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RooTBeeR's Cheapo Slow Poke "Build" Thread


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Um, did the JMP get contaminated in the process?

I haven't touched it yet, but when I drain the oil, I'll check my drain plug magnet see if it still looks normal or not.

But I'm pretty sure the turbos fine.

 

 

If not...maybe jmp vf52 time? [emoji38]

So your saying it's the SB that failed? Sorry to hear man.

Yeah, most likely another cracked piston / ring land

"Build" Thread <--Link

(OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW)

Forever Slow

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I just read this and it's relevant if you decide to rebuild:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5398354&postcount=18

 

TL;DR: "If you suspect you might get the itch to go bigger, ... , then just get the damn forgies in there and be sure and use the tougher 2618 material while you're at it."

 

So "drop in" is actually drop in? Whenever I talk to Subaru owners outside of this forum, they insist I take the A or B pistons (BBBB in my case) and the sealed crate SB still in the plastic to a machine shop and have the cylinders bored to match the A or B "drop in" pistons. If they are drop in then I'll do just that, drop them in.

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Assuming the cracked ringland hasn't done any damage... I would just hone the cylinders, do drop in pistons and call it a day.

 

And get a JMP VF52 with that pretty 11 blade compressor :)

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

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Once you bore your not in the stock A/B sizes. Depending on the manufacturer you can go up three sizes depending on how much your sleeves need to be hogged out.

 

OK cool, that's what I was looking to hear. Didn't want to have a untouched SB still in plastic and then start machine shopping it canceling out the new SB completely when I already have a decent but blown SB that got me into this question.

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OK cool, that's what I was looking to hear. Didn't want to have a untouched SB still in plastic and then start machine shopping it canceling out the new SB completely when I already have a decent but blown SB that got me into this question.

 

A lot of people recommend a new SB and calling it a day, because it's hard to find a machine shop that does a decent job (it seems). If you have a trusted machine shop, might as well rebuild with that block (if you want forged).

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I have OutFront performance pretty close to me. They do a lot of closed deck blocks.

I know they have the big plates of aluminum they bolt up in place of the heads and torque to spec when machining.

"Build" Thread <--Link

(OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW)

Forever Slow

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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A lot of people recommend a new SB and calling it a day, because it's hard to find a machine shop that does a decent job (it seems). If you have a trusted machine shop, might as well rebuild with that block (if you want forged).

 

I got a BBBB crate and a ABAB blown. Went crate for simplicity and same shop fears but if I can just drop in B pistons I'll be set for my goal and be safe.

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I have OutFront performance pretty close to me. They do a lot of closed deck blocks.

I know they have the big plates of aluminum they bolt up in place of the heads and torque to spec when machining.

 

Outfront did my block when M Sprank rebuilt my engine. (shipped my car down to him)

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Outfront did my block too, via AQ motorsports.

 

AQ ran the numbers with me, and the (il-) logic of tearing down a new SB (to properly hone for the drop ins to have a long life ie 100k+ miles) versus rebuilding mine. Even with mine needing a new crank, rebuilding still came out ahead.

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