Alex609 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Well here goes. For the compressor wheel to have contacted the housing, the bearing has either already failed, or is currently failing. When the bearing begins to fail it starts putting bearing metal into the lubrication system. There is no way to know FOR SURE how long that bearing has been failing. My turbo did this. The shaft had not snapped yet, but it still put Copper colored metal into my pan. As you stated there is no side to side play, some in and out. There should be none. At this time, if you haven't already, Pull the oil pan, pull the oil pickup, pull the oil pump and check for the metal. Clean out the metal. Clean clean clean!!! If there is any paste in the oil pan or larger pieces of iron or steel (they will be magnetic) you may have bigger problems. Pull valve covers and check for any metal and GOLD paste. If there is paste in the valve cover you may want to ask mr. tris about his trademark I would recommend a new oil pump, oil pickup tube, both ocv's, a new oil cooler, and your choice on both intake cam gears. I did all this. Repeat failures come from lack of lubrication, so you should clean/replace that pass side oil feed line to the turbo, the entire section that runs under the intake manifold. If there are filters in the banjo bolts, remove them, keep them out. Those compressor wheel fins do look like they contacted. I would also consider cleaning out or replacing the intercooler, remove the intake manifold and blow it out best you can. If the engine did ingest any metal you don't want it to make its way through the engine and contact the turbine wheel and cause another failure. It has no in and out play at all, and has VERY minimal side to side. I am in the process of checking everything listed and have yet to find anything at all, so i am hoping this continues through out the rest of the search. I have 2 new OCV's coming this week. The banjo bolt located near the oil cap in the engine bay had no filter in it and the banjo bolt closest to the turbo had a filter, appeared to be pretty clear but still removed it. My oil was sent out this morning to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I will post the results when I receive them. I do not to plan to replace any additional parts until I find metal, or see it recorded in the lab results. Hoping for the best, thanks again for all the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Are you asking about Gunk Motor Flush ? I have used it for years but haven't lately. Subaru has a Flush at the parts counter at the dealer. I have never used one but I see people recommend using one during this installation. Have you had good luck using Gunk Motor Flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Berryman B12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Prob going to finish up most of the swap tonight. Oil Report will be sent to me tomorrow from Blackstone Labs. Hoping the subaru dealership has the copper washer i lost for the banjo bolt. Will be replacing both OCV's tonight. I can no longer find the thread i was going to use to remove these. Can anyone supply with me a link or some info? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Prob going to finish up most of the swap tonight. Oil Report will be sent to me tomorrow from Blackstone Labs. Hoping the subaru dealership has the copper washer i lost for the banjo bolt. Will be replacing both OCV's tonight. I can no longer find the thread i was going to use to remove these. Can anyone supply with me a link or some info? Thanks!! Driver side has one 10mm bolt holding it in. Remove bolt, then remove the ocv. It will need some wiggling, but not much. Passenger side, you will need to remove the three 12mm bolts holding the turbo coolant reservoir bracket. Move the bracket out of the way. Remove the 10mm holding the ocv in. Same as driver side. A little wiggling. Before installing your new ones, coat the orings in motor oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Here is my oil report, let me know what you guys think? http://i61.tinypic.com/2v0n1ft.jpg Car is all together and ready to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Jealous. My car is still 2-3 weeks out. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Jealous. My car is still 2-3 weeks out. from getting your oil report back? I sent mine via UPS Ground on monday night and received it Thursday evening.. Give them a call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 What oil are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 What oil are you using? All I know is it was 5w-30 Semi-Synthetic that I sent out. My last oil change was done at my friends shop because I had a blowout and they did a quick change for me before a trip. So I am unsure of the exact brand that they used. Up until that oil change, from August 2012 to December 2015 I have only used Wolf's Head SAE 5W-30 every 3,000 - 4,000 miles And it is what i put back in my car last night... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 from getting your oil report back? I sent mine via UPS Ground on monday night and received it Thursday evening.. Give them a call From getting the engine rebuilt. Lost compression / leakdown in #4. I guess I should have quoted the "car is together and ready to start" My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 From getting the engine rebuilt. Lost compression / leakdown in #4. I guess I should have quoted the "car is together and ready to start" Nice man, not much longer to go! I don't know anything about what to look for in these oil reports so I do not know if my report is even that good. It appears to be ok to me, and i was unable to find any trace of metals shavings anywhere, and everything appeared very clean, Hoping to start the car soon once i hear some more responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Engine Oil Analysis Report from Blackstone Laboratory: Also, check out bobistheoilguy.com Lots of info to be had there. I'm not privy about wolfshead. You may want to consider 5w40. I use rotella t6 diesel synthetic 5w40. Stay away from Mobil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Engine Oil Analysis Report from Blackstone Laboratory: Also, check out bobistheoilguy.com Lots of info to be had there. I'm not privy about wolfshead. You may want to consider 5w40. I use rotella t6 diesel synthetic 5w40. Stay away from Mobil 1 After watching that video it seems like my oil is fine in almost every category, copper was slightly high but nothing to be concerned of. I will consider using different oil, I have just always had Wolf's Head in my garage so its more of a convenience factor than anything. I am going to go start the car soon, I loaded the new map last night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Nice!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 So I just started the car....... High Idle around 1,700rpm Drove the car about 30ft in reverse out my garage, down my driveway and got the Code: P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed (Bank 1) Took the car around the block, Very Sluggish, Difficulty Getting Into First, AP read Boost Target at 16.3 PSI and i never even exceeded 3400 RPM. Cleared the code, seconds later came right back. Car is now parked. Any ideas? :confused: Debating whether or not to launch my car into the Delaware River:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Code has to do with the passenger side tgvs stuck open. First things first. Check and make sure that the actuator on the front side of the passenger side runners on the intake manifold is plugged in. Check the same for the sensor on the back side. Make sure the pins on the actuator and the sensor are not bent. Check to see if you have pinched any of the harness for the actuator and the sensor. Since you just did the turbo, I'm hoping its just something simple like that. Next check the sensor with the access port, it should be close to what the driver side shows, should show + - 1* compared to driver side. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 That's a TGV code. Did you do the TGV deletes? If not, is the connector plugged in properly? Was it damaged during the process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Code has to do with the passenger side tgvs stuck open. First things first. Check and make sure that the actuator on the front side of the passenger side runners on the intake manifold is plugged in. Check the same for the sensor on the back side. Make sure the pins on the actuator and the sensor are not bent. Check to see if you have pinched any of the harness for the actuator and the sensor. Since you just did the turbo, I'm hoping its just something simple like that. Next check the sensor with the access port, it should be close to what the driver side shows, should show + - 1* compared to driver side. Good luck! I had to run back to work but will check as soon as i am home. I am unsure of which one is bank 1. Im hoping its something simple as well. But would that being shut cause the issues i am having? I will use the AP to check the sensor as well, Thanks for the info!!! That's a TGV code. Did you do the TGV deletes? If not, is the connector plugged in properly? Was it damaged during the process? I did not, I have to check the connector not really sure what to be looking for yet. I dont believe i damaged anything but i could be wrong. Bank 1 is on the drivers side correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Bank 1 is passenger side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 It could be that the motors for the TGVs, now having been played with a bit, are now acting up -- they're not known for their longevity. You can do the TGV delete as seen in the Walkthroughs forum -- all you need is a die-grinder and a hefty volume compressor -- or you can buy TGV Deletes. I recommend these, for ~$200. I've personally handled a set, and the quality is nice. Run them through a parts washer a couple of times before install, add a coat of paint, and run with it. Be sure to get the codes tuned out on your AP - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 It could be that the motors for the TGVs, now having been played with a bit, are now acting up -- they're not known for their longevity. You can do the TGV delete as seen in the Walkthroughs forum -- all you need is a die-grinder and a hefty volume compressor -- or you can buy TGV Deletes. I recommend these, for ~$200. I've personally handled a set, and the quality is nice. Run them through a parts washer a couple of times before install, add a coat of paint, and run with it. Be sure to get the codes tuned out on your AP - Don't you think more than one would be acting up than? For $200 that is not bad at all, however i imagine the install is a PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Don't you think more than one would be acting up than? For $200 that is not bad at all, however i imagine the install is a PITA Not at all - Bleed the fuel pressure and take the whole manifold off - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex609 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Not at all - Bleed the fuel pressure and take the whole manifold off - Ok I will look into it. Would i need a new tune? You make it sound so easy, any write ups on this? Hopefully its just something disconnected or being pinched I just wanna drive my car lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Before deleting the tgvs, just check and make sure they're connected and no wires pinched. There are write-ups for the diy tgv delete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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