: the "amplified" effect of its beam/throw is purely due to the differences of its optional head's reflector bowl design, versus that of its smaller, daily-carry head) is set up to best optimize the light produced by the light source, with the end-result being that a portion of the light that's produced is wasted, and/or that "more light" must be supplied to overcome this limitation.

 

And again, no, I'm not being "holier than thou." I'm just trying to help educate you, and correct you of your mistakes.

Edited July 2, 2008 by TSi+WRX