Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 You'll need a stock up pipe to turbo gasket, turbo to DP gasket and a Grimmspeed 2X thick DP to mid pipe gasket. I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg Replace the oil return line. Leave the bolts loose at the turbo to up pipe until you have the tmic positioned and tight at the throttle body end. The bolts I used are the same as the ones that bolt the up pipe bracket to the block, the dealer has them. I find the bolts make it easier to line up the turbo. My Tuner is http://www.tuningalliance.com tell Mike I sent you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiedad51 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Here's a thread you can refer to on the Pill. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vf-52-install-and-parts-needed-130549.html?t=130549&highlight=vf52+restrictor+pill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 That's what i'm hoping to have happen when i get my car back up and running. Let's hope for the best for both of our cars!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 You'll need a stock up pipe to turbo gasket, turbo to DP gasket and a Grimmspeed 2X thick DP to mid pipe gasket. I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg Replace the oil return line. Leave the bolts loose at the turbo to up pipe until you have the tmic positioned and tight at the throttle body end. The bolts I used are the same as the ones that bolt the up pipe bracket to the block, the dealer has them. I find the bolts make it easier to line up the turbo. My Tuner is www.tuningalliance.com tell Mike I sent you. I have a Uncle who owns a pretty large auto parts company here in NJ, so i can get all of the gaskets you listed at a discounted price. Instead of spending the money for the grimmspeed 2x thick dp to midpipe gasket you thinks its okay to just double up on gaskets there? If not i will purchase the grimmspeed one without hesitation. So you bolted the turbo to the up pipe first. I see you pulled your engine. Hopefully it is just as convenient with it still in the car. I will definetely replace the oil return line, thank you, if anyone has a part number or a link to this part it is greatly appreciated!! And yea i see some people replace certain bolts out of reasons for convenience. Not sure which bolts everyone is referring to but i will soon find out which ones are a pain in the ass. And yes i have already spoke to Mike after reading your reviews and threads I will most likely be going with him and next time we speak i will mention your user name. Thanks again for all the input, i really appreciate it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 The first time I put the VF52 the engine was still in the car. I replaced the oil return line when the vf52 went in. Trying to line up the turbo inlet tube, oil return and studs, it became really appearent that using bolts would make the job much easier. When I installed the ej257 (that's when the picture was taken) that's when I changed over to bolts. But the tmic was still a PITA. Last Oct I had to loosen the turbo to get the tranny out. When it cam time to install the tmic, I left the bolts for the turbo loose, placed the tmic in the TB hose and got the turbo end of it close, then tightened the TB hose clamp, then started the two bolts at the turbo to tmic, started the bracket bolts, tighened the tmic to turbo bolts, bracket bolts, then the up pipe bolts. Took longer to type this then to install the tmic. I have a IPR tmic on that car. I have also learned not to worry about the bottom bracket on the DP at the tranny. Now that it is on, I have a leak at the DP to Midpipe. When warm weather comes I'll get under there and remove the support bracket as it has been for the last 3 years. The dealer will have a oil return line, just call them and order it, they have the part number. Your uncle may know of some oil resistant hose that will fit as a oil retunr hose too. Ask him. I think Goodyear makes some. Just make sure it fits over both tubes. There's no pressure there just a drain hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 The first time I put the VF52 the engine was still in the car. I replaced the oil return line when the vf52 went in. Trying to line up the turbo inlet tube, oil return and studs, it became really appearent that using bolts would make the job much easier. When I installed the ej257 (that's when the picture was taken) that's when I changed over to bolts. But the tmic was still a PITA. Last Oct I had to loosen the turbo to get the tranny out. When it cam time to install the tmic, I left the bolts for the turbo loose, placed the tmic in the TB hose and got the turbo end of it close, then tightened the TB hose clamp, then started the two bolts at the turbo to tmic, started the bracket bolts, tighened the tmic to turbo bolts, bracket bolts, then the up pipe bolts. Took longer to type this then to install the tmic. I have a IPR tmic on that car. I have also learned not to worry about the bottom bracket on the DP at the tranny. Now that it is on, I have a leak at the DP to Midpipe. When warm weather comes I'll get under there and remove the support bracket as it has been for the last 3 years. The dealer will have a oil return line, just call them and order it, they have the part number. Your uncle may know of some oil resistant hose that will fit as a oil retunr hose too. Ask him. I think Goodyear makes some. Just make sure it fits over both tubes. There's no pressure there just a drain hose. The only studs i remember are the ones at the UP to Turbo, Are these the ones you are referring to when you say replace with bolts? Also i know nothing of how to prime a turbo during installation so if you or anyone has any advice on this it would be greatly appreciated. My turbo is from a 2013 wrx and has 19k on it. Some say there is no need to prime others argue that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 No need to prime, just start the engine as normal. I did drip a few drops of oil into the new vf52 but the hole is small... For my new short block, I just started the engine, just like the factory dose it. Yes, the three studs in the up pipe get replaced with bolts. 10mmX1.25 Remember to use anti-sieze compound on all nuts and bolts. You'll need to cut the heatshield to make it fit. It gets much smaller. Cut a slot for the WG arm. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 No need to prime, just start the engine as normal. I did drip a few drops of oil into the new vf52 but the hole is small... For my new short block, I just started the engine, just like the factory dose it. Yes, the three studs in the up pipe get replaced with bolts. 10mmX1.25 Remember to use anti-sieze compound on all nuts and bolts. You'll need to cut the heatshield to make it fit. It gets much smaller. Cut a slot for the WG arm. Ok i will take your advice on the turbo since you have experience doing it twice. Cool, I think i have some 10mmx1.25 bolts out in my shop. Ill have to pick up some anti-sieze compound My VF40 heat shield with modification will fit a vf52? cool, i was going to pick up a shield from a 09-13 wrx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I chose to get the bolts from the dealer because I was worried about the heat in that area. I wanted to get bolt that would handle the heat, not just any bolt. After getting the ej257 and all the parts from the dealership, the guy gave me a hand full of bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 ...After getting the ej257 and all the parts from the dealership, the guy gave me a hand full of bolts... Maybe they remember selling me the 257 and toss me some bolts and pop its when I go buy a few more items. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/29/b5894e71f565e6547fa061a6c41ad5c5.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/29/b77c81ad5626f2a3e986c9d5983a141c.jpg vf52 with 18k came in today, appears to be in near perfect shape and has zero shaft play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 will my oem bypass valve perform well with this turbo and a new tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 will my oem bypass valve perform well with this turbo and a new tune? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 There it is, just pulled it out, although the side to side shaft play is extremely minimal, the blades appear to be slightly bent. There is no forward to back shaft play at all... what do you guys think ? http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/b2eeec64d6ea32e0f49bd15ef15e1171.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 just pulled out the banjo bolt closest to the turbo and it still had the filter intact but it appeared to pretty clean and far from clogged while removing the banjo bolt it I dropped a washer, I know one goes flush against the inner head of the bolt, where does the other one go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Really, any shaft play is too much. If those blades contacted that's it. The crush coppers go under the head of the bolt and between the banjo eyelet and turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Really, any shaft play is too much. If those blades contacted that's it. The crush coppers go under the head of the bolt and between the banjo eyelet and turbo. Yea I mean the turbo is being replaced anyway, I just figured since they don't look chewed up, chipped, or broken, and the side to side shaft play is so minimal, that my turbo is actually in decent shape for having 110k on it... Most people on the forum who's turbos were starved of oil stated their turbo had a lot of play forward to back plus enough side to side play to make contact with just slight hand pressure. I'm just hoping it's a good sign that there is not any additional damage done to my car. No metal shavings found anywherewhere and everything seems to be extremely clean. Maybe my turbo wasn't being starved of oil and it was just a bad OCV that threw the P0011 code. Thanks for the copper washers info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyMonkey Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 I have a VF52 as well as a built engine and every pipe sans headers until the new future. Great setup ! Put the Vf52 in and tune ASAP. Drive OUT of boost and very conservatively from where you install turbo and get your tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee07 Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Go vf52 on e85. Great setup for the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 I have a VF52 as well as a built engine and every pipe sans headers until the new future. Great setup ! Put the Vf52 in and tune ASAP. Drive OUT of boost and very conservatively from where you install turbo and get your tune. I agree my car will have a map loaded for this set up before it is even turned back on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 OP - if you haven't seen this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html can anyone recommend a good flush to use? Also any opinions on the picture of my VF40 with 110k on it i posted 2 days ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Really, any shaft play is too much. If those blades contacted that's it. The crush coppers go under the head of the bolt and between the banjo eyelet and turbo. This. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 This. I understand and completely agree. I mean compared to people who have had additional problems with their car resulting from turbo failure or a starved turbo, when they removed their turbo did it appear to be in similar shape? Was there any shaft play? Was it in worse shape? Were metal shards visible anywhere through out the removal process? Just trying to hear some feedback from some people who have been through this. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 can anyone recommend a good flush to use? Also any opinions on the picture of my VF40 with 110k on it i posted 2 days ago? Are you asking about Gunk Motor Flush ? I have used it for years but haven't lately. Subaru has a Flush at the parts counter at the dealer. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I understand and completely agree. I mean compared to people who have had additional problems with their car resulting from turbo failure or a starved turbo, when they removed their turbo did it appear to be in similar shape? Was there any shaft play? Was it in worse shape? Were metal shards visible anywhere through out the removal process? Just trying to hear some feedback from some people who have been through this. Thanks! Well here goes. For the compressor wheel to have contacted the housing, the bearing has either already failed, or is currently failing. When the bearing begins to fail it starts putting bearing metal into the lubrication system. There is no way to know FOR SURE how long that bearing has been failing. My turbo did this. The shaft had not snapped yet, but it still put Copper colored metal into my pan. As you stated there is no side to side play, some in and out. There should be none. At this time, if you haven't already, Pull the oil pan, pull the oil pickup, pull the oil pump and check for the metal. Clean out the metal. Clean clean clean!!! If there is any paste in the oil pan or larger pieces of iron or steel (they will be magnetic) you may have bigger problems. Pull valve covers and check for any metal and GOLD paste. If there is paste in the valve cover you may want to ask mr. tris about his trademark I would recommend a new oil pump, oil pickup tube, both ocv's, a new oil cooler, and your choice on both intake cam gears. I did all this. Repeat failures come from lack of lubrication, so you should clean/replace that pass side oil feed line to the turbo, the entire section that runs under the intake manifold. If there are filters in the banjo bolts, remove them, keep them out. Those compressor wheel fins do look like they contacted. I would also consider cleaning out or replacing the intercooler, remove the intake manifold and blow it out best you can. If the engine did ingest any metal you don't want it to make its way through the engine and contact the turbine wheel and cause another failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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