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Bulb Guide


Deer Killer

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anyone swapped in some LEDs for the interior lights and whered u get it from?
Yes. Try www.superbrightleds.com

 

You can also click on THIS - I think: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2F1157.htm

 

Cannot say enough good things about these people. I've ordered several items and their service is lightning fast and the goods are ... well, perfect.

 

The good - and the bad - about going LED.

 

Da good: Nice lighting. Low energy usage. You'll probably never, EVER have to replace one. More expensive than regular bulbs - which is why your manufacturer doesn't use 'em.

 

The bad. Actually, the not so bad, really: Many circuits that also have a "burned out bulb" indicator may show a burned out bulb when your new LED(s) are glowing quite brightly, thank you! Remember, these tell-tale circuits act on "resistance" and a no-resistance burnt our incandescent bulb - or ultra-low resistance LED - gives the same basic indicator signal.

 

The cure: You'll possibly need resistor(s) in some of the circuits to fool the system. As with ANY mod, "Y.M.M.V." ........

 

But in those impossible-to-reach places that really p!ss you off when the bulb DOES go on the fritz? Here's the sure-fire, one-time fix ...

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That may be true for your application on an earlier-generation Legacy, SubieDoobieDoo, but it is not true for the BL/BP.

 

*** NO CLUE what the Hell a BL/BP is. Jeezus ... speak ENGLISH! =:)

 

For the BL/BP, you'll have to somehow pass the wiring from the bulbs through the weathercover/dust-shield on the "inside" of the headlamp (and fog-lamps, if that's also desired) assembly.

 

*** There is at least *one* weather-proof grommet attached to the most recent Apexcone harness I've seen and don't know it that can somehow be integrated into the system on newer Subies.

 

For the low-beams, this procedure will require either that you take the time to fish the wiring through the existing harness grommet - which is a time-consuming and tedious task - or will require that you cut a hole *somewhere* in the weathercover/dust-shield (replacements/spares can be had from Subaru parts retailers for a very reasonable cost).

 

*** I'll take your word for it - despite the fact that you have so heavy-handedly opposed these after-market HID's previously, "Mr. Stern", but am surprised the basic all-weather philsophy that has guided previous Subes so successfully has changed so radically.

 

For the fogs, the procedure is a bit more involved, as the weathercover/dust-cover for the fog lamps on the BL/BP models are, themselves, used to terminate the connections from the main harness.

 

*** OK ........... but there's still NO "gluing" involved. Maybe a dab or two of some silicone caulk here-n-there - but no actual "glue" required. As in ... gluing something plastic to something ELSE plastic - permanently.

 

Just about whatever it takes to achive such a dramatic improvement in lighting over ANY incandescent bulb is worth it.

 

I.M.O.

 

Everyone has their own opinions - don't you?

 

=:)

 

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Well, I appreciate your response, TSi+WRX, but where you're getting this petulance and insulting is beyond me. That's not how I sent it. If that's how you recieved it, then that's on you. If anything, I'm frustrated. Which I have no problem admitting. I'm TRYING to understand the basics, I've read and re-read. What happens is: a topic will begin and somewhere alond the way two or more people will begin to engage in a back-and-forth totally diverging from the "basics". I'm sure if you re-read some of the threads you'll see what I mean. In any case, thanks for your help.
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^ Perhaps it is just the way of the Intr4w3b, crossing what would normally be easily understood human interactions - maybe I was reading too much into the tone of your earlier posts, for that, I apologize. :)

 

Believe me, I understand your frustration - but at the same time, believe it or not, I've also read nearly every one of those posts, in every of those threads, as well as every external resource, that I'm directing you to.

 

There comes a point where you simply have to buckle down and say "I'm going to start with the very basics."

 

In your case, you've got to start by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of lighting (currently, for your needs, focus on standard halogen incandescents - basing that off of the specific fitment/bulbs used for your '08 - and then branch into basic HID tech).

 

Without that base-of-knowledge, you'll just get yourself more and more confused, which was what happened above with the "squirrel finders," the "heat/bowls," and the wattage issue.

 

 

----

 

 

That may be true for your application on an earlier-generation Legacy, SubieDoobieDoo, but it is not true for the BL/BP.

 

*** NO CLUE what the Hell a BL/BP is. Jeezus ... speak ENGLISH! =http://legacygt.com/forums/../images/smilies/smile.gif

 

You're on a Forum initially dedicated to the BL/BP, the 4th generation Subaru Legacy/Liberty.

 

You say you're a Subaru enthusiast, here's some reading for you:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy

 

For the BL/BP, you'll have to somehow pass the wiring from the bulbs through the weathercover/dust-shield on the "inside" of the headlamp (and fog-lamps, if that's also desired) assembly.

 

*** There is at least *one* weather-proof grommet attached to the most recent Apexcone harness I've seen and don't know it that can somehow be integrated into the system on newer Subies.

 

For the low-beams, this procedure will require either that you take the time to fish the wiring through the existing harness grommet - which is a time-consuming and tedious task - or will require that you cut a hole *somewhere* in the weathercover/dust-shield (replacements/spares can be had from Subaru parts retailers for a very reasonable cost).

*** I'll take your word for it - despite the fact that you have so heavy-handedly opposed these after-market HID's previously, "Mr. Stern", but am surprised the basic all-weather philsophy that has guided previous Subes so successfully has changed so radically.

 

Again, you miss the obvious, and again, I ask you to read through *ALL* of my past posts.

 

Please go and find me actual quotes, of my past writing, where I "so heavy-handedly oppose aftermarket HID's."

 

You keep insisting that's my stance.

 

You repeatedly refuse to acknowledge the simple (and logged, for all to see, via the past posts) truth that I was among the earlier converts (and by this, we're talking late-2005, yes, that's 4-5 years ago) of those who, upon seeing proof of how well the BL/BP's factory (optimized for traditional incandescent halogen) optics could handle simple H7-based plug-and-play kits, recanted such assertions and assumptions.

 

You keep attacking me.

 

Why?

 

My screen-name is the same in virtually every on-line automotive/automotive-related Forum community.

 

I've always maintained the same:

 

- plug-and-play HID kits will not give optimal results, but the results can well easily exceed what is available from either standard-wattage or slight-overwattage replacement aftermarket incandescent halogen fitments

 

- plug-and-play HID kits will give results inferior to matched full-optics retrofits

 

- plug-and-play HID kits may or may not cause an unacceptable amount of glare to oncoming vehicles/drivers: much of this is dependent on the *specific* headlamp assembly in-question, as well as the specific bulb fitment, and it can be mitigated or even minimized with either proper or conservative aiming

 

- legally speaking, neither plug-and-play kits nor retrofits are truly "legal"

 

- whether you will "see better" with HIDs (even of 4300K to 5000K color-temperature) versus traditional halogen incandescents (including how "white" said incandescent happens to be) is actually greatly dependent on both your specific driving conditions as well as how well your eyes/brain "take," on a subjective level, to "white light"

 

This has been my stance on the issue as of the past 3-4 years. I have not strayed from this, anywhere, that I can remember.

 

I see - no pun intended - both pros and cons of HIDs as well as standard halogen incandescents, and I have always sought to present a balanced and factually informative picture to anyone asking questions.

 

So, why, I ask, do you continue to attack me? Why do you continue to put words which I have never uttered into my mouth? Go ahead, search my past posts here and elsewhere - as long as the statements are in-context, I can guaranty you that I have never gone to the lengths you've accused me of. :mad:

 

And you'll "take my word for it?" :lol:

 

Why not just do a few searches on how to put in aftermarket plug-and-play HIDs for the BL/BP?

 

You'll see that all of such posts say exactly what I say - that you'll either have to fishtape through the existing grommet/harness pass-through or somehow cut the dust-cover on the low-beams.

 

What I say?

 

How about what *everyone* who has actually performed this modification on their BL/BP says? Still don't want to believe me, your evil nemesis, right? Read on. I cite concrete examples below.

 

For the fogs, the procedure is a bit more involved, as the weathercover/dust-cover for the fog lamps on the BL/BP models are, themselves, used to terminate the connections from the main harness.

 

*** OK ........... but there's still NO "gluing" involved. Maybe a dab or two of some silicone caulk here-n-there - but no actual "glue" required. As in ... gluing something plastic to something ELSE plastic - permanently.

 

:lol:

 

So that RTV which allows the aftermarket HID bulb assembly to go through the factory weather/dust-seal - that's not glue, right?

 

:lol:

 

Again, you're trying to dig for semantics to dig yourself out of a hole. Just like you did when you confused reflector-based lighting for projector-based.

 

You gave incorrect/wrong recommendations, period.

 

No, you don't *NEED* to cut a hole. But the difficulties of not doing so is something that even experienced retrofitters here will at least make the incoming newbie aware of, if not outright dissuade them against (ref: old posts by MiniStiGuy [whose RX330 retro "walk-through," by the way, demonstrates this very technique, even though, in his modesty, he didn't make a big deal of it], mr_luv, VX_CL, and the like). Do you need to use a Dremel? No, most simply use a drill with a 1" drywall bit to effect the pass-through hole (ref: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/plug-and-play-hid-install-69506.html?t=69506&highlight=HID) - but a Dremel certainly can get the job done just as well, and certainly, if you want to cut the side (as one recent retrofitter demonstrated via pictures: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2874011&postcount=11), it can well make a cleaner cut. And this need to cut/modify is further compounded for the BL/BP if you wanted to also put HIDs in the fogs - just look up part number 84931AE210, and tell me that there's an easy way around that one. :lol:

 

Is RTV or other silicone sealant "glue," per se?

 

I'm no chemist, but my guess is that no, it isn't.

 

But is the RTV sealing the cut to make it weather/dust-proof? Yep.

 

You said, specifically:

 

These Apexcone DDE after-market HID's are *strictly* P-n-P. ZERO mods, no Dremel cuts, no glue - nothing!

 

Zero mods, right? Nothing, right?

 

:lol:

 

Everyone has their own opinions - don't you?

 

Yes, but most people at least try to state their opinion as opinion - not as fact.

 

You repeatedly insist that something you say is fact, when it is simply opinion.

 

You repeatedly give out wrong information and misleading recommendations.

 

You repeatedly attack me after I call you out on such mistakes - and even, in several cases, attack me for trying to, truly, help you.

 

Go ahead, keep going. I welcome you showing others here exactly how much you know, or don't. :lol:

Edited by TSi+WRX

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ Perhaps it is just the way of the Intr4w3b, crossing what would normally be easily understood human interactions - maybe I was reading too much into the tone of your earlier posts, for that, I apologize. :)

 

Believe me, I understand your frustration - but at the same time, believe it or not, I've also read nearly every one of those posts, in every of those threads, as well as every external resource, that I'm directing you to.

 

There comes a point where you simply have to buckle down and say "I'm going to start with the very basics."

 

In your case, you've got to start by familiarizing yourself with the basic types of lighting (currently, for your needs, focus on standard halogen incandescents - basing that off of the specific fitment/bulbs used for your '08 - and then branch into basic HID tech).

 

Without that base-of-knowledge, you'll just get yourself more and more confused, which was what happened above with the "squirrel finders," the "heat/bowls," and the wattage issue.

 

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

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:) Give those basic resources I cited a read - my bet is that after you're through with the linked "Automotive Lighting FAQ," you'll have enough knowledge to hash things out, thoroughly, with any of us here, to get you where you want to be, in terms of lighting power. :)

 

Best of luck! :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 month later...

^ In what capacity? ;)

 

I think that their warning there is a good one, that these are not to be used as headlamps - but I think that as dedicated ancillary lamps (i.e. markers, accents, and perhaps even DRLs), as long as there's not a heatsinking issue, they should work OK.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ Unknown - it would depend on the optics involved.

 

There's many ways to shape the light coming out of the emitter, and you'll need to find the right setup.

 

But that's only if you truly intended to use your fogs for foul-weather and/or other road-lighting.

 

If you use your fog just for "looks," then it shouldn't be a problem.

 

Whether or not that application has sufficient heat-sinking, though, will remain a potential problem, regardless.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 3 months later...
2005 SUBARU Legacy (Sedan)

 

Low beam headlamp

H7 - Plastic reflector, overwattage not recommended.

 

 

Of course I found this after I bought 100W Hella Xenon blues. Actually, I spoke to someone at Susquehanna Motorsports (http://www.rallylights.com) about getting Osram Hyper 65W bulbs and the 100 watters were suggested. I should have asked if that's what he had in his Outback Sport. All I asked about is if the wiring is capable of dealing with that wattage.

 

I'll definitely be disconnecting the DRLs today.

Lehigh Valley Subaru Enthusiasts http://alturl.com/o4org

 

Because Station Wagon

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For incandescent LO beam / driving / fog light bulb swap-outs, many might consider after-market HID kits. I've been ripped by one certain forum member - I just hit the delete key - and my older Sube GT wagon is like a different car at night with after-market LO beam HID's!!! (Wait until HE gets a little older - doubt if he'll get any smarter, however - and can't see as well as he used to after the sun goes down!!!)

 

 

^ :lol: Let's start this "ripped by another member" thing again. :lol::lol:

 

How many times do I have to reiterate the facts about HIDs, as well as my personal stance on them? Why do you keep bending my words?

 

All *anyone* has to do is backtrack over even the last two pages of this thread, and they'll easily see where you have virtually all of your facts confused, as well as the amount of misinformation that you spew. :mad:

 

And SubieDoobieDoo, I'm really getting tired of the repeated personal insults, which I've asked you, quite nicely and repeatedly, to stop. :mad::mad:

 

The facts of the matter are that you've repeatedly made factual mistakes, of which I've corrected you, starting from page 7 of this thread, alone, but also well before that time (REF: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/daniel-stern-lighting-and-subaru-headlight-options-45991p14.html?t=45991&page=14), with everything from basic automotive knowledge and know-how to specific basic scientific principles that govern lighting applications.

 

Anyone can easily reason, for themselves, who has presented factual and truthful information - and it's not you.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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I have an 08 Legacy. Are my DRLs my High Beams? Would that be bulb type 9005? What is the stick wattage? I wanna change my DRLs, but am unsure as to what bulb type I would need and what wattage I would need to get. Thanks for any help anyone can give.
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I have an 08 Legacy. Are my DRLs my High Beams? Would that be bulb type 9005? What is the stick wattage? I wanna change my DRLs, but am unsure as to what bulb type I would need and what wattage I would need to get. Thanks for any help anyone can give.

Yes, the DRL's are run off the high beams. If I were you, I would do what most of us do and disable the DRL as they're next to useless and run a good low/high combo. Like an Osram 65W in the low and an HIR in the high.

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^ Like the man said, they're off your 9005 high-beams, operated at reduced voltage.

 

Since many of us favor the HIR1 upgrade for the 9005 highs, we also tend to simultaneously dump the DRLs, as it is, so-far, an unknown as to what kind of longevity or other potential issues could result from using the HIR1s in such a fashion.

 

However, if you cannot lose the factory DRLs - either out of your personal preference or due to stricter lighting-code enforcement and/or safety inspections in your area, that may be a no-go.....

 

One possible alternative has been explored by some European members on SubaruForester.org who are running an alternative LED DRLs (such as the Hella or Phillips units), fired off of the DRL relay. Since these units are E-code approved (also as long as they are installed in a manner that meets their country's codes for DRLs), they have a legally viable work-around of the issue.

 

My wife's '09 FXT carries the DRL-disable/HIR1-high modification. I still think about investing the money for a set of the Hella LED DRL units, to improve visibility/safety.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 month later...
^ Damn, I can't remember. I'll check and post-up later..... :redface:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Rear turn signal,High mount stop light

7440

 

Tail light, Stop light, Rear sidemarker

7443

 

Is high mount stop light the same as the 3rd brake in a sedan with no wing? or the other one? why can't they be the same?

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I checked the '05 "Vacation Pix," with hopes that it would list the actual bulb used: it only said "12V 21W."

 

The same description, however, is given to the turn signals, one can assume that it is thus indeed 7440. And yes, the "(Center) High Mount Stop Light" is indeed the 3rd brake light, inside the rear windscreen of a sedan - with or without factory wing, this was OEM standard-equipment (ones with wings thus had a redundant center high brake lamp). This unit is also commonly abbreviated as "CHMSL."

 

I pulled it a while ago, to replace it with brother ArcTec34's awesome LED board, but I honestly don't remember if it was a 7440, as I wasn't paying much attention. :redface: Since I have more than a few 7440 bulbs laying around the garage, I can't be sure that it's that one that's pulled, and not another.....

 

 

----

 

 

Edit, found ArcTec OP.....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gauging-interest-led-third-brake-lights-112201.html?t=112201&highlight=7440

 

:)

Edited by TSi+WRX

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ No thanks needed - just glad to help. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 month later...

Considering these: "Halo Automotive Solaris Yellow 9006 (12v 55w) Bulb - Twin Pack"

Automotive; $21.59

for fog replacements on my 2008 LGT. They're also labled HB4 and look to be a 90 degree bend unit. Is this the correct fitment? How about the brand? The ratings were 41/2 stars out of 5. Comments very welcome. Thanks. (By the way, I found them on amazon, you can see pic there).

 

Okay, these are halogens, so wattage shouldn't be a problem, should it?

 

From their website: "Twin Pack. Halo Halogen Solaris Yellow light bulbs contain a real gold coating to give maximum visibility. Halogen light bulbs are currently the most often used in vehicles. Halogens have the capacity to produce proper illumination on the road, keeping your family safe. Halo Automotive offers replacement halogen bulbs in 4 cool colors. Halo Automotive is a manufacturer of premium aftermarket lighting products, utilizing the latest in Japanese design and technology."

Edited by blackturboblack
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a 2010 Legacy GT and recently cleared my headlights. I am looking to replace my front indicator light. The owner's manual says I need a "W21W" bulb with wattage of 12V-21W.

 

Any suggestions on where to find this or if it goes by a different name? I am looking for a chrome bulb that glows auburn.

 

Thanks

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They're also labled HB4 and look to be a 90 degree bend unit. Is this the correct fitment?

I do believe the 08-09 LGT retains the H3-style foglight bulb. HB4 is incorrect and won't fit. As far as what to get, it is entirely up to you. You have 2 choices: more light at the sacrifice of performance in bad weather, or better light to improve bad weather performance. If you want better, the best bulbs are selective yellow.

Here is a selection of both types

http://store.candlepower.com/h3bulbs.html

Careful with overwattage bulbs, they might melt the tiny housing. I do believe stock is 55w.

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I do believe the 08-09 LGT retains the H3-style foglight bulb. HB4 is incorrect and won't fit.

 

^ Nope, the '08-'09s are HB4/9006 - hence the popular HIR-1 "hi-low" mod to cover for this area. ;):)

 

REF: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fog-light-09-legacy-131426.html?t=131426&highlight=9006+fog :)

Edited by TSi+WRX

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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